BJ42 Steering Conversion & Suspension Upgrade

[GregS]

After installing CCOT's HFS 2 1/2" springs with 2" shackles, Classic Cruisers' power steering conversion kit and new tie rod ends all around, I've run into some issues. I'm concerned with the clearence between the shock and drag link. I've used factory measurements for the lengths of the tie rod, relay rod and drag link when reinstalling and have manipulated the steering from stop to stop without contact at the shock but it's close. Under articulation, what will happen? How much clearence should I be looking for? Also, when installing the pitman arm onto the center shaft of the power steering box, it dosen't seem to slide as far onto the shaft as it did on the original manual box. This may contribute to the drag link/shock clearence issue. Has anyone had similar issues? How does my setup look to those of you with more experience than I? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...Greg

[Radd Cruisers]

Should definitly be on the shaft further, it is close otherwise.

Originally Posted by GregS

After installing CCOT's HFS 2 1/2" springs with 2" shackles, Classic Cruisers' power steering conversion kit and new tie rod ends all around, I've run into some issues. I'm concerned with the clearence between the shock and drag link. I've used factory measurements for the lengths of the tie rod, relay rod and drag link when reinstalling and have manipulated the steering from stop to stop without contact at the shock but it's close. Under articulation, what will happen? How much clearence should I be looking for? Also, when installing the pitman arm onto the center shaft of the power steering box, it dosen't seem to slide as far onto the shaft as it did on the original manual box. This may contribute to the drag link/shock clearence issue. Has anyone had similar issues? How does my setup look to those of you with more experience than I? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...Greg

[cruiser user]

Greg , I did pretty much the same install on my BJ42 last year. I scrounged the parts and used a saginaw pump on a homemade bracket under the alternator. Works great so far. I noticed the clearance issue too so I moved the box closer to the engine and actually had to trim the engine mount a bit to clear the box. Also trimmed the edge of the box pedestal [from Bill Dorry] to clear the pittman arm. It looks as if you just get the arm on another half inch or so [bigger impact wrench] it should work, perhaps trimming the mount a bit too. MIne is on till the nut is flush with the end of the shaft. Hope this helps! Tim

[GregS]

Tim,
I've thought about shifting components and trimming and that may be what I'll have to do. I want to solve this pitman arm issue before I go any farther. I'm using the original pitman and using as caliper, my inside diameter is 30 mm. The center shaft tapers up from 30 mm at the end to 31 mm or slightly more at the box. I've used a wrench and breaker bar for leverage and if I tighten that nut anymore, something's going to break. As it stands, I'm not flush with the end of the shaft yet. I'm thinking of trying a different pitman arm as my first move. Ultimately, your solution may be where I'm heading. Thanks for the info...Greg

[brisveganbj42]

ive got approx 4" lift on my bj42 and have bent my drag link when flexing due to the issue you describe..

I know of other people who have experienced the same issue with that much lift..

I am intending to make a bracket to space out the shock on that side.. heres my template made out of cardboard..

view from the front

view from the back

side view 1

side view 2

side view 3

distance between bolts.. spacing the shock out 50mm..

I intend to drill through the webbing on the bottom bolt to stop the braket pivoting.

Here is an example of another bracket that Twisty (aussie FJ40 build up in the 40 section) is now running..