1HZ oil pressure video

[lshobie]

Hi Guys,

Some people have asked about diesel oil pressure, so I installed a mechanical guage on my 1HZ and video taped it on my cell phone, quality is ok but you can see the operating pressures.

The engine has 4200 hours on it, my odometer is broken. At idle when warm it is steady at 27 pounds pressure, when at highway speeds it is at about 70-80 pounds.

Here is the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3UgaGu5MxQ

Regards,

[Eric Winkworth]

is oil pressure a tell tail sign of the life left in a motor? or just in the oil pump?

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth

is oil pressure a tell tail sign of the life left in a motor? or just in the oil pump?

Both ,but its how it does it is the difference.

Very high oil pressure when cold that drops away to nothing 5-10 mins later can be a sign of worn main bearings.

A slow gradual loss of pressure can be the pump or the bearings but if it can hold pressure it doesn't have to be high for the engine to be safe.

My old 3F was beginning to get the former symptom.

My 1HZ was touching 80 after the rebuild I think Louis' engine reached 60 which is very respectable

[lshobie]

I just took note this morning when driving to work, the pressure gauge was up to 80lbs at highway speed. I didn't check it out when I started it this morning though - it was about minus 12 or so, but i think it is usually up around 40 or more when it is cold like that at idle.

That is not a rebuilt engine either - just looked after well.

[Ron R]

Originally Posted by lshobie

I just took note this morning when driving to work, the pressure gauge was up to 80lbs at highway speed. I didn't check it out when I started it this morning though - it was about minus 12 or so, but i think it is usually up around 40 or more when it is cold like that at idle.

That is not a rebuilt engine either - just looked after well.

Must be well looked after, because the engine repair manual says:
At idle RPm: 29 kPa = 0.3 kg/cm2 = 4.2 psi = 0.29 bar
at 3000 RPM or more: 245 kPa = 2.5 kg/cm2 = 35.5 psi = 2.45 bar

as minimum pressure for warm engine.

As a note: connecting a mechanical gauge to find the real pressure is *the* way to go.
Don't believe the in dash-gauge. During a trip some years ago I saw the pressure slowly degrade over three days. Where the normal indication was about three quarters of full scale it now showed hardly 1/4. Checked the oil filter, no shavings or whatever.
Got really worried and then found out it was the sender.
Put in a new sender, but never got the same (high) indication. Got used to it. AFAIK the pressure is fine.

[lshobie]

Yes, has been well looked after, I recently changed the conrod bearings and they looked very good - I just did it for the heck of it.

[Ron R]

Parts must be cheap then!!
I really would't do that just for fun. []

[lshobie]

Conrod bearings cost about 80 canadian, and my labour at 2 hours - very easy to do.

[83bj60]

Originally Posted by lshobie

Hi Guys,

Some people have asked about diesel oil pressure, so I installed a mechanical guage on my 1HZ and video taped it on my cell phone, quality is ok but you can see the operating pressures.

The engine has 4200 hours on it, my odometer is broken. At idle when warm it is steady at 27 pounds pressure, when at highway speeds it is at about 70-80 pounds.

Here is the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3UgaGu5MxQ

Regards,

How do I make it work if I'm on dial-up? It stutters and when I reload, it wants to download again, and I can't find a way to save it so I can view it off-line.

Dang&^#$&$%##& the connection just went down :(

OK, got it to work. I sure wish I could simply download it so that I could view it full screen instead of in a small 2 inch window.

[Ron R]

Originally Posted by lshobie

Conrod bearings cost about 80 canadian, and my labour at 2 hours - very easy to do.

80 CND???????????? for all of them????????? You must be kidding!!!!
Never needed them but I guess that's what I have to pay a piece. times 6 is 480 CND = 300 euros.
Labor, I doubt they would charge me only two hours, but at approx 70 euro/hr that's 140 euro's is 224CND.

So at least 440 euro's or 600 CND. That's more than a weeks wage....

[83bj60]

Originally Posted by Ron R

80 CND???????????? for all of them????????? You must be kidding!!!!
Never needed them but I guess that's what I have to pay a piece. times 6 is 480 CND = 300 euros.
Labor, I doubt they would charge me only two hours, but at approx 70 euro/hr that's 140 euro's is 224CND.

So at least 440 euro's or 600 CND. That's more than a weeks wage....

The whole set of ACL bearings, reputed to be tougher than the Toyotas, can be had for as little as US$12 in Minnesota from Hastings, who distributes ACL bearings in the US. I know that from another member here who was shocked how expensive our Cannuck supplied bearings were.

As usual, price is not in any way related to quality, but to marketing deception and the number of people involved between the manufacturer and the consumer.

I just wish that member had posted an address where we could have ordered these bearings.

Chris

OK, I found the name of the member, 'danamotors' and don't know if he's still around. The post was from april 13th, 2004, and I can't tell you where he posted, possibly not on MUD, perhaps on 80's cool group.

The Hastings distributor was in Michigan, the bearings were bought approximateley 16 months before that post.

Figuring inflation, it would be surprising if the bearings had more than doubled in price between 2002 and 2007.

Now could the real 'danamotors' make himself known and join the conversation?

[Ron R]

Maybe we should take this to new thread, but talking about parts costs.
I know they can differ tremendously.
Even here within, say 30 km's around. For commonly availbe parts it's even worse, looking at the dealer's.
I needed 5 sets of wheelbearings in preparing the rig for my trip to Kazakhstan last year. Went to the dealer. Asked the price and my jaw almost fell on the floor.
So I went to a shop specialised in bearings and bought the same bearings for less then half the price and maybe a better quality.
At the moment I'm in need for replacement bearings for the transfer. I ordered them in Ozi. Bought THREE bearings and some small parts, paying 110 Euro's incl shipment. That's less than 10 euro's more than I had to pay here for just ONE bearing on it's own.

So every now and then it's good to look around before buying unless you need the parts instantly.

[70sguy]

Originally Posted by 83bj60

The whole set of ACL bearings, reputed to be tougher than the Toyotas, can be had for as little as US$12 in Minnesota from Hastings, who distributes ACL bearings in the US.

OK, I'm calling BS. We (G&S) stock ACL con rod bearings for 1HD-T/1HZ engines. We have bought ACL bearings through Hastings and now buy direct from ACL. They cost a whole pile more than $12 per set. Perhaps the low price was because 5 years ago the USD was at nearly 1.6 to the to the Canadian dollar, and worth even more yet to the dollar in AUS where ACL bearings come from. Factor in inflation and other factors over the 5 years I can see em going up.. but $12 usd, I still don't buy it. If you call ACL today, their Jobber price is just under $50 CAD for 1HD-T/1HZ bearings. Factor in shipping from the Eastern US warehouse, and if you have to ship them across border, add some rubber stamp fees, duty etc.

Sheldon

[83bj60]

Originally Posted by Ron R

Maybe we should take this to new thread, but talking about parts costs.
I know they can differ tremendously.
Even here within, say 30 km's around. For commonly availbe parts it's even worse, looking at the dealer's.
I needed 5 sets of wheelbearings in preparing the rig for my trip to Kazakhstan last year. Went to the dealer. Asked the price and my jaw almost fell on the floor.
So I went to a shop specialised in bearings and bought the same bearings for less then half the price and maybe a better quality.
At the moment I'm in need for replacement bearings for the transfer. I ordered them in Ozi. Bought THREE bearings and some small parts, paying 110 Euro's incl shipment. That's less than 10 euro's more than I had to pay here for just ONE bearing on it's own.

So every now and then it's good to look around before buying unless you need the parts instantly.

I can empathize with you about the outrageous markups most dealers and parts stores apply to these things. It's always best to find suppliers with decent prices before the parts are needed, and stock up when a deal is available. I've got 16 dual element OEM filters for my HDJ81 for $160 from a Toyota dealer in Maine, four times cheaper than the dealer in Canada.

I'm still looking for the Hastings bearings at this time. I can't understand why the same set of bearings should cost 4 times more in Canada than in the US. Twice, I can see that, but four times, it's simply unacceptable.

[Ron R]

Originally Posted by 70sguy

OK, I'm calling BS. We (G&S) stock ACL con rod bearings for 1HD-T/1HZ engines. We have bought ACL bearings through Hastings and now buy direct from ACL. They cost a whole pile more than $12 per set. Perhaps the low price was because 5 years ago the USD was at nearly 1.6 to the to the Candadian dollar, and worth even more yet to the dollar in AUS where ACL bearings come from. Factor in inflation and other factors over the 5 years. If you call ACL today, their Jobber price is just under $50 CAD for 1HD-T/1HZ bearings. Factor in shipping from the Eastern US warehouse, and if you have to ship them across border, add some rubber stamp fees, duty etc.

Sheldon

I don't know or I'm understanding this correctly, but I think you're still talking about a 'set' and that's 6 bearings or one pair?

If it's a set of 6 it's still extremely cheap in my opinion.

[70sguy]

A set of ACL Con rod bearings for 1HD-T/1HZ consists of 12 separate halves to do all 6 of the big end con rods. So for $80cad you are set, and we include a strip of plastigauge, ya not a big bonus but it saves you having to go out and buy it.

[Tapage]

I take this image of my gauges in a long run ( this one after 4 hours running ) around 2400 rpm .. in my 2H -T

[roscoFJ73]

I like the Lev O Gage Probably works better than a inclinometer

[tmarx]

This thread has got me wondering.I only have the OEM gauge so please bare with me.When the vehicle has reached normal operating temps the gauges indicates presure halfway up the scale @ idling and rising to about three quater(max) when driving .After reading this thread I have noticed that when cold @ idling the gauge indicates slightly above half on the scale but still rises to about the same level when driving or maybe a little less than three quarter on the scale.When normal operating temps are reached she goes back to normal.Is this due to the cold oil not having reached its optimum viscosity or should I be concerned?

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by tmarx

This thread has got me wondering.I only have the OEM gauge so please bare with me.When the vehicle has reached normal operating temps the gauges indicates presure halfway up the scale @ idling and rising to about three quater(max) when driving .After reading this thread I have noticed that when cold @ idling the gauge indicates slightly above half on the scale but still rises to about the same level when driving or maybe a little less than three quarter on the scale.When normal operating temps are reached she goes back to normal.Is this due to the cold oil not having reached its optimum viscosity or should I be concerned?

The stock gauges seem to reflect more often then not a difference between vehicles. The only way for sure to know what pressure your needle gauge is reflecting is to hook up a mechanical gauge and get a datum. Until then, the rest is speculation.

hth's

gb

[tmarx]

Ok, thanx Greg.

[Ron R]

Originally Posted by tmarx

After reading this thread I have noticed that when cold @ idling the gauge indicates slightly above half on the scale but still rises to about the same level when driving or maybe a little less than three quarter on the scale.When normal operating temps are reached she goes back to normal.Is this due to the cold oil not having reached its optimum viscosity or should I be concerned?

What happens is that when the engine is cold - and therefore the oil is cold - at idling the pressure is higher then warm.
See it as a matter of the oil not being able to flow through the oil galleries and lines as easy as when warm and 'thinner'
At idling the oilpump is delivering at it's full capacity for that RPM.
When rev's go up, at a certain pressure, the pressure regulator kicks in at a certain value. This happens because the oilpump now is able to deliver a higher pressure at a higher flowrate.
Because of this valve, the pressure will be restricted to the same value, either cold or warm.
(If you would look at a very precise pressure indicator you would find a very small difference but that's hardly noticable on your OEM-indicator)
So no, what you see is quite normal. You should get worried when you don't see this behaviour anymore

[tmarx]

Thanx Ron, makes sense