1HD-T and biodiesel - anyone using it?

[Martin White]

I have a stock 1HD-T with no issues, and am looking for information from those of you who have actually run biodiesel in your 1HD-T. There is conflicting information all over the place about what formulations you can run without changing seals and so on. I have read in several places that up to B20 can be run with no issues, but others say go no higher than B5, and some even say B1.

So to my question. I'm not so interested in theory as to actual experience. Has anyone run B20 without mods and without troubles? If not B20 then what formulation?

[roscoFJ73]

Ive run quite a few tanks of B2O through the 1HZ(same seals) and no problems.
In fact I dont notiice any difference ,I just buy it because its 5 cents a litre cheaper
5 cents x 180 ltr = $9.00

[HZJ60 Guy]

Ive run B99 in my 2001 TDI jetta many many times. Ive run B99 in my 1985 2L as well. No problems anywhere. I will run it in my 1HZ when I get her back too. Start with B20 and see what you think. As I understand it if you run at least B20 you get all the lubricity qualities and not any of the power loss issues.

[wussyPup]

I use B5 from Columbia Fuels cardlock. I would try upto B20 if it were available. I still add a fuel treatment (Hawes).

[osogordito]

I have run B99 in my 3b now for a year without any troubles.

[Rig of Mortis]

I run B20 through my 3B without any issues to date, I usually run Stanadyne fuel treatment as well.

Here's a good article to read.

[HZJ60 Guy]

I use Stanadyne and Amsoil diesel fuel treatments.

[Lantec]

Originally Posted by Rig of Mortis

I run B20 through my 3B without any issues to date, I usually run Stanadyne fuel treatment as well.

Here's a good article to read.

Aren't the lubricants basically just biodiesel anyways?

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by Martin White

I have read in several places that up to B20 can be run with no issues, but others say go no higher than B5, and some even say B1.

Hi Martin. You hearing anything of a bio-diesel pump showing up in Abbotsford?

I've e-mailed these guys as they would be the most likely candidates. http://www.cascadiabiofuels.com/products.htm

gb

[Martin White]

Nothing currently, but there are rumours it may become available here fairly soon. I'm not sure who the retailers would be but I think you have the source right. It would be nice to see it out here.

[dieselcruiserhead]

you should have no trouble what so ever.. I have never heard of anyone having to change "seals" just acouple people who have had to change some sections of their rubber fuel line in older models by certain manufacturers. I would not worry about it..

I have run a lot of biodiesel in US, European, and Japanese manufacturers and had no issues what so ever...

[83bj60]

Originally Posted by osogordito

I have run B99 in my 3b now for a year without any troubles.

Good to know, but the technology in the 3B is very different of that in the 1HD-T: the 3B has an inline piston injection pump instead of a rotary pump (lubricated by engine oil, not fuel), indirect injection instead of direct (lower quality fuel can cause more deposits on direct injected engines), different compression ratio as well as different injectors.

osogordito as for your setup, have you noticed any difference in soot in the oil? Is the engine any quieter or is it louder? What is the base oil used in your biodiesel? What engine oil do you use, do you use any extra detergent additive?

[osogordito]

I have not noticed a change in soot, but i have not done all of the oil changes. I bought the truck in Canada and drove down to Portland. On the way down i filled up with b20 in Bellingham and noticed that the engine ran much more quiet as the bd worked its way in to the system.

I get my fuel from Sequential Biofuels, there are a few pumps around Portland. I have not inquired about what oil stock they use but this is there website. http://www.sqbiofuels.com/

As far as oil i use 0w40 and i have not used any additives. I have changed my fuel filter once after a few tankfuls and will probably do it again this month. I have not as yet changed the fuel lines but i am keeping my eye on them and won't wait much longer

[Martin White]

A friend of mine took his truck to ATEB for some other work - they suggested that the stock fuel lines in an HDJ81 are very thick and would likely survive up to B40 for quite some time before problems arose, and that you would have some warning before changes needed to be made. They also suggested the stock pump would be fine with B40. Just passing along the info. I think once bio gets out here I'll start with B5, and work my way up to B40.

[83bj60]

Originally Posted by Martin White

A friend of mine took his truck to ATEB for some other work - they suggested that the stock fuel lines in an HDJ81 are very thick and would likely survive up to B40 for quite some time before problems arose, and that you would have some warning before changes needed to be made. They also suggested the stock pump would be fine with B40. Just passing along the info. I think once bio gets out here I'll start with B5, and work my way up to B40.

Great Info, Martin! Did you get to learn what is the composition of the seals used in the injection pump? Could it survive pure biodiesel made from recycled frying oil? That's the question!

Also, FYI, I've been checking my fuel consumption this winter, doing mostly 45 minute trips at 90kph average (from town to town at highway speeds, cold starts, through the laurentian hills, ending with some city driving) and I am averaging around 12L/100. Is goes up drastically if I maintain 110-120 while on the highway and when the weather gets really cold (below -20C), up to 14 and more L/100. How has your fuel consumption been this winter?

Chris

[Martin White]

Chris, I was unable to confirm with certainty what kind of seals are in the pump of my truck but was told it's not a big deal and that they shouldn't degrade quickly on B40. I didn't ask about B100, however. I don't think rebuilding with the correct (VITON I believe) seals is a big deal and the pump will have to be rebuilt at some point anyhow. There is some debate about additional filter changes when you first go to bio.

As for fuel consumption, I recently completed a 700 km trip to Osoyoos and back in which I achieved my best ever fuel economy of approx. 11.1 l / 100 km. However, that was driving less than 100 kph (actual) and trying to keep the engine at partial boost (it seems to like that). But it was still fairly cold (about 3-8 C for most of the trip) and that included several hours of idling near Hope going past a mud slide. So I could have done better than what I got this trip.

IF I drive numerous very short trips in cold weather I have seen as high as 18.6 l / 100 km. I would say that you are getting exactly the economy you should be based on your driving conditions. Based on what I've seen I think (but have not yet been able to actually get) as low as around 10.5 l / 100 km under ideal conditions (warm weather, flat and speeds less than 100 kph "ish" on a long highway drive). My Jan-Mar fuel consumption avg right now is at 14.36 l / 100 km but I do much more short trip driving than you have. I notice also that if I travel faster, consumption goes up just like what you've seen.

Fuel consumption drops noticeably in summer as well. I have seen that diesels are much more sensitive to conditions than gas engines but still get you better economy than a gas engine most of the time.

[Martin White]

I should have added that up to B40 there is a slight % reduction in fuel economy and that at B100 it's around 5%. I've heard at B20 it's negligible. I'm guessing with B40 it would be close to half the 5% number so still pretty negligible. B100 here is close to 10 cents per litre less than regular diesel so apart from the environmental benefits it makes sense to switch.

[T.Stanford]

Hi Martin, this is my first post to the mud forums so hello you all. In answer to you I’ve been running B20 for about six months in my 90 Hdj81vx and for about four months in my 85 Bj60 .Thus far the only issue has been a new fuel filter at about the three month mark(in the Hdj81) Same power, cold starting same as dino but with a more pleasant exhaust smell. Recently drove the 81vx to the southern tip of the Baja, for good measure brought emergency jerry cans of biodiesel (no smell in the truck) . On a more general note I’ve had the 81vx for a year (GREAT TRUCK) and my bj60 for about eight years(also a beauty).
I live on the Gulf islands so we’re practically neigbours,I also got caught up in the mudslide detour last weekend while heading to Kelowna to do a little end of season skiing.
Cheers, Tony Stanford

[wussyPup]

Hi Tony,

Welcome to MUD (the MUD salute)

You can't tease us about a trip to Baja with your HDJ81 and not show us pictures. We need pictures!

Also, there's a new Cruiser Club on the Big Island - http://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-vancouver-island-cruisers/ - give us a shout when you're next over.

-Steve

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by Martin White

Fuel consumption drops noticeably in summer as well. I have seen that diesels are much more sensitive to conditions than gas engines but still get you better economy than a gas engine most of the time.

Hello Martin...

Seeing as the diesel engine is considerably more efficient by design, still a win-win at the end of the day.

g(still waiting impatiently for B-20 to show at pump in Abbotsford)b

[hectorladron]

hey guys, good to hear that there is no problems with bio, im thinking about switching, but was a bit skeptical about things to change......good thing i found this. im in victoria and the highest ive seen is 5%, i think ill give it a shot.

[Martin White]

Just keep a close eye on your fuel filter - bio is slightly corrosive and can loosen up sludge in the tank and or lines thus plugging the fuel filter - your system may be fairly clean and of no concern or you could have some sludge in there you don't know about.

[Lantec]

Originally Posted by Martin White

Just keep a close eye on your fuel filter - bio is slightly corrosive and can loosen up sludge in the tank and or lines thus plugging the fuel filter - your system may be fairly clean and of no concern or you could have some sludge in there you don't know about.

Do you have to prime the engine again after you change your fuel filter?

Or is it just a simple swap to a new filter when it needs to be changed?

[T.Stanford]

Hello Wussypup, I am not too savy about these computer issues(posting photos) I guess I'me going to have to get my daughter to show me how to do this! Thanks for the greetings and yes we should stay in touch, I do get to town (Sidney/Victoria) occasionally and it would be cool to see some cruiserheads and their rigs. Cheers, Tony

[dogboy2]

for what it's worth, there's some great info here:

http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/f...s/default.shtm

check out "Use of Biodiesel Blends Above B20" in the Engine Manufacturers section

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

[Lantec]

Originally Posted by dogboy2

for what it's worth, there's some great info here:

http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/f...s/default.shtm

check out "Use of Biodiesel Blends Above B20" in the Engine Manufacturers section

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

cool I should be good up to B20