[Dougal]

Originally Posted by 1103.9TD

Here's mine, in a Landy 110, I'd be most interested in a super-strong selectable auto...........

[/IMG]
[/IMG]

Tell me more about that water-air intercooler you've got there.

[1103.9TD]

G'day Dougal,
I got it installed a few months ago, it has made a big diference to the performance of the standard 4BD1T. Runs through a Brown Davis water pump, to a heat exchanger/radiator in front of the engine radiator, but still behind the standard grill. The intercooler remains cool to touch, even after a decent workout. At this stage I have not adjusted the fuel or boost. The engine was running slightly 'lean' of best performance prior to fitting, ie blowing no black smoke even at full throttle. The boost is now going to a maximum of 11.4 psi, the drop of 1-2 psi being normal. Intake temperature has dropped from just under 100 deg c to less than 20 deg c under similar conditions.
The vehicle has a noticeable increase in torque, is able to attain a higher speed more quickly, maintain it longer up hills, and has an improvement in economy if driven sensibly, which is rarely!.

I'm still undecided on adjusting boost and fuel. More info on WTA intercooler look here, http://www.are.com.au/index.htm , but be warned, the initial price Richard quoted me blew out, and once it was finished, he wasn't keen to even think about doing another. If you're any good at alluminium welding, he'd keenly supply parts......

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by 1103.9TD

G'day Dougal,
I got it installed a few months ago, it has made a big diference to the performance of the standard 4BD1T. Runs through a Brown Davis water pump, to a heat exchanger/radiator in front of the engine radiator, but still behind the standard grill. The intercooler remains cool to touch, even after a decent workout. At this stage I have not adjusted the fuel or boost. The engine was running slightly 'lean' of best performance prior to fitting, ie blowing no black smoke even at full throttle. The boost is now going to a maximum of 11.4 psi, the drop of 1-2 psi being normal. Intake temperature has dropped from just under 100 deg c to less than 20 deg c under similar conditions.
The vehicle has a noticeable increase in torque, is able to attain a higher speed more quickly, maintain it longer up hills, and has an improvement in economy if driven sensibly, which is rarely!.

I'm still undecided on adjusting boost and fuel. More info on WTA intercooler look here, http://www.are.com.au/index.htm , but be warned, the initial price Richard quoted me blew out, and once it was finished, he wasn't keen to even think about doing another. If you're any good at alluminium welding, he'd keenly supply parts......

Thanks for the info.
I've run a water/air intercooler before, but the heat exchanger I made didn't have enough surface area. Even with 2.5m of 3/8" copper tubing it could only drop charge temps by 15 deg at full boost (130 deg to 115 deg).
I have a subaru air/water intercooler pump and an old cabin heater radiator mounted behind the grill.

I picked up an XSpower water/air intercooler a few months back. It's rather large and I've only just worked out where to put it, all the piping still needs to be done. I'm up to my elbows in a gearbox swap at the moment, cleaning and painting the engine while I've got it out.

[rtarh2o]

Ok, I am one step closer to my conversion. I have an engine (almost here anyway) The owner says it is a 94 with 208,000 miles. It sat up about 3 years, he went out to try to start it before listing it and it started right up. He said it smoked a bit but he is thinking that might be old diesel, any thoughts on this? I am thinking I will just go ahead and tear the thing down and check it out, I have seen complete gasket sets on ebay for about $175? What about the piston/liner kits any good sources on those or should I just re-ring it if it is within spec? What else do I need to know, I noticed somewhere that there is a tool for removing the liners? Any help is appreciated. By the way, this is going into my 97 FZJ80. I am about to order the Isuzu diesel Swapper adapter, 700r4 transmission, and a Marks adapter to the transfer case unless someone can talk me into a better way, otherwise I will let everyone know how it goes.
Rusty
97 FZJ80
78 FJ40

[astr]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

Ok, I am one step closer to my conversion. I have an engine (almost here anyway) The owner says it is a 94 with 208,000 miles. It sat up about 3 years, he went out to try to start it before listing it and it started right up. He said it smoked a bit but he is thinking that might be old diesel, any thoughts on this? I am thinking I will just go ahead and tear the thing down and check it out, I have seen complete gasket sets on ebay for about $175? What about the piston/liner kits any good sources on those or should I just re-ring it if it is within spec? What else do I need to know, I noticed somewhere that there is a tool for removing the liners? Any help is appreciated. By the way, this is going into my 97 FZJ80. I am about to order the Isuzu diesel Swapper adapter, 700r4 transmission, and a Marks adapter to the transfer case unless someone can talk me into a better way, otherwise I will let everyone know how it goes.
Rusty
97 FZJ80
78 FJ40

I pesonally wouldn't tear the engine down unless there is a specific reason to do so. I f it can be run, get it warmed up and check your oil pressure then check the compression. This will give you a good indication of the condition of the bearings and cylinders.

If your need parts: Tom's Truck Center - genuine ISUZU parts (http://www.isuzutruckparts.com/), Parts Supply Company for aftermarket parts (http://www.parts-supply.com/) Gaskets 4 Less for cheap gasket sets $100 for complete gasket set for 4BD1T (http://www.gaskets4less.com/servlet/StoreFront)

When you get your engine, see if you can get the intercooler and hoses that were part of the installation in the NPR. Try also to get the fuel filters and the electric motor setup that shuts the engine down. This will save you some bucks down the road.

Good luck.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

Ok, I am one step closer to my conversion. I have an engine (almost here anyway) The owner says it is a 94 with 208,000 miles. It sat up about 3 years, he went out to try to start it before listing it and it started right up. He said it smoked a bit but he is thinking that might be old diesel, any thoughts on this? I am thinking I will just go ahead and tear the thing down and check it out, I have seen complete gasket sets on ebay for about $175? What about the piston/liner kits any good sources on those or should I just re-ring it if it is within spec? What else do I need to know, I noticed somewhere that there is a tool for removing the liners? Any help is appreciated. By the way, this is going into my 97 FZJ80. I am about to order the Isuzu diesel Swapper adapter, 700r4 transmission, and a Marks adapter to the transfer case unless someone can talk me into a better way, otherwise I will let everyone know how it goes.
Rusty
97 FZJ80
78 FJ40

"Old diesel" will not make an engine smoke. The oil it's made from is already several million years old. However if the engine has only been run at low load and not warmed up fully it can smoke until warmed up and the leftover carbon burnt out.

Use only genuine pistons and rings in these engines. The liners are available cheaper aftermarket and are identical IMO. Aftermarket pistons appear identical but my bus mechanic friends tell me they don't last (I"m running some, I'll let you know).
Aftermarket rings and gaskets are absolute crap, do not stray from genuine Isuzu for these.

Check out my comments in the "4BD1T reliability" thread on 4btswaps.com I have some experience in this matter.

I have made up a liner tool before that worked well, I can email you a PDF of the drawing. I would refine the design a little before making another one, but I don't have time to do that for another couple of weeks.
My tool is a profiled plate, it uses a large piece of pipe, 12mm threaded rod, a block of wood and some nuts to pull the liner out.

[PurpleFJ62]

how does that electric motor work. When you cut 12V to it, it shuts? Is this uasually called the fuel shutoff solenoid?

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by PurpleFJ62

how does that electric motor work. When you cut 12V to it, it shuts? Is this uasually called the fuel shutoff solenoid?

Yes.
In my engine there are two solenoids, cold start enrichment and fuel shutoff.

[PurpleFJ62]

never herd of the cold start one before. How does it work? I am not to scared of basic wiring, where are you getting current for these items?

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by PurpleFJ62

never herd of the cold start one before. How does it work? I am not to scared of basic wiring, where are you getting current for these items?

It's a simple setup, two solenoids pushing/pulling two cables.
Connect up earth and 12v power, signal comes from the key (ignition) and is simply on or off.
The fuel enrichment solenoid is pulsed (cable pulls, then releases a lever on the fuel pump), the fuel stop cable is pushed.

Turn key to start, engine cranks and fires.
Turning key back to off (or ACC) removes power from the solenoids, fuel stop cable is pulled and engine stops.

[PurpleFJ62]

I love the simplicity in the system. So if you can install car stereos you can wire in a mech diesel?

I know air in the fuel system in a diesel is a big problem, why does this not happan with the fuel shutoff solenoid? It seems that when you shut it off there would be some air on the injection pump side of door? This must not be the case, just thinking out loud.

[rtarh2o]

[QUOTE=PurpleFJ62;2311483]I love the simplicity in the system. So if you can install car stereos you can wire in a mech diesel?

I am hoping this is true, I can rebuild engines, paint and body work, figure most everything out but electricals are magical to me, I can however wire a car stereo so I hope this is correct! I would love to hear from everyone who has actually done this conversion to hear what I need to do since I am about to take the plunge!
Rusty
97 FZJ80
78 FJ40

[PurpleFJ62]

rtarh2o- what vehicle will you be converting? Your 80 series, how is that 1fz-fe motor? I know 80's are very heavy, but I herd those motors were very stong and durable. Might be a good upgrade for my 4cyl jeep.

[rtarh2o]

Originally Posted by PurpleFJ62

rtarh2o- what vehicle will you be converting? Your 80 series, how is that 1fz-fe motor? I know 80's are very heavy, but I herd those motors were very stong and durable. Might be a good upgrade for my 4cyl jeep.

I am going to put the 4BD2T in a 97 FZJ80 that I just bought for the swap. I sold my 94 about a year ago in search of better mileage and bought a Volvo wagon, long story short, I miss the FJ80. I love the Volvo, especially the 27 mpg, but there is only so much you can do with it, plus it embarrasses my 14 year old son. The current engine has 130,000 miles and is in great shape if anyone is interested, I am just trying to make it something I can drive all the time without having to fill it up so often. I am hoping the 4BD2T will be plenty of power, being a turbo I am sure there are alot of easy tweaks I can do.
I will keep everyone posted on how the swap is coming
Rusty
97 FZJ80

[68raisin]

wiring solenoids for mechanical diesels is the easiest part of the swap IMO

Does anybody know how the adapters are coming along from Bram?

[rtarh2o]

Ok, I am getting conflicting information about the 4BD2T engine I just purchased. Isuzu Diesel Swappers says it is direct injected but I have read several posts saying it is indirect injected. Anyone know for sure?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

[PurpleFJ62]

not shure if this was already covered, this thread is very long. Maby one of the heads of mud could make a sticky listing the KNOWN pieces required for a conversion. Something containing specs and dimensions.

To the question, what kind of radiator configuration does the isuzu require? I have a small dribble starting to form on my botton tank, I love upgrading things whenever I get the chance. A nice aluminum radiator would really be cool in the front of my cruiser, but if I could not use it in the future with a diesel I would not be so egar to make such an investment.

thanks,

[rtarh2o]

[quote=Dougal;2311265]"Old diesel" will not make an engine smoke. The oil it's made from is already several million years old. However if the engine has only been run at low load and not warmed up fully it can smoke until warmed up and the leftover carbon burnt out.

Use only genuine pistons and rings in these engines. The liners are available cheaper aftermarket and are identical IMO. Aftermarket pistons appear identical but my bus mechanic friends tell me they don't last (I"m running some, I'll let you know).
Aftermarket rings and gaskets are absolute crap, do not stray from genuine Isuzu for these.

Check out my comments in the "4BD1T reliability" thread on 4btswaps.com I have some experience in this matter.

Ok, I checked your comments on the 4BD1T reliability thread. I just checked with http://www.parts-supply.com/ and they have what seems to be good deal on what they call and engine overhaul kit. About $1,500 for pistons, rings liners, gaskets, bearings, seals, pretty much everything you need. I asked him if it was Isuzu or aftermarket and he said most of the parts are Isuzu in that kit becuase there aren't many aftermarkets for those engines. I asked him about the questionalble quality of the aftermarket parts and basically his answer was that it depends upon the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts, there are good and bad. I guess my question is, is this the place you got parts from? It would be nice to get everything in one package like that and be done with it. Also what about the head, again my engine has 208,000 miles on it, I guess I will rebuild it while it is off along with the oil and water pumps, I understand they are rebuildable? Anyone done this?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

[astr]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

Ok, I am getting conflicting information about the 4BD2T engine I just purchased. Isuzu Diesel Swappers says it is direct injected but I have read several posts saying it is indirect injected. Anyone know for sure?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

The primary difference between the 4BD1T and the 4BD2T is that the 4BD2T is indirect injected whereas the 4BD1T is direct injected.

Here is a pic of a 4BD2T head. Two of the precombustion chamber inserts are missing on the left two cylinders. (Precombustion chamber = IDI)

Personally, I wouldn't be too concerned about DI or IDI.

[rtarh2o]

I am not really concerned about whether it is IDI or DI except for the fact that I am interested in converting to WVO somewhere down the road and I have heard the IDI is better. I am not sure if this is true or not because I know the VW TDI works well. I really would like to do a one tank conversion, anyone familiar with that? It is just interesting that the guy at isuzudieselswapper told me they were both direct injection?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

Ok, I checked your comments on the 4BD1T reliability thread. I just checked with http://www.parts-supply.com/ and they have what seems to be good deal on what they call and engine overhaul kit. About $1,500 for pistons, rings liners, gaskets, bearings, seals, pretty much everything you need. I asked him if it was Isuzu or aftermarket and he said most of the parts are Isuzu in that kit becuase there aren't many aftermarkets for those engines. I asked him about the questionalble quality of the aftermarket parts and basically his answer was that it depends upon the manufacturer of the aftermarket parts, there are good and bad. I guess my question is, is this the place you got parts from? It would be nice to get everything in one package like that and be done with it. Also what about the head, again my engine has 208,000 miles on it, I guess I will rebuild it while it is off along with the oil and water pumps, I understand they are rebuildable? Anyone done this?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

I'm in New Zealand, the aftermarket parts I used and had issues with were from the countries biggest seller of aftermarket engine parts.

If they're genuine Isuzu parts, then it'll be written all over the packaging. I get my Isuzu parts from the Isuzu dealerships.

To my knowledge every part of this engine is available aftermarket, you can even buy complete copies of the whole engine (infact the whole NPR truck) out of china if you have the contacts.

Here're the rough prices I paid or was quoted(in $NZ, $US was approx 2/3 that).
Full genuine gasket set $NZ300 incl steel headgasket
Aftermarket gaset set $NZ300 has fibre headgasket
4 cylinder rebuild kits (matched piston, ring, liner) $NZ1600
Genuine piston rings (4) $NZ200
Aftermarket pistons (4) $NZ300
Genuine Big End bearing shells (4 sets) $NZ32

Just to reinforce what I said in the 4BTswaps thread. These are the parts that I would never again stray from genuine on.
Piston/ring/liner kits.
Gasket sets.
Oil seals (included in the factory gasket set).

[rtarh2o]

I will check and see which parts in the rebuild kit are Isuzu. Also, they said they had rebuild kits for the water and oil pumps, didn't ask the price but typically those items aren't expensive enough to warrant rebuilding. Any idea on new pumps?
Rusty
97 FZJ80

[astr]

Just today I received a complete gasket set for my 4BD1T from gaskets4less. It cost me $104.90 including shipping. It was made in Taiwan and appears to be quite complete. The head gasket is steel, acutally four or five layers of steel - certainly not what I would consider a cheap gasket. In addition to the gaskets, front and rear crankshaft seal, valve stem seals, and a bunch of other stuff that I haven't yet identified was included.

Will the gaskets last? Only time will tell. I'll post some pictures of the set in the next few days and as I reassemble the engine I'll post my impressions of the gasket set.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by astr

Just today I received a complete gasket set for my 4BD1T from gaskets4less. It cost me $104.90 including shipping. It was made in Taiwan and appears to be quite complete. The head gasket is steel, acutally four or five layers of steel - certainly not what I would consider a cheap gasket. In addition to the gaskets, front and rear crankshaft seal, valve stem seals, and a bunch of other stuff that I haven't yet identified was included.

Will the gaskets last? Only time will tell. I'll post some pictures of the set in the next few days and as I reassemble the engine I'll post my impressions of the gasket set.

What did you get for a rocker cover gasket?
The factory one is shaped to fit and looks right. The aftermarket kit I had was simply a long piece of oring rubber. I was not impressed.

[astr]

The valve cover gasket is a formed rubber-like gasket. It is molded with tabs that fit the notches in the valve cover to hold it in place.

Based upon your comments concerning the quality of aftermarket parts, I will inspect the gaskets cafefully. At this point, I have not even verified that all of the gaskets are all the correct ones. The only ones that I have inspected close and personal were the head gasket and the valve cover gasket. I haven't compared them to the old ones yet as I can't find the old ones. I know I put them somewhere safe!!!

I'll take some pictures and post them probably next week.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by astr

The valve cover gasket is a formed rubber-like gasket. It is molded with tabs that fit the notches in the valve cover to hold it in place.

Based upon your comments concerning the quality of aftermarket parts, I will inspect the gaskets cafefully. At this point, I have not even verified that all of the gaskets are all the correct ones. The only ones that I have inspected close and personal were the head gasket and the valve cover gasket. I haven't compared them to the old ones yet as I can't find the old ones. I know I put them somewhere safe!!!

I'll take some pictures and post them probably next week.

It sounds like the aftermarket gasket set you've got is far ahead in quality of the one I got. Possibly even identical to the genuine article.
If the rocker cover and head gasket check out that well then I wouldn't be concerned about the rest of the set.

[crushers]

Originally Posted by bram

Andy: Yeah, Im with you there. That would be the best possible situation. even if I needed to machine a small extension to grab the pilot bearing and the crank it would still be the easiest path. I have been operating under the assumption that the H55F input shaft would not be long enough. The only way to settle this is the measure all the parts and figure it out.
.

another option would be the B series or HZ H55F since they have longer imput shafts... especially since most F and H series H55F H42 trannys have a gadzillion miles on them and are usually in need or close to needing a rebuild...

[crushers]

okay, after reading this thread this is what i am getting out of it...correct me where i am wrong.
the 4BD1T is one tough little engine that puts out roughly 136 hp... correct?
the 4BD1T is good for about 300,000 miles.
the 4BD2T has head issues... forget that BTDT.
you need an adapter to any toyota/gm tranny
you need an adapter from the gm tranny to the toyota t/case...correct?
you fuel milage "should" be around 30 mpg.
the 4BD1T requires a lift to clear the oil pan.
what about rad inlet and out let and core size. is the stock large enough for proper cooling?
mounts are different.
exhaust is on the opposite side.
you can pick these engines up used for about $4000 at the high end.

now if you go with a 1HZ you get 135 hp, almost a straight bolt up, they come with either auto or manual. minor changes required to make them fit. you get 30 mpg. they are quiet, you can turbo them of excellent power and reliability at lease 500,000km if not much more depending on driving style and maintainence (change out the BEB of course).

so my question is:
other than the idea of being different what is the advantage of all the work involved in putting the 4BD1T into a Land Cruiser vs an engine that was designed to go into it?

in the end the cost is going to be about the same and the resale value of a Isuzu engined Land Cruiser will be less than the Toyota engined cruiser.

just curious.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by crushers

so my question is:
other than the idea of being different what is the advantage of all the work involved in putting the 4BD1T into a Land Cruiser vs an engine that was designed to go into it?

in the end the cost is going to be about the same and the resale value of a Isuzu engined Land Cruiser will be less than the Toyota engined cruiser.

just curious.

The 4BD1T was available new in the markets being discussed, which makes it a whole lot easier to get hold of. If 1HZ's and 1HD's were commonly available it'd be an easy choice to make. Interestingly even over here where toyota engines are commonplace, many people have pulled them and replaced with Isuzu engines.

The 1HZ is indirect injection making it less efficient which means it uses more fuel to do the same job. Toyota don't seem to publish BSFC curves for these engines but it would tell a lot. If you think you can get 30mpg from a 1HZ (I have yet to meet someone who could) then you'll get more from the Isuzu.

There are some occurances of a 4BD2 cracking heads, yet by toyota standards even those engines heads are bullet proof.
The 4B's are factory turbo, factory fitted oil cooler, factory piston oil spray and will do 500,000km easily under 15psi boost. Toyota heads crack without turbos.

Cooling is not a problem. You replace a petrol with a similar size diesel and your radiator size can drop dramatically.

If the 1HZ does have 135 horse power, then they're smaller horses than Isuzu uses. The 1HZ powered 70 series cruiser I've driven was very lethargic.

[crushers]

so the engines in this thread are used but the idea is to offer a kit to install brand new engines, what kind of cost are we talking here? and the 4BD1T is availabe as a crate motor still, correct?
after re-reading the thread it seems the 4BD1T is 121 hp and the 4BD2T is 136 hp but cracks heads. according to your statements it seems the 4BD2T (There are also an alarming number of new 4BD2T heads on Ebay, if there's that much demand I'd be steering clear.) is a poor choice of engine due to this problem. (i have yet to see any cracked 1HZ,1HDT heads in Canada but then we have not had these engines here for more than 2 years (other than in the mines and after talking with Brian at ENS they have not seen any cracked heads there either)). in Oz the report back is the 1HZ is cracking heads AFTER installation of a turbo (which leads to a whole different list of questions there)
in actuall fuel milage reports coming back comparing the 3B(indirect injection) with the 13BT (direct injection) the 13BT is getting worse milage by on average 5 mpg. the 2H (indirect injection) compared to the 12HT (direct injection) the same results are being reported. the 1HZ and the HDT are reporting close to the same milage returns, high 20s to very low 30s. (you need to meet more poeple i guess)
it seems the direct injection returns worse fuel milage but much better power and this does not seem to jive with your findings about the direct injection being better on fuel.
i never heard of "smaller horses" can you explain how one rated hp can be smaller than another one rated hp?
i do agree a NA horse power engine compared to a turbo'd hp enigne of the same rating does seem slower. i.e. a 1HZ 135 hp compared to a 13BT 135 hp. the 13BT is MUCH faster. seat of the pants is night and day difference.
now, after re-reading the tread again it seems NO lift is needed for the 4BD1T which is a good considering most don't want a lift just to clear the oil pan but then it seems that in other posts it does need a lift...which is correct does this engine need a lift to clear or not?
why would Isuzu go from, according to you, a direct injected engine to a indirect injected engine in the second version (4BD2T)? the idirect is noisier, harder on fuel and less power but the 4BD2T is rated at more hp than the 1st generation 4BD, or am i missing something here?

once again i am not arguing but trying to get my head around the advantage of doing this swap over a tried and true and easier Toyota engine swap...

finally, have you actually completed one of these swaps or is most of the info you have posted book knowledge?