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Old 08-14-09, 07:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I do the easiest way

I wanted to share with you how I do ... and it is really, really very simple.

I get the canola oil from a supermarket near me. They use it to fry chicken and french fry.I left a week to rest so that all small crumbs fall to the bottom.

Then I use a drill pump taking care not sifone the bottom (not more than 2''from the bottom.) there is a small filter (screen) at the end of my pipes.

I transfer the oil in a 90l drum and it stays there for at least another week, sometimes more.

then with an electric pump I transfer the oil in a big drum, taking care to put the oil in 2 big water separator filters 12 micron (currently the standard filter on a 3B is 10 micron).

That's it! I filled a container of 23L and I added prior to each full of diesel. Add to this few oz of Diesel Kleen (cetane boost). I then run with B30 ... sometimes I put more (B55).

I did NO modification to my engine or my pipes ... nothing. I must stop adding oil when it's cold outside ... from October to May because it is colder!

I also have to change my fuel filter more often, usually after 1,500 - 2,000km
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Old 08-16-09, 01:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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That is pretty simple.

How many km's have you been doing this for?

How are your cold starts (not cold weather, just starts when the engine is not warmed up)?

How do you know you are not coking the valves?

Glad it seems to be working for you, but I'd be wary of damages you cant see/feel

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'66 TR4A IRS
'77 FJ40, Frame off SOON!
'83 BJ60 Parts truck! (Mr. Dumpy)
'84 BJ60, Needs TURBO! WVO Buildup Thread

'85 BJ70, DD, WVO soon!
'87 924GTr, (summer DD)
'90 CRX - DOA.
'01 Impreza outback sport - FOR SALE
'02 F350 Diesel - WVO'd & runnin' free!!
(so, um - do you think I have a "problem"?)

(some assembly required to some of the above)
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Old 08-16-09, 05:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoMo View Post
How many km's have you been doing this for? -
13 000km with my BJ70 (second summer) and 2215km with my BJ42

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMoMo View Post
How are your cold starts (not cold weather, just starts when the engine is not warmed up)?
I start like a champ ! Always !! He coughs a little in the fall ... then it's time to return to pure diesel

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Originally Posted by MrMoMo View Post
How do you know you are not coking the valves?
What do you mean? I never heard anything about that. Can you explain ?

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Originally Posted by MrMoMo View Post
Glad it seems to be working for you, but I'd be wary of damages you cant see/feel.
Can you explain ?

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Last edited by David*BJ70; 08-16-09 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 08-19-09, 07:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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(please note, this is not my work, just a copy from elsewhere on the internet)

The properties of canola oil and diesel are very similar, except a significant difference in viscosity, with canola oil having 12 times the viscosity of diesel. Even after heating to around 80 deg C it is still six times as viscous as diesel. This leads to problems with flow of oils from the fuel tank to the engine, blockages in filters and subsequent engine power losses. Even if preheating is used to lower the viscosity, difficulties may still be encountered with starting due to the temperatures required for oils to give off ignitable vapours. Further, engines can suffer coking and gumming which leads to sticking of piston rings due to multi-bonded compounds undergoing pyrolyses. Polyunsaturated fatty acids also undergo oxidation in storage causing gum formation and at high temperatures where complex oxidative and thermal polymerisation can occur.

To date there have been many problems found with using vegetable oils directly in diesel engines (especially in direct injection engines).

1. Coking and trumpet formation on the injectors to such an extent that fuel atomisation does not occur properly or is even prevented as a result of plugged orifices,
2. Carbon deposits,
3. Oil ring sticking,
4. Thickening and gelling of the lubricating oil as a result of contamination by vegetable oils, and
5. Lubricating problems.

Other disadvantages to the use of vegetable oils and especially animal fats, are the high viscosity (about 11 to 17 times higher than diesel fuel), lower volatilities content which causes the formation of deposits in engines due to incomplete combustion and incorrect vaporisation characteristics... At high temperatures there can be some problems with polymerisation of unsaturated fatty acids, this is where cross-linking starts to occur between other molecules, causing very large agglomerations to be formed and consequently gumming occurs.

-- From "Research into Biodiesel Kinetics and Catalyst Development", by Adam Karl Khan, Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Queensland, 17 May 2002 -- Acrobat file, 432Kb:
http://www.cheque.uq.edu.au/ugrad/ch...han_Thesis.pdf

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'66 TR4A IRS
'77 FJ40, Frame off SOON!
'83 BJ60 Parts truck! (Mr. Dumpy)
'84 BJ60, Needs TURBO! WVO Buildup Thread

'85 BJ70, DD, WVO soon!
'87 924GTr, (summer DD)
'90 CRX - DOA.
'01 Impreza outback sport - FOR SALE
'02 F350 Diesel - WVO'd & runnin' free!!
(so, um - do you think I have a "problem"?)

(some assembly required to some of the above)
-----------------------------------------------------------
To invent, you need a good imagination, and a pile of Junk. (Edison)
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Old 08-20-09, 05:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info MrMoMo. It's very interesting.

Simply add that I used only twice B55 and the B30 is the standard (23L all full of 90L).

In order to minimize problems of rings and injector, I make a Seafoam treatment in oil at the 3-4 oil change and a can of Seafoam is added to my fuel filter every 2-3 changes.

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