[spartan]

I'll second that process...

[Nay]

You have to do the front that way - it doesn't flex anywhere near enough for a spring change. Rear is easy to do one side at a time. With the shocks I am running now, I can change rear springs in about 30 minutes by myself...and half that time is dealing with the tires.

Ken - your regular OME shocks are a bit short at this point. But if you plan to keep 33's...L's probably won't help you much. Why have less up travel and not have the bigger tires to go with it? If you are going up in tire size, you should absolutely get new shocks.

Nay

[Tools R Us]

Originally Posted by spartan

Shocks - take the top off first. Hit it quick with a 3/4 " impact and a long socket. It will come right off. Same for install. Impact will run the nut down before it has a chance to spin. Have someone just hand hold the piston shaft if needed.

A 3/4" impact! Holy overkill bat man. I have never been denied using a 3/8" on the shocks.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by Nay

Ken - your regular OME shocks are a bit short at this point. But if you plan to keep 33's...L's probably won't help you much. Why have less up travel and not have the bigger tires to go with it? If you are going up in tire size, you should absolutely get new shocks.

Nay

Thanks for the opinion that my current shocks are fine for my set-up

This mod was a simple and cheap mod ($100 after selling my old springs) to bring the truck slightly above the lift I had before I went and added all the accessories. Or to gain 1" in lift to my sagging medium set-up. $100 for an inch, best value dontcha think

I am going to keep it this way for a while.

But, if I do decide to go to 35's, then I will have to do the following. Install Cory's spacer in the front (Have them), Replace shocks with L Shocks. Swap out 863's for 863J's in rear, extended brake lines, New Control Arms or other methods to fix castor, REGEAR (expensive) plus the new tires.

So with the tires, I would be looking at $2K-$3K to make this mod.

And of course, I would have to then consider the Slee 4" lift.

On the otherhand, I could throw 35's (now 33's) on my FJ40 right now as I have the lift and shocks to handle it. I would probably want to regear it eventually, but that would be easier and cheaper and not as required since its not my DD..

Or, I could just take the $3K and get a supercharger

Decisions, decisions, decisions. If I only had $10K to just throw at both of my cruisers

Thanks for the input!

[semlin]

Originally Posted by nakman

just measured 22 5/8", looks like a 3" lift- Also 38" to the floor.. 850J, 33" Trxus, ARB, M12, Dual batts, snackster cooker. (863 rear)

ok got the new used 850J/863 coils on today. quite a surprise was awaiting me when I went to figure out how my new 863s were giving me 2 full inches of lift over the 860s that were on there.

rears are 39 3/8" ground to flare (24" centre hub to flare)
fronts are 37 5/8" ground to floor (23" centre hub to flare)

it turns out I now have Js front and rear . The mudmember who sold me 863s shipped me an 863 box but when i scraped the roadgunk off the "A" "B" stickers the coils were 863J. So I'm rolling on Js now I guess sure glad i ordered a longer rear brake line.

here are some shots showing progression from stock to 851/860 to 850j/863J. first two shots are on 265 Ats, last one is 285s. I am missing a shot of the truck with the medium lift on the current build (285 ATs, arb, warn 10k, hanna sliders, 4x4 lab bumper, rear seats in)

[semlin]

Also I can't resist this stat. The current clearance to the very bottom of my 4x4labs bumper at centre is 24"

[Romer]

Nice Simon! Any Castor issues