My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....

[flintknapper]

Done!

All that is needed now…is to mount it on the vehicle and spool on the new cable.





Total parts: (New cable, Lower housing kit, Motor shaft bearing, Main shaft seal, paint) just under $75.00

I doubt I will be around to get another 24 years of service out of this winch, but someone will.

I paid about $460.00 for this winch….(bought new in 1983), I’ll bet it would fetch more than $600.00 today. Not a bad investment.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Blue77FJ40

WOW. Incredible job, both on the rebuild and the detailed article. Thanks!

Any thoughts on drilling the main-shaft end to accept a bolt? There have been tales of the brake assembly flying off along with the ball bearings when the split ring lets go. Gigglepin sells a kit for this, already machined.

I looked into that mod. and agree its a good safety measure for those who use this winch to extreme ends (in terms of braking and shock loading the cam gears).

I haven't babied mine any...and it has never come off in 24 yrs.

If ever a cir-clip has come off, it was because it was improperly installed at the factory or by someone else. If you look at it closely, it is slightly rounded on one side...but flat on the other. The flat side needs to face away from the brake unit. It's a pretty stout piece.

Drilling and tapping the main-shaft can be done, but be forewarned: That shaft is harder than the 5th grade was for Mike Tyson. So, have a few drill bits handy and a really good tap.

Seriously, if I were that concerned about the brake unit coming apart, I'd rig up a aux. "disc brake" on one end like the Brit's do with their competition 8274's.

I do like Gigglepin's improved friction material (larger size), so I might order those someday.

My next mod. will be the 6hp motor swap.

[flintknapper]

Back on the Bronco.

Ready for some more abuse.

[Deny]

Nice Job!

I actually recently had my brake blow out the side, wrecking the needle bearing and the plate. I was thinking of rebuilding, but picked up a cheap winch that I could swap my good parts to (like my 24V motor). Anyway, any thoughts on what could cause that, like say no grease in the needle bearing? Also do you have any pics on the brake re-build? do you need speacial tools for that, or is it fairly strait forward?
Cheers,
Deny

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Deny

Nice Job!

I actually recently had my brake blow out the side, wrecking the needle bearing and the plate. I was thinking of rebuilding, but picked up a cheap winch that I could swap my good parts to (like my 24V motor). Anyway, any thoughts on what could cause that, like say no grease in the needle bearing? Also do you have any pics on the brake re-build? do you need speacial tools for that, or is it fairly strait forward?
Cheers,
Deny

If you're talking about it blowing out the "motor" side....then yes....the needle bearing would have to of seized. I put a liberal amount of grease in mine and also put twice the recommended amount of oil in the case.

All parts depend upon "splash" lubrication and that can only happen after the lube has "climbed" the main gear.

As for the brake, no special tools are required. I used a pair of long nosed vice grips to compress the spring and hold the two halves together as one unit before installing it back on the shaft. But, it can be done a number of different ways.

I did not document the rebuild...as it has already been covered by another person. But I can walk you through it (very simple) if decide to do yours.

I have pics. of the upper end that I didn't post if anyone needs to see them. My main objective here was to "add" to the information already available, so others might benefit from it.

I went a little deeper into my winch disassembly than some folks do, I also added a few mods. (fill and drain plugs, zerk fittings on drum support, slotted solenoid cover) and wanted to share those as well.

[SPM_Ltd]

I have a WARN 8274 rebuild that I have started to rebuild, however, I am having difficulty getting the brake assembly disassembled.

Is there a trick to getting the brake assembly apart?

Did you remove the brake axle from the housing (i.e., replacing the shaft seal)?

Any guidance/suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by SPM_Ltd

I have a WARN 8274 rebuild that I have started to rebuild, however, I am having difficulty getting the brake assembly disassembled.

Is there a trick to getting the brake assembly apart?

Did you remove the brake axle from the housing (i.e., replacing the shaft seal)?

Any guidance/suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve

The brake assembly should come apart pretty easily UNLESS you have a build up of rust on the shaft or around the two key-stocks.

Remove the cir-clip, use a piece of emery cloth to smooth and clean up the main-shaft. Spray the "key stocks" as best you can with penetrating oil.

DO NOT use anything to “pry” the brake assembly off (using the case as a support).

If necessary… a small 2 jaw puller behind the rear brake disc should make easy work of it. The brake system is spring loaded...so it’s already trying to come apart.

Warning: As the "outer" brake disc moves off the shaft you will have 21 (count 'em) steel balls fall out. Do not lose any of these.

As the brake assembly comes apart, note the relationship of the parts to one another (very simple and self explanatory).

I did remove the Brake/Main-shaft on my winch in order to get to the main-gear in the bottom of the case. But, as long the needle bearing is in good shape and your current main-shaft seal is not leaking (not likely it would be) then there is no reason to disassemble/remove the main-shaft. The brake system comes off independently, just so you’ll know.

This is the needle bearing that the end of the main-shaft fits into (motor side of case)




And…this is the bronze bushing and seal (brake side of case).



You can see it all reassembled (just as it would be when you take your brake off) if you go back to post #24 where I “bench tested”.

Let me know if you have other questions or need additional pics.


Flint

[REZARF]

Bravo!

Great write up man!

Drew

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by REZARF

Bravo!

Great write up man!

Drew

Happy to help.

Lord knows...the guys here have helped me out in the past.

[SPM_Ltd]

Thanks for your comments.

I have not been able to remove the brake system from the shaft (apparently it is really stuck).

I was considering removing the brake system/shaft as an assembly and them removing the brake system from the shaft away from the Aluminum housing.

Does this seem possible?

When I attempted to remove the brake system/shaft as an assembly, it seemed to be butting up some resistance - my guess it is the shaft seal that is pressed into the housing.

The internal gear does not appear to be mechanically attached to the shaft (only attached thru the splines).

Perhaps I have being to careful and just need to apply a bit more force.

Appreciate your comments.

Steve

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by SPM_Ltd

Thanks for your comments.

I have not been able to remove the brake system from the shaft (apparently it is really stuck).

I was considering removing the brake system/shaft as an assembly and them removing the brake system from the shaft away from the Aluminum housing.

Does this seem possible?

When I attempted to remove the brake system/shaft as an assembly, it seemed to be butting up some resistance - my guess it is the shaft seal that is pressed into the housing.

The internal gear does not appear to be mechanically attached to the shaft (only attached thru the splines).

Perhaps I have being to careful and just need to apply a bit more force.

Appreciate your comments.

Steve

Steve...have you tried using a puller yet. The brakes disc's should come off without too much trouble.

You can certainly remove the brake system and shaft as one unit. That way you could put it in a press if needed...but it really shouldn't require that much force.

To remove the shaft you'll need to split the case, pull up on the lock-plate and use a brass drift punch to drive out the shaft. The splined cam gear that fits on the brake-shaft is larger than the bronze bushing in the case. So, in essence you are driving the lip seal and bronze bushing out along with the shaft and cam.

The whole assembly will then come out.

I'll post some pics in a bit.

[flintknapper]

This shows the lower end with brake-shaft, intermediate gear and main-gear.

Both the drum AND brake-shaft are held in place by the lock-plate.

Lock-Plate in down (locked) position:



In order to remove the either the drum or brake-shaft, you must pull up on it as pictured.

Lock-Plate in up (unlocked) position:




If you intend to remove the brake-shaft, use a brass drift punch against this surface only:



You will be driving out the lip seal, the bronze bushing and the brake-shaft all at one time.

IMO, there needs to be compelling reason to do this.

[mkaustin]

Flintknapper,

Great writeup! Just what I was looking for.

I just picked up an 8274 that is either 1978 or 1988 (Date Code: BF8, S/N: 79xxx). I'm going to be tearing it down like you did yours and I know that I will need new cables from the solenoids to the motor. The wire in my cables look good (no corrosion), but the insulation has been weathered quite badly.

Are the cables that you mentioned in your parts list, the cables from the solenoids to the motor?

I'd be interested in some pictures of the upper half. On mine the clutch knob shaft is frozen in place. Will removing the four screws around the clutch plate allow me to remove the clutch shaft and assembly?
Did you try to check the bearings in your motor? Do you know if he motor is rebuildable? (bearings/bushngs)

Last question. What did you use to paint the drum? I'm probably going to use wire rope on it at first, and I'd like to use something that will help prevent the wire from starting new rust points.

Thanks for any info.

[flintknapper]

MKAustin wrote:

I just picked up an 8274 that is either 1978 or 1988 (Date Code: BF8, S/N: 79xxx). I'm going to be tearing it down like you did yours and I know that I will need new cables from the solenoids to the motor. The wire in my cables look good (no corrosion), but the insulation has been weathered quite badly.

Are the cables that you mentioned in your parts list, the cables from the solenoids to the motor?

No, the cable I mentioned was simply new wire rope for the spool, however.. the electrical cables are still avialable. There are three, you will need one of each.

5-1/2".....Part # 6007
6-1/2".....Part # 6008
7-1/2".....Part # 6009

The cover for the wire at the motor end is called a "nipple" and is Part # 2090.

Here is a source for parts. (These folks are not fast, so be patient.)

Warn Authorized Parts and Service Center: warnserviceparts.com

I'd be interested in some pictures of the upper half. On mine the clutch knob shaft is frozen in place. Will removing the four screws around the clutch plate allow me to remove the clutch shaft and assembly?
Did you try to check the bearings in your motor? Do you know if he motor is rebuildable? (bearings/bushngs)

I'll see what pics I have available that I haven't already posted and place them here a little latter. Yes, removing the four screws will allow you to remove the clutch assembly. It has sealant around it, so you'll need to slowly pry it off. The shaft itself gets rusty... making it difficult to operate. Once cleaned and lubed...they work fine.

Be very careful not to drop the motor shaft gear into the bottom of the case (if you're not planning on splitting the case).

The bearing for the motor shaft is a 6203RS (double sealed), it's available anywhere, don't special order.

The bushing in the motor cap is replaceable, but most likely will be fine. Brushes are available, you'll just need to check yours for length. I wouldn't rebuild this motor if it needed anything other than brushes and bearings. You can buy a new motor off e-bay for about $100.00

Be advised, there are two types of motor shafts. One is splined and the other has a keyed shaft. If you buy a motor.. it will need to match your motor shaft gear (splined or keyed), OR...you can buy a splined motor shaft gear and mate it to a newer style motor. Also, there are other motors that will interchange (up to 6hp).

Last question. What did you use to paint the drum? I'm probably going to use wire rope on it at first, and I'd like to use something that will help prevent the wire from starting new rust points.

The black portion is Rustoleum Black Appliance Epoxy. I have used this for years on different items exposed to the weather. It is very tough. Wire rope and high tension loads...of course..will eventually take their toll, so nothing you use will be permanent.

Thanks for any info.

Happy to help.

[flintknapper]

Clutch mechanism assembled:




Clutch in “engaged” position:




Clutch in “disengaged” position:

[MrWwindow]

I've been watching this thread with great anticipation.
I've got a used 8274 on it's way, it looks to be in great shape. But Flinknapper made it an easy decision even if it is'nt I'll know what to do to get back to new.

Thanks Flintknapper for the write up.

James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

I've been watching this thread with great anticipation.
I've got a used 8274 on it's way, it looks to be in great shape. But Flinknapper made it an easy decision even if it is'nt I'll know what to do to get back to new.

Thanks Flintknapper for the write up.

James

I can assure you...there is nothing "scary" about refurbishing one of these.

If I can do it, anyone can.


Don't hesitate to ask questions, I am happy to help.


Flint.

[Cruiserdrew]

Outstanding thread Flint. I wish you had done this before I redid mine 2 years ago. It would have saved me a ton of effort/frustration and calls to Poser and Warn. Congrats.

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

This is one of the great rebuilding thread. You did an awesome job! I admire your skills, talent, attention to detail, and your time.

Originally posted by flintknapper
All of this for aesthetics of course. It serves NO purpose in terms of function.

My friend, yes it does serves a purpose and this is to prevent or minimize the corrosion on the mechanical parts that you just sandblasted, primed and painted. So it is not just for aesthetics look but for corrosion control too

[flintknapper]

Exploded Diagrams and part #'s

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...4_and_down.pdf


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...816_and_up.pdf

[mkaustin]

Flintknapper,

One last question.

Where did you get the stickers/decals to put back on the winch?
Those make it look like a brand new winch.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by mkaustin

Flintknapper,

One last question.

Where did you get the stickers/decals to put back on the winch?
Those make it look like a brand new winch.

Call or email “Stephanie” at Warn customer service and request a decal packet for an older model 8274. Warn Industries - Contact Us


The red “W” for the front of the solenoid cover is no longer available, but you can put the one from the packet on top of the cover as I did.

This is what you should receive after contacting her several more times to remind her (but be nice):

[4xJunkie]

Originally Posted by flintknappe