Work Lights

[latinoguy]

Is the light pattern the same for a flood light as it is for a Fog light? I found a pair of fog lights at my local auto parts store for $25 a set, in the size 3x5 that I am looking for. Hard to find floods locally in a 3x5 in. size. Currently getting everything I need to mount 2 work lights to the back of my roof rack for setting up etc. etc.

[Clutchee]

I may be wrong but Fog lights I have seen seem to have yellow lens.

A flood type light will have a clear lens that throws light in a wide pattern.


I would say that if the fogs have a clear lens they will work fine.


*heck for $25 say you can't go wrong

[latinoguy]

Then I may be good to go on these since they are clear lenses...and $25 including wiring harness....The only neg on my book are the plastic protectors....

[Tools R Us]

The point of a fog light is to light up the ground, not the fog, so their beam is low and narrow. A flood or work light is made to light up a large area, so their beam is full round, a flood.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

The point of a fog light is to light up the ground, not the fog, so their beam is low and narrow. A flood or work light is made to light up a large area, so their beam is full round, a flood.

I've always thought the point of fog lights were to illuminate a wide beam off to the sides


Since you can't really see straight ahead through thick fog, the lights keep you centered on the road by letting you know how close the sides are...

[REZARF]

If you search for Hella lights different beam patterns you can see that the work lights are really what I think you are after. Take a look here

I am looking at the Hella Matador, it is a great work light and has a switch on the light, and a handle so it can be easily adjusted for aiming at whatever you want to light up.

They also make a twin 55 watt work lamp that puts out LOTs of light These are the ones.

Hope it helps...

Rezarf <><

[latinoguy]

Well, it appears that a pair of substitute fog lights for work lights is not the best option afterall. The matador is a nice lamp, but would sit too tall on the rack...I'd like to keep a flush top mount so the lights do not get in the way of putting kayaks, surfboards, etc. etc. on the rack.

eBay Motors: TRACTOR BOB CAT EQUIPMENT MOWER WORK LIGHTS FLOOD****BM (item 230204415586 end time Dec-23-07 17:18:47 PST)

These are not bad for the price and fit the size bill...

[450 DUDE]

Im running the twin 55 Hella and am very pleased with the performance.
Its crazy bright and switchable 1or 2 lamps.

ken

[BiG BoB]

The links aren't working on my dodgy internet (luckily the forum is!), but I think I know the lights your talking about...

The round hella worklight with the handle to aim tends to break off at the mounting bracket on constantly rough roads, or from a tap from a low branch.

The twin lamp light works well, but I'd personally prefer haveing seperate lamps, incase it cops a tree branch - and also so I can aim them where needed rather than both in the same spot.

Seriously consider how much light you need, the less watts, the longer you can run the lights for without the engine on more is generally better for spotties, but for worklights go with the smallest you can cope with

Sean

[LandCruiserPhil]

If size and low wattage is important, consider a MR-16 20watt 36* lamp. They are available in a lot of different landscaping fixtures and they put out a lot of light with low wattage.

[Tools R Us]

Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER

I've always thought the point of fog lights were to illuminate a wide beam off to the sides


Since you can't really see straight ahead through thick fog, the lights keep you centered on the road by letting you know how close the sides are...

Your right, my post wasn't well worded. The term "fog light" is often abused, used as a catch all for any light added to a vehicle. But true fog lights should have a tightly controlled, narrow vertical, wide horizontal beam, looking like a stripe when shined on a wall. The idea is to light up the ground and not the junk in the air.

[REZARF]

Originally Posted by BiG BoB

The links aren't working on my dodgy internet (luckily the forum is!), but I think I know the lights your talking about...

The round hella worklight with the handle to aim tends to break off at the mounting bracket on constantly rough roads, or from a tap from a low branch.

The twin lamp light works well, but I'd personally prefer haveing seperate lamps, incase it cops a tree branch - and also so I can aim them where needed rather than both in the same spot.

Seriously consider how much light you need, the less watts, the longer you can run the lights for without the engine on more is generally better for spotties, but for worklights go with the smallest you can cope with

Sean

Thanks Sean, I haven't heard of anyone with any real experience with them. I like the easy adjust and switch at the lamp. Have you had one fail?

Rezarf <><

[latinoguy]

see pics for finished job.

bohemianjsr/Toyota Land Cruiser/Auxiliary Lighting - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

[BiG BoB]

They're pretty well protected in that position

Over the years I've had probably a dozen hella lights break off at the base, but my vehicles get seriously abused compared to what most people would do.

As an indication, I've had 3 vehicles snap chassis in the same period of time!

The switch on the back is kinda useful in some ways, but I tend to prefer a dash mounted switch, as I've seen jokers go round switching work lights on in pub carparks! My rear light(s) usually switch using a relay off of the revers light as well, as I tend to do a lot of "precision" reversing at night (lining up on drill rigs/holes) and its not appreciated reversing over an offsider!

A lot of campers who have swing away style spare wheels have a telescoping pole mounted behind the wheel, with a curly lead to the light. They higher you can get the light to set up camp the better spread you get and the less its in your eyes. Haveing a piece of pipe next to the light for the curly cord to curl back up into at the lower position stops it flapping around. I don't have any pictures, but I'll try draw it in MS Paint

Sean

Edit - I have too much time on my hands... attached is an MS Paint (not to scale!) diagram

[spressomon]

Originally Posted by BiG BoB

They're pretty well protected in that position

Over the years I've had probably a dozen hella lights break off at the base, but my vehicles get seriously abused compared to what most people would do.

As an indication, I've had 3 vehicles snap chassis in the same period of time!

The switch on the back is kinda useful in some ways, but I tend to prefer a dash mounted switch, as I've seen jokers go round switching work lights on in pub carparks! My rear light(s) usually switch using a relay off of the revers light as well, as I tend to do a lot of "precision" reversing at night (lining up on drill rigs/holes) and its not appreciated reversing over an offsider!

A lot of campers who have swing away style spare wheels have a telescoping pole mounted behind the wheel, with a curly lead to the light. They higher you can get the light to set up camp the better spread you get and the less its in your eyes. Haveing a piece of pipe next to the light for the curly cord to curl back up into at the lower position stops it flapping around. I don't have any pictures, but I'll try draw it in MS Paint

Sean

Please do!

[BiG BoB]

I have I'm slightly intoxicated, but basically the skinny pole goes back inside the fat one, and a screw holds it in place when its up.

The light at the top is set up to turn around for when the tyres swung out, and on a yoke to point it into the correct area.

The curly cord springs back into the pipe on the side as the skinny pipe telescopes back into the fat pipe to stop it flapping around.

As stated above, I'd have it wired to a relay off the reverse lamps, as well as switched on the dash for when setting up.

Sean

[sirenmoses]

That's kinda how our scene lights on fire trucks work, except they don't have a storage tube for the curly cord. Cell phone snap: