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03-07-08, 01:57 PM
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#661 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan/Costa Rica
Posts: 308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Here's the direct drive starter. Not a photo though.
I think it's a hitachi item.

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Wow! How do you keep it so clean??
__________________
Stock FJ62
SOA Samurai Tintop
Ford E-350 4x4 Diesel
M-29 Weasel
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03-07-08, 02:52 PM
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#662 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser Jimmy
My 80 with a 3FE is getting around 10 mpg (i know it should be getting better) and the Isuzu can get around 32mpg.
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32mpg is too optimistic for me.
I'd do the sums on 25mpg. If you do solely slow speed highway work then you could average 32. But offroad and urban driving will slaughter that number.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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03-07-08, 02:53 PM
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#663 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astr
Wow! How do you keep it so clean??
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Virtual teflon.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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03-07-08, 04:15 PM
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#664 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: valley of the sunstroke, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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4BD's dont get 32 MPG,, i dont know where you got that number. i have seen between 22 and 27 MPG in mine, real numbers, real driving real cruiser. loaded to the hilt for camping was 22-24MPG and unloaded driving around town mostly on surface streets is 26-27MPG,, its been almost a year now and i am doing a pretty consistant 24-25MPG.
also as i and many many other diesel owners have said and will continue to say, if your doing a diesel swap to save money dont bother. you may save at the pump in mileage but you'll spend more money on everything else related to the engine.
__________________
Clay
75 BDJ55- biopig
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03-08-08, 07:37 PM
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#665 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 51
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700r4
Thanks, I definately will check with AA before getting the trans built.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gifu
just a quick sanity check for Hayes 167 and Oregon 80... when/if you decide to get a 700R4 built, call advance adapters first... some of their adapter kits (ie: 700R4->Fj60 splitcase) require a special shaft. Would be a shame to build a new transmission, then need to have it rebuilt with the correct shaft.
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03-09-08, 08:25 AM
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#666 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 51
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Help with IP
I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully  . Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.
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03-09-08, 12:49 PM
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#667 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayes167
I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully  . Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.
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Basically it's a japanese puzzle but there is one combination of twist/rock/pull which will let it slide right out.
It will take a lot of mucking around before it comes loose. Then replacing it will take longer because you've got to line up both the gasket and the timing gear.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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03-09-08, 07:49 PM
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#668 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 716
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hayes167, any pictures of your conversion? Would love to see it and hear how it runs in the 80 when you are finished. Would love to compare it to my 6.2, it would be great if we could get all the 80 conversions together someday to compare them all!
Rusty
__________________
1994 Mercedes G350DT
94 FZJ80 6.2 diesel (sold)
97 FZJ80 Currently son's vehicle - lifted, BFG MT's and Aussie Lockers
78 FJ40 Restoration project
Many old British cars in various states of repair
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03-09-08, 09:12 PM
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#669 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indy,IN. But currently on the road: SoCal,NV,AZ,NM.
Posts: 1,355
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Thanks for the realistic notes about the mpg. I can update the scenerio now.
The improved fuel milage is not the means to my end, however I want to understand when the benefit will payoff. I want to be about to tow a cruiser with a crusier and have the option to use diesel.
Last edited by Cruiser Jimmy; 03-09-08 at 09:20 PM.
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03-10-08, 09:12 PM
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#670 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: valley of the sunstroke, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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i'll tell you exactly when to expect payoff, when you fire it up the first time and piss your pants,, consider it even
__________________
Clay
75 BDJ55- biopig
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03-10-08, 09:31 PM
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#671 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: park city UT and Heber City UT
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayes167
I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully  . Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.
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IP removal - I recently removed my IP for a rebuild, and still remember the wrangling. i recall also having to remove the oil return line from the oil cooler. this is a hard line, and interferes with the aneroid, stud in the back of the IP pump. You also mention slotted holes. these are wrong bolts to remove. you need to remove the bolts from the timing cover side (5 of them?) and a nut at the bottom center, IP side, that screw into the IP plate. sounds like the bolts you removed are for timing the IP.
A twist as dougal mentioned is also required. the image may help..... brute force will not help the situation, this thing slips out.
And as dougal mentioned, getting it out is the easy part, getting it back in is the hard part. the IP gear does not want to stay in the position needed for the timing, it wants to rotate one way or the other as it is sitting TDC, and does not want to stay there. But if you are doing a bottom end rebuild, just remove the idler gear, crank and the IP, and it will be much easier.
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03-10-08, 10:10 PM
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#672 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: park city UT and Heber City UT
Posts: 77
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glow plug relay system
anyone make a glow plug relay system to work automatically?
I currently have a push button. works okay, but long term would be nice to have it work as a automatic system.
1. auto timer, with a light for 'wait to start'
2. controlled by TS housing temp
3. help with cold start in the morning.
4. maybe even turn on with my remote Unlock/alarm.
i have an isuzu relay, but I think I need more electronics.
TS temp sensor?
timer?
dash light?
Push button sure was easier!
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03-11-08, 09:54 AM
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#673 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: NE Texas
Posts: 716
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I bought a variable glow plug timer/relay for my 6.2 diesel conversion from a place called Peninsular Diesel. It doesn't have all the features you mention but it is wired through the ignition so it works just like a factory set-up. I can't remember the exact time but it can be set from like 5-30 seconds or something by the turn of a screw. I could probably wire a light into it easily but I just go by the click of the selenoid to know when it shuts off, it is pretty loud probably because I mounted it on the firewall on the drivers side. It was a bit expensive, seems like around $175 but I like the idea of it being like a factory set-up. Rusty
__________________
1994 Mercedes G350DT
94 FZJ80 6.2 diesel (sold)
97 FZJ80 Currently son's vehicle - lifted, BFG MT's and Aussie Lockers
78 FJ40 Restoration project
Many old British cars in various states of repair
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03-11-08, 04:31 PM
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#674 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan/Costa Rica
Posts: 308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88tlc
anyone make a glow plug relay system to work automatically?
I currently have a push button. works okay, but long term would be nice to have it work as a automatic system.
1. auto timer, with a light for 'wait to start'
2. controlled by TS housing temp
3. help with cold start in the morning.
4. maybe even turn on with my remote Unlock/alarm.
i have an isuzu relay, but I think I need more electronics.
TS temp sensor?
timer?
dash light?
Push button sure was easier!
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If you can get the parts of a 4BD1T-equiped NPR truck, you will need the Glow Timer, Glow Plug Relay, and Glow Timer Thermo Switch. You probably already have the Glow Timer Thermo Switch on your engine. There may be up to three temp sensors screwed into the thermostat housing - two switches and one thermistor. The thermistor (temp-sensitive resistor) has one wire and is used to drive the temp gauge. The sensor with the two wires is a switch used in conjunction with the exhaust brake. The one you want is the single-wire switch. It will activate the glow plugs when the coolant temp is below 0* C. If the truck was equiped with a 4BD2T (92-97), then the glow plug system is different and more complicated. It had a different controller, an extra relay and dropping resistor that allowed two power levels for the preheat.
Be sure to get the connectors also.
Pin 7 of the Glow Timer goes to the "Glow Indicator". The other side of the indicator is wired to 12 V.
__________________
Stock FJ62
SOA Samurai Tintop
Ford E-350 4x4 Diesel
M-29 Weasel
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03-11-08, 09:00 PM
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#675 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 51
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IP
Thanks for the tips guys!
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03-20-08, 05:51 PM
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#676 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Park City & Heber City, Utah
Posts: 2,456
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Excellent illustrations. This thread is starting to become a real force to be reckoned with IMO
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03-23-08, 12:09 PM
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#677 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan/Costa Rica
Posts: 308
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4BD2-T FSM Available for download.
For all you working on 4BD2T's, there is now the FSM for this engine available on MattF's site: Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Downloads
A while back in this thread, there was a discussion regarding the Altitude Compensation Aneroid and the turbo boost compensator. This manual has illustrations of both in the fuel injection section and may clear up some of the controversy. Also, for those interested in clever and inovative ways of doing things, check out how Isuzu uses the altitude compensating aneroid to limit fueling under high coolant temp conditions to help prevent destroying your engine.
__________________
Stock FJ62
SOA Samurai Tintop
Ford E-350 4x4 Diesel
M-29 Weasel
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03-23-08, 06:20 PM
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#678 (permalink)
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Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 5
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Nice work, astr. This is awesome!
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03-31-08, 07:53 PM
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#679 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
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4BD/NV4500 kits are now ready!!
Ok, the first of the kits are now ready!!!

The basic kits include 1 adapter plate w/bolts, 1 pilot bushing, and 1 clutch disk.
Don't forget the first 10 to send back a write-up with pics will get $50 back.
I will try to get some pics of the whole thing bolted together in the next few days.
Dieseltim
770-712-8644
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04-01-08, 02:53 AM
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#680 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Qld, Australia
Posts: 94
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And the price is?
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04-01-08, 04:35 AM
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#681 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
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Pricing for kit.
In respect for the forum rules and so as not to make anyone mad by advertising prices. I have not included it in any of my postings. Plz pm me and I will be happy to tell you all the details.Dieseltim
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04-01-08, 10:54 AM
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#682 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Michigan/Costa Rica
Posts: 308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozwallaby
And the price is?
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I talked to Dieseltim and he told me the kits are $750 and includes the machine work needed to modify the Isuzu 5speed bellhousing. If you chose to have someone else modify your bellhousing then they are knocking $100 off the kit for the machine work. The kit includes the pilot bearing, the clutch disk and the adapter plate for $650.
Sound like a pretty good deal to me. Wish my wife wasn't insisting on an automatic.
__________________
Stock FJ62
SOA Samurai Tintop
Ford E-350 4x4 Diesel
M-29 Weasel
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04-01-08, 12:22 PM
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#683 (permalink)
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The Anti-Leafer
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas, Georgia
Posts: 2,266
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 Is that 1/2" alum plate? I'd use 3/4" min. steel plate for all the havoc between. That will be too much stress on the alum & it will eventually fail. Think about how much wt. you are sandwiching together. Are those 6 - 7/16" fine threaded countersunk bolts? Not enough clamping fasteners & too much mat'l. is removed for those bolt heads - you'll soon see stress cracks there first. Look at any SM plate adaptor & compare it to your design. JMO & I'm just an armchair enjuneer
Last edited by LC_Hamma; 04-01-08 at 01:15 PM.
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04-01-08, 04:59 PM
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#684 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
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Adapter plate
The plate is 6065 t651 Aircraft quality alum. and all of the bolts are 1/2 coarse threaded bolts. I went with the 1/2" thick so that the input shaft and the pilot bearing have the proper ingaugement, if you use anything thicker you will not be into the pilot bearing far enough. I decided that 1/2 was thicker than the bell housing, so the bellhousing would most likely fail before the adapter plate.
For those interested here is a few more pics.
Dieseltim
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04-01-08, 05:06 PM
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#685 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseltim
The plate is 6065 t651 Aircraft quality alum. and all of the bolts are 1/2 coarse threaded bolts. I went with the 1/2" thick so that the input shaft and the pilot bearing have the proper ingaugement, if you use anything thicker you will not be into the pilot bearing far enough. I decided that 1/2 was thicker than the bell housing, so the bellhousing would most likely fail before the adapter plate.
For those interested here is a few more pics.
Dieseltim
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Could you do a steel plate option for people who want something heavier duty? I can imagine some people needing to use mounting arrangements which place quite high bending moments on the bellhousing.
A steel plate will flex 1/3 of what aluminium does, but it will also weigh 3x as much.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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04-02-08, 01:30 PM
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#686 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 162
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Nice, I wondered what was happening with your adapter. Seems like you needed to use a Dodge NV4500, Is that right ?
__________________
" I'm still pissed about the Lincoln Lamp ! "  1983 FJ60 Weber carb, Aussie locker, H55F, Homemade bumpers and rock rails, winch, headers, OME Dakar springs, Saginaw ps, smog pump AWOL, 33/12.5s, 4.56s, York OBA, Camo, 
1993 FZJ80 "Backbone" (wifes)
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04-03-08, 04:35 AM
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#687 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 31
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You do have to have an NV4500 to use this kit, it can be Dodge or Gm but it will have to have an input shaft for a Dodge because they are about 1" longer than the Gm input shaft. If you have a Gm NV4500 then all you have to do is change out the input and you can use this adatper kit.Dieseltim
Last edited by Dieseltim; 04-09-08 at 07:45 PM.
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04-04-08, 05:47 AM
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#688 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: valley of the sunstroke, AZ
Posts: 3,189
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hey guys, made a litle youtube clip ya might like
YouTube - FJ55 Diesel
__________________
Clay
75 BDJ55- biopig
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04-05-08, 12:54 PM
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#689 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sandy, UT
Posts: 162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseltim
You do have to have an NV4500, it can be Dodge or Gm but it will have to have an input shaft for a Dodge because they are about 1" longer than the Gm input shaft. If you have a Gm NV4500 then all you have to do is change out the input and you can use this adatper kit.Dieseltim
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No I don't, but if I go this route then I could try to find the Dodge trans to save some work.
__________________
" I'm still pissed about the Lincoln Lamp ! "  1983 FJ60 Weber carb, Aussie locker, H55F, Homemade bumpers and rock rails, winch, headers, OME Dakar springs, Saginaw ps, smog pump AWOL, 33/12.5s, 4.56s, York OBA, Camo, 
1993 FZJ80 "Backbone" (wifes)
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04-10-08, 02:44 PM
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#690 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 428
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4BD2t in FJ40
hey guys... just thought i'd chime in here. Was at a local Cruiser shop, and they were working on an ultra clean FJ40 with a 4BD2t. Was a tight fit in the FJ40... but it fit nearly perfect. Lots of room between the axle and sump... only tricky thing they had to do, was find a different starter. They brought the original starter to a starter shop, and had one built that twisted the starter closer to the block.
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/128585-isuzu-4bd1t-swap.html
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