[dieselcruiserhead]

good stuff here guys as always
Excited for that turbo to show up Bill!

[gifu]

Dougal... can you remind me what Turbo you are running? And how much did you turn up the fuel? Did you advance the pump timing? I remember you saying something about 1500F EGT before turbo (maybe you posted in C, can't remember).

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by gifu

Dougal... can you remind me what Turbo you are running? And how much did you turn up the fuel? Did you advance the pump timing? I remember you saying something about 1500F EGT before turbo (maybe you posted in C, can't remember).

I'm running a garrett T25 with a 0.49 A/R turbine housing. I run EGT's up to 750C pre turbo.

I'm afraid I've lost all reference to what the fuel pump should have been set at. My fuel pump has the boost device (aneroid) on the back which was leaking for a long time. At the last shop rebuild (pushing 10 years ago now) they adjusted the fuel up to deliver the required amount when the aneroid was leaking.
So when I fixed the aneroid leak I got massive amounts of fuel. I've since turned the fuel screw down by around 2 turns and still back off the pedal to keep the EGT's under that 750C limit at altitude and on sustained hills.

I have my aneroid adjusted so there's no black smoke visible when driving it. This does put a damper on the low end response a little, but preventing pollution is worth it IMO.

[gifu]

ah... 750C is... 1350F. From what I understand, that's pretty darn hot. Not quite enough to do damage, unless it stays at that level for a long time.

and is that in a Rover? What transmission is behind it? Auto or stick?

I'm really interested to see/feel/drive the difference between a pumped up 4BD1T and a 1HDT or 1HZ(t). Too bad neither really exist around here.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by gifu

ah... 750C is... 1350F. From what I understand, that's pretty darn hot. Not quite enough to do damage, unless it stays at that level for a long time.

and is that in a Rover? What transmission is behind it? Auto or stick?

I'm really interested to see/feel/drive the difference between a pumped up 4BD1T and a 1HDT or 1HZ(t). Too bad neither really exist around here.

Yes it's in a rangerover with the Isuzu truck gearbox behind it (5 speed). Slow shifting box but bullet proof.

There's a big difference in feel between these engines and the toyota 6's. These are thumpers, massive low end which tapers off to not much high end.
The toyotas are mostly the opposite, they'll happily spin up way past the Isuzu's rev limit but don't have the low rpm punch.

Yes 750 is as hot as you ever want to go, but I find that with that much power you don't end up using all of it for very long. The average hill is dispatched in under a couple of minutes. You'd need to be towing or living in the alps to need more in which case 600 or so is a sensible sustained load.

[gifu]

88_TLC... any update? Did you get that upgraded Turbo? Success? Or still powerless?

[SUZU60]

Sorry it took me so long guys I was formerly AJ60 but couldnt remeber my password and forgot my pasword to my old e-mail address(major brain fart). On top of that I have been knee deep in my conversion and just finished last week. I have a BeCool radiator with a SPAL 14" fan, 86' 4BD1T with 42K orig miles to a (I know you guys are going to hate this but I love it) TH400. It just wants to pull. I love this thing its a monster even dispite the lack of a OD which I have a plan for later on. If you guys are interested in some pics let me know. By the way the engine is sitting on a FJ60 with a 6" suspension lift 33" BFGs, and FOX Shocks all the way around, shackle reversel. I tried to hit the oil pan with the front pumpkin yesterday and couldnt its awesome.
What can I say 'I LOVE THIS THING'.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by SUZU60

If you guys are interested in some pics let me know.

You're making us ask?

Hurry up with the pics.

[88tlc]

the turbo upgrade on the 4bd1t is finished and took it up the 'tester hill' . it has much more power, more boost, and runs cooler because of getting more air.

the turbo I used was a T3 built by blaastperformance.com.

t3 t50 turbo
turbine .48a/r, 68 trim.
compressor .42 a/r, 42.5/60.1 50 trim

I had to replumb everything. new hoses and fittings for the coolant, new stainless line for the oil feed, and reused the metal hardline with a new fitting for the oil out, and welded in a new fitment. also had to reweld the cast exhaust-out onto the wastegate flange of the turbo. so all this took a fair bit of headscratching, and build.

And while I had the landcruiser offline, I decided to do a bunch of other needed work
birfield rebuild, new bearings, new calipers.
new brakelines
added a dieseltherm unit into the diesel inlet on the filter, sweet for antigelling and cold weather and helps be able to use biodiesel blends.
added a new fuse box for all power, removing a bunch of leads going straight to the battery.

but the turbo does great. I can hear it whining at idle, i can get 5-8 pounds of boost almost immediately, and wind it out, I get 15-18psi. egts now max out at about 1100, and this is now preturbo!

some images of the mod.

[Dougal]

Excellent news.

So just to get a benchmark for this turbo, how many rpm until it deliveres say 10psi boost and how much earlier is this than the original?

Do you know your boost and EGT figures at a 100km/h flat road cruise?

[SUZU60]

Originally Posted by Dougal

You're making us ask?

Hurry up with the pics.

I ll post them on sunday, ill be off island until then.

[88tlc]

Originally Posted by Dougal

Excellent news.

So just to get a benchmark for this turbo, how many rpm until it deliveres say 10psi boost and how much earlier is this than the original?

Do you know your boost and EGT figures at a 100km/h flat road cruise?

i have not taken it yet on a road trip. need to get the exhaust pipe put back together, right now it is cut just infront of the muffler. Good metrics to define, i will comment back when I return to the shop, but that will be late OCT. Traveling in asia at the moment.

[SUZU60]

Here are some pics of my latest conversion. 4BD1-T into a 85' FJ60.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by SUZU60

Here are some pics of my latest conversion. 4BD1-T into a 85' FJ60.

Cool, so that's the mid 80's version with the IHI turbo? What are the other details.

[SUZU60]

The conversion consist starting from the front,
1. Spal fan 14"
2. Be Cool radiator 26" x 18"
3. 86' 4BD1-T w/IHI turbo 2 1/2" exaust to a 40series muffler
4. IDS kit w/the steel adapter ring 5/8" thick.
5. 6 bolt TQ converter
6. TH400 with manual shift kit
7. AA to the split kit
8. high angle front shaft
9. rear shaft was shortened by 1 1/2"
10. Kept the original pwr steering resvr
11. used a 87' suzuki samuari throtle cable
12. used a ford explorer tranny cooler for the TH400
13. Autometer 2888 that doesent work bad mag PU
14. alot of metal work and time

The one major problem is I dont have an OD, Major problem.
The guys, at I wont say said they have experienced problems with customers doing this conversion using the T700R4. Something about the tranny not shifting correctly. Assured me that going with the TH400 was the way to go . So their I went topped out at about 53mph. Not very happy. It runs fine and pulls like a loco-motive but doesent have the legs. I will probably go w/35" or 37" tires. Do you know of a company that sells taller gears than the ones I have in it 3.70.

[rtarh2o]

I would say you got bad advice about the 700R4. It took me going to a second transmission shop to get mine set up right but it is a great transmission. They are adjustable in several ways to make them work great behind a diesel. My 6.2 runs at 2100 rpm at 70 mph with 285/75/16 (33") tires and 4.11 gearing. I wish I had your 3.70 gearing, that would probably put it closer to 1,800 rpm which is supposed to be the sweet spot for mileage with the 6.2.
Rusty

[hayes167]

Anyone know a rough estimate of the engine weights of 4bd1t and a 3fe? I'm trying to figure what OME springs to put up front of my 80. I'm thinking 850's.

[astr]

Originally Posted by hayes167

Anyone know a rough estimate of the engine weights of 4bd1t and a 3fe? I'm trying to figure what OME springs to put up front of my 80. I'm thinking 850's.

Roughly, the weight of a 4BD1T with A/C compressor, starter, alternator, wastegated turbo. Intake & exhaust manifolds, flywheel, PS pump, Injector pump and sump full of engine oil is 785 lbs. (See Post #440 in this thread). I haven't weighed the 3FE yet.

[88tlc]

While I was working on the turbo charger change I also did some much needed electrical. since the electrical is practically connected to everything, i got to go through the gages, fuel pump, fan, fog lights, and even set up a circuit breaker that split into 9 fuseable circuits.

One key item I added was the Diesel therm heater. ATG Diesel-Therm - Fuel Preheater for Diesel, Biodiesel, SVO/WVO The heater will be a nice added feature this winter, as we get likely 10 days of -20 def F weather, and months under o deg F.

This 12v heater comes from germany, is well designed, but expensive IMO. The control has a switch, and a glow plug style heater machined into a banjo bolt. this banjo bolt replaces the bolt in your fuel filter, for the incoming fuel. then fuel coming into the filter is heated, and gelling does not occur. good piece of mind when its cold and not plugged in. I will try it let everyone know, it is 8degs here already.

The last few winters in park city, I have been burning biodiesel in a Cummins dodge. I blend with diesel in the winter, and in DEC and JAN time of year I burn only diesel. even then I have had the diesel gel up and starve the IP.

[andrew.fletcher]

Question on turbo placement so close to the brake reservoir. I'm worried that the heat coming off the turbo is going to cook the reservoir on mine. The way it's currently set up I'm about 2" max separation between the two. 4BD2-T in an FJ55.

Originally Posted by SUZU60

The conversion consist starting from the front,
1. Spal fan 14"
2. Be Cool radiator 26" x 18"
3. 86' 4BD1-T w/IHI turbo 2 1/2" exaust to a 40series muffler
4. IDS kit w/the steel adapter ring 5/8" thick.
5. 6 bolt TQ converter
6. TH400 with manual shift kit
7. AA to the split kit
8. high angle front shaft
9. rear shaft was shortened by 1 1/2"
10. Kept the original pwr steering resvr
11. used a 87' suzuki samuari throtle cable
12. used a ford explorer tranny cooler for the TH400
13. Autometer 2888 that doesent work bad mag PU
14. alot of metal work and time

The one major problem is I dont have an OD, Major problem.
The guys, at I wont say said they have experienced problems with customers doing this conversion using the T700R4. Something about the tranny not shifting correctly. Assured me that going with the TH400 was the way to go . So their I went topped out at about 53mph. Not very happy. It runs fine and pulls like a loco-motive but doesent have the legs. I will probably go w/35" or 37" tires. Do you know of a company that sells taller gears than the ones I have in it 3.70.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by andrew.fletcher

Question on turbo placement so close to the brake reservoir. I'm worried that the heat coming off the turbo is going to cook the reservoir on mine. The way it's currently set up I'm about 2" max separation between the two. 4BD2-T in an FJ55.

Make a 1 or 2 layer heat sheild if you're worried. 2" is plenty of space to fit that in. Lagging the housing and downpipe will help too.
The surface of the exhaust turbine could reach 600C if there was no cooling air going past.

[88tlc]

yes fletcher the turbo spacing is more important on the exhaust turbine side that is very hot. avoid getting close to alternator, or any rubber lines, silicone lines. the compressor is always receiving cool air, and so is not nearly as hot. i have a laser temp gage, I will compare the turbine to compressor temp.

[RHINO]

havent noticed any heat probs with my brakes.

[andrew.fletcher]

Thanks guys, I think I'm going to go with the heat shield idea.

[88tlc]

had a chance to take the fj62 out this last weekend, elk hunting in the Uinta mountains. there are many Forest Service roads to navigate if you want to hunt up high. there were also a few good double track trails that required 4 wheel low, in low, that we drove around on the landcruiser - with the diesel, advance adapters, lifted OME springs and shocks, 33 inch tires, rebuilt birfields, new brake lines, etc, all did fabulous. it was in its element.

with all this type of FR driving, I still managed to get 24 mpg. I think on a road trip, I will get even better, letting it in OD, lock up, and be efficient. hoping for 26-28 mpg, i may be heading to Fruita CO this weekend for another road trip.

there were also some small details that popped up - rattles, a small exhaust leak (but even a small diesel leak stinks), wires that rattled loose (i will never use butt connectors again, its solid state solder from now on), so it was a little more shop time post trip for some quick fixes.

I also got my tachometer calibrated using a RPM sensor from harbor freight. this cheap device seemed pretty consistent and accurate, and so then ripped the dash out, the tach out, the back off, and recalibrated.

some stats, just for dougal.

at 62mph (100 kmh) highway speeds flat and level, wind? this speed is the low end of efficiency it seems for OD, it likes to run a little faster with the OD tall gearing, and the 33 inch tires. slightly overgeared but now the 4bd1t can handle a little lugging no problem.

1800 rpm
900 F egt
7-8 psi of boost.

up 6% grades, shift down to 3rd gear, and still maintain 60mph! i can not tell you guys how great that is!

65 mph
2900 rpm
1150 F egt (max I have seen is 1200 F) awesome! more boost, more air, cooler egt.
15-17 psi of boost

I am not running the radiator fan. it maintains a good engine temp on the open road, only time I manually turn on the fan is going up steep Forest roads, in 3rd, or 2nd. other wise it runs cool.

The new turbo, as many have described, is the heart of good performance, good efficiency, cool running engine. If I could suggest any single mod to the 4bd1t, it would be to make sure you have a great turbo with quick response fast spooling, and capable of 15 psi of boost minimum.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by 88tlc

1800 rpm
900 F egt
7-8 psi of boost.

up 6% grades, shift down to 3rd gear, and still maintain 60mph! i can not tell you guys how great that is!

65 mph
2900 rpm
1150 F egt (max I have seen is 1200 F) awesome! more boost, more air, cooler egt.
15-17 psi of boost

Thanks for sharing those, looks like your turbo investment has really paid off.

To pull 2.3t up a 6% grade at 60mph means you've got 60kw at the wheels.

Your flat road figures are very close to mine. I run
2000rpm
8-9psi boost
800F EGT's

My cooler EGT's are the result of being a little lower geared (2000rpm vs 1800) and I've probably got a slightly more aerodynamic vehicle with smaller tyres.

[gifu]

so... 88TLC guy... what's the final consensus? I mean, are you happy with the power? noise level? MPG? would you do the swap again? How does it compare in get-up-and-go to the 3FE?

[88tlc]

short answer is yes. for sure. more power, and fuel economy that is close to double the 3fe.

rattles and vibration- these have been minimized with time and revisions - ASTR showed up in park city and we drove the land cruiser before turbo swap. it still had a low idle rattle, and a high speed vibration. When doing the turbo and inspecting, I noticed the ujoint bolts loose. so this was causing the high speed vibes, and an easy fix. i also recently increased rpms to about 900 idle, and 675 rpm when in drive (auto trans). the turbo has helped idle with positive pressure at idle rpms. I also feel like at cruise it now has more power and runs more smoothly, on a good tarmac surface it is really nice, my mother even approved. I found intake hitting a body heat shield, and air intake pipes touching and vibrating, and corrected these small but annoying issues.
Recommedations - i would be sure to use an angled rubber engine mount, like the isuzu stock style would be my next choice. there are others out there but I like this style over a vertical pattern. I would somehow try to confirm the flywheel, spacer, and plate are balanced. i still think I can back off my injector timing a degree to smooth idle.

power - compared to the 3fe the diesel has more power with the improved turbo (with out turbo, or with weak turbo, it has WAY less power), more instant power with out having to wait for it to spin up to a high rpm. i do not feel that it has an excess amount of power (like driving my 6bt cummins in a dodge pickup), but i am okay with that since I am getting such great mileage, over 500 miles on a tank. in low gears it has Tremendous power, and torque. it climbs easily and the torque is very noticeable, with an instant burst if needed to bump over something, or to get a run at something. In four wheel low, and in low gear, there is a lot of gear advantage here, but it would pull its guts out and blow other stuff apart on my stock rig. i really enjoyed this lowend power with 4 people and a big ole cooler of beer in the back, and it barked up the hill.
Recommendations: I would suggest smaller tires if you want to be powered for highway driving, to reduce rubber gearing. I have not found 3600 rpms yet, have only gotten to 3000, so yet to really feel the full potential? fuel amount seems about right, i would always prefer the leaner more efficient side. i will report my max speed on the flats some day. Install boost, egt, and oil pressure minimum, more sensors the more data you can make more power adjustments with.

ease of swap, and maintenance - this was my first and was not insignificant. i had high expectations perhaps, with altitude, and sustained hills to climb. so it took me awhile. but the electric is easy, the isuzu diesel swapper is easy, even the turbo and the main components are mechanical, and you can work on them. i hate chasing electrical problems down. the space seems perfect. there is room, but it fits well vertically, from firewall to radiator, and oilpan to diff. just got it in there. always starts. even in 20deg weather it starts with glow plugs and hardly smokes. the 6bt is sluggish in the same temps. very reliable starting, glowplugs, block heater, and diesel therm will insure starting in the coldest conditions.
recommendations:i would do the turbo fitting and injection pump, and some of these other major jobs on the engine stand, but it is pretty easy to work on in the vehicle. there are still oil leaks. seems like all diesels always leak? i will continue to chase these down and try to reduce its nasty habit of leaving its mark everywhere.

[gifu]

great info. thanks for recapping your thoughts. Couple more... did you ever turn your fuel up? (either before or after the turbo swap)
Is your speedo readings from above, actual speed (ie: compensated for 33" tires) or just what the gauge is reading (which would imply that you're really going about 67MPH up that hill.)

[88tlc]

Originally Posted by gifu

great info. thanks for recapping your thoughts. Couple more... did you ever turn your fuel up? (either before or after the turbo swap)
Is your speedo readings from above, actual speed (ie: compensated for 33" tires) or just what the gauge is reading (which would imply that you're really going about 67MPH up that hill.)

injection pump was rebuilt and fuel was turned up from stock, i do not know how much. i have since turned it down 1/4 turn.

actual speeds are reported, and actual mileage is reported, adjusted by 10% for the tires.