shakey sideview mirror FIX

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-09-06, 07:58 PM

Title speaks for itself

First, from inside the car use the up button to point the mirror to the sky.
(the first pic show the finished product. I used this pic to illustrate the hanging points)

Take the mirror out of the housing.
Very simple, there's one philips screw on the bottem side of the mirror housing.
With you fingers on the bottom parts of the mirror assembly lightly push up on the mirror and work it out.

Disconnect the three elec. wires.

Next, spearate the two halves of the mirrors by pressing the hold pin out. See pic three.

TiredIronGRB · 03-09-06, 08:09 PM

I put a little dab of clear silicone on either side of mine.

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-09-06, 08:10 PM

Next, use something that will take the dirt and grease away from the mirror. I used Damn and hot water.

Next, git to the auto parts store and buy some JB Weld. Note, if the mirror is not free from dirt and grease you'll end up doing this again.

Mix the JB weld 1:1 ratio.

Next, use something in the house to build a platform to give the broken bracket some form.

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-09-06, 08:22 PM

Next,

Clean off the excess material with a file or dremel tool to form the general outline of the new bracket. I personally took a short cut and used a miter saw, very quick work.

Next line up the best you can and follow the line from the other bracket holder. Use that as a reference point. Then start the first whole with a drill. Try to get the same sharp as the other one. Too much under or over the general line and the mirror will shake again or it'll be too tight and you'll break the new bracket.

Finally, reattach the two halves of the mirror. The best method I found was a knife to elevate the holding arm up. Once you get it up work the pin back in it's home location.

Last pic are all the tools I used.

94landcruiser · 03-09-06, 08:24 PM

Cool writeup. How do I R&R a passenger mirror? I hope to have it on Monday and may not have my manual yet but I'd like to do the swap as soon as I can. Thanks.

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-09-06, 08:31 PM

one more thing.

In the center you'll see the fulcrum of the mirror. On the X and Y axis are two pivot points about 1" from the center.

These pivot points have tiny locators and they only go in one way. They're designed to turn, so adjust the points to the fulcrum prior to reassembly.

Good Luck

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-09-06, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94landcruiser

Cool writeup. How do I R&R a passenger mirror? I hope to have it on Monday and may not have my manual yet but I'd like to do the swap as soon as I can. Thanks.

The mirrors are symmetic in design, so same procedure to remove the mirror as the left.

firetruck41 · 03-09-06, 09:19 PM

MMMMMM... Grovestand, not from concentrate is the best! (Except fresh squeezed, of course).

Hijack over, continue!

dclee · 03-09-06, 10:53 PM

Excellent writeup!

I don't have pics, but I took a slightly different approach. I bent a piece of coat hanger (nice thick wire) into the shape of the hook. Then drilled two holes into the area on the mirror where the hook/ear used to be, one on top, one on the bottom. Dropped some JB Weld in the holes. Then inserted the new coat hanger "hook" into the holes to form a new hook/ear assembly.

Been rock solid after two years. However, now it's my center screw underneath that's the problem, it's split open the hole where it screws in...

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-10-06, 05:32 AM

Fire-
I'm a Florida boy, I know no other outside of fresh squeezed.

dclee
Very cool approach.

I wonder if you could line the screw hole with something to give it some strenght. Then maybe take your coat hanger idea: wrap a coat hanger in a circle, place it around the outside edge and JD weld it.

Dusty · 03-10-06, 09:38 AM

nice write up

Ted44 · 03-10-06, 09:54 AM

The problem with the bottom hole is that it is usually cracked from overtightening. The cheezy little plastic loops break and someone (like me and my trucks PO) tries to stop the vibration by tightening the bottom screw.

Mine was split, so I notched its circumference and squirted some Super Glue in the crack, then used some fine stainless wire and twisted it closed. Then I RTVed the loop mount points, stuck the assembly on there and put the bottom screw back in with care not to overtighten. Doing fine since last August.

Jklubens, your fix for the loops is sweet. When my cobbled fix fails I'll try it.

XXXR · 03-10-06, 10:08 AM

Hilarious! I thought I was the only one with the broken tab... guess its a free OEM from the factory.

I used double sided 3M super molding tape. This procedure looks more permanent, so I'm gonna give it a go. JB Weld... the next best thing to owning a hammer.

THANKS!

tech_dog · 03-10-06, 11:11 AM

I've got the same thing, and drove in this morning annoyed by my shaking mirrors. Your timing is perfect.

If someone was going to use a new part instead of repairing the tabs, how much of a part has to be ordered? I'm guessing it would require replacement of the entire mechanism, probably $150 or so, but it sure would be nice if you could just order a new plastic backing or something.

Can CDan or some other parts guy confirm the minimal parts this would require, along with cost ?

Nice write up. Thanks.

dclee · 03-10-06, 01:41 PM

Anyway to get a small rivnut or wellnut in there? Then at least you relieve some of the pressure of the mounting screw by actually using a bolt to tighten on the nut, rather than the plastic of the housing itself. IOW, the force is now directed downward instead of rotationally side to side on the housing (which causes the split to begin with).

dclee · 03-10-06, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech_dog

If someone was going to use a new part instead of repairing the tabs, how much of a part has to be ordered? I'm guessing it would require replacement of the entire mechanism, probably $150 or so, but it sure would be nice if you could just order a new plastic backing or something.

I checked once and you have to buy to whole mirror assembly. Already painted, I think it was something like the $150 you mentioned.

Ted44 · 03-10-06, 02:47 PM

Jklubens' write up should be part of the FAQ.

Romer · 03-10-06, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ted44

Jklubens' write up should be part of the FAQ.

Done

Cruiser Jimmy · 03-10-06, 04:44 PM

Here's what the other half of the mirror looks like.

The metal shaft coming out of the mirror is attached to a [like] ball joint. Thus the fulcrum for the axis.

Thanks for making an FAQ. I hope this help someone out.

tech_dog · 03-20-06, 05:28 PM

I used a plastic mastic that worked great. It was a couple of bucks at home depot and had the consistency of playdough. I shaped it with my fingers and made the mounting holes with a small straw, and it looks amazingly close to the original shape without any grinding or filing.

Sully · 03-29-06, 09:28 PM

I was lucky enough to find that my bracket, while cracked in 2 places, was still intact. I used a pin vise to drill holes through the cracked parts, inserted guitar wire cut to the proper length for reinforcement, and secured the whole assembly with gorilla glue. I didn't have to dismantle the back from the front of the mirror. So far, it works great.

AZ 80 · 10-06-06, 09:53 PM

I may be late replying to this but I sure have had the problem long before this post, thanks for the great solution post, I'm on it tomorrow.

schum4 · 01-15-07, 06:13 PM

Thanks JKL for the write up and pix.

Tech-dog, is that the same plastic mastic used to seal duct work? Just happen to have some left over.

stayalert · 01-15-07, 06:23 PM

x2 on the thanks for the write up...I just did this on Sat. works like a charm!

tech_dog · 01-15-07, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by schum4

Thanks JKL for the write up and pix.

Tech-dog, is that the same plastic mastic used to seal duct work? Just happen to have some left over.

It was hanging on a peg in the glue section of home depot. They had about 5 types, for metal, plumbing, wood, and plastic. I used the plastic type.

It looked kind of like this, but in different packaging.

http://www.diybathrepair.com/html/kit_mastic.html

JerseyCruiser · 01-27-07, 03:50 PM

Great writeup I'm fixing mine right now just applied the JB Weld and waiting for it to setup. I'm just wondering what makes all of these mirrors break anyway? Is it from the housing getting whacked by something? Mine is broken in the same place and I discovered that the PO tried rigging it with a screw with no luck. The bottom set screw hole was cracked as well. I was lucky to have all of the broken pieces so I super glued them and then put a heavy bead of JB around the outside of the threaded part. I'll let you know how that works out.

G

Perfect fix!!! Like new!!

Loppy · 01-27-07, 04:07 PM

I'm in this club too. Pass side. With no football on, I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Thanks!

TiredIronGRB · 01-27-07, 08:22 PM

That's all cool but I just set mine where I wanted it and ran a bead of clear silicone across the bottom. I did this when I first got it and it's held up great.

rdublin · 03-19-07, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jklubens

Fire-
I wonder if you could line the screw hole with something to give it some strenght. Then maybe take your coat hanger idea: wrap a coat hanger in a circle, place it around the outside edge and JD weld it.

I just did this tonight. The screw hole was split on both sides so first I super glued and clamped it. Then I took at .040" drill bit and put a small hole through the web support on either side of the cylinder and used a bit of .023" solid MIG wire as safety wire. A quick wrap around the screw boss and a few turns with the safety wire pliers and presto - a metal reinforced screw hole. It handled the screw insertion fine and the mirror no longer shakes. We'll see how long it lasts.

Brentbba · 03-20-07, 11:48 AM

Timely - my DS mirror has developed the shakes this past week. Will have to use this info to check it out. Driving me nuts!