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Diesel Tech and 24 volts Systems BJ/HJ diesels, other diesel conversions (ie: Isuzu, Hino, etc) and Importation questions.




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Old 12-06-06, 09:44 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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bj60 engine mounts

Are there any other sources for engine mounts other than Toyota? I was quoted around $130 for one side, and $160 for the other side (Canadian Dollars). I have an 84 BJ60 with the 3B.

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Old 12-06-06, 10:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.raddcruisers.ca/1024.htm - 12361-59035 for 19.50$... not so bad !

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Old 12-06-06, 01:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sweet! I can live with that!
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Old 12-06-06, 01:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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:( Looks like that listing is only for the 85 and up style mount.
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Old 12-06-06, 02:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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:( Looks like that listing is only for the 85 and up style mount.
>8411

before november 1984.

It's OK earl, I already order it. It fit on my ex-BJ60 1983.

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Old 12-06-06, 03:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Oops! Thanks!
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Old 12-09-06, 07:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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earl,

Whats wrong with your mounts? If you do have them and the rubber has come loose from the mounting plate there is a thread that explains what one person did to repair them. He did a excelent write up on it in detail and to this day the repair holds.
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Old 12-11-06, 10:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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earl,

Whats wrong with your mounts? If you do have them and the rubber has come loose from the mounting plate there is a thread that explains what one person did to repair them. He did a excelent write up on it in detail and to this day the repair holds.
Link somewhere ? Wich forum ? Tell us more please.

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Old 12-18-06, 02:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Link somewhere ? Wich forum ? Tell us more please.
It's probably one of my stories. Toyota's prices for these mounts is simply ridiculous.

Back in '98 I had motor mounts on which the rubber had separated from the metal. After seing how much the dealer wanted for new mounts, I posted my problem on the DTLC list and my buddy Shaun Wilkinson told me he repaired his using JB Weld Epoxy, so I tried it and repaired mine successfully, so much so in fact that after 8 years it is still holding.

So I got some JB Weld at Crappy Tire and after fixing two mounts ran out of the stuff so I used another brand of high strength epoxy (I try to get the 4,500 PSI type, always bring some from the US as it is very hard to find in Canada) and it worked just as well.

Basically you have to rough the metal real good (not a trace of rust can remain!!!, score it with a rough sanding disk, and cut a grid into the rubber with a hacksaw (1/4 inch deep every 1/4 inch or so) to increase the contact area of the epoxy, then you glue it together and let it cure for at least 24 hours, then you apply several coats of high temp primer and paint to prevent rust and you reinstall.

Another thing, the rubber needs to be completely degreased. I used lacquer thinner.

HTH...

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Old 12-18-06, 02:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Merci

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Old 12-18-06, 02:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I always be in the same issue .. only the Toyota motor mounts can handle de torque power on my rig .. but not really much time .. thought 1 -2 years ... here in Panamá are pretty expensive around 112 USD ..

I search several times in the internet some poly or heavy duty options without luck ..

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 12-18-06, 11:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I always be in the same issue .. only the Toyota motor mounts can handle de torque power on my rig .. but not really much time .. thought 1 -2 years ... here in Panamá are pretty expensive around 112 USD ..

I search several times in the internet some poly or heavy duty options without luck ..
Are you saying there are other motor mount manufacturers? Where are your mounts failing? Are you experiencing shearing in the rubber or loss of bonding to metal?

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Old 12-19-06, 02:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Are you saying there are other motor mount manufacturers? Where are your mounts failing? Are you experiencing shearing in the rubber or loss of bonding to metal?
There are plenty of aftermarket mounts if you can find them.
Nothing wrong with the quality Ive been using. In oz we pay about $35 for the fronts and $50 for the rear gearbox mount.
They are probably made in Taiwan like most of the aftermarket parts available in oz

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Old 12-19-06, 06:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There are plenty of aftermarket mounts if you can find them.

This is the problem here in North America. Toyota is the only place to find 11-84< 3B motor mount…

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Old 12-19-06, 07:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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This is the problem here in North America. Toyota is the only place to find 11-84< 3B motor mount…
You could mail order them from Don Kyatts but the postage might be a killer at $20AUD per kg
Im not sure if the BJ60 would interchange with anything else as we dont have a BJ60 except for Kon's

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Old 12-19-06, 10:33 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I always be in the same issue .. only the Toyota motor mounts can handle de torque power on my rig .. but not really much time .. thought 1 -2 years ... here in Panamá are pretty expensive around 112 USD ..
Why not chain down that side? The rubber will still work to isolate the vibration, however will not lift.

hth's

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Old 12-19-06, 02:17 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Are you saying there are other motor mount manufacturers? Where are your mounts failing? Are you experiencing shearing in the rubber or loss of bonding to metal?
Yeap here in Panamá we have plenti of options .. cheap .. pretty cheap, around 18 USD made in Jap .. but nothing can handle the power ..

If the Toyota's are medium .. the aftermaket ones cheapest only long no more than one trip hahahahah

When I broke the Toyota's always loss bonding to metal .. and the cheapes ones the rubber ..

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Why not chain down that side? The rubber will still work to isolate the vibration, however will not lift.

hth's

gb
chain down . ? how . ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 12-19-06, 07:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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When I broke the Toyota's always loss bonding to metal .. and the cheapes ones the rubber ..
Use my epoxy repair method for the Toyota Mount, works great and holds well, probably because it is in the least moving part of the mount (presumably the central part of the rubber would move too mauch for epoxy to be effective)

All it will cost you is time, a sanding disc grinder (to clean up and roughen up the metal surface fior increased epoxy grip), a hacksaw (for increasing the surface area of the rubber for good bonding to epoxy), some lacquer thinner to degrease the rubber and metal, a small epoxy tube set of the highest PSI you can find, a bit of high temp primer and anticorrosion paint.

Try it, it works!

Chris

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Old 12-20-06, 09:15 AM   #19 (permalink)
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nice tip dude .. I will do with some olds ones that I keep ( broke all ) in my spare box to try .. and keep as spare.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 12-20-06, 10:41 AM   #20 (permalink)
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chain down . ? how . ?
Hi Tapage

Basically, you use the engine frame mount to attach to, on either side of the engine motor mount. You can drill some holes and bolt the chain/strap over top of the engine mount. A loose (slightly) wrap leaves some movement for vibration, but will stop it from lifting (and the fan hitting the shroud). As a trail fix a few years ago I wrapped mine on the BJ60 with a 1" ratchet strap, and ended up leaving it on till the 13BT went in. I removed the strap and new rubbers went on, however due to the weight of the BJ60, torque of the 13BT, I anticpate strapping down the left side at some point.

A heavy vehicle that works in the lower gears a lot will pull the engine mount apart as the torque tries to lift the engine.

As Chris mentiones, fix one of your mounts, but then strap or chain it down too...

I would guess the way you use your vehicle combined with the weight, it will pull apart again at some point if there is no strap.

hth's

gb
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