NLXTACY
Wits' End
Well I've been talking for a long time about NOT doing a lift. I've never "really" needed it with the type of wheeling/camping I do. But there has been instances that have been frustrating yet not impossible to overcome. Well now that the truck has 300k miles on the clock, the suspension is really starting to show it's age.
At about 60k it started to develop the "cruiser lean". At that point it also needed new shocks. So I replaced the shocks with LandCrusier shocks in stead of the Lexus shocks that it came with. My wife hated the feel ever since. At around 200k we started feeling the rocking boat effect. But I was being stubborn about spending the time and money on getting a lift. Thanks to RETROFIVE I got his fairly low mileage stock springs. That helped. But now, at 300k, the springs are shot. The shocks aren't doing their job and I just feel that things are dangerous now because the truck is now bouncing all over the place. Every part of the suspension feels old. I haven't checked yet but I don't have much hope for the bushings.
When I started thinking about the lift I had to first decide why I wanted a lift and what height I was looking for. I have an IPOR dual swing rear bumper. I have tons of tools and spares and emergency crap in the back. I am currently running 33" tires but am willing to go taller. I have dual batteries but a stock front bumper and no winch. Eventually I will but not yet. So there is a lot of weight to consider.
I do a lot of miles because we drive all over the place, regardless of the price of gas . We also do semi regular trips up North, usually to Yellowstone. Mammoth and Death Valley are semi common trips. If its wild boulder hopping where you will spend 6 hours traveling 500 yards, I'm not interested. That's nowhere near my kind of fun.
So why lift? Why not stay stock? Simple, my wife covets the 80s in the area that are lifted. Now that we have to spend a bunch of money just to get everything back to stock but new, might as well spend a few more bucks and do the lift. So if she's given the green light then I might as well go for it. I still have the S/C to finish but there just isn't time.
So how much Lift? I've decided on 4". The Slee 6" looks cool but it just not practical for a truck that sees 95% hwy driving plus all the issues that need to be taken care of by going that high. I thought about 2.5" but the trucks that have the OME 2.5" don't really look all that lifted. So I settled on 4" but one of the first things I noticed when doing a search and checking the FAQs was that there were hardly any threads on specifically the 4" lift. So I figured I would detail what I am doing.
Now I am only starting this whole process. I've done nothing but send a few PMs and read a few threads. Much like my engine rebuild thread, I will detail my thought process here, get everyone's feedback and then detail my build. It will be slow and methodical. I won't buy anything until its been well thought through and others have vetted it. So I will be definitely looking for assistance in selecting and building up the kit. Unfortunately for me, suspension is my knowledge week point on this or any vehicle for that matter.
So here is what I know that I will need and my thoughts:
• Front and rear springs- I think this is going to be the toughest decision. I want to make sure that I still get the well rounded road manners the LX had on day one of buying it, but still have the off road manners with all the laden weight that is needed. I also need to throw out there that I would really just prefer black springs. I really don't want colored springs. It just bugs me but I won't let it be a deal killer. I can paint them one I figure out the correct paint for them that is good and flexible.
Slee's 4" springs- $240/pair front or rear- after a conversation with Christo (and driving a few trucks) I decided on Slee's medium front and medium rears.
OME $169/pair front or rear
Ironman 4" springs- $165/pair fronts
Ironman 4" springs- $165/pair rear
TJM 3.5" HD springs set- $400/set
• Front and rear shocks- this is where I am really looking to upgrade. I'm just tired of the stock shocks I've been running and I just wants something that will handle everything that we throw at it. I have to say that I am leaning towards the reservoir shocks from Radflo, Slee or Fox. I really want the best I can get instead of regretting the money I spent. I do not know the correct answers and will instead use suggestions. Slee lists only 2.5" but says longer are available.
Slee reservoir shocks- $445 front/$400 rear (*note, these are for 2.5")
RadFlo 4" shocks from MetalTech- $375/ea. for the fronts (extrapolating from the 2.5" price)
RadFlo 4" shocks from MetalTech- $375/ea. for the rears (extrapolating from the 2.5" price)
Ironman Foam Cell fronts- $122/ea.
Ironman Foam Cell rears- $122/ea.
Bilstein 7100 shocks over at Marlins- $193/ea.
FOX 2.0 Shocks- $227.00 ea. fronts/$187.00 ea. rears
Actually wound up getting OME Nitro shocks for the time being. Purchased from Slee. I'm going to give these a fair shake before deciding on an upgrade.
• Front spring spacers- Its my understanding that these are needed for either curing the problem of the cruiser lean or for stink big. If there is another use, it elude me. IF needed, is it better to go with the polyurethane space or metal spacers like MetalTech makes? Poly bushings tend to split. MetalTech metal spacers only come in 1.5" and 2". I had a fellow mudder donate a set of 2" metal spacers. Damn cool of him
Slee's poly bushings- $45/pair
MetalTech's 1.5" spring spacers- $144.95/pair
MetalTech's 2" spring spacers- $144.95/pair
Ironman poly trim packers- $24.00
• Bump Stops- This is a discussion that has come up lately in the thread. The bumpstops could be dropped with a spacer to get the right height but now I'm looking for other options.
Timbren Bump Stop from Just Differentials- $215/pair
Radflo hydraulic bump stop- $170/ea. Tons of fabrication needed in order to install these on the truck.
Jounce's Air Bump Stops- $280/ea. Super spending but DELANCY seems to like them
• Longer brake lines- These were installed the last time I did all of my brakes over a year ago. Got these from Slee and they have been fine so far. Pretty much Slee is the only game in town for this: Slee's extended brake lines- $99 (93-97)
• Front and rear Panhard (lateral support) Bars- It seems from what I have been reading that its best to go with adjustable because every truck seems to need different levels of adjustment. I've only seen options from TJM and Slee. Any others that should be considered?
Slees' front and rear adjustable panhard bars- $250/ea.
Ironman adjustable panhard bars- $157/ea.
TJM adjustable panhard bar kit- $350
OME Front Panhard Rod $297.99 (#PAN3050)
OME Rear Panhard Rod $264.88 (#PANR008)
Landtanks DIY joint kit- ordered up a set of these for $215
• Rear lower control arms- This is one of those items that I've already decided on and I am going to go with Landtank's LCAs with the OEM bushings already pressed in. Ordered just now from AJIK Overland:
LANDTANK's LCAs from AJIK- $430 and they come with the OEM bushings already installed. YAY!
MAF LCA's as recommended by a user- $319/set
• Rear upper control arms- According to LANDTANK: "with a 4" lift and my LCAs you don't need upper adjustable arms. My arms correct the pinion angle to retain alignment for the stock rear drive shaft to run properly." So if going LT's LCAs, you don't need but since I have to replace the bushings anyway and I would prefer OEM, I am going with LANDTANK's:
Slee's Rear Upper Control Arms- $459
MAF's offering- $299
LANDTANK decided to make some anyway- $399 These are solid rod, factory length and pressed with OEM bushings. - Ordered
• Suspension Bushings- I will be replacing all suspension bushings found on the truck. I've already send AKELLA a PM to get his complete bushing kit (minus the LCA bushings). Just bought these from AKELLA:
OEM Bushings minus the LCAs and Caster bushings- $305 and just ordered.
• Caster correction plates and bushings- I will most likely just be going with Landtank's plates. I need to find out more about what is needed on the bushing side to get the caster offset but nothing more reading won't remedy.
MetalTech's Caster Plates- $139.95
Slee's Caster Plates- $139
Ironman Caster Plates- $131
LANTANK's Caster Plates from VanGo at AJIK Overland- $185
Tacoma shaft and Caster Plates from AJIK- $595
Ironman's Caster Correction Bushings- $88/set
Slee's Caster Correction Bushings- $135/set
TJM 3.5º caster bushings- $150/set
• Driveshaft- I resigned myself to the fact that it would probably be in my best interest to go with the Tacoma Double Cardon driveshaft. Slee has a new one but Landtank has a rebuilt one.
Slee's new front driveshaft- $645 contains new u-joints
LANDTANK's rebuilt driveshaft sold thru AJIK Overland- $475 contains used u-joints
Same driveshaft WITH LANTANK's caster plates- $595 I went this route
• Breather extensions- I started this project awhile ago but never completed it. Here is the perfect time to actually wrap that up. Now there are plenty of breather threads and I will add in the ones that I think helped me decide what I was going to do. Here is the one that I started but never finished, now I can:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/223544-diff-breather-manifold.html
A cool 4 line manifold kit from AUS- $129 is AUS bucks
BRC Manifold kit also from AUS- $170
42 Draft bling- $60- Just got this in, I DO NOT recommend it.
Breather vents maybe?
• Sway bar extensions- I see that Slee and MetalTech make pretty much the same thing so I will just purchase as needed. Are new sway bar links needed? Found a couple options but they are all the same thing, available in 1.5" and 2" along with the s***ty ones from Man-a-Fre:
MetalTech sway bar spacers- $40/pair
Slee sway bar spacers- $41/pair Ordered Slee's front blocks and rear drops
s***ty Man-a-Fre drop Brackets- $31.95/pair
LANDTANK's Extended Heavy Duty Sway Bar links with front weld on tab- went with these but didn't install the front tab.
• Load Sensing Proportion Valve drop bracket- I've been reading a few threads that mention this. But I don't see a ready made product, only home growns. Based on this thread maybe there is nothing else needed other than to adjust the LSPV and call it a day: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/168274-lspv-bracket-mod-axle.html
Another thread on the topic: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/277890-lspv-nightmare-solved-kustom-mount-w-pics.html
• Steering Stabilizer- Is just mounting a shock/stabilizer enough here or are there other options? I think I am going to just order the OME from SLEE.
OME steering damper- $79
Ironman steering damper- $88
A few options from Tough Dog- $120-300 I am looking at the coil over "extreme" as its designed for Land Cruisers with at least 4" lift and larger tires
• Draglink-
Marlin's draglink- $122
Bud Built Draglink- $130 Purchased Bud's Tie-rod and Draglink. Total was $310 delivered for both in black powder and extra thick walled sleeve.
Have I missed anything?
I will be posting what I get, what I paid and how it was installed. Most know I like to document the hell out of everything I do.
At about 60k it started to develop the "cruiser lean". At that point it also needed new shocks. So I replaced the shocks with LandCrusier shocks in stead of the Lexus shocks that it came with. My wife hated the feel ever since. At around 200k we started feeling the rocking boat effect. But I was being stubborn about spending the time and money on getting a lift. Thanks to RETROFIVE I got his fairly low mileage stock springs. That helped. But now, at 300k, the springs are shot. The shocks aren't doing their job and I just feel that things are dangerous now because the truck is now bouncing all over the place. Every part of the suspension feels old. I haven't checked yet but I don't have much hope for the bushings.
When I started thinking about the lift I had to first decide why I wanted a lift and what height I was looking for. I have an IPOR dual swing rear bumper. I have tons of tools and spares and emergency crap in the back. I am currently running 33" tires but am willing to go taller. I have dual batteries but a stock front bumper and no winch. Eventually I will but not yet. So there is a lot of weight to consider.
I do a lot of miles because we drive all over the place, regardless of the price of gas . We also do semi regular trips up North, usually to Yellowstone. Mammoth and Death Valley are semi common trips. If its wild boulder hopping where you will spend 6 hours traveling 500 yards, I'm not interested. That's nowhere near my kind of fun.
So why lift? Why not stay stock? Simple, my wife covets the 80s in the area that are lifted. Now that we have to spend a bunch of money just to get everything back to stock but new, might as well spend a few more bucks and do the lift. So if she's given the green light then I might as well go for it. I still have the S/C to finish but there just isn't time.
So how much Lift? I've decided on 4". The Slee 6" looks cool but it just not practical for a truck that sees 95% hwy driving plus all the issues that need to be taken care of by going that high. I thought about 2.5" but the trucks that have the OME 2.5" don't really look all that lifted. So I settled on 4" but one of the first things I noticed when doing a search and checking the FAQs was that there were hardly any threads on specifically the 4" lift. So I figured I would detail what I am doing.
Now I am only starting this whole process. I've done nothing but send a few PMs and read a few threads. Much like my engine rebuild thread, I will detail my thought process here, get everyone's feedback and then detail my build. It will be slow and methodical. I won't buy anything until its been well thought through and others have vetted it. So I will be definitely looking for assistance in selecting and building up the kit. Unfortunately for me, suspension is my knowledge week point on this or any vehicle for that matter.
So here is what I know that I will need and my thoughts:
• Front and rear springs- I think this is going to be the toughest decision. I want to make sure that I still get the well rounded road manners the LX had on day one of buying it, but still have the off road manners with all the laden weight that is needed. I also need to throw out there that I would really just prefer black springs. I really don't want colored springs. It just bugs me but I won't let it be a deal killer. I can paint them one I figure out the correct paint for them that is good and flexible.
Slee's 4" springs- $240/pair front or rear- after a conversation with Christo (and driving a few trucks) I decided on Slee's medium front and medium rears.
OME $169/pair front or rear
Ironman 4" springs- $165/pair fronts
Ironman 4" springs- $165/pair rear
TJM 3.5" HD springs set- $400/set
• Front and rear shocks- this is where I am really looking to upgrade. I'm just tired of the stock shocks I've been running and I just wants something that will handle everything that we throw at it. I have to say that I am leaning towards the reservoir shocks from Radflo, Slee or Fox. I really want the best I can get instead of regretting the money I spent. I do not know the correct answers and will instead use suggestions. Slee lists only 2.5" but says longer are available.
Slee reservoir shocks- $445 front/$400 rear (*note, these are for 2.5")
RadFlo 4" shocks from MetalTech- $375/ea. for the fronts (extrapolating from the 2.5" price)
RadFlo 4" shocks from MetalTech- $375/ea. for the rears (extrapolating from the 2.5" price)
Ironman Foam Cell fronts- $122/ea.
Ironman Foam Cell rears- $122/ea.
Bilstein 7100 shocks over at Marlins- $193/ea.
FOX 2.0 Shocks- $227.00 ea. fronts/$187.00 ea. rears
Actually wound up getting OME Nitro shocks for the time being. Purchased from Slee. I'm going to give these a fair shake before deciding on an upgrade.
• Front spring spacers- Its my understanding that these are needed for either curing the problem of the cruiser lean or for stink big. If there is another use, it elude me. IF needed, is it better to go with the polyurethane space or metal spacers like MetalTech makes? Poly bushings tend to split. MetalTech metal spacers only come in 1.5" and 2". I had a fellow mudder donate a set of 2" metal spacers. Damn cool of him
Slee's poly bushings- $45/pair
MetalTech's 1.5" spring spacers- $144.95/pair
MetalTech's 2" spring spacers- $144.95/pair
Ironman poly trim packers- $24.00
• Bump Stops- This is a discussion that has come up lately in the thread. The bumpstops could be dropped with a spacer to get the right height but now I'm looking for other options.
Timbren Bump Stop from Just Differentials- $215/pair
Radflo hydraulic bump stop- $170/ea. Tons of fabrication needed in order to install these on the truck.
Jounce's Air Bump Stops- $280/ea. Super spending but DELANCY seems to like them
• Longer brake lines- These were installed the last time I did all of my brakes over a year ago. Got these from Slee and they have been fine so far. Pretty much Slee is the only game in town for this: Slee's extended brake lines- $99 (93-97)
• Front and rear Panhard (lateral support) Bars- It seems from what I have been reading that its best to go with adjustable because every truck seems to need different levels of adjustment. I've only seen options from TJM and Slee. Any others that should be considered?
Slees' front and rear adjustable panhard bars- $250/ea.
Ironman adjustable panhard bars- $157/ea.
TJM adjustable panhard bar kit- $350
OME Front Panhard Rod $297.99 (#PAN3050)
OME Rear Panhard Rod $264.88 (#PANR008)
Landtanks DIY joint kit- ordered up a set of these for $215
• Rear lower control arms- This is one of those items that I've already decided on and I am going to go with Landtank's LCAs with the OEM bushings already pressed in. Ordered just now from AJIK Overland:
LANDTANK's LCAs from AJIK- $430 and they come with the OEM bushings already installed. YAY!
MAF LCA's as recommended by a user- $319/set
• Rear upper control arms- According to LANDTANK: "with a 4" lift and my LCAs you don't need upper adjustable arms. My arms correct the pinion angle to retain alignment for the stock rear drive shaft to run properly." So if going LT's LCAs, you don't need but since I have to replace the bushings anyway and I would prefer OEM, I am going with LANDTANK's:
Slee's Rear Upper Control Arms- $459
MAF's offering- $299
LANDTANK decided to make some anyway- $399 These are solid rod, factory length and pressed with OEM bushings. - Ordered
• Suspension Bushings- I will be replacing all suspension bushings found on the truck. I've already send AKELLA a PM to get his complete bushing kit (minus the LCA bushings). Just bought these from AKELLA:
OEM Bushings minus the LCAs and Caster bushings- $305 and just ordered.
• Caster correction plates and bushings- I will most likely just be going with Landtank's plates. I need to find out more about what is needed on the bushing side to get the caster offset but nothing more reading won't remedy.
MetalTech's Caster Plates- $139.95
Slee's Caster Plates- $139
Ironman Caster Plates- $131
LANTANK's Caster Plates from VanGo at AJIK Overland- $185
Tacoma shaft and Caster Plates from AJIK- $595
Ironman's Caster Correction Bushings- $88/set
Slee's Caster Correction Bushings- $135/set
TJM 3.5º caster bushings- $150/set
• Driveshaft- I resigned myself to the fact that it would probably be in my best interest to go with the Tacoma Double Cardon driveshaft. Slee has a new one but Landtank has a rebuilt one.
Slee's new front driveshaft- $645 contains new u-joints
LANDTANK's rebuilt driveshaft sold thru AJIK Overland- $475 contains used u-joints
Same driveshaft WITH LANTANK's caster plates- $595 I went this route
• Breather extensions- I started this project awhile ago but never completed it. Here is the perfect time to actually wrap that up. Now there are plenty of breather threads and I will add in the ones that I think helped me decide what I was going to do. Here is the one that I started but never finished, now I can:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/223544-diff-breather-manifold.html
A cool 4 line manifold kit from AUS- $129 is AUS bucks
BRC Manifold kit also from AUS- $170
42 Draft bling- $60- Just got this in, I DO NOT recommend it.
Breather vents maybe?
• Sway bar extensions- I see that Slee and MetalTech make pretty much the same thing so I will just purchase as needed. Are new sway bar links needed? Found a couple options but they are all the same thing, available in 1.5" and 2" along with the s***ty ones from Man-a-Fre:
MetalTech sway bar spacers- $40/pair
Slee sway bar spacers- $41/pair Ordered Slee's front blocks and rear drops
s***ty Man-a-Fre drop Brackets- $31.95/pair
LANDTANK's Extended Heavy Duty Sway Bar links with front weld on tab- went with these but didn't install the front tab.
• Load Sensing Proportion Valve drop bracket- I've been reading a few threads that mention this. But I don't see a ready made product, only home growns. Based on this thread maybe there is nothing else needed other than to adjust the LSPV and call it a day: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/168274-lspv-bracket-mod-axle.html
Another thread on the topic: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/277890-lspv-nightmare-solved-kustom-mount-w-pics.html
• Steering Stabilizer- Is just mounting a shock/stabilizer enough here or are there other options? I think I am going to just order the OME from SLEE.
OME steering damper- $79
Ironman steering damper- $88
A few options from Tough Dog- $120-300 I am looking at the coil over "extreme" as its designed for Land Cruisers with at least 4" lift and larger tires
• Draglink-
Marlin's draglink- $122
Bud Built Draglink- $130 Purchased Bud's Tie-rod and Draglink. Total was $310 delivered for both in black powder and extra thick walled sleeve.
Have I missed anything?
I will be posting what I get, what I paid and how it was installed. Most know I like to document the hell out of everything I do.
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