100-series modification differences and evaluations (by John Shotts):

[Equipt]

Great write up, and beautiful work. It's my first read through and it looks like we each invented some of the same wheels, so to speak. I learned a lot though. Guess I am changing shocks soon. Thanks for all the insight.

Cheers,

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by Equipt

Great write up, and beautiful work. It's my first read through and it looks like we each invented some of the same wheels, so to speak. I learned a lot though. Guess I am changing shocks soon. Thanks for all the insight.

Cheers,

Glad you liked it Paul.

[OrangePips]

Hi John and all LandCruiser owners on this forum.

This is a great work that has been described on this thread. For me it was the confirmation that I should start modifying my 100 LandCruiser.

Suspensionwise I fully swaped stock suspension to OME, which gave me arnd 2 inches of lift in the back and 1 inch in the front which I know can be adjusted by torsion bars.

However I have one problem. I have custom made forged 18" wheels with 7,25 (ET 55) of backspacing and the width of 9". Current tire size is 285-60-18 which is about 31,5 inches. I know that you had stock 16" wheels with ET 60 and width of 8". I noticed you installed 315 wide rubber on your wheels and had a minor tire to vehicle contact on the lower arm. My worries are that now with my tire size as mentioned I have around 1 santimiter of space between the tire and the upper A arm. I am planning on installing 305 wide tires namely 305-60-18, which is 33 " in diameter. The increase in width will give me 10 millimitres increase on each side of the tire which equals the amount of space left. I am confused a little bit, how is it possible that you used 315 tires without not having trouble with upper A arm without adding wheel spacers. I really hesitate on buying the spacers and also I don't know what to do with 305 tires. Haven't bought them yet. May be I made my measurements wrong.

Do you have any photos of underneath the front fender when the wheel is fully turned to one side with 315 tires. I just wanted to visually compare my situation to yours.

I am grateful for any help. Thanks. Askar.

[OrangePips]

Independantly from previous post I just wanted to thank John for the work he has done. This work inspired me a lot. Before I considered on lifting my LC, I had made only the following modifications. I had TRD compressor installed with Unichip, Greddy Performance exhaust, Greddy plugs, Boze alloys forged wheels, trd sway bars. Here is a photo of my car before I made changes to suspension.

Together with a suspension change described in the previous message I also installed ARB rear locker.

I hope to post more further details on the work done with my car if I have a chance.

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by OrangePips

Hi John and all LandCruiser owners on this forum.

This is a great work that has been described on this thread. For me it was the confirmation that I should start modifying my 100 LandCruiser.

Suspensionwise I fully swaped stock suspension to OME, which gave me arnd 2 inches of lift in the back and 1 inch in the front which I know can be adjusted by torsion bars.

However I have one problem. I have custom made forged 18" wheels with 7,25 (ET 55) of backspacing and the width of 9". Current tire size is 285-60-18 which is about 31,5 inches. I know that you had stock 16" wheels with ET 60 and width of 8". I noticed you installed 315 wide rubber on your wheels and had a minor tire to vehicle contact on the lower arm. My worries are that now with my tire size as mentioned I have around 1 santimiter of space between the tire and the upper A arm. I am planning on installing 305 wide tires namely 305-60-18, which is 33 " in diameter. The increase in width will give me 10 millimitres increase on each side of the tire which equals the amount of space left. I am confused a little bit, how is it possible that you used 315 tires without not having trouble with upper A arm without adding wheel spacers. I really hesitate on buying the spacers and also I don't know what to do with 305 tires. Haven't bought them yet. May be I made my measurements wrong.

Do you have any photos of underneath the front fender when the wheel is fully turned to one side with 315 tires. I just wanted to visually compare my situation to yours.

I am grateful for any help. Thanks. Askar.

Congrats on your mods. While I'm not sure about your rim/tire/backspacing combo I can tell you that fitting 315's with only a 1" T-bar increase will leave you with more problems. And yes, hitting your fender when turned and stuffed, or turning and hitting a bump will happen. I took 2.75" up for me to eliminate that. The only pic I can think of I've shown below.

Wheel spacers for ME are not an option on a 4-wheeler. I will not add the stress to the components. Other take the risk and that's OK. It's their truck.

If you want to run the bigger tires you'll need to add the trim packs to the rear and trim the front more.
Also note the tire model makes a difference. The BFG AT's and MT's fit fine. I've heard some with real wide lugs rub even more.

[OrangePips]

Originally Posted by ShottsUZJ100

Congrats on your mods. While I'm not sure about your rim/tire/backspacing combo I can tell you that fitting 315's with only a 1" T-bar increase will leave you with more problems. And yes, hitting your fender when turned and stuffed, or turning and hitting a bump will happen. I took 2.75" up for me to eliminate that. The only pic I can think of I've shown below.

Wheel spacers for ME are not an option on a 4-wheeler. I will not add the stress to the components. Other take the risk and that's OK. It's their truck.

If you want to run the bigger tires you'll need to add the trim packs to the rear and trim the front more.
Also note the tire model makes a difference. The BFG AT's and MT's fit fine. I've heard some with real wide lugs rub even more.

Thank you so much for the reply. I understand that I have to adjust my torsion bars a little bit more, however I am more concearned with tire to upper A arm contact in the front! I am also reluctunt to use the spacers, but don't know what else to do. These wheels cost me a lot, so I have no way back. I am planning on BFG MT KM2s by the way. So I guess I ll just have to order the tires and see how they fit. If anything I will use the spacers. Thanks again.

I also found it interesting when you discribed the adjustment of the front end to maintain the maximum lift while preserving the droop. Did you do it by feelings, or by precise measurements. I am asking because I read in the OME torsion bars user guide that the amount of droop should be between 50 to 70 millimeters. I was wondering, when you raised you front as you mentioned 2,75", how much exactly is the droop? I had my torsion bars adjusted and we measured a droop of 55 millimeters, and I was thinking if I raise the front a little more and have the droop decreased to 40 millimeters, will that be ok. What do you think?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Originally Posted by OrangePips

I also found it interesting when you discribed the adjustment of the front end to maintain the maximum lift while preserving the droop. Did you do it by feelings, or by precise measurements. I am asking because I read in the OME torsion bars user guide that the amount of droop should be between 50 to 70 millimeters. I was wondering, when you raised you front as you mentioned 2,75", how much exactly is the droop? I had my torsion bars adjusted and we measured a droop of 55 millimeters, and I was thinking if I raise the front a little more and have the droop decreased to 40 millimeters, will that be ok. What do you think?

When I went up to 315's we settled on the lift height after several road tests. At first I had such little droop that I'd lift a tire while hard cornering. Not good.

At the current height the on-road ride is good and safe. I have to do something wild to lift a tire. Off road I could use more droop though like everything there are trade-offs. All I know is that I am up 2.75". And like any maker (OME), they will recommend specs that cover themselves safety-wise. More droop is good. More droop on my truck is not needed IMO. It's been good for 80K now with 35's.