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Old 05-19-06, 09:36 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobi-arc
Ken, what type of engineer are you?


He builds spacecraft.


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Old 05-19-06, 10:47 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan
He builds spacecraft.

Lots to a spacecraft.

Ken, what kind of engineer are you?

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Old 05-20-06, 01:09 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobi-arc
Lots to a spacecraft.

Ken, what kind of engineer are you?
I am a EE. I use to design computers for spacecraft, moved on the managing product areas in the production of spacecraft. Now, I have been promoted beyond the fun stuff and don't get to engineer anymore.

I am sure your product is a fine product, but it exceeds my requirements and budget.

BUT if you want to give me one to install and review for the forum, that's another matter.

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Old 05-20-06, 08:17 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Ken; here's a link to the way I set up the Hellroaring unit:

http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/BattProj2/index.html

U can e-mail me if u would like to discuss same.
Site hasn't been updated in a while. System installed about 4 years now; works quite well.
Or u can call me at 303 584 9174

...

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Old 05-20-06, 09:24 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer
I am a EE.
Excellent. Then you know the difference between milliohms and micro-ohms of resistance and how that translates into heat. With respect to your offer, thank you, but unfortunately I don't think a Ken Romer freebee would yield the requisite marketing mileage, nor would it be fair to the Land Cruiser guys on this board who've purchased the device.

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Old 05-20-06, 09:49 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Oh well, Looking at your site and the Dual Battery Isolator Combiner would put the controller at $330 for a 200 Amp Unit. Although I do see some features that would be nice to have, they are still "nice to haves" and not requirements.

In my industry, when you let the engineers put all the "nice to haves" in a design is usually when you see large cost overruns and schedule delays.

Too bad you don't even offer a discount for mudders.

I am currently evaluating the manual painless ($150 total) vs the automatic Hellroaring ($250 total). Your system would be close to $400 when you add the wiring, connectors, etc.

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Old 05-20-06, 10:10 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Ken, certainly wish we could deliver the product at a more moderate price. It's funny how different markets react to pricing. We sell these devices to fleet operators; they go out the door as quickly as we can manufacture them. Those guys have choice of technologies and despite the price, P-GATE insures greater reliability and that's what they value. Our military customers don't have a choice. There simply is no other product on market that can switch [for their application] 400 amps continuous in a solid-state package. Off-road guys are all over the map.

You guys have a good weekend. As for us, we've been building seven days a week for months. We triple our office/manufacturing space come July, and I absolutely love working with this brilliant technology...my Land cruiser would be naked without it!!

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Old 05-21-06, 04:35 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Just bought the Optima Yellow top from Costco for $140. Installed it in the 2nd tray for now. So One battery is a gel pack Orbital and the other is a Yellow Top Optima.

Tomorrow I'll order the electronics and hopefully get them by Saturday for a weekend installl.

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Old 05-21-06, 06:47 PM   #39 (permalink)
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I just finished my dual battery install and used the very simple and manual method outlined by Boston Mangler.

Running the wire and being anal about it took the better part of the weekend and I was happy with the results.

Looking at some of the stuff you guys do and scheme on makes me feel like a real f*cking toadstool underachiever.

Where the hell do you find the time to even come up with this stuff?

AND THEN draw the schematics. Do you guys work?

Friggin milliampres and micropeptides create dual hermetically sealed charging units with overvolted dermatitis.

Too much hullabaloo for me...

Good information though...

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Old 05-21-06, 07:19 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Ken,

I see you've been inundated with bunch of ideas, opinions, etc.. Well, here's another one....get one of these and forget about it. If I were to do it again, I'd prolly go with this for simplicity:

http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ODY-PC2150

I know this is a total 180* going the opposite direction but it's an idea!

I have a Wrangler NW dual batt system and it's been doing great. I think it's similar to the Painless system: charge both batts/charge main batt or jump start from aux batt. Main battery is an Exide Orbital starting only, Aux batt is a Yellow Top Optima dual purpose.

Having a strictly deep cycle batt for main batt is a bad idea IMO. Winching and starting require heavy but short hits and the marines aren't up to it. Furthermore, they prefer a long, slow recharging which doesn't happen sitting as the main battery.

Happy hunting

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Old 05-22-06, 03:23 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Thanks for all your inputs. After much deliberation between the painless and Hellroaring, I went with the Hellroaring and ordered it today for a weekend install. The Hellroaring would give me the manual configuration capability plus the automatic configuration and protection capability.

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Old 05-22-06, 03:41 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer
Thanks for all your inputs. After much deliberation between the painless and Hellroaring, I went with the Hellroaring and ordered it today for a weekend install. The Hellroaring would give me the manual configuration capability plus the automatic configuration and protection capability.
Romer, if you don't mind, what was the kit cost?

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Old 05-22-06, 04:05 PM   #43 (permalink)
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It's actually on their web site in the order form

$179.95 for kit
175 Watt Fuse and Holder $19.5
Spare Fuse $7.50
Remote $42.95

All I need to do is buy some extra wire.

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Old 05-22-06, 04:59 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Ken;

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the terminals used on the HR unit. They are sized for the HR unit. Don't lose one because they will be hard to replace. If u need some help, let me know.

...

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Old 05-24-06, 06:40 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Does anyone know whta the milli amp draw of the Hellroaring unit is compared to the P Gate?

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Old 04-03-07, 06:58 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I for one like the questions...as they are in-line with my "A Type" research oriented personality and the constant quest for the best that suits my specific needs. He asked the same questions I was thinking about but did not post..

Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Romer, you put way too much thought into your mods. I realize your questioning is intentfully pedagogical, but good gawd man just buy one already


See? you already answered your own question. They're all great. You're welcome to mess with my hellroaring next time we hang out, I'll second the comment that he's a cool guy as well. Only time I've ever had to use it was when I left the seat heater on for a week in the garage, but it sure was cool to flip the switch & jump myself. Man that was as move, ok back to

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Old 04-03-07, 07:52 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filmpros View Post
I for one like the questions...as they are in-line with my "A Type" research oriented personality and the constant quest for the best that suits my specific needs. He asked the same questions I was thinking about but did not post..
nakman and I are friends, he was just ribbing me. He knows I approach each project like an engineer, like I happen to be.

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97 LX450, Supercharged, Locked, and lots of other stuff ROTW
96 LX450 - ROD's
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Old 04-03-07, 10:29 AM   #48 (permalink)
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It makes perfect sense to over think and over engineer mods to an over built vehicle.

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Old 04-09-07, 10:09 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Been reading this thread with interest tonight, as I just got an Engel dual battery isolator off eBay for about $100 (THEN went looking for info on mud...). Looks like it simply connects the second battery + to the main battery + (which is connected to the alternator for charging of course). It senses the main battery voltage, cutting the second battery out of connection with the main/alt when the main voltage drops below 11.4v, and allows the second to reconnect for charging only when the main is back above 13.2v. So just prioritiizes the charging power of the alternator to main when it is low, then back to both when main is >13.2 again. This seems like an OK system, and simple to install.
Previous post suggested a 150amp fuse between the isolator and main, in case the main is dead, it won't drain the second all at once, but it seems that the Engel system, with the second being cut off when the main is <11.4v, would offer protection from that scenario. Or am I wrong here? Should I drop in a big-Amp fuse?

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Old 04-10-07, 06:19 AM   #50 (permalink)
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It is recommended that you fuse EACH battery. This is for protection from shorts, not so much to protect the batteries.

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