Replaced the Timing Belt & Water Pump

[FlatlandTRD]

Sorry I'm not doing a write up, there's plenty floating around in addition to the FSM that worked just great.
Timing Belt
Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement

Other than the crank pully bolt (the one that's 217 ft lbs), it was realatively pleasant. I did end up removing the radiator for protection and room. I'll get all the part #s up, and include some of the pointers I came across in my searches.

My timing belt was just fine after 108K, even the drive belts & coolant were okay. The new water pumps come with new and improved metal gaskets with impregnated rubber to substitute the old method of smearing on FIPG.

I was definitely glad to have done this in a my garage (not too hot, just a little cool) with plenty of extra tools on hand. And to be able to stop for lunch/dinner without worrying about a time frame. Plus, smoked pork, & cheesy corn bake, and a really hit the spot. I also had help from a fellow mud member, that way I was confident nothing was screwed up.

It does seem to run smoother now, and a light squeek noise is gone (but I'm still replacing the AC adjuster puller bearing). Even the wife said it sounds better. And I would almost swear it feels just a tad bit more responsive, but I wouldn't claim any gains.

Anyway, it's definitely achievable, and you learn some more about your 3.4.

[FlatlandTRD]

Okay, part numbers in case someone searches or just wants the info:

OEM Toyota P/Ns
No. 1 Idler Pulley (lower)- 13505-62070

No. 2 Idler Pulley (upper)- 13503-62040

Timing belt- 13568-69095

Water pump- 16100-69398-83

Water pump gasket (includes thermostat gasket)- 16325-62010

Thermostat- 90916-03075

Optional OEM P/Ns
Crank Bolt- 90119-16006

Tensioner assembly- 13540-62021

Crank oil seal- 90311-40022

Camshaft oil seals (same p/n for both)- 90311-38051

Drive belts (Mitsuboshi)
Alternator- 90080-91090-83

P/S- 99364-21070-83

A/C- 99364-20870-78

My A/C compressor bracket pulley had a slight squeek-squeek in it. So I removed the cylindrical roller bearing to replace it with a new. NSK P/N 6301 DU2

Other than that, The idler pulleys were probably okay, but the new ones were smoother. The tensioner could probably be reused but to get to it and check it, it's much easier if the A/C bracket is unbolted from the block (which means unbolting the A/C compressor, not that bad).

There's no need to remove the P/S pump, alternator, or oil dipstick & guide. You shouldn't need any kind of puller for the crankshaft pulley or crankshaft timing pulley, they slide off.

If there's any questions, don't hesitate.

[cackalak han]

I need to do this in the near future (106k miles). Any tricks on the crank pulley bolt other than brute strength? I have to say, having never done one before, I am very intimidated and not looking forward to it. But I always dread a repair/maintenance until I do it once, then I am comfortable and even look forward to it the next time.

[FlatlandTRD]

Originally Posted by cackalak han

I need to do this in the near future (106k miles). Any tricks on the crank pulley bolt other than brute strength?

Either make the spanner-like-tool out of metal, or find one to rent. The two holes on the crank pulley are 2 7/8" center to center, the bolt a 19mm. The bar will rest against the frame, and a breaker bar with a pipe on the end will release the bolt.

Lining everything up, TDC, and putting the new belt on is simple. Cleaning the waterpump housing of all the old FIPG will probably be the most tedious part. It's easier to do eveything with the radiator out, but definitely not necessary, just protect it.

Like I mentioned, mine was fine and could have gone much longer with no worries. Since mine has been in the salt belt all it's life, that's pretty good. If the belt were to break, it would cause no damage other than inconvience (non interference). If the water pump were to fail, however, that would be very, very bad.

[Happy Trails]

Just had mine done at 90,000mi. Cost me $800 including tune-up and new wires. Ouch. I am not much
good with a wrench.

[BruceTS]

Since I've replaced timming belts in the past, this job is quite easy. On my 4Runner, I plan to wait til the belt breaks, before replacing. On the safe side, I already have a kit put together with all the parts/SST's to do the job. On long trips to kit goes with me, for local runs, it stays in my garage....

So far I've got almost 160K on the original belt, now I curious just how much longer it'll go. BTW I do remove the plastic timming cover to inspect the belt, especially before the longer trips. The belt still appears to be in excellent shape, no dry rot....

Another side note..... All my other belts are still factory originals, even though I really need to replace the AC belt, it squeals when I first turn it on......

[Blue77FJ40]

Isn't there an SST to push two pulleys apart? or any other SSTs?

[FlatlandTRD]

Originally Posted by Blue77FJ40

Isn't there an SST to push two pulleys apart? or any other SSTs?

Yes, they are all mentioned in the links and the FSM, but they are not required to do this job. You will only need to make/source the spanner type crank pulley tool to attack that bolt.

On another forum there's now a few who have made it past 200K, it's nice having a non-interference engine.

[jdunkman]

I bought all the parts to replace belt at 100k. Now at 230k, still have all teh parts to replace belt.