[Tofudebeest]

My HJ60 has ~320,000 kilometers on it. After 4000 miles, I was 5 quarts low on oil. It was topped off before I made a 600 mile round trip. Upon return, the underside of the vehicle was an oily mess and only the tip of the dip stick was wet.

It appears that my rear main seal is bad. Is it time for some hard questions?

I am having my mechanic do a compression test to see if this motor is worth putting 7-8 hours into for a stupid $50 rubber part, if my compression is decent, what else should be done while this seal is replaced?

I understand that 398 psi is ideal, 284 psi is the lower limit and 30 psi is the max differential between any two cylinders. ANY ADVICE FOR MY MECHANIC FOR DOING THIS COMPRESSION TEST? Really, what is the compression lower limit for a healthy 2H engine? 350? 340?

I know to have him check the oil pan gasket, side cover gasket, oil galley plug and the valve cover to be sure it isn't one of those and not the rear main seal. I also think the camshaft freeze plug needs to be checked too.

ASSUMING it is is the rear main seal, would this be an ideal time to upgrade to the H55F? I have the 4-speed and my 3rd gear synchro is worn out (at least that is what it is believed to be: If I am in third at a stop, I can't get it out of gear without really reving hard and fighting with the truck). Would fixing the 4-speed (now) be preferrable to the $1,800 H55F from cruiserparts?

ADVICE IN GENERAL?

[jus cruzin]

if you need the rear main replaced I would surgest getting a new clutch fitted at the same time (usually when the seal goes the clutch plates get oil soaked). on another note your problems may be that the engine is breathing extreemly heavily covering the underside with oil. Your mech should do these checks anyway and if he finds anything else along the way, get him to notify you before going further, this way you can make the decision.

good luck

[brownbear]

But why not clean your engine fully with some de-greaser and then drive it around to see what leaks. Don't just assume its the rear main seal.

How about an oil line leak? The alternator has oil lines, or the oil filter having a bad gasket, or a major leak at the base.

Clean the engine and then drive it around looking for the wet spot.

[brownbear]

thats good to hear.

try cleaning the engine really well and see if you can find the leak. hopefully it is a simple repair.


Does the engine run well? Start ok? then I would not worry with the compression test. If it was the rear main seal I would just change it out. With a clutch at the same time. I think you should do the H55f at this time.

And the 5th gear will help lower the rpms on the highway.

They are tough engines, but were designed for a steady rpm and constant power setting. That is why over reving can cause issues as well as lugging with too much foot into it.(really high egt).

[Rob Faucett]

Originally Posted by brownbear

thats good to hear.

try cleaning the engine really well and see if you can find the leak. hopefully it is a simple repair.


Does the engine run well? Start ok? then I would not worry with the compression test. If it was the rear main seal I would just change it out. With a clutch at the same time. I think you should do the H55f at this time.

And the 5th gear will help lower the rpms on the highway.

They are tough engines, but were designed for a steady rpm and constant power setting. That is why over reving can cause issues as well as lugging with too much foot into it.(really high egt).

Brownbear - How difficult/complicated is the above repair (I don't know anything)?

Thanks

[rick_d]

rob-

the rear main seal is a 4" diameter rubber seal ring which seals the back side of the crankshaft. With the flywheel and transmission stuffed through, its a pita to replace the rear main only.

...as for the truck, I'd advise same a brown bear and clean the complete undercarriage to view the actual leak. If the rear main is blown, your pulling the transmission out in any event.

the H55 conversion will mandate an alternative t-case, circa 7/1983 production and later. While an early t-case shell can be modified to fit the bearing that sits on the output of the transmission, the oil cup provision cannot easily be introduced. The cost effective way if you are not a machinist and do not own a mill is to buy a complete t-case from another party.

drivelines ($200-$300 to retube/shorten), and shifter levers for t-case and transmission should just be about it. Check your existing bellhousing for the "ear" modifications for the front bearing retainer of H55...

[crushers]

rick, seriously, once the tranny and clutch is removed the rear main seal is a 5 min job MAX...

[Tofudebeest]

where are you pulling the following quote:
"the H55 conversion will mandate an alternative t-case, circa 7/1983 production and later. While an early t-case shell can be modified to fit the bearing that sits on the output of the transmission, the oil cup provision cannot easily be introduced. The cost effective way if you are not a machinist and do not own a mill is to buy a complete t-case from another party.

drivelines ($200-$300 to retube/shorten), and shifter levers for t-case and transmission should just be about it. Check your existing bellhousing for the "ear" modifications for the front bearing retainer of H55..."

Three people have either IMed me or written this exact quote in threads.

[Island Moose]

I replaced the main seal on my BJ70, did the clutch at the same time. The oil pan gasket was also leaking, so check that first. It's a big job, you need a transmission lift or improvised floor jack, lots of time and a huge air gun to get the flywheel bolts off. I'm no mechanic, so it wasn't technically difficult, just very physical....the right tools are everything.

It wasn't a particularly expensive job, about $400 with a new clutch system, bearings, slave cylinder and rebuilt master. Got to know my transmission and transfer case intimately...might as well do the u-joints while you're under there.

Don't even consider doing it without a factory manual.

[Tofudebeest]

The oil pan gasket is a known leak, but in small quantities. I was going to replace it as well. I am having trouble locating a FSM for an HJ60, even out of Australia. I can't seem to find what I am looking for on the Birfield.com link either. I was told to avoid the Gregory and Max Ellery manuals.

[Tofudebeest]

Is $48 too much for a rear main seal for my 2H? This is what Marv gets for them. I have not found them elsewhere yet, but have only looked for it from James (cruiserparts.net).

Anyone else state-side have them?

[hks3sgte]

Is that OEM?

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by MyHJ60Sheila

Is $48 too much for a rear main seal for my 2H? This is what Marv gets for them. I have not found them elsewhere yet, but have only looked for it from James (cruiserparts.net).

Anyone else state-side have them?

did you try Toyota?

Someone here might be able to give you the part number. Then you just ask for the part number.

Also try a forklift company maybe.....

[sandcruiser]

old thread, but some $ information:

a 2F seal from Toyota is around $50, so around $50 for a 2H rear main seal sounds pretty fair.