[turbocruiser]

Hi fellas, wanted to write to share another simple project…

When Robbie was working with my motor I was surprised by several things that really revealed how invasive and pervasive carbon contamination is starting with the whole intake system and then continuing through the motor depositing carbon and contaminates on virtually each and every surface and finally exiting through the exhaust while still depositing carbon and contaminates.

On the one hand we were pleasantly pleased with how little carbon and contaminates were deposited on my cylinder walls, piston tops, or valves and I attribute that to the regular usage of BG 44K. I was also pleasantly pleased with how little carbon or contaminates were on my turbo exit tube or in my exhaust either before or after my cat. This I also attribute to the regular usage of BG 44K. However throughout the intake system ( upper and lower intake plenums, intake side of head, etc ) there were thick layers of carbon and crap that were so thick and so strong that nothing short of soaking in the machine shop solvent tank though the night would remove them. I regularly use the BG air intake cleaner and while this made the throttle body completely clean it apparently did absolutely nothing to clean the intake system past the throttle body.

I know that carbon can cause all sorts of problems from less intake and exhaust efficiency, to predetonation problems, sticky rings, sticky valves, scored cylinders, and dirtier emissions and dirtier oil. I decided to do something to totally prevent future problems resulting from carbon. By the time Robbie was done working my motor was sparkly and shiny inside and I wanted to totally keep things that way.

After much research I realized that the simplest way to prevent the problems that were not worked out with regular usage of BG 44K (from combustion chamber on) was to install extremely effective catch cans to catch any and all traces of unburnt oil from the turbo air exchange system and also any and all traces of burnt carbon and contaminates from the PCV system.

After even more research I decided on the “Accurate Machine Works” catch cans and ordered one with 5/8” inlet and outlet for the turbo air exchange system and one with 3/8” inlet and outlet for the PCV air recirculation system. The AMW catch cans are a wonderful work of art; completely CNC machined for precision and purpose through and through. These are not average catch cans like the Greddy catch can I originally purchased which would honestly do almost nothing to catch the crap our engines repeatedly regurgitate. If yer interested, take a looksee at the setup I fabbedup and tellme whatchya think…

First a foto of the completely cleaned motor sans head...

[turbocruiser]

Pics Of Catch Can Contraption...

1st Pic = Lower Part Of Can Without Top

2nd Pic = Interior Of Can Including Undercuts To Prevent Oil Creep Up Can Wall

3rd Pic = Top Part Of Can Without Bottom

The air stream with oil and carbon and contaminates flows through the top and through the stainless steel string and stainless steel separator in the top condensing from vapor to liquid and dropping to the catch can lower level. Then the air stream flows out the can through the lower part outlet. Approximately 98% of all contaminates are caught and can be drained by opening the drain during oil changes. I expect upwards of three tablespoons of unburt oil coming out of the turbo side and prolly one tablespoon of burnt oil coming out of the PCV side.

[turbocruiser]

More Pics Of Catch Can Separating Section and Home Made Mounting Bracket Mounted...

[turbocruiser]

Pics Of Catch Cans Installed, One On RS For Turbo, One On LS For PCV...

Both Cans Mounted In Same Symmetrical Spot In Engine Bay, Both Cans Using Gates Fuel Line ...
5/8 for one, 3/8 for other...

Hope You Likee...

[turbocruiser]

One More Shot Of System As A Whole...

But first a link to the catch can company ...

http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm

[tarbe]

We think alike...I used a Greddy and put it on the opposite side, between the air filter cannister and the overflow bottle. The Greddy was a little too large to comfortably go over by my brake booster.

I had seen enough crap in these motors, as well as in my own PCV hose, to figure a little cleaning up of the PCV gas would be worthwhile.

[Mr.Bryan]

dude, your engine bay is waaaaaaaaayyyy to clean... at least put some of that spray on mud stuff on it.

oh and for relivance, what the deuce is bg 44k?

[gnx7]

LS1 guys use that same catch can even naturally aspirated guys. I'm curious to see how much oil it catches.

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by tarbe

We think alike...I used a Greddy and put it on the opposite side, between the air filter cannister and the overflow bottle. The Greddy was a little too large to comfortably go over by my brake booster.

I had seen enough crap in these motors, as well as in my own PCV hose, to figure a little cleaning up of the PCV gas would be worthwhile.

Cool, the only thing I did not like about the Greddy is that there is no baffling between the inlet and outlet. Under boost I can simply see the airstream take a turn and go right back out again with all the crap. It did catch alotta contaminates but I would venture worse than 50% of the crap. I wanted 100% outta there. Still the Greddy is good prolly perfectly good for NA vehicles. Cool again!

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by Mr.Bryan

dude, your engine bay is waaaaaaaaayyyy to clean... at least put some of that spray on mud stuff on it.

oh and for relivance, what the deuce is bg 44k?

Thanks, actually I think that there is somewhat dirty - way toomuch water spots!

BG 44K is the only Fuel System Cleaner i think works well, Chevron Techron is good but BG 44K is absolutely awesome! HTH

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by gnx7

LS1 guys use that same catch can even naturally aspirated guys. I'm curious to see how much oil it catches.

I can already tell you it catches alotta crap! I'll measure over 3000k on our oil changes. It really is absolutely awesome quality, I highly recommend it.

[alaskacruiser]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

Cool, the only thing I did not like about the Greddy is that there is no baffling between the inlet and outlet. ... It did catch alotta contaminates but I would venture worse than 50% of the crap.

turbo- excellent idea! I am a little confused about one thing from your above post- did you have the Greddy catch can installed before? If so, when and how long was it installed before you had your HG done?

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by alaskacruiser

turbo- excellent idea! I am a little confused about one thing from your above post- did you have the Greddy catch can installed before? If so, when and how long was it installed before you had your HG done?

Thanks AC, yes I have a Greddy catch can it was installed for less than two hundred miles, I removed it when it was clear that the oil simply took the turn from inlet to outlet; both tubes were equally oily. Keep in mind my boost accelerates the airstream enough that bunches of baffling and airstream management is required. HTH.

[clownmidget]

Nice. I'll be doing this exact install just as soon as I can order those. Thanks for the linky. Did you buy direct or from ???

Can you either post or email me pics of the precise plumbing you are using for both? Mine is just a little different and I'd like a comparo. Also, do you have a one-way valve on your fuel return charcoal canister? Can't see it in the pics.

[tarbe]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

Cool, the only thing I did not like about the Greddy is that there is no baffling between the inlet and outlet.

Unless you add your own! All you need to do is simulate a distillation column...

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by clownmidget

Nice. I'll be doing this exact install just as soon as I can order those. Thanks for the linky. Did you buy direct or from ???

Can you either post or email me pics of the precise plumbing you are using for both? Mine is just a little different and I'd like a comparo. Also, do you have a one-way valve on your fuel return charcoal canister? Can't see it in the pics.

Hi Mike, you betcha, I'll PM the part numbers from McMaster. I ordered the cans direct from the company, specifically the engineer who engineered it and who is an absolutely avid car crazy weekend racer, I'll PM that too, he actually custom cut the threads for the larger catch can for me, super cool person.

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by tarbe

Unless you add your own! All you need to do is simulate a distillation column...

Easier said than done; the inlet and outlet are separated by about an inch or half an inch ... perhaps using another fitting that takes the airstream to the bottom of the can via a hose and then putting some stainless steel string above that like a little nest??? Even then there is no way to drain the damn thing, trust me I really researched the helloutta this, if ya want a Greddy catch can for cheap to re-engineer, let me know, I'll sell ya mine...it even has "TRD" stamped into it making it even more effective!

[RavenTai]

I ditched my catch can because it was a pain to drain, but wile I had it I was quite surprised by how quickly it filled up, that unit you found looks superior,

What about soot/carbon from the EGR system? Any plans?

the inlet system of the 1FZ does get pretty fouled up. the 3FE is even worse.

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

I ditched my catch can because it was a pain to drain, but wile I had it I was quite surprised by how quickly it filled up, that unit you found looks superior,

What about soot/carbon from the EGR system? Any plans?

the inlet system of the 1FZ does get pretty fouled up. the 3FE is even worse.

Thanks RT, only real plans at present for EGR is continued regular usage of BG 44K, thats not the final answer but the only one on my mind for now. I would love to learn of any appropriate suggestions for that (IOW something other than removing the EGR!), I hate having that crap circulate through the motor. I was thinking through tapping a hole through that tube on the intake to clean the thing prior to performing oil changes...its not a total prevention thing but its a regular cleaning routine that might make some difference. I will say I was surprised that that tube was not dirtier, I would venture to guess the PCV adds much more dirt than the EGR after seeing the inside of the intake however that is totally unexpected!?!

[Dusty]

This all sounds cool and I hope it works-if it does I'll get one too. but if there isn't any oil in comming from the spicket of that that catcher thing a few months from now at oil change we must conclude it doesn't work. time will tell. I'm a half full sort of guy. I've yet to hear a post of anyone on this forum who had a clean engine at 100,000 miles regardless of what they feed it and even the anal ones still have HG problems. I wonder if it is some sort of holy grail we is looking for-like finding a virgin in a brothel.
dusty

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by Dusty

This all sounds cool and I hope it works-if it does I'll get one too. but if there isn't any oil in comming from the spicket of that that catcher thing a few months from now at oil change we must conclude it doesn't work. time will tell. I'm a half full sort of guy. I've yet to hear a post of anyone on this forum who had a clean engine at 100,000 miles regardless of what they feed it and even the anal ones still have HG problems. I wonder if it is some sort of holy grail we is looking for-like finding a virgin in a brothel.
dusty

How dare you speak of my own sweet sister like that!!!


Seriously, I already know it works because between all the various variations of plumbing and routing and whatsnot from start to finish of perfecting this project, I saw enough oil oozing down the inlet line and into the separating section and into the collection section but NONE coming out the outlet lines. It will make a major difference.

[tarbe]

I'll try to post a couple of pics of the Greddy install. I put a baffle roughly down the center and cut it up a little to create folds and surfaces at different angles. Then I added a 3" hose on the inlet so the air comes out closer to the bottom of the can.

The bottom of the can had a layer of oil in it after 75 miles! Now I know where the oil was going!

[tarbe]

One more of the install....

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by tarbe

I'll try to post a couple of pics of the Greddy install. I put a baffle roughly down the center and cut it up a little to create folds and surfaces at different angles. Then I added a 3" hose on the inlet so the air comes out closer to the bottom of the can.

The bottom of the can had a layer of oil in it after 75 miles! Now I know where the oil was going!

That is cool and clever! Its hard to see how all the airstream gets outta there though? How do you drain it without removing the whole thing? Again, cool and clever way to work it! Ohh, one suggestion now that you posted that third pic, if you put the can in cooler area the oil will condense more rapidly; you want the can to be at basically the coolest point possible to assist with condensation.

[tarbe]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

Even then there is no way to drain the damn thing, trust me I really researched the helloutta this, if ya want a Greddy catch can for cheap to re-engineer, let me know, I'll sell ya mine...it even has "TRD" stamped into it making it even more effective!

Come on now! You are smarter than this

Your Greddy has three holes in it's side that are plugged from the factory. You use two of them for your sight tube. The third can easily be used as a drain.

Or, you can remove one of the two large hoses, shove the tube of your Tempo Oil Boy or Pella extractor or Mity Vac and suck it dry. Once every 10,000 should do it, as big as the Greddy is.

If anyone is thinking of doing this, steal Turbo's Greddy from him, now!

[tarbe]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

Ohh, one suggestion now that you posted that third pic, if you put the can in cooler area the oil will condense more rapidly; you want the can to be at basically the coolest point possible to assist with condensation.

Well, not to be argumentative but I disagree, especially if you live in a place with a real winter. These buggers will fill up with mostly water in the winter and they will freeze solid and stop your PCV, which we all know is bad for oil seals.

In fact, I would not run one of these in the winter at all if I was in my native Wisconsin. Down here in Houston there is no issue. I would insulate it and the hoses at the very least.

We had lots of fellows freeze up in the winter when we were doing similar mods on TDI VWs.

BTW, next to the washer bottle shouldn't be too hot?? I think that pic is a little deceiving. The can is on the fender between the air cleaner and overflow, next to the washer bottle. It kinda looks like it is next to the exhaust in the pic, but it isn't.

[tarbe]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

What about soot/carbon from the EGR system? Any plans?

the inlet system of the 1FZ does get pretty fouled up. the 3FE is even worse.

The great thing is, if you remove the oil, the egr fouling is much less likely to stick around. It looses its "glue", the oil.

[tarbe]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

I removed it when it was clear that the oil simply took the turn from inlet to outlet; both tubes were equally oily. Keep in mind my boost accelerates the airstream enough that bunches of baffling and airstream management is required. HTH.

I have to believe your turbo was just too much for the stock Greddy. Mine catches oil even in stock form and, as mentioned earlier, in very few miles there was visible collection on the bottom of the can.

Looks like you found a unit that may be more effective for a forced induction motor.

[IBCRUSN]

This is a common issue with aircraft. For some reason people spend serious $$ on an aircraft and are annoyed at the oily film/slick covering the belly. Air/oil separators for most aircraft are spendy $300+. However, for experimental aircraft the prices are pretty cheap (a whole other thread for another day). What I'm getting at is there are less expensive options that will do the same job. Here is an option, the mounting is not ideal for a LC but it a small piece of what's available.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ilbreather.php

Installed pic

http://www.flycorvair.com/6522292.jpg

Here's one some guy fabbed up for a Jag. Hell if it works for leaky British car a tight LC should be no problem.

http://bernardembden.com/xjs/pcvfilter/index.htm

[tarbe]

I used a WWII surplus separator (Eclipse) in my TDI. I paid $45 for it in early 2003. I found one on the internet a couple weeks ago after a bit of searching...$200!

Supply and demand....I paid $75 (IIRC) for the Greddy on Ebay.