Timing Adjustment for a 3FE Motor

Cruiser Jimmy · 04-24-06, 07:42 PM

Many threads have been raised regarding how to time a 3FE motor. Many have contributed to the cause of helping a fellow MUD'er out when in need but I have not run across an illustrated thread. Well, you can thank our current Moderator [Ken Romer] for asking someone to post up some 3FE threads to add to the FAQ's for us 3FE guys. So here goes.

0. Warm up the engine to operating temperature.

1. Loosen the bolt that holds the distributor. Don't remove the bolt.

2. Monitor the engine idle RPM. Idle rpm should be 650 rpm. The tach in the dash cluster can be used to monitor the rpm's but the FSM states that you should connect a tachometer test prove to terminal [IG] on the diagnostic's box.

3. In the diagnostic box, use a small diameter piece of wire and connect Terminal TE1 and E1. Recheck the rpm's.

4. Connect a timing light to number 1 cylinder spark plug lead.

5. Aim the timing light at the back of the engine on the passengers side as in Pic 2. Turn the distributor so that you see the large circle align with the small wire probe. You'll see the circle move back and forth as you move the distributor. This is what the FSM calls for timing, when the large circle and the wire mark are aligned, it's 7º BTDC.

Pic 1: Diagnostic box showing terminal TE1 and E1 connected.

Pic 2: Location of timing access view whole.

Pic 3: Shows the timing mark and TDC mark. The large circle is the 7º Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The two small circles are Top Dead Center (TDC).

Good luck.

Cruiser Jimmy · 04-24-06, 08:13 PM

Some additionally notes:

You're going to have a hard time getting a line of sight if this is your first time timing the rig. Find your best line, it'll come to ya.

If you can't get the engine to idle at 650 rpms, you could have the idle adjustment not set property and/or the TPS sensor [Pic 2] is out of adjustment.

Adjust the idle screw to the desired 650 rpms [Pic 1]. (When my idle was not right I adjusted the idle screw.) That did not work so I took off the throttle body and cleaned it out [Pic 2]. There was a lot of carbon build up in the two hose ports on the top of the TB. Cleaning those up and the general cleaning of the TB fixed the problem. I could get the idle back down to 650.

While the throttle body was off, I took the TPS off as to not contaminate it. To put in back on and adjusted it property takes an ohm meter. The TPS must be set right for the proper signal to register at the computer.

RavenTai · 04-25-06, 07:57 PM

your write up came in quite handy,

Thank you

Cruiser Jimmy · 05-06-06, 07:36 AM

alkaline747trio,
Did you get your distrubutor fixed?

RT,
Thanks man.

alkaline747trio · 05-06-06, 08:57 AM

Yea, got it to turn after some PB Blaster and a pair of Channelocks. Set it to 11 deg. and no pinging. Definatly has a little more pep now.

ezgrand · 12-15-06, 06:29 PM

Hello!

I am new to the FJ80 3FE engine. Compared to a 2LTE Diesel LJ78 Prado, this engine is totally alien to me!

Anyway, I can't seem to find the timing hole!

Could someone reply with where exactly this hole is . What is it next to? Close to starter? All I know is that it is somewhere in the rear, passener side.

The picture is too focused on the hole and does not give a reference to parts close to it.

Thanks!

nikos · 02-28-07, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklubens

Some additionally notes:

You're going to have a hard time getting a line of sight if this is your first time timing the rig. Find your best line, it'll come to ya.

If you can't get the engine to idle at 650 rpms, you could have the idle adjustment not set property and/or the TPS sensor [Pic 2] is out of adjustment.

Adjust the idle screw to the desired 650 rpms [Pic 1]. (When my idle was not right I adjusted the idle screw.) That did not work so I took off the throttle body and cleaned it out [Pic 2]. There was a lot of carbon build up in the two hose ports on the top of the TB. Cleaning those up and the general cleaning of the TB fixed the problem. I could get the idle back down to 650.

While the throttle body was off, I took the TPS off as to not contaminate it. To put in back on and adjusted it property takes an ohm meter. The TPS must be set right for the proper signal to register at the computer.

Can you give us info how did you adjust tps using ohm-meter...... any ohm references ect?

Best regards

RavenTai · 02-28-07, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezgrand

Hello!

I am new to the FJ80 3FE engine. Compared to a 2LTE Diesel LJ78 Prado, this engine is totally alien to me!

Anyway, I can't seem to find the timing hole!

Could someone reply with where exactly this hole is . What is it next to? Close to starter? All I know is that it is somewhere in the rear, passener side.

The picture is too focused on the hole and does not give a reference to parts close to it.

Thanks!

If you look at the picture you can see the end of the side cover on the engine, that should get you in the area, the hole will be covered by a plate held on with one 10mm bolt.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

Can you give us info how did you adjust tps using ohm-meter...... any ohm references ect?

Best regards

the manual has this info.

MJADDICTION · 02-28-07, 08:56 PM

I did this a couple of days ago. Thanks for the write-up. I have used so many things from this site lately. This is one of the best. My 3FE is runnin' great...

Thanks!!

PHAEDRUS · 02-28-07, 11:40 PM

Raven,
The 91 and 92 3FE port is actually covered by a rubber plug, look in the second pic that jklubens put up, follow the heating line rail along the head and at the back of the block you will see the plug you are looking for.
Dave

nikos · 03-01-07, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RavenTai

If you look at the picture you can see the end of the side cover on the engine, that should get you in the area, the hole will be covered by a plate held on with one 10mm bolt.

the manual has this info.

I dont have an FSM............ :(

Can you support us with one scan from fsm to get info regarding tps adjust?

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-01-07, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

I dont have an FSM............ :(

Can you support us with one scan from fsm to get info regarding tps adjust?

Nikos,
I'll see if I can get some pics up on the TPS tonight for ya.

Are you able to buy an FSM in Poland or do you need someone to help out with the logistics?

RavenTai · 03-01-07, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nikos

I dont have an FSM............ :(

Can you support us with one scan from fsm to get info regarding tps adjust?

no sorry, my 1990 FSM is in FL with my FJ62.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHAEDRUS

Raven,
The 91 and 92 3FE port is actually covered by a rubber plug,

that is interesting. I am surprised that they changed it.

treehugger · 03-01-07, 03:02 PM

very cool

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-01-07, 06:19 PM

Nikos,

if you take the electrical connector off you will see four electrical leads.
From the top (closest to the hood) to the bottom the name of the wires are:
VC
VTA
IDL
E2

Legally I can reproduce the page from the FSM. But in summary, here's what you need to do:

1. disconnect the sensor connector.
2. insert a thickness guage between the throttle stop screw and stop lever. (This is on the opposite side of the TPS.)
3. With an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between each terminal.

At 0.0mm clearance between lever and stop screw the resistance should be 0.3-6.3kΩ between terminals VTA-E2.
At 0.77mm clearance between lever and stop screw the resistance should be less than 2.3kΩ between terminals IDL-E2
At 1.09mm clearance between lever and stop screw the resistance should be infinity between terminals IDL-E2
At 'throttle valve fully opened position' clearance between lever and stop screw the resistance should be 3.5-10.3kΩ between terminals VTA-E2
At '-' clearance between lever and stop screw the resistance should be 4.25-8.25kΩ between terminals VC-E2.

livelarg · 03-01-07, 09:51 PM

This is a great thread, I am about to tune-up my truck, and I am having trouble getting my truck down to 650 rpm. I will follow your thread and try th cleaning of the AFM and see what happens.

Thanks

MoGas · 01-19-08, 01:26 PM

I can NOT get a good sight line to the flywheel marks.

92 FJ80 3FE

Dave

RavenTai · 01-19-08, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MoGas

I can NOT get a good sight line to the flywheel marks.

92 FJ80 3FE

Dave

It is difficult but doable

MoGas · 01-19-08, 10:01 PM

I used an inspection mirror. The fellow aircraft guys know these well.

Cruiser Jimmy · 01-25-08, 10:27 AM

I sometimes view it from the front on the engine bay. I have to move some wires and hoses to get a some what good line of sight.

TN_LandCruiser · 01-25-08, 10:45 AM

I see references to the factory setting of 7* BTDC, and one other that references 11* BTDC...does anyone have input on other various degrees and how it effected their performance AND gas mileage?

Thanks!

joedm · 02-23-09, 03:13 AM

hi there,

ok, maybe I'm just going crazy but I looked and I swear I can't find it...
I spent a good 30 mins with my head in that engine bay..

I couldn't find anything that looked like that timing window...

Plus I have another issue..

My cheapo timing light needs to be connected in series with the spark plug and lead from cylinder 1.

I'm guessing I'm gonna have to try and source the FSM.
Anyone know where we can get these in pdf form nowadays? Or portions of it?

RavenTai · 02-23-09, 11:11 AM

See the second picture at the top of the thread, the panel in the picture is the right side cover of the engine, follow it all the way to the back where the block flares to meet the bell housing you will find the cover/plug for the timing window.

PabloCruise · 03-22-09, 08:49 AM

Question, are you supposed to set timing ONLY at 7* BTDC on 3FE and let ECU do the rest, or can you advance initial setting a little?

I live at ~5000' and have timing over 7* BTDC on my 2F for power/vacuum, but not sure if that will mess with the 3FE ECU...

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-22-09, 09:42 AM

I have heard that others have played with the timing a little for more power. However, it's a good idea to adjust the MAF sensor also so the engine does not knock.

I have had the timing at 12º before. That was during the winter, then as the seasons changed I adjusted back down 7 because I started to get pre-detonation.

Johann Botha · 11-07-09, 08:53 AM

Please help..I'm replacing the distributor on my fj60 but now i can't get the motor going! I did mark the old distributor body in relation to the block with the the rotor facing number1 and the full circle mark lined up with the timing peg. The mark is similar to your pic but further from the fw's outer edge. \before I put in the new dizzy I removed the rocker cover to make sure that no1 had both valves closed and no6 was rocking. However, I'm not sure about the timing mark on the flywheel. Apart from the circle mark, there is also a semi circle mark the same distance from the fw's edge. If i line the new dizzy up with the full circle, no1 is not on compression stroke, so i lined it up with the semi circle which was perfect...but she will not start. Even if i turn the distributor body in both directions while someone else cranks the engine! There is spark and the contact breaker gap is correct. I'm confused... please help...

PabloCruise · 11-08-09, 07:10 AM

Hi Johann, and welcome to MUD!

A few items:

If you are working on an FJ60 (w/ manual trans) your flywheel will look different than the automatic tranny flywheel pictured. You will have a 2F vs. the 3FE we are discussing primarily in this thread. The 2F and 3FE are very similar. Your flywheel will have a line for TDC and a "ball" or "BB" sticking out of the flywheel for 7 degrees BTDC.

When you have the line or BB in the timing window, and cylinder #1 as at TDC, I believe your rotor should be pointing towards the cylinder #4 vicinity.

Try these out and let us know!

What year is your 60? Where are you located?

Good luck!