Goat Transplant #1

Mountain Goat · 08-01-06, 10:52 PM

So I had this huge post typed up that detailed a whole bunch of stuff about my project. Then the server decided I wasn't logged in anymore and I lost it all. I'm not going to retype the whole thing so here is the summary.

12H-T swap into '87 USA spec FJ-60, California model. Donor vehicle was a '89 JDM HJ-61. Engine has 85k miles and good compression.

What I've started on so far is figuring out the mounting for two A/C compressors. The first a York for on-board air. THe second is the comp from my 2F, chosen because of availability in the US. The alternator, starter, and other electrical goodies have to come from Australia or be rebuilt from 24V parts. I also reused the A/C comp mount (cut from the right side motor mount) and tensioner from the 2F.

For those that are curious, this is what I have so far. I hope that many people find this info useful and can benefit from my blundering.

Mountain Goat · 08-01-06, 10:56 PM

Another detail shot.

roscoFJ73 · 08-01-06, 11:33 PM

Great ,I love a engine swap post. With 87k the engine should last for decades

IMO you would be better off with a purpose built compressor. This is mainly because I dont like engine bay clutter

I presume it will fit

You maybe able to use 12v parts off a canuck 12v HJ60.

Keep it coming

Mountain Goat · 08-01-06, 11:36 PM

Yeah, I hope it will fit also.

I have a feeling that the outside A/C will be pretty close to the fender and could tap the sheet metal if I stomp on the pedal. We'll see...

roscoFJ73 · 08-02-06, 12:29 AM

I was looking at some pics in my files and it will be close. More likely too low than too wide,but still it may fit.
Im not sure if these will help

crushers · 08-02-06, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain Goat

Another detail shot.

may i suggest another support down to the block. that is a LOT of weight hanging off the original compresser mount.

also when i type up a huge detailed post i print it up in word and then copy over the exact reason you stated. works for me...

cheers

Mountain Goat · 08-02-06, 09:37 AM

Thanks guys.

Another support would be a good idea. I don't have all the details worked out yet. I'll have to wait until I receive the alternator which mounts under the A?C comps. The alt and starter are on the slow boat from Australia.

Tapage · 08-03-06, 02:25 PM

Autralia is so far from us .

keep us posted !

Mountain Goat · 10-13-06, 05:43 PM

After a much grease monkey action and a near FUBAR, I pulled the engine last night. That makes the last major piece to be removed unless the fuel tank needs a serious cleaning.

For those that don't know, going in will be a 12H-T from G&S Cruiserparts, a shiny new H55, and rebuilt t-case.

Nothing to show right now - only a gutted Cruiser. I'll post pics when I've made noteworthy progress.

hks3sgte · 10-15-06, 05:40 PM

This is exactly what I am planning. Thanks for posting your info. BTW... you're lucky!

Rig of Mortis · 10-15-06, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

You maybe able to use 12v parts off a canuck 12v HJ60.

My understanding is that all CDN HJ60s were 24V, it was the BJ60s that came as 12V.

Looks like a great project, keep up the energy!

Mountain Goat · 10-17-06, 04:54 PM

In the end I found my 12V parts in Oz. It was a long wait to ship by sea, but worth it.

hks3sgte · 10-18-06, 05:41 PM

So What have you thought up for engine mounts?

Tapage · 10-23-06, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rig of Mortis

My understanding is that all CDN HJ60s were 24V, it was the BJ60s that came as 12V.

Looks like a great project, keep up the energy!

my 2H is 12V ..

Mountain Goat · 10-23-06, 04:58 PM

I got donor engine mounts from G&S Cruiserparts. It turns out that the placement is quite a bit different than the 2F. I have cut off the 2F mounts and willhave to test fit the engine to determine placement of the 12H-T mounts. Kind of a PITA, but the only way to be sure.

Mountain Goat · 10-23-06, 05:03 PM

Looks like my super-duper 2 A/C compressor setup isn't going to work. To make it fit I moved the alternator mount down a couple of inches. When my alt finally arrived from Oz and I put it on I realized that it would be trying to occupy the same space as the PS gear. No worky.

I restored everything to factory configuration and the alt still won't fit. The alt is from a 2H and the vacuum pump hits the turbo inlet duct (the rubber part) on my 12H-T. So I have to buy another smaller alt and go back to the original plan of powering the York compressor with a winch motor.

Oh well...

FJota · 10-23-06, 06:58 PM

Sorry to hear that. I had hopes of doing the same to mine. You score high points for the effort.

Mountain Goat · 10-27-06, 11:02 AM

This just in...

The engine and tranny were successfully test fit for the purpose of locating the front motor mounts. The engine/tranny have been removed again and mounts have been welded to the frame. They might even be in the right places.

Now it's time to rebuild the t-case onto my new H55 and put things back together.

Still looking into options for my alternator. Finding a 12V 12H-T alt is a bit of a challenge.

I have some pics but haven't had time to get them sized and posted. Will soon.

One day soon my beautiful bastard child will be running again.

70sguy · 10-27-06, 11:06 AM

If you have any doubts about the position of the engine, just set the front bib with rad and shroud on the body mounts/frame and see how the fan lines up in the shroud...but you probably already did that right.

OILERSrule · 10-27-06, 11:36 AM

Hay people just trying this out for the first time to see if I got it figured out

Mountain Goat · 10-27-06, 11:37 AM

Thanks Sheldon,

Yeah, did that. It's just my pessimism combined with my total lack of understanding of what I'm doing.

Seriously though, I don't think I'll have too much trouble. If the mounts are a little off I can enlarge the holes a little. The tranny crossmember offers a little adjustment room as well.

Actually, this is a good spot to plug G&S.

For those that don't know, Greg and Sheldon provided my 12H-T and various goodies to facilitate my swap. These guys are not only really great people, they have also been a tremendous resource for my project and other's. If you are considering an engine conversion or just need diesel parts, give these guys a call.

ChuckB · 10-27-06, 07:15 PM

That is a really cool swap. I'm thinking about moving to Oregon and buying another 60 or a 40 and would like run on bio. Just wondering how easy you think it will be to get the title changed? I'm assuming if you don't live in one of the below areas then smog is not an issue??

This is all I found...

Vehicles that must be tested

In Portland:
All 1975 and newer diesel powered vehicles with a manufacturer's gross weight rating of 8,500 pounds or less (This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks) registered within the DEQ Portland area boundaries.

In Medford:

All cars, trucks, vans, motor homes and buses powered by gasoline, alternative fuels (such as propane) or hybrids 20 years old or less and registered within the DEQ Medford area boundaries
All diesel powered vehicles 20 years old or less with a manufacturer's gross weight rating of 8,500 pounds or less (This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks) registered within the DEQ Medford area boundaries. This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks.

Mountain Goat · 10-27-06, 08:38 PM

My area is smog exempt, fortunately. However one of the advantages of bio is the lower emissions. Getting a bio powered vehicle to pass is often not an issue.

I have a couple of progress shots to post. Not much, just engine mounts.

I just started on the t-case rebuild.

Mountain Goat · 10-27-06, 09:04 PM

OK, one more.

This is the condition of the engine bay with 2F removed.

70sguy · 10-28-06, 02:29 AM

Looking good, Welds look great, stronger than from the factory I'll bet.
Maybe GB and I will have to stop in next week and check out the progress
you around thurs?

Mountain Goat · 10-28-06, 10:45 PM

Sheldon,

Come on down! I can make arrangements to be here when you come through.

PM me with details. I'll make it happen.

phatwheels · 10-29-06, 01:37 AM

Alternator idea: not being firmiliar with the 12H-T I might be way off but on the BJ-60 and HJ-60 the alternator and vacum pump are combined. I was looking at making up mounts and using a regular 100 amp alt for a Toyota gas truck from Napa and a vacum pump from a Ford diesel in the junk yard.

Mountain Goat · 10-29-06, 10:18 PM

I've thought about a few different combinations myself. Is the Ford pump a separate belt driven or electric pump?

I looked for electric pumps. All that I could find were very expensive.

Tapage · 10-30-06, 09:27 AM

all electric vaccum pumps that I seen in Summit are around 300 USD .. so in my future I see and Hyundai alternator ( 110 amps ) with integrated vacc pump in rear as same as you see in Toyota stuff ..

Mountain Goat · 10-31-06, 05:15 PM

T-case rebuild is progressing well. I currently have gears and shafts all over my work area. It stinks to hell of gear oil and solvent. I might be ready to drop in the engine and other stuff by this weekend.