Pyrometer issue

[eleblanc]

Idle the needle is steady, has soon has i raise the rpm it start to freak out and when the rpm gets higher it goes vertical down and stays there.

check this video, speak for itself.
http://www.ericleblanc.com/files/eri.../Pyrometer.wmv

I tough the ground was bad but the light in the gage use the same screw for the ground and the light is ok.

Interferance?

[cody c]

something is fked, either your wiring or the factorys. double or triple check your end, and then call the manufacturer.

what brand is it?

[eleblanc]

Autometer

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by cody c

something is fked, either your wiring or the factorys. double or triple check your end, and then call the manufacturer.

X2

I'd check your wiring carefully first.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

X2

I'd check your wiring carefully first.

I did that again and it looks fine to me. And if the wiring wouldn't be ok, i thinkg i wouldn't be getting any reading at idle but i am.

My guess is there is some kind of interferance, maybe caused by my converter.

[eleblanc]

I must add that the gauge does work fine, i went for a ride yesterday and it went up to 700 deg F. But has soon has i starte to rev the needle goes balistic.

[SabreTooth]

Please see following thread with similar sounding issue and my comments within.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/150018-12-24v-converter-question.html

Search is your friend...

[eleblanc]

Thanks, that has giving me things to check. But i can rule out the converter has i am running a 40 Amp ICT.

I also notice that my needle start to do crazy thing only past 250 deg F.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

I also notice that my needle start to do crazy thing only past 250 deg F.

it does it even at lower temp

I've done a few test, here are the test and results

- I hooked the gauge directly to my Mitsu Montero and it worked perfectly!

- I disconnected everything out of my converter and hooked only the pyro gauge.....same problem
- I even tried with a other converter...same thing.

Now obviously there is something incompatible here, unless you guys have other suggestion to test. I'll wait til autometer support answers me.

[Zekester]

Mine did the same thing when I installed it, but...the needle deflects to the beat of the music on my CD player : )

I only have a 20 amp converter now, waiting for the second one to come in. I'm going to use one for the gauges only, the second for stereo and other 12V loads. Will post my results...

[cruiser_guy]

You're running the pyro through the 24-12v convertor? Why not just run a 24v pyrometer? Isspro makes them.
I could see issues with different grounds between the convertor and the truck (remember the probe is on the engine so it sees that as ground too).

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by Mszekely

Mine did the same thing when I installed it, but...the needle deflects to the beat of the music on my CD player : )

I only have a 20 amp converter now, waiting for the second one to come in. I'm going to use one for the gauges only, the second for stereo and other 12V loads. Will post my results...

did you talk to autometer about this problem? If so, what did they say?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Why not just run a 24v pyrometer?

Because the last this i was expecting is to have problems running a pyrometer throught a converter. When autometer reply to me i will see if they have a 24V.

[cody c]

i wonder if you have your converter set up wrong some how.

kind of like a floating neutral on a ac system. im not very familiar with converters but maybe if there is a link between the negative terminals of the 24v source and 12v output side to ground.

Anyone with a little more experience with converters know what i am saying?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cody c

i wonder if you have your converter set up wrong some how.

kind of like a floating neutral on a ac system. im not very familiar with converters but maybe if there is a link between the negative terminals of the 24v source and 12v output side to ground.

Anyone with a little more experience with converters know what i am saying?

Well there is 4 plug on the converter, 24V in obviously the 24V + is connected there, the 12V + output and 2 grounds.

Like i said i tried a other 16 amp converter here and i had the same thing.

[cody c]

do you have the grounds connected on both sides? And are you supposed to? I think there might be a grounding problem somewhere in this setup.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cody c

do you have the grounds connected on both sides? And are you supposed to? I think there might be a grounding problem somewhere in this setup.

On the converter there is two ground, each are ground to the body of the truck. The difference with my older converter is that the first one had only 3 connector so one ground only. The new one has 2.

[Tapage]

why not try to grond one to the body and other to the chasis/engine :?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by Tapage

why not try to grond one to the body and other to the chasis/engine :?

I tried that with no luck, autometer is sending me a new probe/thermocouple, even with a outside source of 12V they think the probe is bad. I'm going to re-test with a outside 12V source (my other truck) and verify again that it does work perfectly.

[SabreTooth]

I'd be interested in results when checking the resistance of each of the 2 probe (thermocouple) wires to its sheath out of the box. There should not be continuity to the sheath.

With the other related post, I made the presumption that the thermocouple element should be isolated from the sheath (normal for thermocouples), and when it was measured that there was continuity to the sheath, that this was the reason for the odd pyro' behaviour for the other vehicle owner.

If, after installing carefully, you get continuity between sensor wires and sheath, I'll bet you will observe the same issue as before the install. It doesn't take much of a tight bend or crimp to cause an internal short to sheath. Please consider being careful and avoiding tight bends and / or excessive crimping.

Thanks in advance for the results. I'm interested whether my previous remote advice previously was on the money or not.

[eleblanc]

I will do that when i receive it.

[eleblanc]

I'm not sure what you mean by sheath (outside of the probe?), but i've check continuity, form the exhaust pipe to both wires of the thermocouple and i had continuity on both. Un fortunatly i didn't check out of the box and only once installed. But i was very carefull, there is a sleeve the probe goes in and it is fit. But i f*** the probe again, i don't see how it could stay non conductive to the motor with all that vibration from the motor even if i manage to put it in without damaging it.

Anyhow i still have the problem even after changing the probe.

[cody c]

i still think the problem has to do with the converter, sorry if i sound like a broken record. Could you try and connect the pyrometer to one of the 12 volt batteries (specifically the battery that is directly connected to ground) temporarily to see if anything changes.

Good Luck.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cody c

i still think the problem has to do with the converter, sorry if i sound like a broken record. Could you try and connect the pyrometer to one of the 12 volt batteries (specifically the battery that is directly connected to ground) temporarily to see if anything changes.

Good Luck.

Sure will do tomorrow

[NStimac]

I have had a similar problem with my 70 and it turned out to be a loose contact within my fuse block that I wired up for 12 volt. Just an Idea...

Hope this Helps
-Noah

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by cody c

i still think the problem has to do with the converter, sorry if i sound like a broken record. Could you try and connect the pyrometer to one of the 12 volt batteries (specifically the battery that is directly connected to ground) temporarily to see if anything changes.

Good Luck.

Gauge ground to the body and 12V from the first battery and i was having the same problem.....