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Old 11-03-07, 12:59 PM   #1
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Work Truck Build Up

Well, here goes. A year has almost gone by, and I'm still no where near being ready to drive it, but hopefully thoughout the winter I'll be able to turn this old mine truck into it's former glory. Here are a few pics of how things started. First a picture of before I owned it, second after it's cross country trip to my parents place and a bit of a washing, and third after Cory from Kodiak did a little work on the suspension (I finally got to see it in person, and haul it up to Fort St. John).
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Old 11-03-07, 01:05 PM   #2
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It sat for a while in the back alley as summer continued, did some wheeling, and other things before getting ready to start the cleaning process (plus Jim and Lindsey moved up here during that time too). Just after getting back from a hunting trip with my dad and brother, I started on ripping the deck off with the help of a buddy. Then the front bumper and the whole last weekend to clean out a fully stuffed frame. Took the bigger tires off (will probably go with 35x12.5) and put on rusty's 31s so it hopefully will fit in my shop. Frame will probably get a bit of a sand blast and a good painting.
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Old 11-03-07, 01:08 PM   #3
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Here is a close up of the front suspension, still need to do the shock towers and some custom steering arms, as the OTT arms hit the coils on full turn at the moment. Finally here is where it sits now, clean frame, and truck ready for some stripping.
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Old 11-03-07, 10:15 PM   #4
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That is really a cool find! Did it come from Ontario? There was a guy in Tumbler a few years ago scootin around in a 93? What did that cost? Gotta be a Diesel too right?


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Old 11-04-07, 10:17 AM   #5
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That is really a cool find! Did it come from Ontario? There was a guy in Tumbler a few years ago scootin around in a 93? What did that cost? Gotta be a Diesel too right?
Yup, came from Ontario, cost 14,000 plus shipping. There is a guy in Dawson that has a BJ75 too, heard he bought it strait from the dealer in PG. Has to be diesel, or I wouldn't be drivin it. If you want more info on it, or how to get one, send me a PM and I'll forward you to the appropriate person.
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Old 11-04-07, 11:42 AM   #6
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Looks pretty good Deny! Well, it will look better once you clean it up


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Old 11-04-07, 07:12 PM   #7
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Speaking of the appropriate person, thanks Louis. I hope my truck looks half as good as yours. Spent some time on it tonight, and It's taking a bit of time starting on it, as half the time I am only staring at everything, so I can remember how things go together when I get around to that part. Once I get into it though, it should go faster.
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Old 11-05-07, 05:50 AM   #8
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Did you end up buying a front clip from G and S? Once the body panels are replaced it will look awsome. Dedicate a full day to dissassemble the interior - go right to the firewall as there is alot of dust in there to clean out. I even dissassembled the air blower box and cleaned it out.

Dedicate another day to cleaning interior parts, I had a big plastic rubbernmaid container that I filled with hot water . I would just soak and scrub with a scrub brush and spay fantastic on the parts and pieces - everything come up to pretty much new condition - I even did the inside of the vent tubes.

The headliners are nasty - but buy that acrpet cleaner fluid you can get at home depot or sears - whatever - and soak and scrub - the headliner comes out like new as well.

Once my rocker panel was in I used POR15 on the whole inside of the cab, and - strip the carpet off the floormat as it is soaked with dust and shit and won't get rid of water when you wet it. I used FATMAT sound deadener material on th ewhole insde of the cab - from top to bottom - and I used an under hood deader on the insde of the roof as well to make the inside very quiet - I would think about doing that as well. I also popped the panels off the doors and did them with sound deadener. That takes a few hours.

Thats it for now!
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Old 11-05-07, 12:08 PM   #9
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No front clip, thinking of just gettin brand new fenders from EBI, the rest is salvagable, plus I want to do a little extra welding and rubber mud prevention on the inerwheel wells anyway.

Thanks for the cleaning tips, what kind of product is fat mat, spray on? and where can you buy it?

Did a little more work on the truck last night, and man, some bolts are like new, yet others are rusted and I've already snapped a few (brings back memories of fixing up my 1982 cruiser!). I'll make sure to clean everything, replace all that needs to be, and rust proof the hell out of it.

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Old 11-05-07, 12:46 PM   #10
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Fat mat is a tar like mat that is sticky on one side and has foil on the other - you peel and stick basically.

Bolt you will snap will be the inner fender and lower fender bolts - my advice - take your time, heat them and turn them out - but watch for fire Also, don't buy any toyota fender clips and quick nuts - I have a bunch her e- and they cost me about 5-7 bucks each! Fricking crazy.

I POR15'd the inside of the fenders and most of the rest of the front clip - should be good for a while.


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Old 11-06-07, 08:13 AM   #11
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So spent a little more time taking out some bolts before my hockey game last night, and man, how many frigen bolts hold the fender on, seems like a million. Never taken a 70series apart, so I am probably doing it all wrong, bet once I take the last bolt out, three pieces will fall to the ground.


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Old 11-06-07, 09:09 AM   #12
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Ya, they are a real bastard - to take the inner wheel well off you have to remove the front rad support mount bolt - but you are gonna have to remove that whole thing anyway.


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Old 11-08-07, 09:20 AM   #13
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Well, finally got to do a little more last night, as I didn't have hockey. All I maneged to do was get the fender off finally! Those two bolts down under the clutch master were a bitch to get, espesially with all that dust crap that turned to mud cause I was spraying everything down with WD40 stuff. Got quite a bit of snow last night, so looks like winter is apon us now, definately glad I have the wood stove pumping when I am working in there, and it even stays somewhat warm to the next day. Heres a quick pick of what it looks like now. (3 bolts snapped, and 3 the heads were so rusty I had to weld nuts to them and take them out, but will replace all bolts, so not a big deal. Lower fenders definately need replacing, but the rest looks really good except the rockers I guess)
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Old 11-08-07, 05:27 PM   #14
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Where the wheel well inner fender was rusted (around the bolt holes) I just welded in some metal strip drilled new holes. I think the inner fenders cost over 300 each and decided to save some cash. I then sandblasted the remaining rust and used POR15 - 3 coats on the hole thing - should last a few years now.

The firewall had some kind of black rust proofing on it - the only thing that takes it off is strong varsol type paint thinner. Make sure your garage is well ventilated when you do that - and wear a canister mask. It also cleans all the shit off the hoses and rubber parts very well.


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Old 11-13-07, 10:02 AM   #15
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Well so much for the long weekend, did more drinking and sleeping than working, but got a little more done, here is the current state.
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Old 11-13-07, 01:08 PM   #16
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Are you going to take the cab right off? For the next one I rebuild the cab is coming off and getting line x'd. Also, remove yuor fuel tank while you have the truck apart - I had mine pressure checked and then POR15'd it. Also gave me a chance to weld a complete new heavy duty skid plate for the fuel tank.


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Old 11-13-07, 07:33 PM   #17
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Yeah, didn't really plan on taking the tub off, but I might do it like I did to my 42, just lift it up a bit to clean and treat the body mounts. Was planning on taking the fuel tank out though, as I plan to have it off when the frame is getting sandblasted. Hey does airconditioning gas smell like rotten eggs, as I cracked the lines last night, didn't smell anything, then this morning, Lindsay said it smelled bad by the shop.


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Old 11-14-07, 04:24 AM   #18
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It does have a smell, but I got out of dodge when mine was cracked - just air the place out and you are fine


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Old 11-14-07, 09:08 PM   #19
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Hey does airconditioning gas smell like rotten eggs, as I cracked the lines last night, didn't smell anything, then this morning, Lindsay said it smelled bad by the shop.
The old freon 12, 24, etc should not smell. However, if it comes in contact with an open flame it turns into a very poisonous gas.
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Old 11-14-07, 10:11 PM   #20
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I hope it's not freon, as I was doing all this with the wood stove blazin! Truck is pretty new, so I would think it would be the newer, safer gas.
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Old 11-15-07, 04:21 AM   #21
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It's 134


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Old 11-15-07, 08:25 AM   #22
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Bit of an update, I should have gotten to this stage over the weekend, but things happen I guess. Finished stripping the front clip with the help of my brother. Will get to stripping down the frame, hopefully the fuel tank, and cleaning the engine up a bit this weekend. Also posting up a picture of the drunken night when I had my brother and a few buddies push it into the shop.
Enjoy.
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Old 11-17-07, 01:36 PM   #23
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HI Deny,

I've been getting white smoke on start up on cold days here - so I figure it's glow plugs - found them here for a great price, not sure if we canget them locally cheaper though. I figure 75 bucks is a pretty good price for 6 plugs. I bought mine from roodogs - I have picked up alot from them.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...low&category0=

Easy to replace while you have everything apart.


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Old 11-17-07, 02:47 PM   #24
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Yeah, I'm already going all out, so might as well replace everything I need to.


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Old 11-17-07, 07:24 PM   #25
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Well, while you are doing the timing belt you should do the water pump as well - it isn't very expensive. Change the belt tensioner as well when you are in there, and a new seal too for the plastic timing case cover. Valve cover gasket too. Make sure you folllow the correct proceedure for replacing the belt - use a wrench on the cam shaft to keep it from moving.


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Old 11-28-07, 09:50 AM   #26
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Well, thought I would post a pic of the current state, doesn't look much different, stripped a few more things, and started doing some cleaning. Sort of a bitch to clean up, as some of that dust is pretty much concrete, but once off, looks pretty good, almost new! Also posting a pic of my suspension, as I have a bit of a question for anyone in the know (I ain't no steering speciallist). Anyway, the drag link is at quit an angle, and I was just wondering if that is a big issue, or will I have to get some kind of custom dropped pitman arm (don't really know the terminology, but the arm off the steering box)?
Thanks.
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