[semlin]

Originally Posted by srplus

I realize that that is what many people do... I always look at who is on the list to the right and if they specifically have what I am searching for or are just in there because they have money to burn. I have found several relevant trade links for my targeted searches... I have looked at and bookmarked all of the ones that apply to the type of business that I am trying to promote.

I am the only one that is listing and providing Signage Appraisal Services that I know of.

right now I get allstate and a company called signalex when i google signage appraisal services. btw, looks like something bad happened at signalex

[Jman]

Not meaning to teakettle here, but I thought that barn doors always had the lower end of the support on the hinge side, as so:



The point is that the support should be on the diagonal that would tend to get smaller with sagging, if no support were there--it's more structurally sound.

[semlin]

Originally Posted by grrlscout89FJ62

I usually don't care for them, but these turned out gud.

I used a bag of steam-in-the-micro ones.

I rendered a couple slices of diced bacon in a skillet. Took the bacon out, browned a tenderloin I had rubbed with lemon zest, salt, pepper, coriander, and garlic powder in teh fat. Then added some apple juice.

Took the pr0k out when it was done, and put the bruskel sprouts in, plus more apple juice, and some of the rub. Topped it all with the bacon yummies.

I liked it, except there was too much salt in the rub.

i swore in the 4th grade never to eat another brussel sprout.

but for a brussel sprout cooked in bacon/pork tenderloin/apple sauce and garnished with bacon bits I might make an exception.

[srplus]

Originally Posted by semlin

nice job with the cross piece overlay the and I were debating adding that last night so I will have to show her your handywork.

I could just run a single oppositional cross piece on the inside of the door.

You want the braces on the inside and outside so that you can bolt thru the door battens... that way you will have far better support than if you just screw them on the outside... but for costs it is cheaper to only have an outside one... for appearance if you do that all screws should come from the inside of the door so you have no hardware that is exposed to the weather and will rust.

I learned the hard way about the brace being on both sides when I build some gates... it just works better and one additional brace per door is not going to add too much weight or cost to the project.

[Jman]

Originally Posted by srplus

You want the braces on the inside and outside so that you can bolt thru the door battens... that way you will have far better support than if you just screw them on the outside... but for costs it is cheaper to only have an outside one... for appearance if you do that all screws should come from the inside of the door so you have no hardware that is exposed to the weather and will rust.

I learned the hard way about the brace being on both sides when I build some gates... it just works better and one additional brace per door is not going to add too much weight or cost to the project.

Of course, the point is moot if he's backing it with plywood.

[sisukid1975]

greetings and salutations, fuckers.

[Jman]

Originally Posted by sisukid1975

greetings and salutations, fuckers.

Greetings.

Yooper bought a bike. What are you going to do to top that, fucker?

[sisukid1975]

Originally Posted by Jman

Greetings.

Yooper bought a bike. What are you going to do to top that, fucker?

Hows he gonna ride it when he's at wr0k all the time?

[semlin]

Originally Posted by Jman

Not meaning to teakettle here, but I thought that barn doors always had the lower end of the support on the hinge side, as so:



The point is that the support should be on the diagonal that would tend to get smaller with sagging, if no support were there--it's more structurally sound.

hmm, I thought you alternated diagonals on either side of the door.

there is a standard ranch gate design that goes the opposite way (couldn't find a picture but imagine the wood diagonal following the wire up high)




if you go with crossed diagonals you really only get one true diagonal support anyway unless you make the door super thick by lapping the cross pieces and doubling up the ledger thickness. I would definitely want the "through" piece to be oriented the correct way

[semlin]

BTW,

Originally Posted by Jman

Not meaning to teakettle here.

[srplus]

Originally Posted by Jman

Not meaning to teakettle here, but I thought that barn doors always had the lower end of the support on the hinge side, as so:



The point is that the support should be on the diagonal that would tend to get smaller with sagging, if no support were there--it's more structurally sound.

To continue the teakettle... around here the high end of the brace is on the hinge side so that the bottom of the door that is not supported on the hinges is supported by the diagonal brace. It is the same principle for signs if they are hanging.



See proper technique here (door for aquarium stand) 75 Gallon Aquarium Stand (pic won't link)


hinge side of this one should be on the left

[sisukid1975]

We're teakettling barn doors?

[srplus]

Originally Posted by Jman

Of course, the point is moot if he's backing it with plywood.

end of teakettle!

[Jman]

My point is that wood works much better under compression than tension, having the support running on the expanding diagonal is a much weaker design, with or without a support on the other side--fasteners can pull out under stress.

With the diagonal that has the high end on the non-hinge side, the diagonal piece supports the horizontal crosspiece like a shelf bracket, instead of "hanging" the lower crosspiece like a cable--much better use of wood.

Of course, many barn doors have an "X" support design, but you might not like that look.

[semlin]

Originally Posted by sisukid1975

We're teakettling barn doors?

not inane enough

[srplus]

Originally Posted by semlin

hmm, I thought you alternated diagonals on either side of the door.

there is a standard ranch gate design that goes the opposite way (couldn't find a picture but imagine the wood diagonal following the wire up high)




if you go with crossed diagonals you really only get one true diagonal support anyway unless you make the door super thick by lapping the cross pieces and doubling up the ledger thickness. I would definitely want the "through" piece to be oriented the correct way

Notice the diagonal wire support that the gate hangs from...

That is how you support weight at the other end of a structure... we need an engineer here to comfirm.

[stinkyfj60]

What the fuck?

[semlin]

Originally Posted by Jman

Of course, the point is moot if he's backing it with plywood.

nope.

the sliding doors will have a light steel frame with a rigid foam core sandwich sandwiched between two tongue in groove barn doors. They will be 3 3/4" wide but hopefully not too heavy

the regular doors are up for grabs. Maybe I will build a steel triangular frame that can be hidden by the tongue in groove, but I don't want them to be too heavy.

Originally Posted by srplus

end of teakettle!

hah

[Jman]

Originally Posted by srplus

Notice the diagonal wire support that the gate hangs from...

That is how you support weight at the other end of a structure... we need an engineer here to comfirm.

When you use wire, yes, a gate regulator like that is ideal. Not so much with wood. Tell me, when you build a shelf, do you support it from the top, or the bottom?

[srplus]

It works under the same principle for sign posts...





The blocking keeps the post from drooping in the second set and fasteners will pull out if attached the wrong way.

[Jman]

[Jman]

[Jman]

Originally Posted by srplus

It works under the same principle for sign posts...





The blocking keeps the post from drooping in the second set and fasteners will pull out if attached the wrong way.

You have been hoist by your own petard. Those two examples on the bottom right--I assume they are wood? Well, if you'll see, they say that using wood under compression is the right way, and wood under tension is the wrong way.

[srplus]

Originally Posted by Jman

When you use wire, yes, a gate regulator like that is ideal. Not so much with wood. Tell me, when you build a shelf, do you support it from the top, or the bottom?

See most recent teakettle... if the weight is on the outside edge it is better to suspend.

However most shelves can not be built like that or they lose space for storage.

[Jman]

See? This guy built the door on the right the wrong way. And it fell down.

[Jman]

Originally Posted by srplus

See most recent teakettle... if the weight is on the outside edge it is better to suspend.

However most shelves can not be built like that or they lose space for storage.

No, you can attach the supports to the side of the shelf, no loss of space. People don't do it though because the fasteners rip out and the shelf falls down.

[srplus]

Both ways will function well if done properly... however, we in the South do things a little differently.

Now Canukistan might be different.

[srplus]

Originally Posted by Jman

See? This guy built the door on the right the wrong way. And it fell down.

the door is perfect... it is the hinge that failed

[srplus]

Here you go!

[yooper]

Originally Posted by Jman

I has blue CRKT Rollock 2 delivered to my desk for under $20.

Originally Posted by Jman

One-handed opening is easy, one-handed closing not so much, but better that way than the other way 'round.

it takes some practice