Rear diff lock wiring in an '02 4Runner (1 Viewer)

[theferg]

Swapped an e-lock rear into my '02 4Runner and am now working on wiring it up. Been folowing this first schematic, but want to do something more stockish for the lock detection switch indication. So after figuring out that I can't just steal the "RR Diff Lock" light/indicator on the instrument panel out of an older, used-to-be e-lock equipped truck, I've come up with a new thought about the indicator/light. What if I rerouted the wiring going to the indicator LED in this wiring digram to go back to the light in the rr diff lock switch? So the result is that the rr diff lock switch itself becomes the indicator light... Would I still need the resistor in-line before the light?

And would this be correct for the new routing:

OLD // NEW
12v line connecting before pin 5 on rr diff lock switch -> resistor/LED // 12v line before pin5 -> pin 3 on rr diff lock switch
LED -> pin 2 diff lock dectection switch // pin 4 rr diff lock switch -> pin 2 diff lock detection switch

Dose that make sense?

Here's a crappy photochop of what I was thinking. Red is my changes. Would this work?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Ben, an LED will not work without the proper sized resistor. There's a formula to calculate the proper size I'm sure that you can find online. Perhaps the knob can be drilled out for a very small LED. Or at least it can be mounted right by the switch, like mine

I've gotten some LEDs from crap shack and an online source, and they all came with their own resistor built in, but they were the style for mounting on a flat surface with a matching bezel. Don't forget the LEDs are polarity-dependant and only work one direction. Good luck.

 

[simpletallman]

I just finished putting an e-locker into my 96 4runner using that same image to wire it. I had no pre-wiring, but got it to work and look as if it was factory.

First, if you pull your gauge cluster, there should be a hole for the diff lock light. You can purchase the little socket bulb from toyota. If you follow the circuit board leads from that bulb, it will lead to an empty pin on pig tail that plugs into the guage cluster. I fabbed up a pin from a little piece of metal and soldered a wire to it to run to my locker ECU. If you connect this wire to the yellow/blue "LED" wire on your diagram, your in business. If you want it to blink as the locker engages, also connect it to pin 1 that says "do no connect" on the locker ECU.

Another option that is nice: find the green/orange wire coming from the 4wd ECU. It is the speedo wire. If you splice pin 10 from the locker ECU to that, you will have your speed safety. Then, leave off the toggle switch on pin 8... or if you want to have the 2wd safety (I didn't), run that to splice into the gray wire on the 4wd ECU. Otherwise, ground it.

Also, while you have the gauge cluster out, you can splice into the dash light wire to run to pin 3 on the diff switch... or pin 4 (you can reverse these two). I cant remember what color the dash light wire is, but you can use a test light to find it... switching the dash lights on and off.

This will make everything like factory. I blew a few fuses figuring this out, but it works perfect on mine.

 

[theferg]

First, if you pull your gauge cluster, there should be a hole for the diff lock light.

Nope. Not in an '01-02. It's not there. The '96-00s should all have it though.

Also, while you have the gauge cluster out, you can splice into the dash light wire to run to pin 3 on the diff switch... or pin 4 (you can reverse these two). I cant remember what color the dash light wire is, but you can use a test light to find it... switching the dash lights on and off.

The initial diagram posted above indicates how to set this up.

 

[theferg]

So I've just finished wiring mine up like the second digram posted above. The locker engages and the motor seems to stop itself just fine and it also seems to dis-engage just fine as well. But I don't have any illumination of the switch at any time. I may end up putting in an LED after-all, but was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what might be wrong?

-Ferg-

 

[lurch]

When I put mine in I followed a schematic I found online (maybe yota tech) that used a couple of relays, 3 leds, and a 2 way toggle. Works great plus I can engage the locker at anytime with out the stock wiring hack...great for snow days and big parking lots

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

My wiring diagram:

Here's my indicator:

 

[pillguy]

97 4runner locked

I did this early in 2009 and ran into same problem. You should spend the 10 bucks to download the FSM section dealing with electronics. Between that, and a few other discussions with experts on this on MUD, I figured it out.

To use the factory light blank. I did not run a resistor, just went to Toyota and bought a few of the plastic sockets that fit into the instrument cluster. I carefully cut the plastic back by the brass contacts and soldered on two wires, (black and red), put on some JB weld and taped it wires up.

THis is your only real option for factory light and relatively easy.

Also, you will have to run a wire to your ABS unit to disable it (if you have it) when you engage the difflock switch.

The bear of the problem, is toyota does not sell the thin electric pins that goe into the circuit plugs so you have to solder it, shove it in and use a bit of glue and tape.
Mine seems to be fine after 9 months of driving it.

View attachment scanDIffLockWire.pdf

 

[pillguy]

indicator light

Forgot, here is mine dash light and brain wiring.



actual brain is circled in green and the big black loop to left is the wiring harness wire I used

 

[WarDamnEagle]

That in-line resistor is only necessary is you don't have an LED with a built-in resistor. If you go to 12voltguy.com you can buy a 12volt LED which has the resistor built in.

I used two LED's for my diff lock indicators and they work great.

You might find these threads useful:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html

 

[cruisercesar]

Power source hook up

Great thread.

The wiring diagram from post 1 is top notch. I used it and almost completed the diff locker retrofit for my 96 4Runner Limited.

But I am still not sure how the 12V power source gets to the e-locker circuit.

Seems like both, the ECU and Switch are plugged to 12V power via B-Y cables. But what exactly those cables are plugged to?

Are they plugged to the connectors on the back of the driver Junction Box. What connectors and what pins?

Thanks.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Great thread.

The wiring diagram from post 1 is top notch. I used it and almost completed the diff locker retrofit for my 96 4Runner Limited.

But I am still not sure how the 12V power source gets to the e-locker circuit.

Seems like both, the ECU and Switch are plugged to 12V power via B-Y cables. But what exactly those cables are plugged to?

Are they plugged to the connectors on the back of the driver Junction Box. What connectors and what pins?

Thanks.

It's probably best if you get your circuit a dedicated 20 amp line from the battery. You could tie into an existing power source, but that's not ideal.