anyone interested in a report of a 13BT manifold and turbo onto a 70 series 3B?

crushers · 12-03-06, 10:01 AM

if anyone wants it i will post it up...

Diescipel · 12-03-06, 10:08 AM

pourquoi pas? Add to the "Turbo Position" thread?

B

crushers · 12-03-06, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diescipel

pourquoi pas? Add to the "Turbo Position" thread?

B

??? Add to the "Turbo Position" thread? ???
i haven't seen this one yet... got a link?

brownbear · 12-03-06, 11:06 PM

write it up.

here's the thread mentrioned above. Up to you, new or old. But putting it in that thread will definately make it the fullest turbo thread.

Turbo Position

its in the faq if you lose it again.

hobiesbestfriend · 12-04-06, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

??? Add to the "Turbo Position" thread? ???
i haven't seen this one yet... got a link?

Kinda funny that you are the second post in that thread. From a way back though.

crushers · 12-04-06, 11:00 AM

yah, it was a while ago, i didn't remember till i opened the link...
hummm...

toynut · 12-05-06, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

if anyone wants it i will post it up...

how much would this cost to do ?

crushers · 12-05-06, 08:08 AM

i am not sure,
this is on a RHD 70 series and there have been a couple complications but the truck is down at the muffler shop now so i should have the write up ready for posting tonight...

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:28 PM

First remove the air box, the cross over pipe and the power steering reservoir. The reservoir will be relocated out of the way of the turbo.

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:32 PM

Remove the vacuum canister, exhaust manifold and down pipe. On this particular truck the 2 ½” exhaust system was already installed so the flex pipe will be reused. The vacuum canister will be reused so do not discard.

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:37 PM

Now bring out the new toys.

A 13BT manifold from Mot (you can also get these from www.G&Scruiserparts.com or Dave at Japan4X4)

The new adapter (CT26 to Garrett turbo)(thanks Brown Bear for the lead) from the States…

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:39 PM

The adapter bolted to the manifold and the turbo installed to the adapter…

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:43 PM

Install the pyrometer fitting into the manifold before installing the turbo so you can remove all the metal filings.
Make sure you install the gaskets both top and bottom of the adapter.
When you install the turbo make sure you align the oil pressure fitting to the top of the turbo and the compressor tube about 5 degrees above level to clear the tappet cover.

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:48 PM

Although the 13BT manifold clears the oil filter, you won’t be able to change your filter once the turbo is completed.
You can use the oil filter adapter housing from a CDM 3B to relocate the filter downward. This is easy but messy; make sure you have a catch pan underneath the truck.

crushers · 12-05-06, 02:58 PM

Now starts the fun,
Install the brass fittings to the turbo. Because of the hood clearances on the 70 series it is a good idea to keep everything as low as you can. I ran a 90-degree fitting to the top and then a 2” extension to clear the turbine housing.
The 5/8” drain is installed with an over long hose. Remember the oil return is gravity fed so no sharp 90-degree fittings in that section. It must be smooth flowing.
I increased the size of the vacuum return port to the oil filter adapter to allow for more oil flow to return.
I also tapped into the vacuum pump feed port to also feed the turbo. This really ends up looking like an Octopus contraption…
You have to rethread the brass fitting for the oil pressure line to the vacuum pump...

crushers · 12-05-06, 03:02 PM

First a test fit on the bench to get the line length correct.

Then installed on the block and finally tied into the vacuum pump…

brownbear · 12-05-06, 04:14 PM

Just curious... Why not just go into the oil galley with a fitting? I used the forward oil galley plug and it provided excellent oil flow.

Also how come on this one you never went into the oil pan with the return? You did that on almost all your other turbo installs.

I like the install, looks clean.

I never thought of using internal wrenching head bolts to hold the adapter on. But it looks good. I used studs for both. After wards I had to trim the studs to length.

The shop who sold me the adapter said you could use hi temp rtv between the turbo and adapater, as well the adapter to manifold. He said it would seal good and thats how they were doing it in his shop...

So I will let you know if mine leaks exhaust

crushers · 12-05-06, 04:14 PM

The water lines have to be routed closer to the tappet cover. i ended up running one below the other which cleared the turbo nicely...

brownbear · 12-05-06, 04:21 PM

not to hijack with other pics..

but here is my alternate oil source/return.. just for comparison.

crushers · 12-05-06, 04:27 PM

Now comes the first setback, the waste gate activator is facing away from the turbo housing which is normal. The problem is with the 1” adaptor between the custom turbo and the 13BT manifold the 1984 clutch housing is blocking the activator. We need to reverse the activator rod so it faces towards the turbo and relocate the waste gate to in front of turbo housing. This will clear the clutch booster by about 2 mm, the turbo housing by about 2 mm, the custom actuator housing mount by the same and the oil pressure line by 6 mm. A tight fit to say the least.
On some of the later 3B equipped vehicles form Japan they have a different clutch set-up…