[Zane]

I recently noticed that I had an oil leak coming from the front of my motor. After cleaning up the front of the motor to determine where the leak was coming from it was easy to see that it was coming from where the oil pump cover mated to the timing chain cover. I crawled under the truck once running and oil was coming out in a slow but steady stream from the area shown in the attached picture below.


After reading several posts on what others have done when they have had a bad oil pump seal I was concerned that I would end up having to pull the timing chain cover to get the philips head bolts off that hold the oil pump cover on. I went ahead and took a gamble and decided I would try and pull the oil pump cover off without removing the timing chain cover as well as the Radiator. I spent quite a bit of time thinking about how I would do this to keep from stripping out the heads as they are very soft and tend to strip out easily as others have said. For those of you that need to replace or may someday need to replace this seal I have documented a successful method of removing the oil pump cover in place, on the motor, that I have found made this a very easy task.

There is no way you can do this with a standard screwdriver as there is not enough room with the radiator in place, as well as you can not get enough leverage to turn the bolts. What you will need to purchase is a short #3 philips head bit that will fit on a 1/4 inch socket. This will allow you to get the leverage you need using a ratchet. I purchased several different short #3 philips head bits from different stores to find the one that had the tightest fit. The one that had the best fit was from Harbor Freight. See attached picture of needed philips head. I purchased two just in case.


These are the steps I took to complete this job:

Step One: Remove all belts as well as the fan clutch. To remove fan and clutch take top two bolts off of fan shroud that attach it to the top of the radiator. Once you have all four bolts pulled that hold the fan clutch on, pull the fan and clutch out between the shroud and radiator being careful not damage your radiator.
Step Two: Remove steering stabilizer and small front splash shield.
Step Three: I drained motor oil as I replaced the front crank shaft seal. (don’t know if I needed to do this, but I didnt want any surprises while doing the job)
Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.
Step Five: Remove Idler puller (I replaced new from Toyota)
Step Six: Take your short #3 philips head bit and place it in one of the screws holding the oil pump cover in place. Tap it with a small hammer for about 30 seconds. Be careful not to accidentally hit your radiator. I found that this does two things. It seats the philips bit into the head and shocks the bolt helping loosen things up.


continued on next post...

[Zane]

Step Seven: Attached your driver to the philips bit after tapping on it and place your right hand flat against the end of the ratchet keeping pressure on the bit to the bolt. Use your left hand to loosen the bolt. Take your time and apply pressure slowly. Not a single philips head stripped out on me and came out. I ended up having to apply quite a bit of foot pounds to loosen each one, but remember to do is slowly. Do this to all phillips head bolts holding the oil pump cover in place. The key to this is a bit that fits perfectly!


Step Eight: Place something directly under the oil pump to catch the small amount of oil that will come out when you pull the cover off.
Step Nine: Use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the cover off.


Step Ten: Remove old seal using the same flathead screwdriver. Clean up old oil off cover and surrounding area. Make sure not to get dirt in the pump area.

[Zane]

Step Eleven: Replace seal with new one. Place new rubber seal in grove using some engine oil to hold the seal in place.
Step Twelve: Place oil pump cover back in place without moving seal out of its grove. Use new Philips bolts from Toyota to replace the old ones.
Step Thirteen: Tighten philips bolts in chris cross pattern using short philips bit and ratchet. There is no ft/lbs spec in the FSM for these Philips bolts so I made them fairly tight making sure not to strip out the heads.
Step Fourteen: Replace front crank shaft seal (just because you are in there). Pull old seal out with seal puller or screwdriver. Put new seal in, by placing some motor oil around seal for easy placement. Make sure it is seated well.


Step Fifteen through Seventeen I will be doing tomorow
Step Fifteen: Put Crank shaft pulley back in place. Thread nut back in place by hand. Use good chain pliers to wrap around the pulley to keep motor from turning when lighting bolt. Place a rubber hose around chain to keep from damaging pulley. Use Torque wrench that will go up to 310 ft/lbs. Place bar in place to keep chain pliers from spinning and tighten using torque wrench. Or have some one attempt to hold it??? I am able to rent this torque wrench from a local rental store in town for a small fee.
Step Sixteen: Replace Idler pulley (new from Toyota), put fan and clutch back in place, replace two bolts holding top of shroud, Put belts back in (replace with OEM if yours are old), fill engine back up with oil.
Step Seventeen: Have a cold beer and smile at all the money and time you just saved yourself!

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

A very nice and detailed removal and installation. Great job. I will keep and save those pictures for future use.

Thanks for your time detailing the process.

[firetruck41]

Great write up and pics!
If I was doing this job, I might consider replacing the phillips head with some allen head bolts, seems it would make it easier if there is a next time.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by firetruck41

Great write up and pics!
If I was doing this job, I might consider replacing the phillips head with some allen head bolts, seems it would make it easier if there is a next time.

Yes you could and a good idea. I didnt want to monkey around trying to find the right size so I just ordered new OEM bolts prior to starting the job.

[MikeB]

Great job Zane.

Could you measure the thread size and length of the "bolts", and post a pic of one, so that we can look for alternatives? I assume that they are standard flat head machine screws.

Mike

[Elijah]

Nice post Zane!! Sounds like this could possibly go in the FAQ. Thanks for the detailed write up!!

[LX_TREME]

Originally Posted by zjz4476

Step Sixteen: Replace Idler pulley (new from Toyota)

What a coincidence, I'm about to do samething after new year except i'm going to replace with new radiator, also got all the parts here just waiting for moment and the right time.By any chance do you remember the Idler pulley part #?

Thank you

[IdahoDoug]

Very nice. This should go in the FAQ and looks to be an excellent time saver.

DougM

[RavenTai]

This seal is seeping on my 80, no where near a stream yet just a grimy stain, thanks for the write up,

Another tip on Philips screws is to use valve lapping compound on the tip, gives more grip.

If you run into trouble can the rad be removed and get a manual impact in there? Need about 8" plus room to swing a hammer

[scottm]

Hmm, maybe that's what's leaking on mine. I thought it was the front crank seal, but I don't see any slinging like my other 80 did. Nice writeup, thanks!

[cruiserdan]

Be sure to get the crank pulley bolt nice and tight when you go back togther...

Good job!.


D-

[cruiserman]

He is holding the hammer sideways so to speak, so that the side of the hammer is striking the bolts. I'll probably be doing this repair to mine, but I think it was a poor RTV job by the user.

[Zane]

OK, I completed steps 15 thru 17 with no needed updates to the step by step comments provided. I used a 600 ft/lb torque wrinch to tighten the crank bolt to 305 ft/lbs. I made it 310 for good messure just in case the calibration was off on it due to it being a rental tool.

[Zane]

Originally Posted by IdahoDoug

Very nice. This should go in the FAQ and looks to be an excellent time saver.

DougM

If you guys think this should be in the FAQ section that would be great. How can we git this done? My only concern is that even though I have compressed my pictures as much as possible I'm running out of space for future posts. When put in the FAQ section will this free up my allowed picture space? I sure would hate to pull some of these pictures out of my uploads to post something new and loose the value of them in the original post.

[Dusty]

nice write up-way usefull

[Zane]

Originally Posted by LX_TREME

What a coincidence, I'm about to do samething after new year except i'm going to replace with new radiator, also got all the parts here just waiting for moment and the right time.By any chance do you remember the Idler pulley part #?

Thank you

Attached you will find all the Toyota part numbers needed for this job.

Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7

Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022

[Zane]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

This seal is seeping on my 80, no where near a stream yet just a grimy stain, thanks for the write up,

Another tip on Philips screws is to use valve lapping compound on the tip, gives more grip.

If you run into trouble can the rad be removed and get a manual impact in there? Need about 8" plus room to swing a hammer

You could remove the radiator and gain some room, but I only needed to Tap (as hard as I could while still in control of the hammer) the philips driver with the side of the hammer (as Cruiserman stated) to do the job.

[LX_TREME]

Originally Posted by zjz4476

Attached you will find all the Toyota part numbers needed for this job.

Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7

Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022

I bought all the parts already except the Idler Pulley Part# also have question here, do i really need to replace all the 7pcs of philip head bolts?

[Zane]

Originally Posted by LX_TREME

I bought all the parts already except the Idler Pulley Part# also have question here, do i really need to replace all the 7pcs of philip head bolts?

I would, they are CHEAP and good insurance just in case you mess up the heads when pulling them out.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by zjz4476

If you guys think this should be in the FAQ section that would be great. How can we git this done? My only concern is that even though I have compressed my pictures as much as possible I'm running out of space for future posts. When put in the FAQ section will this free up my allowed picture space? I sure would hate to pull some of these pictures out of my uploads to post something new and loose the value of them in the original post.

Buy a star and you can post pics to your heart's delight.....

[spartan]

An add to this - lap ( sand your cover before reinstalling ) with wet /dry sandpaper on flat surface as robbie mentions in his replacement procedure post.

I replaced my seal to repair a pretty substantial leak, did NOT sand it flat and still have a slight weep of oil.

[spartan]

Update - seems the o ring does swell. My leak is gone!!!!!!! Yippeee....

[LX_TREME]

Originally Posted by spartan

Update - seems the o ring does swell. My leak is gone!!!!!!! Yippeee....

Spartan, When you mentioned the O ring you mean 2 of them behind the Oil Pump Cover? Same as the one on the pic with the red arrows? or something different? Part # maybe?

[powderpig]

No LX I beleive he is talking about the o-pump cover's 0-ring style seal. It is more the shape of the cover but round in nature. see step ten and the picture. You will see a thin black o-ring in the timing cover behind the plate. later robbie

[Rookie2]

Originally Posted by spartan

An add to this - lap ( sand your cover before reinstalling ) with wet /dry sandpaper on flat surface as robbie mentions in his replacement procedure post.

Just the cover surface or both the cover and oil pump surface? Is there a particular grit of sand paper to use, or does wet/dry just come in one grit?

I noticed last night I've got a small leak in this area too. Haven't pulled the engine guard yet to see if I can tell exactly where it's coming from. I suspect for a leak in this arear, it would come down to crank seal, oil pump seal, or front oil pan arch?

Spartan: Thanks for the write-up..., couple of questions:

Does the crank shaft pulley nut go on righty tighty, lefty loosie? How did you keep the breaker bar and socket in place while bumping the engine? And when you say to disconnect the distributor lead to bump the motor, is that the high-tension cord in the middle of the distributor cap?

Thanks in advance.

Rookie2

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Rookie2

Does the crank shaft pulley nut go on righty tighty, lefty loosie? How did you keep the breaker bar and socket in place while bumping the engine? And when you say to disconnect the distributor lead to bump the motor, is that the high-tension cord in the middle of the distributor cap?

Thanks in advance.

Rookie2

Step Four: Remove crank shaft pulley. Use ¾ inch 30mm socket w/ breaker bar placed under passenger side of frame. I used rock climbing webbing to hold the breaker bar under the passenger side of frame. You could use just about anything. Duck Tape, Rope, bungy, etc... Disconnect distributor lead. Then bump the starter and the bolt will break loose.

[Rookie2]

Originally Posted by zjz4476

Disconnect distributor lead.

Sorry... still trying to get some of the lingo down and I want to make sure I understand correctly... "distributor lead" is the ignition cable connecting into the center of the distributor cap, right?

[Zane]

Originally Posted by Rookie2

Sorry... still trying to get some of the lingo down and I want to make sure I understand correctly... "distributor lead" is the ignition cable connecting into the center of the distributor cap, right?

That is correct!