brakes?

[apeterson]

I just got a 98 4runner limited and seems one of the rear breaks is draging and every now and then you can hear it but then the sound goes away but comes back. somtimes the "brake" light on the dash will go on and then go off like you pulled the E brake???

any ideas???

Thanks!!

[AWDios]

frozen caliper

[apeterson]

for sure coming from rear... so those are drums....

[FlatlandTRD]

Sounds like your e-brake is not fully releasing (maybe needs adjustment), which would also explain why your brake light is coming on. There's an adjustment nut under the driver's side, also check the rear drum to see if the lever is releasing, maybe a kink in the line?

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by FlatlandTRD

Sounds like your e-brake is not fully releasing (maybe needs adjustment), which would also explain why your brake light is coming on. There's an adjustment nut under the driver's side, also check the rear drum to see if the lever is releasing, maybe a kink in the line?

the light only illuminates when only one, or both of the following occur:

parking brake lever engaged
low fluid in resiviour.


mis adjustment has no effect on the light.

[raydouble]

Originally Posted by WristPin

the light only illuminates when only one, or both of the following occur:

parking brake lever engaged
low fluid in resiviour.

x2 Check fluid level

Pull off your drum and see if your missing (rolling around) a hold down spring for the brake shoes. Fairly common and allows the shoe to over adjust itself causing your complaint. Check them out.

[apeterson]

thank you guys!!!

[FlatlandTRD]

Originally Posted by WristPin

mis adjustment has no effect on the light.

It does if there is brake drag (first sentence!), hence the "out of adjustment". It's in the FSM (section BR-6 & BR-8), and it will activate the light. I assumed he wouldn't ask the question if he didn't first check the brake fluid level in the resevoir.

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by FlatlandTRD

It does if there is brake drag (first sentence!), hence the "out of adjustment". It's in the FSM (section BR-6 & BR-8), and it will activate the light. I assumed he wouldn't ask the question if he didn't first check the brake fluid level in the resevoir.

thats crazy. how does the ECU determine that?

I believe what you are telling me.

word for word, what does the FSM say?

[apeterson]

well I did redo the front and rear brakes... the ebrake stuff was stuck but the front brakes were also very bad so got it all done... stops like a champ and no brake drag... :-)

thanks again guys!!

[FlatlandTRD]

Originally Posted by WristPin

thats crazy. how does the ECU determine that?

Guess same way it determines if the e-brake lever is pulled a click or two (as I'm not an engineer). I just know what has worked for me, and what others have determined on their 4rnrs, and the FSM lists that as a step to check when troubleshooting. But his is fixed now, so good for you apeterson!

[97kurt]

The brake light will not come on if the rears are dragging. The adjuster on my drivers rear went nuts and pushed the shoes so far out the tire could barely move. No light during that entire mess.

Ended up having to replace all the shoes, hardware and hammering a tab back into place that retains the lower (6 o'clock) part of the shoes.

My guess is that your return spring for the e-brake is messed up.

[apeterson]

Originally Posted by 97kurt

The brake light will not come on if the rears are dragging. The adjuster on my drivers rear went nuts and pushed the shoes so far out the tire could barely move. No light during that entire mess.

Ended up having to replace all the shoes, hardware and hammering a tab back into place that retains the lower (6 o'clock) part of the shoes.

My guess is that your return spring for the e-brake is messed up.

again.. thanks it is done... it was not the spring but the fact that the string was not strong enough to get the ebrake to come off... it was so corroded... I had to take them all apart and move them back and forth until ther are easy to move.

[larsdennert]

The bias valve has a switch that senses unequal pressure between the front and rear brake circuits. If the brakes are massively out of the adjustment, have air in them, leaking or other such malidy the pressure differential will trip the sensor.

A shame I didn't see this earlier or I would have recommended you upgrade to the Tundra brakes to prevent warping in the future.

[WristPin]

Originally Posted by larsdennert

The bias valve has a switch that senses unequal pressure between the front and rear brake circuits. If the brakes are massively out of the adjustment, have air in them, leaking or other such malidy the pressure differential will trip the sensor.

A shame I didn't see this earlier or I would have recommended you upgrade to the Tundra brakes to prevent warping in the future.

thanks for clearing that up. I have been wondering how that worked.