outhouse specs

[webelk6]

been kickin around the idea of building an outhouse for our property in W. Wi. Gettin a little tired of digging holes to put our bio-bags in.
1. How deep should the hole be?
2. Should the bottom be line with pea gravel etc.?
3. Why do they have 2 holers?
4. Does one or should you put lime, etc. every visit?

[frgtwn]

However, I am somewhat of an expert at outhouses, having built one, and used it religously for, well some time.


1. The best information can come from your county agricultural agent. You may discover that the county does not allow outhouses.

The depth is related to two things, the usage, and the soil conditions. I, for instance, welded two open ended 55 gallon drums together, sunk them in the ground, and deposited away.

2. Pea Gravel. Pee gravel?

( I just could not resist.) Again, it depends on the soil conditions.

3. For company. Or, to speed up the long lines.

4. This is, actually, a good question. It is variable, Sometimes the heat, and the flys are a problem, and a white powder dusting each deposit may be called for. Other times, or seasons, perhaps it may not be needed at all, or only occasionally.


A few thoughts:

There were tens of thousands of WPA toilets built during the depression, and some of the cast concrete bases are still sitting around, often with no stucture on top. They make a great start. Plop on a toilet seat, build your favorite building on it, put a crescent on the door, you're ready to go!

The TP can get damp in some climates. A large coffee can, with a plastic top works well.

A skylite is a welcome addition. I donated one to an uncle for his outhouse, and it was great.

Make sure you vent the hole. PVC or something straight out the roof. It makes a lot of difference. And, close the lid EVERYTIME. You will thank yourself the next time you enter.

I think that an outhouse should be built without a level or a square. The door needs to swing open by itself, or maybe close by itself. It is just part of the experience.

Come to think of it, some folks put on a self closing door. Pulleys, rope, a window weight or two and you get that reassuring slamming door sound when your business is done.

And do not, DO NOT buy new hinges for the door. They hafta squeek. Shop around if you must, but an outhouse door that doesn't squeek is hardly worth the trouble.


A two story outhouse can be problematic. There is one that I know of that actually works. Still, I would rather be on the second floor.

Books have been written on this subject. One of them that I skimmed was quite entertaining, and could be useful as well. The title escapes me.

By now, you must have guessed that I am somewhat passionate about my outhouse experience. You would be correct. There is nothing quite like sitting there with the door open, gazing contentedly across the back 40, and having the family dog stick his cold nose on your bare legs. Life is good!


Dale

[rusty_tlc]

This is, quite possiably, one of the best threads I hav eever read on MUD.

[FJ40_owner]

Originally Posted by frgtwn

However, I am somewhat of an expert at outhouses, having built one, and used it religously for, well some time.


1. The best information can come from your county agricultural agent. You may discover that the county does not allow outhouses.

The depth is related to two things, the usage, and the soil conditions. I, for instance, welded two open ended 55 gallon drums together, sunk them in the ground, and deposited away.

2. Pea Gravel. Pee gravel?

( I just could not resist.) Again, it depends on the soil conditions.

3. For company. Or, to speed up the long lines.

4. This is, actually, a good question. It is variable, Sometimes the heat, and the flys are a problem, and a white powder dusting each deposit may be called for. Other times, or seasons, perhaps it may not be needed at all, or only occasionally.


A few thoughts:

There were tens of thousands of WPA toilets built during the depression, and some of the cast concrete bases are still sitting around, often with no stucture on top. They make a great start. Plop on a toilet seat, build your favorite building on it, put a crescent on the door, you're ready to go!

The TP can get damp in some climates. A large coffee can, with a plastic top works well.

A skylite is a welcome addition. I donated one to an uncle for his outhouse, and it was great.

Make sure you vent the hole. PVC or something straight out the roof. It makes a lot of difference. And, close the lid EVERYTIME. You will thank yourself the next time you enter.

I think that an outhouse should be built without a level or a square. The door needs to swing open by itself, or maybe close by itself. It is just part of the experience.

Come to think of it, some folks put on a self closing door. Pulleys, rope, a window weight or two and you get that reassuring slamming door sound when your business is done.

And do not, DO NOT buy new hinges for the door. They hafta squeek. Shop around if you must, but an outhouse door that doesn't squeek is hardly worth the trouble.


A two story outhouse can be problematic. There is one that I know of that actually works. Still, I would rather be on the second floor.

Books have been written on this subject. One of them that I skimmed was quite entertaining, and could be useful as well. The title escapes me.

By now, you must have guessed that I am somewhat passionate about my outhouse experience. You would be correct. There is nothing quite like sitting there with the door open, gazing contentedly across the back 40, and having the family dog stick his cold nose on your bare legs. Life is good!


Dale

What city do you live in where that great experience may be had. Seems to me all of LA is "where the sewer meets the sea."

[crushr]

this may help. Good enough for ma bell:

[frgtwn]

What city do you live in where that great experience may be had. Seems to me all of LA is "where the sewer meets the sea. FJ40_owner

I do live in LA, in a little area called, well, Frogtown, and no, no outhouse experience here.

A third of my life in Oklahoma, where said structure was built- at my Dad's farm.

A third of my life as an Airforce brat- nine states.

I come from a long line of poor, ignorant farm folk. I miss the farm, but I have the other two covered.

Aunts and uncles on both sides would be so proud of their new indoor plumbing, but us guys would continue to use the outside facilities when we could.

Perhaps all this just reminds me of the freedoms I enjoyed back then. And if I ever get a chance, I'll build another one. And use it.



Dale

[2mbb]

I was out at the north rim of the grand canyon earlier this year (Tuweap campground) and they had composting outhouses where woodchips were added after each visit. I remember they had posted some explanation what it did, but I don't remember.

This article may have some useful information and references:

http://www.appalachiantrail.org/atf/...ices%20L-Q.pdf

[The Wizard]

Check this out. http://redrockstore.com/Catalog/inde...on=show_detail

[Spud]

Sunmar composting toilet.

Works incredibly well.

[Foreigner]

Dig the hole big enough, then top it with a concrete pad with a standard toilet flange mounted in it. Mount an old toilet on it, and just keep a bucket of water there to flush it (I assume there's no running water). You'll never smell a thing.

Lime kills the necessary bacteria that decomposes everything, so don't use it. If you dig the hole right, and seal it, you won't ever have to pump the thing out, or move it--the bacteria will keep everything under control. I have a book with the exact specs for hole size, but won't have access to it for another 3 weeks, as I am away from home.

Hope this helps!

[rusty_tlc]

Originally Posted by Spud

Sunmar composting toilet.

Works incredibly well.

Link to Sun - Mar

Nice units but no character, and no place for the wasps to nest.


Every outhouse needs a wasp nest.

[LX470Pilot]

Oh yeah, gotta have the wasp nest.

Nothing like doing the 'gotta-pee' shuffle from the tent to the outhouse in the middle of the night, disturbing the wasps with the banging of the door, and the only light is coming from a flashlight that just happens to be shining on your thigh (by this point you're tending to business) making for a perfect target.

At least with no flashlight, you've got the tactical advantage of darkness.

But yeah, gotta have the wasp nest....

SHEEEESH!!

[Degnol]

You need to use quick-lime, not ag-lime. I'm not sure of the difference, but there is a big difference.


Ed

[gladly]

if by quick-lime you mean "ashes from the woodstove" then I agree 100%

quick lime http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_lime

It is also used in water and sewage treatment to reduce acidity, to soften, as a flocculant, and to remove phosphates and other impurities

...commonly known as burnt lime, lime or quicklime, is a widely used chemical compound. It is a white, caustic and alkaline crystalline solid. As a commercial product lime often also contains magnesium oxide, silicon oxide and smaller amounts of aluminium oxide and iron oxide.

Calcium oxide is usually made by the thermal decomposition of materials such as limestone, that contain calcium carbonate (CaCO3; mineral name: calcite) in a lime kiln. This is accomplished by heating the material to above 825°C, a process called calcination or lime-burning, to liberate a molecule of carbon dioxide(CO2); leaving CaO

but I still use the ashes

[Degnol]

I just push the little handle on the side of the tank and somehow it flushes But, then again, we do have indoor plumbing in the states

Do you have to build a fire each time you pinch?

[MUDCRZR]

You can find some timely reading material for your new outhouse here:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_b/...t+in+the+woods

[Sno bored]

That was required reading for one of my college classes. Recreation and leisure studies, we had to read it before backpacking.

[Alaska Ranger]

I was impressed someone was able to find AT&T's old plans!

Where I live, far more people live w/o indoor plumbing than with. Here in Bush Alaska, unless you live in an Indian village, most of us make use of outhouses.


The Traditional Chief of the native community closest to where I live, about 80 miles away, had one pithy remark that I can recall: "White man crazy: S**t in house" He didn't talk that goofy movie-indian talk at other times, but he did then!

And, as you can imagine, it also gets a tad cool here. There is nothing so scrotum-shrinking as to have to sit on a wooden seat at 40 below.

Unless it's at 50 below.

So what we do is forego use of a standard toilet seat, and line the platform instead with rigid insulation. Some swear that blueboard is the comfiest; others have to use pinkboard. Sorry - they're identical, as far as my cheeks are concerned. Either color is terrific on the fundament.

[webelk6]

Originally Posted by frgtwn

However, I am somewhat of an expert at outhouses, having built one, and used it religously for, well some time.


1. The best information can come from your county agricultural agent. You may discover that the county does not allow outhouses.

The depth is related to two things, the usage, and the soil conditions. I, for instance, welded two open ended 55 gallon drums together, sunk them in the ground, and deposited away.

2. Pea Gravel. Pee gravel?

( I just could not resist.) Again, it depends on the soil conditions.

3. For company. Or, to speed up the long lines.

4. This is, actually, a good question. It is variable, Sometimes the heat, and the flys are a problem, and a white powder dusting each deposit may be called for. Other times, or seasons, perhaps it may not be needed at all, or only occasionally.


A few thoughts:

There were tens of thousands of WPA toilets built during the depression, and some of the cast concrete bases are still sitting around, often with no stucture on top. They make a great start. Plop on a toilet seat, build your favorite building on it, put a crescent on the door, you're ready to go!

The TP can get damp in some climates. A large coffee can, with a plastic top works well.

A skylite is a welcome addition. I donated one to an uncle for his outhouse, and it was great.

Make sure you vent the hole. PVC or something straight out the roof. It makes a lot of difference. And, close the lid EVERYTIME. You will thank yourself the next time you enter.

I think that an outhouse should be built without a level or a square. The door needs to swing open by itself, or maybe close by itself. It is just part of the experience.

Come to think of it, some folks put on a self closing door. Pulleys, rope, a window weight or two and you get that reassuring slamming door sound when your business is done.

And do not, DO NOT buy new hinges for the door. They hafta squeek. Shop around if you must, but an outhouse door that doesn't squeek is hardly worth the trouble.


A two story outhouse can be problematic. There is one that I know of that actually works. Still, I would rather be on the second floor.

Books have been written on this subject. One of them that I skimmed was quite entertaining, and could be useful as well. The title escapes me.

By now, you must have guessed that I am somewhat passionate about my outhouse experience. You would be correct. There is nothing quite like sitting there with the door open, gazing contentedly across the back 40, and having the family dog stick his cold nose on your bare legs. Life is good!


Dale

I appreciate all of your tips. It is colder than hell here, and was looking to start construction.

I haven't checked this thread since I started this, and started to LMAO . Never could find out why pooping is so funny. Now I know why kids think noises from that area find it so dang funny.

I already knew the coffee can trick. Like I said we use a bio toilet with bio bags with a 3 sided area complete with a moon cut out.

When we get ready, I will post up the finished product as soon as I get my frame off done

again thanks for all of your inputs, not just Dale.

[Niner]

Don't forget Webelk6 here in WI, to build one you need a permit, and it must be over a vented holding tank so that it can be pumped. If it leaks into the ground, your screwed because they know you have one because you had to pull the permit to build it.

I say crap in the bag and haul it home with you, or throw it in the dumpster at the nearest county park.

[webelk6]

Originally Posted by Niner

Don't forget Webelk6 here in WI, to build one you need a permit, and it must be over a vented holding tank so that it can be pumped. If it leaks into the ground, your screwed because they know you have one because you had to pull the permit to build it.

I say crap in the bag and haul it home with you, or throw it in the dumpster at the nearest county park.

We actually have the current "poopy palace" near the creek so we can watch the humming birds while answering natures call. But I will look into permits.

Where my land is , there are numerous amish , and they actually sell outhouses for about $200 bucks. Part of me want to do that rather than buying all the lumber and building an out of square palace.

[Spud]

Originally Posted by webelk6

We actually have the current "poopy palace" near the creek so we can watch the humming birds while answering natures call. But I will look into permits.

Where my land is , there are numerous amish , and they actually sell outhouses for about $200 bucks. Part of me want to do that rather than buying all the lumber and building an out of square palace.

I mentioned composting toilet previously in this post, I ended up going that route and from experience I can say it is great.

I cant imagine the idea of sucking out a tank, or rather paying someone to do it every so often. And when I thought about the idea of going around the laws in my area and shuffling an outhouse around every year or two and filling in the hole...Man, that would be a lot of work too. And you would always have in the back of your mind, that spot in your yard, or 20years from now...those 10/15 spots in the yard. No thanks.

3yrs with a compost toilet and it works well, if you follow the advice of the manufacturer and are diligent about the composting material that you add and follow the instructions they work great. Also good for the environment, and it is the environment at your back door!

I also have a memory of my great grand parents old house in NJ. There was a spot, or I should say a rather large pit in the back yard. It had formed over a long, long time of out house useage...it was referred to as "The Glory Hole", and it was to be feared.

Amish make good stuff though, can you attest to that? $200 is practically materials and hardware these days. But, a cement holding tank would not be too cheap and it would be hard to do yourself without experience, even the materials to build it would be probably $100-200 min., I would guess that the septic guys are pulling in a pretty penny, god knows they earn it.

Good luck.

[webelk6]

I actually gave a friend of mine 2 55gal empty paint drums. He then dug a hole, buried them, hooked up a 40 gal rubbermaid with a hose leading to an actual toilet.

The drums are set up like a septic for solids and liquids. I can definately say that he is not in code or pulled permits.

Needless to say, I will NOT choose that route.