Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ

[turbocruiser]

Wow! Awesome Writeup! Wow Again! Thanks fellas for all the efforts!
80's Tech Gots The Best Mods By Far!!!

[Poriomania]

Nice compilation!

I'd also mention the periodic check of torque on the steering arm bolts.

[devo]

Romer,
This write up is a knockout punch!
Thanks.

devo

[topend yobbo]

good write up. Could add on post #20 to use two studs loosely screwed into housing to help line all those bits up. After adding some of the bolts you remove the studs and finish with the rest.Im not trying to be a smart a#* just hope it helps an already mongrel job. CHEERS.

[sleeoffroad]

Great compilation Ken. Takes care of a lot of questions for people. Just one fyi, when installing new drive plates, paint them before installing them. They are not coated when new.

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

You are doing a great job Ken, keep it up! This is a good write up even a mechanic can do this axle rebuild just by reading this thread. You are da man

[photogod]

Step #19 mentions not to get grease on the inner seal. I was under the impression that you should give a thin coat of lube on the seal before closing the assembly, yes? No? Great write up. It sure is nice to see photos of the process. Makes things a lot easier for a wrench like me.

[beno]

Originally Posted by photogod

Step #19 mentions not to get grease on the inner seal. I was under the impression that you should give a thin coat of lube on the seal before closing the assembly, yes? No? Great write up. It sure is nice to see photos of the process. Makes things a lot easier for a wrench like me.

I also recall reading about this and doing this myself on the front axle.

I'll try to find the reference.

[cruiserdan]

The seal lip should get a swipe of grease.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

The seal lip should get a swipe of grease.

Thanks guys, step #19 edited. This is what makes a better FAQ, when everyone gets involved. Keep the comments coming.

[concretejungle]

Originally Posted by Romer

Keep the comments coming.

I didn't notice any pictures of daughterofromer in that writeup. So, even though it was very well done, it's not complete!




CJ, running for cover......................

[1000-oaks]

If new trunion bearings are installed, don't we need to re-center the knuckle on the axle housing? I know there's a special service tool to do this, but I'm not sure how it works.

[loquito]

the 1.5 inch pipe trick to seperate the axel from the birf worked good for me.
Please delete if this does not belong here.

[IdahoDoug]

Ken (and all others who have contributed),

Great job - really well done!

Few comments:

1 - One of the common screwups mechanics fail to do is liberally pack as much grease as possible into the spindle bushing. This is where all the "Grrrrr" sound posts are coming from - dry spindle bushings that just got a wipe of grease. There are criss crossing grease grooves in that bushing to hold grease. Pack this area liberally and thickly and also coat the part of the axle that runs in there. I don't see this specifically mentioned and feel it is worth it. I see you do mention "grease the splines on the drive plate" which is another common error.

2 - I strongly suggest folks use a narrow scraper (screwdriver will do), a stiff bristle brush, and a rag to roughly clean the entire inboard face of the brake dust shield, top of axle housing and entire area around the axle ends. Then soak them with quality foaming engine degreaser for 10 minutes while sitting at the local car wash bay. Blast them clean. Recoat with the degreaser for 10 minutes. Blast them again and drive home to start the work. I suggest this looking at your picture of the ABS sensor coming out and wincing. There is a lot of nasty greasy grit collected in this area and it takes only a half hour to clean both sides down to bare metal by doing this. I only recommend using a pressure washer in this area just prior to teardown due to the potential for jamming water in the seals. But until you have experienced the pleasantry of opening this thing up and seeing only bare metal vs mounds of hardened grit, you can scarcely appreciate it and will over and over again the whole time you're working here. Very little grit and crap fell onto my clean areas and once the project is open it's a losing proposition to initiate a good exterior cleaning. Believe me, you'll be happy you did this.

3 On the above comment on the trunion (knuckle) bearings needing alignment. This knuckle is precision ground to properly seat a set of new bearings and fully seated new races as a matched set. This assumes the original shim is cleaned and reinstalled. All will be well - no opportunity to align these knuckles unlike the 40 knuckles. I'm almost done with an attempt to manually change the alignment of the LF axle in its knuckle and will see when it's time to repack how I did. Another story. So, no need to align anymore, and no tool. And Thousand Oaks, if that avatar is your woman I hope you're hittn' it every waking moment...

3 - go super easy on tighteninig the tiny nuts on the drive plate and cone washers. The torque is in INCH pounds, so easy to break right off.

4 - some substantial metal chips can come off the front diff drainplug - up to the size and shape of a pinkie nail. I showed mine to the LandCruiser Chief of engineering in a baggie and he declared them normal and that's why the huge magnetic plugs. So don't sweat it if you find chips.

DougM

[lcruzrlvr]

I just finished the front end rebuild including tie rod ends. No pictures but here is my addition for the tie rod ends.


TOOLS:
Tie Rod end puller - not a pickle fork (they s**k)
- Part Number: OTC 7315a
(alternatively, you could use Advance Auto / Autozone's Loan a Tool program)
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
1/2" ratchet
14mm box end wrench
Torque Wrench
Plumber's torch
Large crescent wrench or pipe wrench
Bench vise

PARTS:
4 - Toyota Tie Rod ends: call CruiserDan or John Hocker (Sierra Toyota)

OTHER:
Antiseize
Kroil

DISASSEMBLY:
A) Douse tie rod ends liberally in Kroil
B) Remove cotter pin
C) Remove cotter nut
D) Use puller tool to loosen tie rod end
E) Repeat on other side
F) Remove tie rod end - note which end is which

Clamp tie rod in vice, liberally dose clamp in Kroil, unloosen clamp bolt and slide clamp out of the way. Count the number of threads showing on old TRE - write it down. Note orientation of TRE to the slot in the Tie Rod - write it down.

Use pipe wrench to unscrew TRE - one of the TREs is reverse threads. If the TRE doesn't break loose easily, use plumber's torch to heat up the tie rod - steam from boiling Kroil will break rust bond. (fun part). Remove TRE - put it in your spare parts bin if in decent shape.

ASSEMBLY: apply antiseize to the new TRE (the next owner will applaud you). Screw TRE to the same thread count and orientation as old TRE. Repeat on other side. The thread count should set the appropriate toe-in. Install tie rod on steering arms and tighten nuts to 74 lbs. Install cotter pins.


REPEAT: steering rod is the same procedure except you add the removal and installation of steering stabilizer. I found it easier to remove the two bolts holding the stabilizer to the frame then removing the stabilizer on the bench.

ALIGNMENT: I had a professional alignment but you can set your own toe-in and make sure the steering wheel is centered correctly.

HTH.

Troy

[Romer]

Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

If new trunion bearings are installed, don't we need to re-center the knuckle on the axle housing? I know there's a special service tool to do this, but I'm not sure how it works.

I did not do that and have had no problems so far.

Others???


Troy - Thanks for the write-up, I will add it above.

[clownmidget]

Ken - great write up and you are to be commended for your organizational skillz

My only comments would be to have a brass hammer and the set of three brass drifts commonly available from Sears or Napa or most decent hardware/automotive stores, even HarborFreight. Some of the pics show harder metal "tools" being used and IMO not a good idea since the brass stuff is cheap and won't cause damage.

The other addendum I'd add is from Norm's web write up I used many moons ago when that was the only one on the web. It makes doing the rebuild solo much easier and I've used these buggers dozens of time. I don't have a pic but this would be during the rebuild pics in post #19. Place the headless bolts in the knuckle housing at 10 and 2 o'clock and re-assembly is SO much easier. The bottom bolt is threaded into the end of the axle stub to pull it out for the snap ring.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by clownmidget

Ken - great write up and you are to be commended for your organizational skillz

My only comments would be to have a brass hammer and the set of three brass drifts commonly available from Sears or Napa or most decent hardware/automotive stores, even HarborFreight. Some of the pics show harder metal "tools" being used and IMO not a good idea since the brass stuff is cheap and won't cause damage.

The other addendum I'd add is from Norm's web write up I used many moons ago when that was the only one on the web. It makes doing the rebuild solo much easier and I've used these buggers dozens of time. I don't have a pic but this would be during the rebuild pics in post #19. Place the headless bolts in the knuckle housing at 10 and 2 o'clock and re-assembly is SO much easier. The bottom bolt is threaded into the end of the axle stub to pull it out for the snap ring.

Thanks,
The list of tools and the descriptions state use the brass drift. However, I did not have any pics using it. I would be happy to swap pictures if you have one.

Do you have more info on the bolts in the pic. The thread talks about using them for what you say, but sizes and where to buy would be a great add on.

[clownmidget]

Ken, yeah, I figured if I actually took the time and read the entire thread it was all in there. Just like all the photos are somewhere between here and Morgan's or Norm's rebuild links in the Tech section.

This is the shot from Norm's rebuild and I'm fairly certain these are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch but I'll check. I made them using a dremel to cut the heads off and make the screwdrive slot.

edit: checked and they are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch and the length is 40-mm

[Romer]

Originally Posted by clownmidget

Ken, yeah, I figured if I actually took the time and read the entire thread it was all in there. Just like all the photos are somewhere between here and Morgan's or Norm's rebuild links in the Tech section.

This is the shot from Norm's rebuild and I'm fairly certain these are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch but I'll check. I made them using a dremel to cut the heads off and make the screwdrive slot.

edit: checked and they are 10-mm x 1.25 pitch and the length is 40-mm

Thanks Clown,
I forgot about those write-ups. I think I will review those to see if there is something else worthwhile to "Steal" for this thread.

Ken

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

If new trunion bearings are installed, don't we need to re-center the knuckle on the axle housing? I know there's a special service tool to do this, but I'm not sure how it works.

The 80 series knuckle is shimmed only from the top so there is no need, or way to do it for that matter, to "center" the knuckle.

The trunion pre-load is almost always within spec if the original shims are re-used. In fact,I changed an axle housing out and put the knuckles and shims from axle housing "A" on axle housing "B" and the pre-load was dead in the middle.



D-

[Romer]

Great info, just added to step 18

edit: Also took liberties with Norms write-up on Safari. However, to avoid copywrite issues from another site, I put a link and credit at the beginning of each insertion. Great stuuf, thought it should be added.

Anyone have a picture using a scale to test the pre-load?

[topend yobbo]

you blokes obviously dont listen to anyone untill they have over a thousand posts on board.I wrote about the studs 4 posts in and nobody responded.You couldent have missed it.Must be that dont listen to Aussie know how rubbish coming out.A reply when a good idea comes up dosent hurt Romer.

[Romer]

Originally Posted by topend yobbo

you blokes obviously don't listen to anyone until they have over a thousand posts on board.I wrote about the studs 4 posts in and nobody responded.You couldn't have missed it.Must be that don't listen to Aussie know how rubbish coming out.A reply when a good idea comes up dosent hurt Romer.

Topend yobbo - sent you a PM. If you check out post #20, I had inserted your comment as a direct quote from you well before your last comment.

Thought the fact I did that was enough to show you I listened.

However, I want you to know we do appreciate your contribution. I try and wait a few posts before I say thanks, otherwise, it would be every other post. No reason you should feel left out or snubed because your an aussie. Now if you were from Georgia, that would be another matter.

[Beowulf]

Ken,
I believe the torque spec in your post #25 should be inch/lbs.

Add alloy & steel wheel torque specs and any others that are missing. I will agree with the others that we should try to get pics showing the common DIY tools like the brass drifts.

Nice job!

-B-

[Romer]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Ken,
I believe the torque spec in your post #25 should be inch/lbs.

Add alloy & steel wheel torque specs and any others that are missing. I will agree with the others that we should try to get pics showing the common DIY tools like the brass drifts.

Nice job!

-B-

I'll check #25. If someone wants to get me all the torque specs and let me know were they go, that would be great.

[cruiserdan]

In no particular order:

Caliper bolts, 90 lb-ft
Drive flange nuts, 26 lb-ft
Wheel bearing preload, 43 lb-ft, twist hub, 43 lb-ft, back off.
Rotational pre-load, 2.9-5.7 kg.
Wheel brg LOCK NUT, 47 lb-ft.
Trunion bearing caps, 71 lb-ft.
Steering arms, 71 lb-ft.
Steering knuckle preload, 2.5-4.5 kg.
Tie rod end nuts, 67 lb-ft.
Spindle bolts, 34 lb-ft.
ABS sensor bolt, 13 lb-ft.
Steel wheel and alloy wheel with conical seat lug nuts, 109 lb-ft.
Late alloy wheel with shank nuts, 76 lb-ft.


D-