3B won't start after sitting a week

[Eric Winkworth]

After installing my new brakes, and new batteries (I tried starting it a bunch of times with is just barely turning over) I plugged it in for an hr, and I noticed when I came back out I didn't hear the sizzeling sound, so I'm guessing my block heater is dinked. It always starts without it anyway, so I got in and turned the key let it glow, and lots of starter power but it won't catch, it doesn't even try...

So I thought right away fuel, I pumped the primer and it was straight fuel no bubbles but there was a good amount of black that came out of the upper valve.. I also have a racor FWS so I drained that thinking it could be water frozen in it or something, and then I tried to purge the system of air, and for some reason I can't, I know I must have a leak somewhere...

I'm giving up for the day, any other thought's?

Some other thoughts I have are this low oil pressure valve, and the EDIC, I need someone to watch it to make sure it isn't tripping...

I guess I just have to go through the check list....

[Rig of Mortis]

Are you getting power to your glow plugs? -How are your glow plugs? (old-new?)

[maximBJ70]

those racor's are synonymous with air leaks. Check everything (all seals, plastic bowl, everything). I took out my racor and solved a similar problem

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth

After installing my new brakes, and new batteries (I tried starting it a bunch of times with is just barely turning over) I plugged it in for an hr, and I noticed when I came back out I didn't hear the sizzeling sound, so I'm guessing my block heater is dinked. It always starts without it anyway, so I got in and turned the key let it glow, and lots of starter power but it won't catch, it doesn't even try...

So I thought right away fuel, I pumped the primer and it was straight fuel no bubbles but there was a good amount of black that came out of the upper valve.. I also have a racor FWS so I drained that thinking it could be water frozen in it or something, and then I tried to purge the system of air, and for some reason I can't, I know I must have a leak somewhere...

I'm giving up for the day, any other thought's?

Some other thoughts I have are this low oil pressure valve, and the EDIC, I need someone to watch it to make sure it isn't tripping...

I guess I just have to go through the check list....

Eric just disconnect the edic arm and put the arm in run and give it a go.

Also check the fuses for the engine.

You have glow and it cranks, so fuel is whats needed.

[Eric Winkworth]

how do I make sure my glow plugs are working?

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth

how do I make sure my glow plugs are working?

Take off the buss bar and ohm out each one. Maximum resistance should be less than 400 ohms. If it's an open circuit, it's a bad plug.
Also see if you get power on the buss bar when the key is on "Glow".

[Eric Winkworth]

okay sounds good guys, I think the racor was sucking air when I tried bleeding the system, was because I didn't take the little vent off the top. I must have done something trying to jump it and start it with low battery power, but i'm going to check everything tomorrow...

thanks as always! I will keep ya posted...

cheers

[Eric Winkworth]

I can't get a power reading on the buss bar with the key on glow...

so I'm guessing this is my problem, all my fuses are good in the panel on driverside foot...

I didn't test individual glow plugs they were replaced not to long ago though.

What could the problem be?

My truck is the super glow type.

[cruiser_guy]

Can you hear if the relay is closing and more importantly, you need to measure voltage right after turning the key. If you are too slow in taking a voltage reading the timer will have turned the glow plugs off already!!

[Rig of Mortis]

I had a problem getting power to my glow-rail as the little metal bridge had corroded and snapped in half, after I located and addressed that issue, she fired up just fine.

Just a suggestion from my experience.

[Eric Winkworth]

thanks for the suggestion, I used the ether bunny (even though I don't like too) I just wanted to start it and bring it to the local diesel shop, once it did start which was only after a short spray, it was running rough so I cracked an injector nut and a bunch of air come out... ran better and better and now perfect...

Drove her around with the new brakes a bit, needed to pump the pedal twice at first, so I came home and adjusted the back brakes, and now it is just about perfect, I'm going to drive it tonight and bleed the lines one more time in the morning....

thanks for all your suggestions and help...

I love this forum I would be so lost without it

[brownbear]

So glow plugs ok then?

The primary relay on a superglow could be pooched.....

[Eric Winkworth]

The glow plugs are screwed, I went to start it tonight and it wouldn't go....

I check the relay on the LH apron under the hood, mine is attached to the side of the battery box, it had the right conectivity and non conectivity.

something is wrong, I can get a reading at all on the buss bar, with the key turned pre heat light on...

so back to the experts, this is supposed to be my daily driver and my little brother is getting sick of me taking his car...

please help
Eric

[cruiser_guy]

Is power coming out of the relay? If yes, is it making it to the first point shown in Nicolas' sketch? If not is there power to the relay? It could be a bad fusible link, bad wire or??

Basically, it's time to get out the volt meter and chase the power down.

[Eric Winkworth]

I'm going to go get a different volt meter, I was wondering what I should have it set on? also can I just use a bolt on the engine for ground?

thanks a bunch, I need to track this down...

Eric

[cruiser_guy]

Set the volt meter for whatever gives 12v DC a near full scale reading. The black lead goes on the battery negative post and you go looking with the red lead. The lead colors won't be important on a digital meter since it will register positive or negative volts.
Measure the battery first so you have an idea of how much volts you're looking for. Sometimes bad or internally corroded wires will pass voltage but not enough current. If you find wires with the nasty white stuff coming out you may want to replace those too as part of your work.

[brownbear]

Start Eric, looking at the wires from the relay to the busbar. Look for any breaks.

So when you turn on power(key to glow) the relay clicks and you have power on glowplug side?

Check the resistor on the start of the busbar. It could be shorted to open. SO no power would pass thru it.

Try taking a set of jumper cables, using only the red lead. Put the red lead on your positive lead on the battery, then on the busbar for 15 seconds or so, having some start the engine right after and you remove the lead. In essence you would be short cutting the relays.
No need for the black jumper cable lead as the glows still get ground thru the engine to the battery.

When you have some one working the key to glow, you take the a multimeter and put the black probe to ground(either battery, or anywhere clean steel on the engine) and use the positive to check for voltage, touching it to different parts of the busbar, working quickly back to the relays. Only cycle the glow plugs a few times. Then let them sit for 20 mins or so. No need to burn them out doing the is test, ok.

You set the meter to 20 volts or under(if manual set) and select DC. On a modern "auto range" meter, you just select DC volts and work from there. If you are buying a meter look for these features;\
-auto ranging
-digital(needles suck, what year is it?)
-and thats about all needed for a car.

c-tire has decent ones for cheap. Good enough for working on a basic cruisah.,

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Sometimes bad or internally corroded wires will pass voltage but not enough current. If you find wires with the nasty white stuff coming out you may want to replace those too as part of your work.

agree, but generally if they are corroded, they either break, or pass juice crappy and you get some power at the busbar, he gets none. So I think a real break, or a failed relay. or a blown resistor. resistor at the manifold.

[Eric Winkworth]

well thinking about what I did the last time I was trying to get it running... I was using the glow plugs and it would try to crank but very slow, and not thinking and just wanting to get to work I did it a few times in a row, maybe like 5 making my plugs glow everytime, even though I didn't want them too.. My batteries were on there way out, one much lower then the other and not holding charge like they should, so I have two new ones on now.

the wires in my glow system look healthier then anything for the rest of the truck....

I'm going to go over everything...

thanks for the advice
Eric