waterproofing leather boots ?

[reffug]

Originally Posted by battle

In the past I used mink oil, but it takes a little time to apply.....Lately I've just been spraying them down with WD-40.....Good results and fast.

I'll be curious to see how that effects the leather.

WD-40 does contain petroleum products which would eat leather I would think.

[johnbill]

I use the same stuff to waterproof boots that I use to rewax "tin cloth" coats.

1 qt. raw linseed oil
2# beeswax
1/2c pine tar
a little turpentine to thin it out

Talk to a beekeeper and get his junky old wax. He'll prolly sell it to ya cheap and even if it has flowers and dead bees and stuff in, it works just fine. Pine tar you can get from a feed store or horse/farrier supply--still the best stuff around for dressing hooves. Steal a cheese grater from the lady and shred the beeswax, put it all in a bucket and find a way to heat it up without catching it on fire. Mix, cool, spread it on. Works like a charm.

[LandCruisers4Life]

Originally Posted by 450 DUDE

Whatcha guys using for waterproofing goop now a days?

I have never been happy with "Snow Seal" and those Nicwax products always seemed too expensive...

Thanks in advance,

ken

No such animal Ken, sorry. Go for the Gore-Tex lined boots. I wear leather steel toed boots at work and never had a pair of non-Gore-Tex boots stay dry for more than an hour on the back of a dive boat.

HH Brown Matterhorns are nice, as are the Danner Ft Lewis boots. 10" tall black or brown military grade boots with gore-tex / thinsulate. Nice boots.

[bigndn]

Originally Posted by johnbill

I use the same stuff to waterproof boots that I use to rewax "tin cloth" coats.

1 qt. raw linseed oil
2# beeswax
1/2c pine tar
a little turpentine to thin it out

Talk to a beekeeper and get his junky old wax. He'll prolly sell it to ya cheap and even if it has flowers and dead bees and stuff in, it works just fine. Pine tar you can get from a feed store or horse/farrier supply--still the best stuff around for dressing hooves. Steal a cheese grater from the lady and shred the beeswax, put it all in a bucket and find a way to heat it up without catching it on fire. Mix, cool, spread it on. Works like a charm.

Good recipe. Thanks for sharing. I've got some tin pants that need help.

[SunTzuMD]

Skidmore's

[Ted44]

Depends very much on the boot. Different leather tanning methods demand different treatment methods. Most manufacturers will give treatment guidelines.

Heat can be the death of a boot, be very careful about how hot and how often you heat them. Most newer boots are manufactured with heated adhesives. If you overheat the boot it will come apart. Staying below the boiling point of water is an accepted heat level for limited reasons, such as fit modification. Continuing to heat and reheat a boot will accelerate its demise. If your leather is cracked, you already f****d up. Keep the leather treated/conditioned.

Oils will soften the leather, as will products containing petroleum distillates. Examples of these are SnoSeal, and Nikwax Wterproofing Wax ( as opposed to Nikwax Aqueous wax). If you want softening, fine, but many boots are intended to have a level of stiffness to provide a level of support. Bedroom slippers are comfortable, but not in rugged terrain with 40lbs on your back.

I can go on and on...

FWIW

[reffug]

Taken from Limmer Boots website:

Basic Care:

*Ensuring maximum use: It has been said that more fine boots have been ruined through neglect than through use. Having made the investment of purchasing top quality hiking or backpacking boots, customers can ensure maximum life and superior performance from their boots by exercising proper care. Correct boot maintenance includes treating boots with a substance that conditions and waterproofs the leather.

* Softening leather: Limmer recommends the use of animal based preparations of a paste or grease nature to soften the leather on Standard, Midweight or Lightweight Limmer Boots only. (In some cases, natural liquid oils can saturate leather causing it to soften too much.) The stoutness of these Limmer boots makes softening leather, particularly during the break-in period, desirable. Only an extremely over zealous applicator could oversoften these Limmer products.

* Caring for Ultralights: For the 2.4 mm lighter weight leather of a Limmer Ultralight, there is a danger leather could stretch and lose its supportive structure. For this product, Limmer recommends the use of applications specially designed for Nubuk or suede leather.

* Caring for Walkers: In the case of the Limmer Walker, a soft creme polish combined with the occasional Limmer conditioning mentioned above is recommended.

* Using straight oils: The use of straight oils, such as neats foot or mink oil in liquid form is not recommended because it tends to oversaturate and oversoften leather. Use of these products, over time, will cause leather to deteriorate.

* Using wax or petroleum base products: These products are not recommended either even though they do provide waterproofing. As a living thing, leather has pores and these products can clog pores Clogging cuts down on a boot's ability to breathe. Over time, these products will stiffen the leather and, in this way, shorten its life span. Because they don't clog pores, natural animal oils don't dry out leather.

* Timing your protection efforts: When Limmer boots are new, don't immediately waterproof. Wait until you notice a loss of water repellency. When your boots are dry and clean, apply a modest layer of grease rubbing it in well. Store your boots in an area of moderate temperature and humidity. Stay away from extremes such as a hot dry attic or a damp basement.

* Storing your boots: Limmer recommends applying a layer of boot conditioner whenever boots are placed in storage with another application, perhaps, before you use them again. Limmer's own line of boot conditioner is a time tested combination of animal paste and waterproofing additives. It has repeatedly proven its ability to provide optimum results and contribute to the renowned longevity of Limmer products. Limmer also recommends the use of wooden shoe trees.

Special Care

* Dealing with heat: If your boots become completely saturated with water, for whatever reason, they should not be allowed to dry with any rapidity. When leather dries too quickly, it stiffens and has a tendency to crack. Exposure to excessive heat during the drying process can burn leather and cause severe, irrepairable damage. Too much heat can also reactivate the thermally activated adhesives used to attach sole to boot in which case soles can loosen or fall off.

* Drying your boots: Drying should be done at a moderate rate, away from heat. Once boots are saturated, stuff them with newspapers for the first day of drying. Change paper, frequently, to remove moisture and maintain shape.

* Treating your boots: Once they are dry, apply a moderate coat of Limmer Boot Conditioner which will also waterproof the leather. Include the area of stitching on the welt as well. If boots are new, however, the application of any grease must wait until the factory applied finish on the boots has worn off or the application will be ineffective.

* Treating the interior of your boots: When the wearer's perspiration is profuse, there may be a need to treat the interior of the boot. In such cases, an occasional very light application of Limmer's boot conditioner would prove valuable provided the person does not overapply it.

* Life expectancy: With proper care and conditioning, the life expectancy of a Limmer boot can be 10-15 years and some owners claim their boots have lasted up to 25 years. At least half the reason for such success is proper conditioning. Neglect or abuse of a Limmer product will cause the same incidence of failure as would afflict anything else that has been abused.


And those folks know how to construct some boots...............

[NorCalDoug]

Originally Posted by reffug

Taken from Limmer Boots website:

Basic Care:

...

And those folks know how to construct some boots...............

damn.



criff' notes?

[reffug]

Originally Posted by NorCalDoug

damn.



criff' notes?

dude I've seen you read longer posts just to find out how to cook a better chicken.

[Randy88FJ62]

I use snowseal. If you use it right it works. You have to heat the leather up first so it absorbs. They reccomend putting your boots in the oven but i thought that was overkill. I just lay them out on a hot day (I live in California.)