Real Time Belt Swap help

stevezero · 11-20-05, 08:48 AM

Since the search button is currently MIA, I'm looking for some tips on swapping the drive belts in my 80. Any shortcuts would be great, and how to deal with the belt tensioners.

Thanks,
Steve

tucker74 · 11-20-05, 09:59 AM

Two belt tensioners and the pivot bolt on the alt, the latter becomes easier with an extension after you loosen the bottom tensioner. Those double belts are a tight fit, but they'll go on

Tucker

sea2skydad · 11-20-05, 10:10 AM

Steve,

It's been a while since I did mine, but I recall that the 12 mm stubby ratcheting wrench paid for itself for taking off the alternator belts. I didn't remove anything else, such as the battery box or go through the apron in the wheel well like others have stated here. The tensioner for the alternator is at the front of the slide, parallel with the grill. The belts then slip over the fan one blade at a time. Pretty apparent once you get in there.
For the ac belt, I removed the splash pan under the rad first. The tensioner is in the middle of the pulley itself. For me, this was not immediately obvious, and cost me some WTF time. This bolt was frozen, I used some Never-seez on re-assembly. Took me about 45 minutes, IIRC. HTH, Greg.

Boston Mangler · 11-20-05, 10:10 AM

I got big fat hands and i am fairly lazy.

I removed the battery and the tray and it made life much easier for me!

Much easier to get wrenches and sockets in there!

clarkrw3 · 11-20-05, 10:17 AM

good time to replace the viscous coupler on the fan...with that off it makes everything very easy, and it's good PM

stevezero · 11-20-05, 12:56 PM

Thanks guys, I got mine done in about 90 mins. I really took my time, not wanting to break any bolts/nutserts (stealership is closed today)I remembered the comment about removing the batt tray. I just started removing what looked logical (batt tray, splash guard pan underneath, and the steering stablizer bracket to drop the SS down on that side.. I didnt have the VC, or I would have done that too. The belts were looking really scruffy. I gave both tensioners a good shot of PB Blaster to loosen them up, and loosened the pulley bolt on the AC tensioner to allow it to move. I didnt have the 12mm ratchet wrench, but was able to use a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket combo. Air tools really make buttoning up go quickly (didnt really use them taking everything off to minimize breakage). Definately much better than doing them on the side of the road. The AC belt looks like it had been replaced once before(so I'll keep that one as a spare), but the two alternator belts were scary looking.

Next baselining/PM steps: PHH/ top/bottom rad hoses, and coolant flush, and fuel filter. I've already done the starter contacts, but I'll still drop the starter for easier access.

11-20-05, 08:48 AM	#1
stevezero IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 355	Real Time Belt Swap help Since the search button is currently MIA, I'm looking for some tips on swapping the drive belts in my 80. Any shortcuts would be great, and how to deal with the belt tensioners. Thanks, Steve

11-20-05, 09:59 AM	#2
tucker74 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2003 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,931	Two belt tensioners and the pivot bolt on the alt, the latter becomes easier with an extension after you loosen the bottom tensioner. Those double belts are a tight fit, but they'll go on Tucker __________________ '94 FZJ80 '76 FJ40 www.walcs.com

11-20-05, 10:10 AM	#4
Boston Mangler IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2004 Location: San Diego TLCA# 9060 Posts: 3,582	I got big fat hands and i am fairly lazy. I removed the battery and the tray and it made life much easier for me! Much easier to get wrenches and sockets in there! __________________ Baja Overland www.bajaoverland.com 2006 XR650L TLCA #9060 Own a Land Cruiser? Join TLCA Today @ www.tlca.org

11-20-05, 10:17 AM	#5
clarkrw3 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Goodyear, AZ TLCA# 15560 Posts: 1,136	good time to replace the viscous coupler on the fan...with that off it makes everything very easy, and it's good PM __________________ '96 LX 450 67K locked, ARB Bull Bar, Slee 6", Slee step sliders, Slee rear tire carrier, slee skid, CDL, 315/75-16 MTR's, etc. ROTW '07 FJ Cruiser locked, 285/70-17 MTR's Copper State Cruisers #38 TLCA #15560 Rob Clark

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11-20-05, 10:10 AM	#3
sea2skydad IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 180	Steve, It's been a while since I did mine, but I recall that the 12 mm stubby ratcheting wrench paid for itself for taking off the alternator belts. I didn't remove anything else, such as the battery box or go through the apron in the wheel well like others have stated here. The tensioner for the alternator is at the front of the slide, parallel with the grill. The belts then slip over the fan one blade at a time. Pretty apparent once you get in there. For the ac belt, I removed the splash pan under the rad first. The tensioner is in the middle of the pulley itself. For me, this was not immediately obvious, and cost me some WTF time. This bolt was frozen, I used some Never-seez on re-assembly. Took me about 45 minutes, IIRC. HTH, Greg.

11-20-05, 12:56 PM	#6
stevezero IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 355	Thanks guys, I got mine done in about 90 mins. I really took my time, not wanting to break any bolts/nutserts (stealership is closed today)I remembered the comment about removing the batt tray. I just started removing what looked logical (batt tray, splash guard pan underneath, and the steering stablizer bracket to drop the SS down on that side.. I didnt have the VC, or I would have done that too. The belts were looking really scruffy. I gave both tensioners a good shot of PB Blaster to loosen them up, and loosened the pulley bolt on the AC tensioner to allow it to move. I didnt have the 12mm ratchet wrench, but was able to use a 1/4 inch ratchet/socket combo. Air tools really make buttoning up go quickly (didnt really use them taking everything off to minimize breakage). Definately much better than doing them on the side of the road. The AC belt looks like it had been replaced once before(so I'll keep that one as a spare), but the two alternator belts were scary looking. Next baselining/PM steps: PHH/ top/bottom rad hoses, and coolant flush, and fuel filter. I've already done the starter contacts, but I'll still drop the starter for easier access.