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Old 05-01-06, 11:47 AM   #1
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For FAQ - Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Per request, post up your maintenance tips and tricks to keep our cruisers in tip top form.

Keep chat to a minimum, but feel free to ask questions to clarify.

Who wants to go first and discuss the tablespoon of Downey in the power steering fluid?


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Old 05-01-06, 12:12 PM   #2
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#1) A wood 2x6 strattled between each front fender is helpful for "getting up" into the engine bay. I stapled padding on each end where it contacts the fenders. This is a nice rest for elbows or knees depending on the job. Helps changing that #6 plug.

Also helps keep from putting pressure on the plastic rad. in the 95+ models.

#2) Slotting the backside bold tab on the Fuel Filter is a must for reinstallment ease - (Thanks Christo)


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Old 05-01-06, 03:41 PM   #3
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Mobil 1 oil bottle/jug will screw right into the top of a 1FZ.

So if you're real cheap, you can get every last drop out!


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Old 05-01-06, 06:01 PM   #4
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Before you change your oil, use dishwashing liquid like hand lotion. Get your skin and cuticles really wet with the soap, the wipe excess off. It will keep the oil from staining your hands, so cleaning your greasy hands will be a lot easier.

Wet down the concrete under your truck before changing the oil. It keeps the spills from staining the concrete, and most will wipe up leaving no stain at all. It also helps keep the newspaper from blowing around that I put down in case of spills.


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Old 05-01-06, 07:32 PM   #5
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If you're a Southern East Coast wheeler and having trouble cleaning of the clay mud associated with UREs and other places in the area off the bottom of your truck try this:
Soak the bottom of your truck with a sprinkler for a few hours, then after it stops dripping, spray some Purple Power or other similar degreaser mixed 50/50 with water, let soak in for a few minutes, then hit it with a garden hose. Gets 80% of it off, pressure washer or a roll of the cloth-like paper towels and some elbow grease works will get the rest, but you'll probably get a little wet.


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Old 05-02-06, 07:30 PM   #6
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1. for the past year I've been using latex gloves to do most work on my vehicles. They're cheap and keep my hands quite clean. Yes, they will rip and tear, but they're cheap and bought in bulk packages. My hands are far cleaner now after walking out of the garage that I don't have to try and use my elbows to open the door on the house. I wish I started doing this 15 years ago. If anything, the gloves make it easier to hold on to nuts and bolts. I buy the 100 pack of gloves available in the pharmacy deparment at most retailers such as Walmart, Target, Kmart, etc.... As soon as one rips, I put another one on (or sometimes double glove). If you're allergic to latex, use latex-free gloves such as the purple nitrile gloves.

2. When waxing a vehicle, I also wax the glass, inside and out. It makes the glass look like new and debris doesn't stick to it as well. I also wax the tail light lenses and other plastic lenses because it can remove the dull faded look.

3. Leave a hitch in the receiver, even if you don't tow. It keeps the idiots that pull right up behind you from damaging expensive stuff. I've had 5 idiots hit my hitch in the last 3 years. It damaged their vehicle, but not mine! I lived between 2 colleges, and every one of them that hit me was a college student (and usually on the cell phone not paying attention to stopping a safe distance).

4. If the clear plastic lense over the cluster gauges (speedo, tach, etc...) is all scratched up, try buffing or color sanding. See a write-up I did on color sanding on my website:

http://www.geocities.com/toyotashawn/colorsanding.html

This can also work for tail light lenses, headlight housings, etc... My site shows seperate products available to use, but I've seen "headlight polish" kits on the counters at local auto parts stores lately.


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Old 05-10-06, 05:58 AM   #7
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2. When waxing a vehicle, I also wax the glass, inside and out. It makes the glass look like new and debris doesn't stick to it as well. I also wax the tail light lenses and other plastic lenses because it can remove the dull faded look.


This also helps the water to bead when washing and in the rain. You don't get water marks as bad. Also when driving the water beads run off the glass better so in light rain you don't need the wipers as much


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Old 01-14-07, 04:21 PM   #8
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anyone have experience replacing the rear window cylinders on a 94 FJ80? It was no problem to remove the cylinders with brackets, but how do you remove the bracket from the cylinder? any help would be greatly appreciated.
stock FJ80 with 196K miles(original owner)
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Old 01-14-07, 05:14 PM   #9
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I am also curious about the Downey in the power steering. I've heard of it but I don't know what it does or how much, etc.
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Old 01-14-07, 05:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatopants View Post
I am also curious about the Downey in the power steering. I've heard of it but I don't know what it does or how much, etc.
I did this after a trip up the switchbacks from Sedona I had a little growl going and I added 1 capful (~1.5 fl oz) to the reservoir. hasn't made any more growling since.

When I flush my PS system for the Summer, I'll put a capful in then too. Maybe "Spring Fresh"


Dave


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Old 01-14-07, 05:47 PM   #11
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When flushing / draining the coolant, engine oil, or removing the oil filter, I use a cleaned out chlorine bucket left over from pool maintenance. The height of the bucket allows it to slide right under a stock height 80 for any of these tasks.

The screw on lid also keeps the old fluid contained and spill proof for the trip to the proper depository.

The plastic grocery bags we all now get can be used to store the old filter and allows it to be put in the box the new one came with for tidy throw away in the trash. I take my old oil filters to the auto parts store along with the old oil. (I don't know wat they do with them).

I use about ten gallons (2 buckets) of chlorine a year and those buckets get used for all kinds of stuff.


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Old 01-14-07, 06:04 PM   #12
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Buy one of these tire steps


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Old 01-14-07, 06:31 PM   #13
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I use a "piddle pad" available from any pet store to catch the oil from the oil filter during oil changes. I cut it in half, slip it under the filter to make a cup shape, then take off the filter. I wrap the the pad around the filter, and remove it.

I use the other half of the pad under the truck to catch any stray drips.

I use the 4 quart mobil 1 jugs from walmart. Ive kept a couple I mark used and pour the oil into them, and dump em at the auto parts store. Occasionally (after gear oil changes), I'll cycle in some new mobil 1 jugs.

Some 240 grit sandpaper helps get those stubborn oil filters off.

The cheapest kitty litter you can find works great for taking oil/grease out of concrete. pour some on your spill, grind it in with your shoe. The following day, the stain will be gone.

Instead of keeping a full roll of duct tape, wrap it around a 1/2" piece of pvc pipe.


I wetsanded and buffed the headlights on my wifes 98 dodge avenger. They looked like total crap. used 600 grit sandpaper, some vehicle polishing compound and an orbital buffer. Finished em up with some meguiars plast-x plastic compound. They look almost brand new, and the brightness from them is amazing (cant wait to put the HIR's in her car)

A little bit of candle wax makes wood screws (and sheet metal screws) go in easier.

I keep some grocery bags, or large plastic shoppin bags in the LX for hiking trips. The muddy boots/dirty clothes go into the bags for the ride home.

Stoner's Invisible Glass is the best glass cleaner I've used. Doesnt leave any streaks inside or outside. Two coats of rain-x on the outside glass and youre good to go. Also works great on the headlight lenses on the LX.

A very good tip is to make slightly enlarged copies of your drivers license and insurance cards (both sides, of your health ins card). Also put any medical issues/allergies, and "who to call if you find me/this phone #'s". Laminate or put in a sealed bag keep in your backpack/lifejacket, etc.


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Old 05-23-07, 12:29 PM   #14
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Along the lines of the piddle pad, I use diapers to catch draining fluids. They have the advantage of having velcro tabs that can be used to wrap the diaper tightly around any hose or other leaky thing. Although I only have 33" tires, I still et alot of the air out when working on my truck cause it makes working on the truck less hard on my calves. Another one that I was not so proud of purchasing is a hot water bottle with all the attachments. I use this bottle to fill hard to get at things with lube. For example the tcase. I used to always nearly give myself a hernia trying to fill that darn thing. Now I just fill the bottle, stuff the hose, and lean on it to fill.

Karl


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Old 05-23-07, 12:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan E View Post
Before you change your oil, use dishwashing liquid like hand lotion. Get your skin and cuticles really wet with the soap, the wipe excess off. It will keep the oil from staining your hands, so cleaning your greasy hands will be a lot easier.

Wet down the concrete under your truck before changing the oil. It keeps the spills from staining the concrete, and most will wipe up leaving no stain at all. It also helps keep the newspaper from blowing around that I put down in case of spills.
You could also wear Latex gloves...they actually work really well, and give you a bit more grip on the oil filter

barrypt5


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Old 05-23-07, 12:48 PM   #16
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I use rainX on my side windows, mirrors, rear window, and backup camera to keep them cleaner longer. It keeps dirt from sticking to them for several months. I just refresh the applciation when they start to get dirty again. I don't use it on the front window because the wiper action rubs it off and also keeps the chip filling kits from working (the filler won't go into the chip if you ever used rainX on the window).


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Old 05-23-07, 05:53 PM   #17
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A 1 gallon distilled water jug cut in half makes a great funnel to go in the radiator top hose when refilling.

My tailgate was stiff and required effort to open and close. That is until I accidentally tried to close a 1" diameter 18" long wooden dowel in the gap between the hinges. It had fallen in and I didn't know it. Don't ask me to explain it, but the tailgate now works great.

Using air, it takes me less time to remove the front seats, use a shop vac, then put the seats back in than it does to clean around and under them. (At your own risk, YMMV)

If you have a Slee rear bumper/carrier, it -IS- possible to close it one handed. Pull the pin with your right hand, balance on your left foot with your back to the tire and pull with your right heel and pivot your body until it crosses out of the pin hole and grab it. A dance done when bringing in the last of the groceries and not wanting to come back out just to close the truck.


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Old 05-23-07, 06:31 PM   #18
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The first time I had to put tranny fluid in I realised my funnel would not work. So I cut the bottom out of a used gear oil bottle and it worked like a champ. The pointed cap fits in the dipstick perfectly. Five years later and that is still what I use today, same one as a matter of fact.

Buck Buchanan


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