[trw]

I'm in need of some info on parts and performance upgrades for a 66' Mustang GT convertible. Anyone know any good boards like this or have any info or links?

Story is: my dad drove this car, his first new car, off the lot in san diego in 66'. Had it ever since, but it has been in need of some serious repair for a very long time. 289 v8 was rebuilt and back when I was in high school, many moons ago, I had it running sweet. Issues snowballed though and it was parked again. Since 84' the car has been parked with the exception of the one summer I spent with it.

Now the sob part. Dad's loosing his sight. Few surgeries gone not so good, detatched retinas, floaters, cataracs developing and needs more surgery. He's always put getting the car done off for other needs, putting 4 kids through college, one through law school, big house for mom, etc... I'd like to get the car back on the road so he can drive it for at least one more summer if the eyes don't work out, but hopefully more.

Need to do; carb is trash so want to replace 2 bbl with 4 and new intake. dist is trashed so want to replace with electronic ignition. already have new gas tank and lines to be installed, brakes are all new, rear axel was rebuilt with new bearings. will need new tranny or more likely have the existing rebuilt, new top, and complete steering linkage overhaul. tires of course.

My brothers are going to meet me up there for a week at the end of may to get all this done. Shouldn't be all that bad if I can get the parts ahead of time. Dad thinks we're meeting up there to go fish the boundary waters so we can surprise him with the effort.

Now back to fishing for advice or links for parts sources.

thanks
tom

[tonkota]

You had better post up some pics. Plenty of car guys here too. I don't know of a forum for them though. Good Luck.

[SCJO06]

the best place for parts is through forums like this, im not too sure of which boards specialize in older stangs but try some of these, they can at least point you in the right direction www.stangnet.com, www.mustangworld.com (think thats it), www.svtperformance.com

[trw]

Thanks for the links. here are some pics my brother took a couple of weeks ago. Can see its in good shape overall. Only bad rust is in the rear fender wells and the rear floorboards from the roof leaking. It has the pony interior and the only really bad parts is the door panels.

tom

[Cruisin'Carolina]

I used to be a certifiable Mustang nut.....but I bought all of mine restored already.......

And I hate to tell you this, but that is not a GT. Still, any old stang, especially a convertible, is a lot of fun...

If you explain what you hope to accomplish in a week, it might help. New quarters, paint, trunk metal, rear floorpans, etc is a lot to do....

Try National Parts Depot, you can find a lot of what you need there, not sure about the pony (Technical term "Deluxe") door panels, they were going to come out with those, but the standard were all that as available a few years back. Rebuild that C-code 2 barrel (1st clue of non-GT status), put a rebuilt distributer with Petronix and coil in, do all plugs and wires, battery.

If you have skills, you can rebuild that C4 auto as well.

But no offense, if you are going to do all of that in a week you might have to call Chip Foose at Overhaulin!

Whatever you do, you and your bros are to be commended for what you are trying to do for your dad.

[Texican]

I was really into 65-66 'Stangs, prior to getting into Cruisers, had a 65 K code coupe, 2 A Code 65 Fastbacks, a 66 GT coupe, and a 66 A code conv.
This is not a GT, but the Pony interior is a very desirable option. I would kit the 2 bbl and keep it stock.
Decipher the data plate, verify it is still equipped like it says, then keep it that way, the stock 289 has plenty of zip even with the 2 bbl.....Dallas Mustang Parts is or was a great source.....have not bought anything in 15 yrs from them. PM me if I can help.

Butch

[CruisinGA]

Good friend here has been DD/restoring a '66 stang hardtop over the last year.

Got a lot of parts from Mustangs Unlimited in Lawrenceville GA.

His rebuild 289 w/ 2bbl will smoke the tires. Its fun.

[trw]

Originally Posted by Cruisin'Carolina

I used to be a certifiable Mustang nut.....but I bought all of mine restored already.......

And I hate to tell you this, but that is not a GT. Still, any old stang, especially a convertible, is a lot of fun...

If you explain what you hope to accomplish in a week, it might help. New quarters, paint, trunk metal, rear floorpans, etc is a lot to do....

Try National Parts Depot, you can find a lot of what you need there, not sure about the pony (Technical term "Deluxe") door panels, they were going to come out with those, but the standard were all that as available a few years back. Rebuild that C-code 2 barrel (1st clue of non-GT status), put a rebuilt distributer with Petronix and coil in, do all plugs and wires, battery.

If you have skills, you can rebuild that C4 auto as well.

But no offense, if you are going to do all of that in a week you might have to call Chip Foose at Overhaulin!

Whatever you do, you and your bros are to be commended for what you are trying to do for your dad.

I don't think you have the same idea as I have here. No need for Chip as this is not a week to do a custom restoration. Just want to get it back on the road so he can do the sunday stroll thing. No body work as its not that bad.

From what I got off the vin and with a lot of searching yrs ago, the car was a special order for the dealer (some big shot in San Diego) from which it was bought. Has all the GT goods (had a 4 barrel before the motor was rebuilt and I'm not sure why it was tossed for the 2), posi rear end, rally pack front end, but was badged as a standard convertible. I could be wrong though.

I've built many a motor and tranny, so skill is not the issue as much as time, so a rebuilt tranny is more likely. But if I could find a rebuild kit I'd consider it. I was told that the green dot C4 is different than the standard C4, true?

Thanks for the info. Do you know if there is a drop-in aftermarket dist with magnetic pick-ups available? I know with old mopars you can very easily switch a newer dist in place of the old points type with little hassle. Will this work here?

tom

[BB]

For the distributor, you can get a Pertronix kit that eliminates the points. Running one in my 67 Fairlane with a 289 and am very happy with it. I think it was about $70.

I second the recommendation for National Parts Depot, I have been happy with the stuff I have received from them.

Good luck!

Brian

[mabrodis]

Good timing on this thread. My dad had a 64-1/2 (I guess) Mustang that he gave my sister, original baby blue...car needs a bit of love, but runs great, drives great (brakes grab a bit), factory 4bbl, factory air, pretty nice car actually. Just needs some love and I'd like to throw the disc-brake conversion on it for my sister, making it alot more suited for daily driving and safer. So glad for all these links others have posted.

My brother has a '67 Mustang, total hack job, it was originally a 6cyl car, when he bought it someone had put in a 351W (same as a 289 but with higher deck height), had 4-bolt front rims (from the 6cyl) and 5-bolt rear rims (someone put in a V8 rear axle). He lowered it some, welded in some frame tighteners, put on swaybars front and rear and damn will that thing handle! It's actually shocking good at handling. The 351 is a bit much of engine but who says you don't want to smoke your tires through 3rd gear.. Oh, check the driveshaft and u-joints on that, my brother's old driveshaft (age unknown) let go at just over 100mph, driveshaft put huge dents under the floorboard, ripped exhaust off, yanked so hard sideways it broke the bellhousing!! Very scary, so check them u-joints!!

[Cruisin'Carolina]

Originally Posted by trw

From what I got off the vin and with a lot of searching yrs ago, the car was a special order for the dealer (some big shot in San Diego) from which it was bought. Has all the GT goods (had a 4 barrel before the motor was rebuilt and I'm not sure why it was tossed for the 2), posi rear end, rally pack front end, but was badged as a standard convertible. I could be wrong though.

tom

Glad you aren't trying to do a full resto in a week!!!

VIN on a 66 will tell you little more than where/when built, trans, which engine, color codes, and trim level....

A 66GT has:

Grill mounted fog lamps (with trim ring)
front fender badges
rocker panel stripes
deleted rocker panel moldings (those chrome things that look like fake vents)
GT gas cap
Rocker panel with twin trumpet exhaust holes, (and twin trumpets sticking out)
Rally pack gauge cluster on steering column
DISC BRAKES on front, small silver circle on brake pedal

So sorry again aboutbreaking the news about that car's Non-GT status, I can decode the vin for you if you want.....Still a great example with the deluxe interior, full console, etc....should be a lot of fun for your dad!

Here is what a GT looks like (there are many more ways than the above for a purist to tell, as in suspension parts, rear floorpans, even to how the holes are punched in the radiator support for the fog lamp wiring).....

[BB]

Mabrodis and others,

Disc brake swaps for Mustangs/Cougars/Fairlanes, etc. are pretty easy. Get spindles/rotors/calipers/MC/proportioning valve, etc. from any 75-80 Granada or Mercury Monarch, they esentially bolt right up to the earlier cars. Discs are 10 or 11-inch diameter. Change the outer tie rod end to the Granada/Fairmont unit, and off you go. A non-power brake master cylinder for an early 70's Ford pickup with the drum/disc setup will work also I am told. Brakes are soooo much better after this swap. Lots of resources on the 'net for this.

One word of caution - early Ford (pre 73 Ithink) OEM rally and steel wheels won't fit on the Granada setup; the wheel center openings are too small. Aftermarket and repro stuff usually clears.

Brian

[mabrodis]

Originally Posted by BB

Mabrodis and others,

Disc brake swaps for Mustangs/Cougars/Fairlanes, etc. are pretty easy. Get spindles/rotors/calipers/MC/proportioning valve, etc. from any 75-80 Granada or Mercury Monarch, they esentially bolt right up to the earlier cars. Discs are 10 or 11-inch diameter. Change the outer tie rod end to the Granada/Fairmont unit, and off you go. A non-power brake master cylinder for an early 70's Ford pickup with the drum/disc setup will work also I am told. Brakes are soooo much better after this swap. Lots of resources on the 'net for this.

One word of caution - early Ford (pre 73 Ithink) OEM rally and steel wheels won't fit on the Granada setup; the wheel center openings are too small. Aftermarket and repro stuff usually clears.

Brian

Hmm...I was thinking of just going with a kit from like National Depot or wherever.. I think the kit for everything for the front discs is about $1000...I'm sure junkyard searches would be cheaper, but once factoring in time not sure...thanks for the info though!

[Cruisin'Carolina]

Originally Posted by BB

Brakes are soooo much better after this swap. Lots of resources on the 'net for this.

Brian

Agreed.....might be a bit much for what the original poster wants to accomplish in a week.....

But there is a HUGE difference between how my 66GT braked and my 65 4 drum set-up....I drove both as my DD in nasty stop and go interstate commutes...

My knee hurt for a month until I got used to the drum set up....and one leg's muscle was bigger than the other!!! (Which was evened out later when I got the 66GT (4 spd w/ heavy clutch)!

[trw]

I'm really interested and confused with the history of the car. I always had lots of issues getting parts for it because some were standard and some were GT. Vin indicated a Hi-Po motor and it had the air cleaner to match, but the air cleaner could have been changed by the dealer. It has front discs and dual exhaust and I didn't think any of the standards had that. I've been told its very difficult to tell the original GTs because dealers would use shelf parts to make standards into GTs, but this seems like a dealer went reverse and made a GT look standard. I'm 1200 miles away from the vin so can't give it to you now, but in june I should have it. Thanks for the info, I'll figure it out eventually.

Those aren't the original wheels in the picture, my dad pulled the originals in fear of them being stolen.

[Cruisin'Carolina]

There are many more ways to tell, PM me and I'd be happy to help.

The thing that made Mustangs so popular was that you could order them almost any way you wanted, and even then the dealer could make changes as well.....

Air cleaners or stickers won't tell you much these days when you can order anything. GTs were available with different motors, not all were the hi-po (K code) and if it was, you'd have another badge in addition to the GT badges....

Anyone could order discs or duals, that is why it is so hard to tell sometimes, even some books have it wrong! A local MCA judge and or club can help out, but really that is not what matters unless you are doing a concours resto or are trying to sell it as a GT.

When I sold mine shortly after winning 3rd place at the 2002 Grand Nationals Mustang Show, I had people come out of the wood work looking at it, and I even had to take up the rear seat to show the reinforced floorpans to some people. Some guys pulled out micrometers to measure the diameter of both front and rear sway bars, and measured the holes that were factory punched (not drilled, an easy way to spot a fake) for the fog lamps....

Happy to help if I can, Mustangs are fun!

[patpend2000]

If you want to swap over to a 4 barrel, I've had really good luck with the edelbrock (Carter) 4 barrel carbs. not the most performance orientated but fairly easy to tune and keep in tune, top that off w/an edelbrock intake and air cleaner to make it a simple package.

For ignition, Pertronix works well, or buy a new electronic dist from one of the major suppliers and put the original on the shelf for a latter restoration.

Kelly

[trw]

You've been a big help. Like I said, I always had a lot of problems getting the right parts due to these differences. This should help in the future when the full resto is done. I don't see this particular vehicle leaving the family as long as I'm around so there isn't a selling issue, more curiosity than anything. Too many childhood memories of sliding partway across the hood (never could get past halfway) pretending it was the general lee with my brothers. This was the first car I crawled under and lead to my many automotive habits today. Always have been and still am a big mustang fan. I like the new one because of the throwback designs. So hopefully we can put it back on the road safely so dad can re-live some of his youth.

What do you know about rebuilding the steering components? That was what lead to me having to park it. If I remember it was the ball and socket in the power steering control valve that had an enormous amount of play in it. The part back then was close to $500 which was too much for my high school budget. I've found them now for close to $300, but have also seen a lot of rebuild kits for $45ish. The only catch is that they all have a warning attached indicating only experienced mechanics should do it. I've got a lot of experience in many realms of auto stuff, but would like to know if this is particularly difficult for some reason?

thanks again for all the info
tom

[BB]

For body/chassis stuff, the FSM is invaluable. My used copy purchased for $15 for my Fairlane has saved me hours of headaches. Reprints for the Mustang new are around $50 I think. Should help you with your steering issue.

Do you have a local Mustang club you could use as a resource? The local one here is pretty big. Lots of info there.

As far as options and build configurations for old Mustangs go, they cranked so many Mustangs out so fast that any number of things could end up on the car. They could not make them fast enough. I have heard stories of Ford executives ordering one-off examples with all the goodies on them, then these cars were sold off to the public after a couple of years when the exec moved on to the next new model. Special order cars were not uncommon. Dealers could sell and install factory speed parts, and with Ford heavily involved in racing at the time, this stuff was readily available and swapped in.

Unlike 'cruisers, these cars were not expected to last. Drive 'em hard and buy a new one every few years. Wish I hadn't passed on so many of these when they were like $500 not too long ago.

Brian

[trw]

My dad has a really old fsm that I used a lot in the past. Its in a binder now because the glue let go in the binding and the pages are all loose, but its still there. I'll let that be my guide and try the rebuild first.