1. If you get a clunk or drive line Grrrr when you accelerate or brake that is not associated with a gear shift, chances are it is somewhere in the drive shaft.
2. Checking the transfer case oil level and condition is a good start. Occasionally people find ATF in there by mistake. Also check the front and rear axle diff oil levels and top up or change if required. This is also a good time to make sure your diff breathers are not blocked up.
3. Next lube the u-joints but do not lube the drive shafts themselves even though there is a zirc to do this. Also check for play in the u-joints yanking the drive shaft at either end hard in all directions. If you can get a wiggle going you should replace the u-joint. The OEM Toyota u-joint is pricey, but much preferable to aftermarket and usually fails only if it has been allowed to run dry. Replacing a u-joint yourself requires dropping the drive shaft and a c-clamp or similar. Check the slip Yokes as well.
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Originally Posted by landtank
I've replaced both my shafts for loose slip yokes. This can be hard to detect and you need to grasp the axle in just the right spot to feel it. If your hand is a little forward or aft of this spot the axle will feel tight. Basically grab the outer tube at the end and move the shaft up and down. At the end you'll probably not feel any play. Then move you hand back about 1/4" and check again. I know it doesn't seem like much but the hand placement is critical. Keep repeating down the shaft for about 6". Once you feel a bad slip yoke it will be easier the next time.
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4. Lubing in the drive shaft zirc arguably still does not lube the splines that allow the shaft to slide in and out but too much lube in there can cause unacceptable loading and damage to the t-case or diffs. Instead, drop the drive shafts from the diff ends and separate the drive shafts into two parts at the spline (be sure to make match marks before you separate). clean the spline and receiver area for spline (there may be a lot of built up hardened grease in there) and then lube the spline and reassemble. This is a ˝ banana job requiring you to undo 8 bolts (although you have to remember to loosen from the bolt side, not the nut, because the nuts are friction locking and can wear out)
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Originally Posted by IdahoDoug
As many of you know, over greasing the zirk fitting that feeds the rear shaft spline can lead to the shaft being essentially "hydrolocked" and doing damage to the center diff or rear diff due to enormous force they are not designed to take longitudinally.
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5. Check if the drive shafts are in proper "phase". The alignment u-joint arms at either end of the drive shaft should be the same on the rear drive shaft, but at a 90 degree angle on the front drive shaft (e.g., "--" and "--" on the rear, and "[" and "--" on the front). This can apparently cause vibration or other stuff. I just noticed that my front drive shaft was out of phase. It has been for at least 18 months when I had it straightened.
6. next check for play in the u-joints. wiggle them up and down and see if there is play. If there is play, replace the U joints and have the shaft balanced per the PM section.