2000 Tacoma need a buildup

spaldam · 10-05-09, 12:42 PM

I recently sold my FJC and just bought a 2000 Tacoma v6, SR5, 4x4, manual hubs, automatic, and I'm looking to do a build up on it. Any ideas or suggests would be great. It's going to be my daily driver, but I also plan to take it off-road a few times a year on some moderate trails.

I basically have $2k to do the following (as you can tell I need to stretch the money as far as I can). They are listed in order of importance (at least I think they are):

Tune up (spark plugs, fuel filter, belts, etc).
Windshield replacement (lots of cracks)
Tail light replacement (one of them is broken)
Exhaust replacement (yes it's very rusted and sounds like it has a hole in it).
Fluids flushed/replaced (planning to go Mobile 1 synthetic).
Interior upgrades (driver seat is well warn but the rest looks decent).
Stereo - it has the stock CD/tape deck but I'd like an MP3 disk player (might just use the old one I have sitting around in my garage).
I've already got lost of extra wiring and fuse boxes laying around along with a CB, but I might try to put in a secondary battery to run it and some lights (maybe a winch some day too).
It's defiantly going to need a lift, but I'm not sure what I can do that will be decent for cheap. I'm thinking a combination of shackles and add-a-leaf on the rear (along with shock relocation and U-bolt flip and new break lines), but I'm not sure what to do on the front.
Wheels and tires - I'm thinking 33x12.5x16 (the current set is in good condition for street use, but worthless for off-road)
If there's anything left over I'll start looking at rock-rails and tube bumpers.
Someday I'd like to supercharge if, but that may be a while.

Thanks for any suggestions or input.

hardontoyotas · 10-05-09, 07:06 PM

make sure the frame is in good shape before you spend your money on this truck

hayesvegas · 10-06-09, 06:37 AM

yeah its probably in the recall/buyback. i had a great experience getting mine swapped out. it's an '01, now with a new frame.

spaldam · 10-06-09, 03:56 PM

I guess I'll have to take a closer look at the frame. Other then the after market tow hitch hanging of the back of it, I didn't see anything noticeably wrong with the frame.

hayesvegas · 10-07-09, 08:14 AM

neither did i until the dealership inspected it. they beat on it with a ball peen hammer until they find a brittle enough spot to make a whole. then you're in business.

Jacket · 10-07-09, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spaldam

I basically have $2k to do the following (as you can tell I need to stretch the money as far as I can). They are listed in order of importance (at least I think they are):

It's defiantly going to need a lift, but I'm not sure what I can do that will be decent for cheap. I'm thinking a combination of shackles and add-a-leaf on the rear (along with shock relocation and U-bolt flip and new break lines), but I'm not sure what to do on the front.
Wheels and tires - I'm thinking 33x12.5x16 (the current set is in good condition for street use, but worthless for off-road)
If there's anything left over I'll start looking at rock-rails and tube bumpers.
Someday I'd like to supercharge if, but that may be a while.

Thanks for any suggestions or input.

For the front, a set of OME springs and struts will serve you nice for a reasonable price. AAL in the rear is a good budget option, unless your rear leafs are already worn out.

Personally, I think 12.5" wide tires are too wide - I'd go for 285/75/16 or 255/85/16 - fits better, steers better and more tire options for the same height.

Don't wait to long on the sliders - that long wheel base will require rocker protection sooner rather than later.

spaldam · 10-08-09, 09:42 AM

I'm starting to understand a little better why I got such a cheap price on this thing...

So the good news is that the frame appears to be in good condition. The bad news is that the engine and suspension are not in such good condition.

There's a ticking noise coming from the engine that seems consistent with the RPM's.
It's leaking oil from what appears to be the front and rear main seals.
The coolant was boiling over into the overflow tank, but the temp gauge wasn't showing any signs of over heating.
the suspension is getting rather rusty and it's very shaky at 45 MPH.
The Catalytic convert has been replaced with a straight pipe.

I guess I've got a lot of work to get done this weekend.

hardontoyotas · 10-09-09, 07:23 PM

glad to hear the frame is in good shape. hope the ticking noise isn't bad news.

spaldam · 10-10-09, 10:22 PM

So now that I have the front of the engine pulled apart...

I didn't find any oil in the water (though there was some copper looking floaties in the reservoir and under the radiator cap). I didn't find any water in the oil either, so I'm hoping the head gaskets are ok.

The oil leaking appears that it may be from the valve cover on the passenger side near the back of the engine. The bolts were a bit loose on the valve cover, so I snugged them up as best i could without taking everything off. The area around the head gasket looks fairly clean as best I can tell, except the one area under the valve cover were the oil appears to be leaking from higher up.

I was able to barrow a special too to remove the crank shaft pulley so that I can replace the timing belt (Thanks Chris).

The problem now is the tensioner pulley. I can't get the belt of without removing the pulley and I can't get the pulley off without removing the A/C bracket, and the A/C condenser bolts won't budge.

Is there a shortcut to getting this done that doesn't require removing the A/C condenser?

On the other hand, the belt and pump don't look all that bad. Maybe they were replaced recently enough? I guess I really don't have anything to reference to know that for sure.

Thanks

spaldam · 10-30-09, 09:40 AM

We'll, it looks like the heads and gaskets were fine, but one of the cylinders is cracked...

So now I'm looking for an engine.