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Old 10-11-05, 02:51 AM   #61
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I kind of get it, so the wheels are driven by a ring instead of an axle shaft? Sorry for being such a neophyte I'm trying to learn.


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Old 10-11-05, 04:50 AM   #62
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Old 10-11-05, 08:05 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyk438
I kind of get it, so the wheels are driven by a ring instead of an axle shaft? Sorry for being such a neophyte I'm trying to learn.
If you look at this picture....

You can see that the front axle is about 5" above the center of the wheel.

That is because there is a "portal" hub at each end of the axle (shown in the diagram in the post above) that extends down the 5", which the wheel is then mounted to.

Other vehicles that have portals are Mercedes Unimogs. H1's use portals as well, only in a fully independent suspension design.
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Old 10-11-05, 08:48 AM   #64
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That is very cool! One issue I wonder about is the distance between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub flange. It would seem the tire would rquire deep wheel wells in order to make a complete swing lock to lock. Am I missing something here?


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Old 10-11-05, 08:52 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben
That is very cool! One issue I wonder about is the distance between the steering knuckle and the wheel hub flange. It would seem the tire would rquire deep wheel wells in order to make a complete swing lock to lock. Am I missing something here?
That's why the wheels are backspaced 8" (the width of the wheel) that way the pivot point is the same as a conventional axle.
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Old 10-11-05, 09:38 AM   #66
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What is the overall gear ratio for the axle?

Ring and Pinion Ratio * Geared Hub Ratio.

The HUMMER H1 is 4.92 ratio IIRC.


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Old 10-11-05, 09:43 AM   #67
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Old 10-11-05, 09:59 AM   #68
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So, these axles are from what type/year of unimog? Is the maint. of these axles is in the same level as doing a birf job or more complicated as far as the axle seals and bearings are concerned? Great work . Did you make those drive shaft flange yourself? This is the MOST clean and quick swap I have ever seen. OUTSTANDING!!


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Old 10-11-05, 10:01 AM   #69
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They aren't from a Unimog, they are Volvo.


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Old 10-11-05, 10:09 AM   #70
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OOps! That's what I meant to say, VOLVO. Thanks for the correction. BTW, have you used the stock/custom sway bars or there none? What's your take on that?

Thanks


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Old 10-11-05, 10:14 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiredIronGRB
That's why the wheels are backspaced 8" (the width of the wheel) that way the pivot point is the same as a conventional axle.
Ahhhh....that makes sense, hard to tell from the pictures....thank you!


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Old 10-11-05, 10:19 AM   #72
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Looks awesome!

I can't help but comment on the fact that it looks VERY narrow though. Seems you would want a little less backspacing on the wheels to widen the stance a bit. Maybe it's just an illusion, but the stance looks narrower than stock.

Ary


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Old 10-11-05, 10:47 AM   #73
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It's about the same, 72" outside of tire to outside of tire. The extra weight of the axles helps keep it firmly planted as you can see here with the Volvo 6x6 I had side angles are no problem.

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Old 10-11-05, 09:23 PM   #74
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I updated the build page tonight, it shows the timeline a little better.
http://tired-iron.mounet.com/Grace4x...LC/default.htm
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Old 10-12-05, 03:19 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi
Looks awesome!

I can't help but comment on the fact that it looks VERY narrow though. Seems you would want a little less backspacing on the wheels to widen the stance a bit. Maybe it's just an illusion, but the stance looks narrower than stock.

Ary

I kinda thought that as well Ary. I really love the concept but would definately want some wider tires / larger footprint with that height rig. Course I could probably tip it over no matter what.


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Old 10-13-05, 07:45 PM   #76
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Some flex shots...




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Old 10-13-05, 08:09 PM   #77
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how does the flex compare to regular axles?


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Old 10-13-05, 08:11 PM   #78
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I would thing it's about the same since the suspension was unchanged. I never got to wheel it before the swap. This truck had never been off road.
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Old 10-13-05, 08:29 PM   #79
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Some of these guys are hard to please but I am very impressed with the straight foward out of the box engineering you used to make the volvo axles work, not to mention all the measuring you had to do . You are a can do kind of guy very impressive. This kind of thinking usually pushes everyone to the next level, but what do I know, the most off roading I do is turning around on a old farm road to go the other way on a two lane paved highway...

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Old 10-13-05, 08:43 PM   #80
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Old 10-13-05, 09:19 PM   #81
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Looks freaking awesome!

Do the lugnuts actually protrude out further than the rim? Anything you can do to keep them from getting mangled?
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Old 10-13-05, 09:57 PM   #82
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WOW! Have been a fan of portals/MOGS for along time...and more recently LC. All I gotta say is...I want one. Make mine a TD too

Congrats...that is alot of work, mods, measurin, knuckle bust'n, cuss'n, patience...but you perservered!


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Old 10-13-05, 10:02 PM   #83
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Tired iron,

I emailed the previous owner, Todd. Sent him a link to this thread. He's love what you've done with the truck and he should be very proud. Just thought id pass that on.


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Old 10-14-05, 05:47 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
Looks freaking awesome!

Do the lugnuts actually protrude out further than the rim? Anything you can do to keep them from getting mangled?
Yes, they do a little but they are massive and with the Volvo 6X6 I had it never was an issue and I wheeled the crap out of it.
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Old 10-14-05, 06:43 AM   #85
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TiredIron-lookin at your web-site photos and just a quick glance. VERY COOL BTW. I would say you will GREATLY increase areticulation with the right shock set up. Because it looks to me your shock mounts (on the rear axle installed picture) near the stock location in relation to the portal drop and the axle housing is sitting at stock height, it appears that your shocks are severely limited from the get go. You could probably go with 14" shocks w/o new springs and see a much larger droop. Otherwise, check out ActionJackson's web site and see his double shock set up-he created a new stud on the control arm w/ OME shocks and went near to the stock upper mount-I would guess this way stock shocks would be about sized correctly.

I may be missing something from the photos though. VERY NICE... In Vegas they may call that "money baby, money!"


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Old 10-14-05, 06:57 AM   #86
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I think I will order a set of 2" heavy springs and shocks today, I think the 3" would be too much lift. I kinda hate to go with larger springs I like being able to say "Sure, you can run 38s on stock springs"
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Old 10-14-05, 08:27 AM   #87
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It's been discussed before I think, but the difference between the OME medium (851/860) springs and heavy (850/863) springs is about an inch in height, as the spring rates are the same.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...&highlight=863

If you just want 2" of lift, you might want to go with just the "medium" springs. Talk with whoever you order