3B running hot

[eleblanc]

Hi,

I say running hot, when it fact i have nothing to compare it with. Anyhow i drove 350miles yesterday, and while cruising at about 65mph, temp needle would get pretty close the to first right white line of the original gauge, that doesn't tell much in degree, but that is all i have. I felt like it doesn't go that high usually. Truck stayed 7 years in my garage and who knows how long the last coolant change was done before i got the cruiser in my garage in 2000. So i'll flush it and change it. Now i didn't know there was coolant for diesel, anyhow that is what i took, motormaster for diesel coolant.

Any advice for this change on a 3B, i never done this.

Also anyone with a 3B and original temp gauge, input on how far to the right you ever got your temp would be great!

Also i think that running stock R&P @ 4.11 with 34" tires in 5th gear probably cause a greater load in the engine while the fan rpm being lower may have a impact, does this make sens? I try running in 4th and did not notice any drop in temp. Only sitcking the truck in the rear of a 45' trailer would help drop the temp.

I know has long has my 3B doesn't over heat it should last long, that is why i'm a bit worried.

[cruiser_guy]

When you change the coolant it can be a pain to get all the air out. Park the truck pointing uphill for the first few times and don't forget to run the heaters to get the air out of them too.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

When you change the coolant it can be a pain to get all the air out. Park the truck pointing uphill for the first few times and don't forget to run the heaters to get the air out of them too.

you mean pull the knob so the liquid can go throught the hose

[jus cruzin]

overheating diesel? shouldn't ne an issue with coolant I have ran straight water for over 4 years in up to 45deg celc wheather. check your thermostat is opening (remove and place in a pot of water and heat up use a thermometer to test temp) if it doesn't open in the correct range replace. Also I suggest to remove the radiator and get it cleaned out properly (may have blocked tubes which cant always be cleaned by a flush). my vote is for the thermostat if the truck hasn't been used for a while.

good luck

keep us posted

mat

[Diescipel]

I found my engine will run hotter when I have a load (hill, crap in back etc.) now that I have 33s. I also find that even if I can hold a speed on a hill in a higher gear, if I down shift and get the rpms up, the engine seems to breath easier and gets the heat out. Somebody with more technical expertise can explain this--it was in a thread a while back and I can't remember.

2x on a flush and might as well just do a brand new t-stat while you're in there--if your cooling system is such an unknown and as you know heat can kill 3B heads, I would go for changing out the whole kit and kaboodle.

Do you have your rad curtain up? ;-)

B

[toynut]

i just changed all of my heater hoses , flushed my rad and changed the fluid , i noticed the tempature range change it takes longer to warm up ( probably working better now ) . i plan on doing the t stat next .

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by Diescipel

Do you have your rad curtain up? ;-)

B

For one of the few who still has it, yes that is the first thing i check. yesterday i checked coolant density at a local 4x4 shop with a friend and density was -45 deg C? and said it was fine, color was a nice green.

Maybe a new t-stats would be a good idea, I guess changing it requires a full drain? i'm not sure where it is located.

I still think the problem is mostly due to lower rpm of my engine when running in 5th gear.

What is the consensus, stop when the temp needle reach the first white line of the gauge?

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

you mean pull the knob so the liquid can go throught the host

Yes!

[Diescipel]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

Maybe a new t-stats would be a good idea, I guess changing it requires a full drain? i'm not sure where it is located.

I still think the problem is mostly due to lower rpm of my engine when running in 5th gear.

What is the consensus, stop when the temp needle reach the first white line of the gauge?

I had good coolant but wanted to put in an 82 degree t-stat. It sits in a housing high on the engine/just off the front of the head, so I got a big pan, opened up the housing, let what wanted to drain go into the pan, switched t-stats, hosed off engine, filled and burped coolant. Quick.

But I bet your situation is just normal with the big tires.

When mine creeps up there like I said I just downshift, slow down, and not try to push a big gear and it cools down fine. In one day I climbed from the floor of Death Valley to Monitor Pass (-200 ft to 8300 ft elevation) and yes it would get hot and yes I spent a good deal of the day in 3rd gear, but it did just fine.

B

[Indian]

make sure you have a good rad cap,if you are not building enough presure in the whole system it will not circulate proper and cool,
just my 2cents I went through the same crap with my 3B just to find out the cap was leaking
cheers

[cody c]

i had heating problems in mine, partially due to bad thermostat and old coolant. the stock gauge doesnt do that good of a job at telling you how hot your engine is compared to a pyrometer. the last thing you want to do is overheat the motor and drop a precup or crack the head gasket.

I did get a cracked head gasket from overheating, the coolant got sucked into cylinder 2, had hardly any compression and lots of smoke at highway speeds. found a low KM 3B for a little more than the price of a rebuild kit. Learned alot about the 3B but it was a ton of work.

Do the maintenance and your cruiser will last. If not they get expensive, i learned this the hard way. Thermostats and coolant changes are cheap in comparison. And although a little pricey, a pyrometer is worth the piece of mind.

Cheers!

[eleblanc]

I have a pyro installed but it is not working properly, autometer is sending me a new thermo. I'm going to wait until the pyro is fonctionning normaly before i started changing t stats. I'll post back what the pyro tells me.

[David*BJ70]

Rien de plus simple !

Je te recommande en effet de changer de T-stat. (90916-03104) et le joint (16341-56021) pour moins de 40$. Je crois que c'est un 88C.

En enlevant ton vieux t-stat il te sera plus facile de flusher - rincer le système à "grande eau". Pour le remplir, démanche une hose de chauffage... la plus haute en hauteur sur le fire wall du compartiment moteur. Cela va aider à faire sortir l'air.

Après, arrange toi pour faire quelques courte distance pour que le t-stat ouvre et puis se referme en t'assurant que le bidon de trop plein ai suffisamment d'anti-gel.

Il est possible que la première fois... le t-stat ouvre à une température plus élevée.

Je te recommande aussi de t'installer un gage mécanique pour la température. Il peut être placé à la place du sensor du devant sur le "coude". Celui en avant est pour le sensor à température alors que celui en arrière est le "glow sensor" pour le système de glow plug.

[lshobie]

3B's don't run hot unless they arent getting enough air, or coolant flow.

Check your rad to make sure the fins are clean - wash it out from the inside out.

Replace your thermostat and flush system.

Check your rad cap.

Make sure your waterpump is working well, and make sure your clutch fan is in good working order - maybe replace it if it is original.

34 inch tires in 5th gear shouldnt bring temps up that high in this part of canada.

Also, if your truck gets really hot and you want to cool it down, turn the heater on full blast - rear too - open the windows and floor vents and let it cool down at idle.

You coming to the meeting monday night? I know it is far for you.

We will be discussing an offorad trip this time.

[eleblanc]

Would anyone have the toyota part number for the 82 deg C t-stats for a 3B?

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by lshobie

3B's don't run hot unless they arent getting enough air, or coolant flow.

34 inch tires in 5th gear shouldnt bring temps up that high in this part of canada.

I don't agree. With stock gears and 33's 5th would be lugging at lower rpm. Lugging produces heat doesn't matter if it's in 5th or 2nd. Basically at sea level with a stock truck if you lug the motor it will get hot. I agree it needs more air

[Island Moose]

If your temp needle is getting close to the white line on the right side of the gauge...shut down man, that's WAY too hot. You need to get it serviced, maybe a water pump, maybe a failed thermostat...who knows...but that's hot!

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by Island Moose

If your temp needle is getting close to the white line on the right side of the gauge...shut down man, that's WAY too hot. You need to get it serviced, maybe a water pump, maybe a failed thermostat...who knows...but that's hot!

They are two white line, the one completely on the right "H" and there is a middle one about 3/4 of the way to "H", i was speaking about that 3/4, i never reach it but pretty close.

Today i did a 2 hours drive, with real bad head wind and i never reach vertical, or 1/2 point.

[jus cruzin]

the head wind other than being a hinderance would have contributed to the engine staying cool.

my 78 bj40 2B has just started to heat up more than usual, replaced the thermostat today, still no good........lower radiator hose is cool while the top hose is hot........water pump.........damn

[omarle]

Some coolant do have expiry date.... How about your l/oil?? Fan??

[eleblanc]

Yesterday i installed a autometer water gage, at the same time i replace the poor viair gauge with a autometer air pressure. BTW my piro still doesn't work.

I was planning to install the mecanical sensor where you see the plug. Anyone has good advice to get that (mostlikely steel) plug out of that aluminium housing without messing the threads, or without removing that housing from the block.

[eleblanc]

Also, since i started this thread i cleaned the rad inside out. Since then i drove 2 hours srtaight and the temperature gauge never crossed vertical, much cooler then my last long drive. But this time weather was cold, 10-15 deg C cooler then the drive before.

Once i get that water gauge working i'll report back how high it goes.

[David*BJ70]

Cell picture... hope that help (I use a plastic cover on the metal sensor)

Be carefull when removing the original sensor.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by David*BJ70

Cell picture... hope that help (I use a plastic cover on the metal sensor)

Be carefull when removing the original sensor.

David,

I kept the original sensor in and plug the new on the plug you seein the picture, i guess it was a drain.

Anyhow i finally got the square plug out and sensor installed. I since then drove about 5 minute and temp went to 180 deg F and stayed about there.

[ctuna74]

I live in florida and have a chance to get an 85bj60lg with the 3b diesel it has 160,000k on it. my question is would fiorida be to hot for this cruiser? and if you remove the thermostat and drive it would that hurt the engine? thanks charlie

[eleblanc]

ctuna74,

I don't think florida is too hot, and anyother place on this earth. Since the temp gage in the cluster doesnt have number i was wondering and worrying high the temp really went. Anyhow since i started this thread i finally got the mecanical temp gauge installed. Yesterday outside temp was 80 deg F the highest since the gauge installed, on highway at 60 mph temp was about 195 steady.

If the cooling system is good, coolant and t-stats you won't have issue.

[ctuna74]

Thanks for the advice. Does the t-stat have to be installed? This is my first diesel.
Charlie