isuzu 4BD1T swap?!

[astr]

Originally Posted by Dougal

Here's the direct drive starter. Not a photo though.
I think it's a hitachi item.

Wow! How do you keep it so clean??

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by Cruiser Jimmy

My 80 with a 3FE is getting around 10 mpg (i know it should be getting better) and the Isuzu can get around 32mpg.

32mpg is too optimistic for me.
I'd do the sums on 25mpg. If you do solely slow speed highway work then you could average 32. But offroad and urban driving will slaughter that number.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by astr

Wow! How do you keep it so clean??

Virtual teflon.

[RHINO]

4BD's dont get 32 MPG,, i dont know where you got that number. i have seen between 22 and 27 MPG in mine, real numbers, real driving real cruiser. loaded to the hilt for camping was 22-24MPG and unloaded driving around town mostly on surface streets is 26-27MPG,, its been almost a year now and i am doing a pretty consistant 24-25MPG.

also as i and many many other diesel owners have said and will continue to say, if your doing a diesel swap to save money dont bother. you may save at the pump in mileage but you'll spend more money on everything else related to the engine.

[hayes167]

Thanks, I definately will check with AA before getting the trans built.

Originally Posted by gifu

just a quick sanity check for Hayes 167 and Oregon 80... when/if you decide to get a 700R4 built, call advance adapters first... some of their adapter kits (ie: 700R4->Fj60 splitcase) require a special shaft. Would be a shame to build a new transmission, then need to have it rebuilt with the correct shaft.

[hayes167]

I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully. Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by hayes167

I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully. Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.

Basically it's a japanese puzzle but there is one combination of twist/rock/pull which will let it slide right out.
It will take a lot of mucking around before it comes loose. Then replacing it will take longer because you've got to line up both the gasket and the timing gear.

[rtarh2o]

hayes167, any pictures of your conversion? Would love to see it and hear how it runs in the 80 when you are finished. Would love to compare it to my 6.2, it would be great if we could get all the 80 conversions together someday to compare them all!
Rusty

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Thanks for the realistic notes about the mpg. I can update the scenerio now.
The improved fuel milage is not the means to my end, however I want to understand when the benefit will payoff. I want to be about to tow a cruiser with a crusier and have the option to use diesel.

[RHINO]

i'll tell you exactly when to expect payoff, when you fire it up the first time and piss your pants,, consider it even

[88tlc]

Originally Posted by hayes167

I am trying to remove my IP to do a bottom end rebuild and am having trouble. I followed the FSM, removed all connections, 4 front mounting nuts, 1 rear nut and bracket. I have pulled, tugged, yanked, and even some mild crow bar action and it will not come all the way out. It comes out about 3/4 in and can rotate about the same due to the holes are slotted, but it will not come out fully. Any advice? I'm sure I can get it when I remove the timing cover and idler gear but I want to know how to get it loose if the engine was still in the truck.

IP removal - I recently removed my IP for a rebuild, and still remember the wrangling. i recall also having to remove the oil return line from the oil cooler. this is a hard line, and interferes with the aneroid, stud in the back of the IP pump. You also mention slotted holes. these are wrong bolts to remove. you need to remove the bolts from the timing cover side (5 of them?) and a nut at the bottom center, IP side, that screw into the IP plate. sounds like the bolts you removed are for timing the IP.

A twist as dougal mentioned is also required. the image may help..... brute force will not help the situation, this thing slips out.

And as dougal mentioned, getting it out is the easy part, getting it back in is the hard part. the IP gear does not want to stay in the position needed for the timing, it wants to rotate one way or the other as it is sitting TDC, and does not want to stay there. But if you are doing a bottom end rebuild, just remove the idler gear, crank and the IP, and it will be much easier.

[88tlc]

anyone make a glow plug relay system to work automatically?

I currently have a push button. works okay, but long term would be nice to have it work as a automatic system.
1. auto timer, with a light for 'wait to start'
2. controlled by TS housing temp
3. help with cold start in the morning.
4. maybe even turn on with my remote Unlock/alarm.

i have an isuzu relay, but I think I need more electronics.

TS temp sensor?
timer?
dash light?

Push button sure was easier!

[rtarh2o]

I bought a variable glow plug timer/relay for my 6.2 diesel conversion from a place called Peninsular Diesel. It doesn't have all the features you mention but it is wired through the ignition so it works just like a factory set-up. I can't remember the exact time but it can be set from like 5-30 seconds or something by the turn of a screw. I could probably wire a light into it easily but I just go by the click of the selenoid to know when it shuts off, it is pretty loud probably because I mounted it on the firewall on the drivers side. It was a bit expensive, seems like around $175 but I like the idea of it being like a factory set-up. Rusty

[astr]

Originally Posted by 88tlc

anyone make a glow plug relay system to work automatically?

I currently have a push button. works okay, but long term would be nice to have it work as a automatic system.
1. auto timer, with a light for 'wait to start'
2. controlled by TS housing temp
3. help with cold start in the morning.
4. maybe even turn on with my remote Unlock/alarm.

i have an isuzu relay, but I think I need more electronics.

TS temp sensor?
timer?
dash light?

Push button sure was easier!

If you can get the parts of a 4BD1T-equiped NPR truck, you will need the Glow Timer, Glow Plug Relay, and Glow Timer Thermo Switch. You probably already have the Glow Timer Thermo Switch on your engine. There may be up to three temp sensors screwed into the thermostat housing - two switches and one thermistor. The thermistor (temp-sensitive resistor) has one wire and is used to drive the temp gauge. The sensor with the two wires is a switch used in conjunction with the exhaust brake. The one you want is the single-wire switch. It will activate the glow plugs when the coolant temp is below 0* C. If the truck was equiped with a 4BD2T (92-97), then the glow plug system is different and more complicated. It had a different controller, an extra relay and dropping resistor that allowed two power levels for the preheat.

Be sure to get the connectors also.

Pin 7 of the Glow Timer goes to the "Glow Indicator". The other side of the indicator is wired to 12 V.

[hayes167]

Thanks for the tips guys!

[dieselcruiserhead]

Excellent illustrations. This thread is starting to become a real force to be reckoned with IMO

[astr]

For all you working on 4BD2T's, there is now the FSM for this engine available on MattF's site: Master Portal - forums.bauchan.org/Downloads

A while back in this thread, there was a discussion regarding the Altitude Compensation Aneroid and the turbo boost compensator. This manual has illustrations of both in the fuel injection section and may clear up some of the controversy. Also, for those interested in clever and inovative ways of doing things, check out how Isuzu uses the altitude compensating aneroid to limit fueling under high coolant temp conditions to help prevent destroying your engine.

[iroc86]

Nice work, astr. This is awesome!

[Dieseltim]

Ok, the first of the kits are now ready!!!


The basic kits include 1 adapter plate w/bolts, 1 pilot bushing, and 1 clutch disk.

Don't forget the first 10 to send back a write-up with pics will get $50 back.

I will try to get some pics of the whole thing bolted together in the next few days.


Dieseltim
770-712-8644

[ozwallaby]

And the price is?

[Dieseltim]

In respect for the forum rules and so as not to make anyone mad by advertising prices. I have not included it in any of my postings. Plz pm me and I will be happy to tell you all the details.Dieseltim

[astr]

Originally Posted by ozwallaby

And the price is?

I talked to Dieseltim and he told me the kits are $750 and includes the machine work needed to modify the Isuzu 5speed bellhousing. If you chose to have someone else modify your bellhousing then they are knocking $100 off the kit for the machine work. The kit includes the pilot bearing, the clutch disk and the adapter plate for $650.

Sound like a pretty good deal to me. Wish my wife wasn't insisting on an automatic.

[LC_Hamma]

Is that 1/2" alum plate? I'd use 3/4" min. steel plate for all the havoc between. That will be too much stress on the alum & it will eventually fail. Think about how much wt. you are sandwiching together. Are those 6 - 7/16" fine threaded countersunk bolts? Not enough clamping fasteners & too much mat'l. is removed for those bolt heads - you'll soon see stress cracks there first. Look at any SM plate adaptor & compare it to your design. JMO & I'm just an armchair enjuneer

[Dieseltim]

The plate is 6065 t651 Aircraft quality alum. and all of the bolts are 1/2 coarse threaded bolts. I went with the 1/2" thick so that the input shaft and the pilot bearing have the proper ingaugement, if you use anything thicker you will not be into the pilot bearing far enough. I decided that 1/2 was thicker than the bell housing, so the bellhousing would most likely fail before the adapter plate.

For those interested here is a few more pics.

Dieseltim

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by Dieseltim

The plate is 6065 t651 Aircraft quality alum. and all of the bolts are 1/2 coarse threaded bolts. I went with the 1/2" thick so that the input shaft and the pilot bearing have the proper ingaugement, if you use anything thicker you will not be into the pilot bearing far enough. I decided that 1/2 was thicker than the bell housing, so the bellhousing would most likely fail before the adapter plate.

For those interested here is a few more pics.

Dieseltim

Could you do a steel plate option for people who want something heavier duty? I can imagine some people needing to use mounting arrangements which place quite high bending moments on the bellhousing.
A steel plate will flex 1/3 of what aluminium does, but it will also weigh 3x as much.

[jeffsclan]

Nice, I wondered what was happening with your adapter. Seems like you needed to use a Dodge NV4500, Is that right ?

[Dieseltim]

You do have to have an NV4500 to use this kit, it can be Dodge or Gm but it will have to have an input shaft for a Dodge because they are about 1" longer than the Gm input shaft. If you have a Gm NV4500 then all you have to do is change out the input and you can use this adatper kit.Dieseltim