Set pre-load. This step has a difference of opinion. Some folks use a fish scale and some do it by feel. Most agree that the way they do it is the right one.
I'll repeat the steps from the FSM. Install the adjusting nut.
You adjust the pre-load using the 54mm socket. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs
turn the hub right two or three times. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs again.
Loosen the nut until the hub can be turned by hand.
Torque nut to 48
in lbf (Yes thats inch pounds) and make sure there is no play.
Using a spring tension gage (Fish scale) measure the pre-load. s/b between 6.4-12.6lbf. Adjust as required. You do this by hooking one end of the scale to the hub and seeing how much it takes to move the hub.
Here are two other methods:
Robbies
"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie"
Gumby/Landtank:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gumby
I think Landtank's method was the same as mine.
Tighten the inner nut to 45 lbs/ft, rotate, back off and repeat, then just until you feel resistance. Install the lock washer, then torque the outer nut to 45 lbs/ft.
I use a torque wrench for Cruisers because you need to use the socket. It's easy to get carried away with a 1/2 ratchet.
With cars and trailers I use a pair of channel locks. I've found that I get better feel for the pre-load torque.
The rear bearings do require the special alien landing ship tool.
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