PHH

[Riley]

>> we're all just a bunch of paranoyed overprepared fools carrying around more odd spare parts than my local dealer <<

You got that right considering the research and effort spent on exactly the right hose and clamps. It's total and complete refinement pushed to the limits.

[Rich]

Originally Posted by Chris_Geiger

...
Exactly what tool did Toyota have in mind to remove the bolt on the back of the motor?
...

I don't know what Toyota had in mind, but I removed the lower bolt by using a 1/4 drive socket wrench.

[MrZumma]

Sheesh folks... Chris offered up a viable solution to a difficult problem and he gets crapped on for it...

Mine started leaking the other night , so I'll be doing mine this evening while thinking about our Floridian IH8MUD friends who are receiving a severe pounding tonight...

[otis22]

Replaced my PHH yesterday and all the advice on the FAQ was used and invaluable in getting the PITA servicing done. As a novice I wanted to submit my two cents on the job. Taking the top bolt off of the tube going into the block was critical, its near the rear of the block and accessable from the top of the engine compartment. I used silcone tubing that I could only find from a Peterbilt parts distributors, but most big rig truck dealers appear to carry silicone. Pliers or vise grips to rip out the cotter pin clamp coming from the metal tube appear to be the only way for me to get that clamp off, also using a sharp box cutter to remove the rubber hose is a good recommendation. Once the old stuff was out my main difficultly was aligning the metal tube up with the engine block orifice to push the silicone tubing on. Putting the silicone tubing in boiling water and KY jelly makes it more manageble. The main tool that I found that worked best for this step was a long piece of PVC pipe cut to lenght and padded a little on the front with tape to use leverage and properly align the metal downtube and more importantly get enough leverage to push the silicone tubing from the metal downtube onto the engine block tube. The PVC pipe made this jobe a hell of a lot easier and I recommend it if you find that you are too big or too tired to get enough leverage to align and push the tubing on to the engine block orifice. I want to thank everyone for their advice, I would have never had the confidence with out their writeups to do this on my own.

[IdahoDoug]

Thanks for adding the information to your post on the year....

DougM

[IdahoDoug]

lkj;lkj

[Eduardo96FZJ80]

Originally Posted by otis22

Replaced my PHH yesterday and all the advice on the FAQ was used and invaluable in getting the PITA servicing done. As a novice I wanted to submit my two cents on the job. Taking the top bolt off of the tube going into the block was critical, its near the rear of the block and accessable from the top of the engine compartment. I used silcone tubing that I could only find from a Peterbilt parts distributors, but most big rig truck dealers appear to carry silicone. Pliers or vise grips to rip out the cotter pin clamp coming from the metal tube appear to be the only way for me to get that clamp off, also using a sharp box cutter to remove the rubber hose is a good recommendation. Once the old stuff was out my main difficultly was aligning the metal tube up with the engine block orifice to push the silicone tubing on. Putting the silicone tubing in boiling water and KY jelly makes it more manageble. The main tool that I found that worked best for this step was a long piece of PVC pipe cut to lenght and padded a little on the front with tape to use leverage and properly align the metal downtube and more importantly get enough leverage to push the silicone tubing from the metal downtube onto the engine block tube. The PVC pipe made this jobe a hell of a lot easier and I recommend it if you find that you are too big or too tired to get enough leverage to align and push the tubing on to the engine block orifice. I want to thank everyone for their advice, I would have never had the confidence with out their writeups to do this on my own.

Ingenious use of KY

[whodat]

Otis, how did you use the pvc to get the hose on?

[Chris_Geiger]

I shoud have waited a few weeks. My head gasket failed and blew out at the rear water jacket on cyl #6. Now that the head is off it's very easy to get to the PHH!

[landtank]

Looks like the typical deformity of the #6 sealing ring that I and others have seen. I have seen a marked improovement in how my engine runs since the gasket. Let us know how thing s work out.

Luckily I got to my gasket just as the ring was starting to seperate from the gasket, got to it just in time.

[whodat]

chris, how many miles are on your 80? what were the symptoms of failed hg?

whodat

[landtank]

Whodat, Jacksonville FL, have you ever eaten over at the PIG restaurant. Best damn ribs I've had.

[whodat]

Ha! The one along i-95? Yes, the other benefit of that stop is the cheap gas. Whodat

[landtank]

Just north of Jacksonville kind of behind the airport on Lem Turner Rd I think

[otis24]

whodat - i used a long piece of PVC and wrapped the end with tape. I had the silicone tubing on the already pushed onto the tube end not attached to the block. I could only get the lubricated tube partially lined up to the tube coming off of the block. I then used the length of PVC to push gentlyon the back lip of the tube which added enough leverage to easily push the Silcone tube snug against the block. I also already had the hose clamps loosely on the tubing. It worked for me hopefully it will work for you.

[MoJ]

Questions as I'm getting ready to swap this guy out.

1. I'm planning on using standard heater hose for the replacement instead of the fancy stuff. Do I still need to use the fancy clamps or will any standard hose clamp work?

2. There are 2 different style clamps on there from the factory. The one with the pin looks like it will have to be cut or does the pin slide out? The other wider clamp on the block side looks like it pinches together to release?

3. The band is wider on the inner clamp, do I need to follow suit and use 2 different width clamps?

4. When I remove the old hose, how much coolant should I expect to have come pouring out? Gushing out? A trickle?

Gracias!

[tucker74]

Moj - If you're planning on using regular hose then standard clamps will be fine, and you only need the one size (ie - same width). To remove the factory hose you have to pull the cotter pin in the outer clamp (it will fall apart) and squeeze the inner clamp together and slide it (90 deg. needle-nose easiest) off the hose onto the pipe. Then you can simply cut the old hose w/ a utility knife - not much coolant will come out if you've already drained the block. You must do this first - otherwise you'll have about a half gallon of coolant to contend with! I just removed the upper bolt from the pipe and turned it at the block - lube the hose w/ dish soap and slide it all the way flush with the end, turn the pipe back, slide the hose over the nipple, slide the clamps down and tighten (put clamps on hard pipe before hose!). Easy breezy -

Tucker

[loquito]

Originally Posted by Junk

for clamp debate, see -> http://forum.ih8mud.com/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=14250

Hey Junk

In this post #42 as well as post #41 you provided links to research more. Neither of the links work any more.

Is there any way I could get you to put updated links to the info you were directing us to?

If you have the time that would be great.

Have a good Christmass

Steven

[Riley]

Try the following:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/21312-phh-block-heater-sucess.html

OR

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/10400-phh-material.html

But you know the above 3 page tread, beats the topic to clamps to death. I'm not sure there is much more info around. Buy them from Mcmaster and get smallest size they have.

I recall the first thread that brought them up was C-Dan mentioning silicon hose being used in cap cars but that didn't search too well.

[MoJ]

I ended up going with regular old heater hose and regular old clamps. At 110k the original PHH showed only very slight signs of deteoration. Figure I won't have to worry with if for another 100k miles or 7 years!

[Riley]

Agreed, it's more important to change it then to not change it while your obsessing over which clamps and hose to use. Get it replaced in the driveway not the ditch.

[John E Davies]

Just to add to the confusion here.... when I did my PHH last year I used 5/8 marine fuel hose. Bloody expensive, but I found a 10 inch scrap at my local marine supply. It's hard to get over the nipples but is really durable, reinforced, thick walled hose.

John

[loquito]

Thanks Riley
I ordered the McMasters set of clamps per a previous post in this thread, I also have a peice of hose coming so I think I am ready to go, I figured with Junk posting links on page two it had to be relavent.
Steven

Hey Riley I had read both of those, Thanks.

Originally Posted by Riley

Try the following:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=21312

OR

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=10400

But you know the above 3 page tread, beats the topic to clamps to death. I'm not sure there is much more info around. Buy them from Mcmaster and get smallest size they have.

I recall the first thread that brought them up was C-Dan mentioning silicon hose being used in cap cars but that didn't search too well.

[loquito]

Well thanks to everyone here.
All the posts and links really helped alot, I bet most casual owners would never think to look for a hose there, even if they were the check the belts and hose's type owner.
A pretty okay job, I worried more about it being harder than it actualy was.

The only tip I could add that I haven't read yet is:
For the cottor pin clamp, I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips. Clamped on the cottor pin through the hole and started twisting the vise grips, just like you do with the keys that used to come on the bottom of sardine cans. It came right off.

The other clamp was the spring steel clamp kind, on my truck the wider side was twards the firewall up high. I could only see the skinny side and no pliers I had could get on the clamp. I even tried griping the hose to turn it, no clearance.
I ended up grabbing a stubby screwdriver, putting it through the empty spot on the wide side and twisted the hose and clamp all at once. With the clamp facing down any pair of pliers I have would have worked. and it broke the stickyness between the hose and nipple.

Thanks again, now I should be okay for another 100k.
Steven

[turbocruiser]

Originally Posted by loquito

The other clamp was the spring steel clamp kind, on my truck the wider side was twards the firewall up high. I could only see the skinny side and no pliers I had could get on the clamp. I even tried griping the hose to turn it, no clearance.

Steven

I've always wonder why Mr. T used two different types of clamps on so many of the heater hoses? Anyone have any ideas based on either production line efficiency or long term reliability or something else to explain this?

For me, with any of those sardine things that I have enough access to, I just cut into the band with snips to snap it loose. Of course the hose is getting replaced so a small nick on the hose wont hurt. I tried to pull the pin on several but even after grabbing and gripping the flared end tight, I felt it took too much force to pull the pin so I just went to the cut and remove method. In other words, I was more worried about damaging what the hoses connected to, then the hose or the hose clamps themselves. HTH.

[landtank]

Originally Posted by turbocruiser

I've always wonder why Mr. T used two different types of clamps on so many of the heater hoses? Anyone have any ideas based on either production line efficiency or long term reliability or something else to explain this?
.

I've always thought that it was a preassembled part from the original source to help cut down the loose parts and assembly time at the line. So the pipe came with the hose on it. No real evidence or knowledge of thet just my thougts.

[perk]

Can someone confirm that the bolts used on the PHH are 12 mm? If so, I am in luck, as I had a shop do some of the baselining work when I first purchased, and the unfocused lad who worked on it happened to leave a 12mm ratcheting box wrench sitting on the battery, as well as the idler pulley he replaced. It sounds like this is a handy tool when performing PHH replacement.
I figure the wrench was compensation for the worry I was left with after finding these symbols of absentmindedness by those I entrusted my new member of the family to.

[perk]

Speaking of absentmindedness.....I put this reply on the wrong thread, I meant it to go on the one I generated yesterday Oh well, this probably is useful on this thread as well, assuming it hasn't already been answered here and I missed it

[Nomis]

Data Point: Upon visual external inspection the hose had no signs of leakage. But seeing as how I'm going on a 16 hour trip in the next couple of days I began to get that "nagging" feeling that I'd better change it now in the relative comfort of my garage. After all, why risk it? Reading posts on this forum that included horrid descriptions such as, "Bursting" and "Exploding" PHH's, certainly had an impact on my decision. The entire process took me about 4 hours from start to finish. This includes draining the rad, block, jacking up the vehicle, removeing the wheel, etc. I'm 5'9" and my forearms are average sized I guess, smaller and longer forearms would certainly be a plus for this task.

One more thing, I WAS in fact able to get a Dremel pencil extension in there with a cutoff wheel and cut through the first and part of the second clamps. This cut down on a lot of aggravation. One issue is that the wheels themselves are seemingly delicate and I broke more than a few just trying to get it into position.

I used standard Heavy Duty heater hose and used standard stainless steel hose clamps. I have no doubt that this will hold up for another 8 years without issue. No need for all that fancy smancy aero-space gear. In the event I have to replace it again - the worm gear hose clamps will be relatively easy to remove.

Bottom line - take your time and, you can do it. This IS NOT a hard task - just very Time Consuming. Whoever is reading this and thinking about undertaking this repair, just give yourself enough time and you'll be fine. Good Luck.

[Gumby]

Did yours need replacing?