No spark, no fuel, Yes Crank

Arsenal1 · 06-09-12, 07:04 AM

hey guys, my cruiser died two nights ago while idling for approx 10mins... I fired it back up and died immediately... I have all lights, CEL, replaced COR, tested EFI relay, checked all fuses, checked continuity on fusible links... fuel pump and related is good as I hard wired for a split second before I replaced the COR, touched the wires together and fuel shot out of return line at regulator.... Basically i've completed all requirements and checks listed in the FAQ...

Both symptoms of no fuel or spark happened simultaneously. As I'm getting power to the ECU its obviously something that controls both spark and fuel. How about the CPS??

bsmart82 · 06-09-12, 04:30 PM

Crank sensor signal will cause it to loose both fuel and spark. Did you check for codes?

Arsenal1 · 06-09-12, 05:00 PM

I attempted to check codes per several threads explaining the paperclip method but my CEL didn't flash. Although my CEL is on and illuminated.... This is probably due to my resetting the computer like an idiot prior to running across the threads for checking codes via paperclip method... I've worn my foot out kicking myself in the ***

Arsenal1 · 06-09-12, 05:03 PM

Anyone have voltage readings for CPS to test with multimeter???

george_tlc · 06-09-12, 05:03 PM

Your 96 should be obd2, you need a code reader, not a paperclip....

cheers,
george.

Arsenal1 · 06-09-12, 05:10 PM

thats what i'm screamin.... tried that route and discovered it has the obd1 diagnostics despite being classified as a 1996 via VIN lookup thru toyota dealership. Inside the door it states it was manufactured 8/1995.... who knows... There seems to be 2 connection ports, one under hood passenger side sitting on firewall that says Diagnostics and another inside fuse panel on drivers side....

Arsenal1 · 06-09-12, 05:11 PM

If I got fed some misinformation please send me in the correct direction.... You guys are the "Yodas" not I... Thanks again for the help I sure do appreciate it.

Koffer · 06-09-12, 05:17 PM

the one you need to use is the one under the fuses in the dash . the other one under the hood is for ABS/trans etc .

jonheld · 06-09-12, 05:56 PM

If there's a connector on the top of the fuse panel by the driver's left knee then you're OBD2, as that is the OBD2 port.

jbma327 · 06-09-12, 11:28 PM

I'm new here, but I do work on all kind of imports. It seems like you could be having issue with your ecu. First thing I would do is check all your fuses. Then go from there. Did do any wiring or work on your car prior to this situation?

landtank · 06-10-12, 05:42 AM

if it cranks over and does not fire I would look at the alternator. If it cranks over fires up and dies then I'd look at the MAF sensor.

mjl132 · 06-10-12, 08:56 PM

It will tell you under the hood on the drivers side if it's OBD II compliant.

Pin_Head · 06-10-12, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landtank

if it cranks over and does not fire I would look at the alternator.

And the muffler bearings!

Arsenal1 · 06-10-12, 09:36 PM

No wiring performed at all.... I've ruled out the alternator as the lack of spark and fuel came simultaneously... I haven't read anywhere that a faulty MAF would completely cut off spark and fuel at the same time.... I could be wrong but...

And yes to everyone that corrected me on the OBD2... yall were right... I'll bum a code reader tomorrow and hook that puppy up.

jbma327 · 06-10-12, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arsenal1

No wiring performed at all.... I've ruled out the alternator as the lack of spark and fuel came simultaneously... I haven't read anywhere that a faulty MAF would completely cut off spark and fuel at the same time.... I could be wrong but...

And yes to everyone that corrected me on the OBD2... yall were right... I'll bum a code reader tomorrow and hook that puppy up.

The alternator will not cause the problem. If your car can turn over with the battery then there should be more then enough juice for your injectors, fuel pump, and lignitors to create spark.

The maf will cause too much or too less fuel, but will not affect spark.

How did you come to the conclusion that the motor is not getting fuel? Is the fuel pump turning on?

BlackLS1 · 06-11-12, 02:12 AM

there is that big wire harness next to the egr that sometimes gets melted due to the heat. you should check that. if you think its your MAF, try unplugging it and start it, Crankshaft position sensor is another thing to replace.

landtank · 06-11-12, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

And the muffler bearings!

really

Arsenal1 · 06-11-12, 07:39 AM

I don't want to double post but here's the scenario listed in my first post "I have all lights, CEL, replaced COR, tested EFI relay, checked all fuses, checked continuity on fusible links... fuel pump and related is good as I hard wired for a split second before I replaced the COR, touched the wires together and fuel shot out of return line at regulator.... Basically i've completed all requirements and checks listed in the FAQ...

Both symptoms of no fuel or spark happened simultaneously. As I'm getting power to the ECU its obviously something that controls both spark and fuel. How about the CPS??"""""

Tools R Us · 06-11-12, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arsenal1

... checked continuity on fusible links...

The wire in the fusible links is somewhat brittle, can crack/break where it will pass the continuity test, but not carry enough currant to run the stuff. My favorite test is to simply pull on them, you should not be able to pull them apart. If one separates, it was bad/failed. The "correct test"; connect a meter to the link connection, should read battery voltage. Crank the motor, should still read battery crank voltage, if way low, it's bad.

jbma327 · 06-12-12, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arsenal1

fuel pump and related is good as I hard wired for a split second before I replaced the COR, touched the wires together and fuel shot out of return line at regulator.... Basically i've completed all requirements and checks listed in the FAQ...

Hot wiring your fuel pump will not determine if you really getting fuel to your engine or not. The check if your ecu is sending signal to kick on your fuel pump, you can go in the engine bay and fine the rubber gas fuel line (connected to the fuel filter), squeeze it with your hand (should be soft), and at the same time have somebody turn the key to the ON position. If you feel the gas line getting hard(fuel pressure from the pump), then your ecu works on sending signals to your pump.

If you keep cranking the key, do you smell fuel? As if your engine is getting flooded with gas? If that's the case then you will know if your not getting spark.

Hope these info help