Silly elockr/cdl question (1 Viewer)

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I did the 7 pin and cdl switch mod hoping to also be able to engage my lockers whenever i wanted...unfortunately it seems they only work when the cdl is locked... Is there a mod for the lockers so they can be engaged at anytime (cdl locked and unlocked) and in any tcase gearing(like the grey wire mod on the tacomas)? Thanks for any help:)

Edit: they work in hi and low range, but they dont work if the cdl is unlocked.
 
There is a pink wire with a black stripe (at least that's the color on the 97 elocker ECU) connected to pin 15 of the elocker ECU. If you cut that wire and ground the pigtail connected to the ECU then the elocker ECU will think that the CDL is always locked and you can then lock and unlock the diff locks at will. The other end can just be capped.

If you look at post #3 in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html it should be obvious what I'm talking about.

Personally I think that's a step too far but whatever floats your boat.
 
Pardon if this is a dumb question, but what's the benefit of being able to control the lockers independently of the CDL? (For the 4runner install I get it, but for the 80...)
 
You would be able lock the rear in high without the CDL locked splitting the power 50/50.
 
It sucks to have The cdl locked all the time. When traction is marginally good i wont slip a wheel with the elockers engaged so i dont need the cdl( and the drivetrain all bound up because of it). Its easier to steer w the front locker engaged if the cdl isnt locked...lots of variables. If u do a lot of different types of wheeling on lots of different terrain, the more options the better...I always had twin sticks and arbs in previous trucks... The more options the better(up to a certain point, dont want it confusing cause theres a million switches, etc).
 
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There is a pink wire with a black stripe (at least that's the color on the 97 elocker ECU) connected to pin 15 of the elocker ECU. If you cut that wire and ground the pigtail connected to the ECU then the elocker ECU will think that the CDL is always locked and you can then lock and unlock the diff locks at will. The other end can just be capped.

If you look at post #3 in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html it should be obvious what I'm talking about.

Personally I think that's a step too far but whatever floats your boat.

Right on, thAnks! That link has lots of great info
 
Pardon if this is a dumb question, but what's the benefit of being able to control the lockers independently of the CDL? (For the 4runner install I get it, but for the 80...)

Massive snowy donuts and drifting. :hillbilly:
 
Massive snowy donuts and drifting. :hillbilly:

This made me chuckle. Reminds me of drifting my AMX (300+ hp) so many years ago...and donuts in the snow in Utah last year. Thanks.
 
I've been wondering whether this could be done for a while. It's interesting to see that it can. Does doing this mod make your ABS always on since the ecu thinks the center diff is locked? If so can someone come up with a way to intermittently "block" the 15 pin wire with a switch and teach me how to do it since I am an electrical retard?
 
Will doing this mod cause damage to the viscous coupler in the transfer case? Maybe we can define which part does what and what it will do when it is modified? Like the CDL, and what happens when you do the 7 pin mod. Or any of the other mods, like adding a CDL to a vehicle that didn't come with one from the factory.
 
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Will doing this mod cause damage to the viscous coupler in the transfer case?

It shouldn't.

Maybe we can define which part does what and what it will do when it is modified?

Which parts do you need defined?

Like the CDL, and what happens when you do the 7 pin mod. Or any of the other mods, like adding a CDL to a vehicle that didn't come with one from the factory.

What happens has been pretty well documented.
 
It shouldn't.



Which parts do you need defined?



What happens has been pretty well documented.

I didn't mean for me. I meant for some of the others who might not know what all the parts do and when to use them, and how that changes when certain mods are done.
Yes, I'm well aware of the 7 pin mod and it's documentation. Before I bought my '93, I read about every pertinent Landcruiser thread ad nauseam.
I had to do a fair amount of research to figure out what my vehicle did when it was stock compared to what it does since the PO's made mods like adding a CDL. Does that make sense? It took me more time to figure out what it wasn't doing after the mods than what it was doing.
 
It shouldn't.



Which parts do you need defined?



What happens has been pretty well documented.

Yes, no 7 pin mod and cdl arguements or tangents here please!!!! This was a simple wiring question. I dont want my thread hijacked by *SUMO* and his 'expert rallycross car engineering and race car driving holy grail of knowlege' LOL!!!!!
 
I've been wondering whether this could be done for a while. It's interesting to see that it can. Does doing this mod make your ABS always on since the ecu thinks the center diff is locked? If so can someone come up with a way to intermittently "block" the 15 pin wire with a switch and teach me how to do it since I am an electrical retard?

I don't see any connection to the ABS system on these wiring diagrams so I have no idea what turns off the ABS system when the CDL is locked. I do know from experience that the CDL switch harness contains more than one wire so perhaps that same switch drives another circuit as well which turns off the ABS. If that's the case then you would be able to lock the front and rear diffs with ABS still on. I have no idea if that is a problem or not.

For the record, I have not done this mod on an 80. I only know how to defeat the CDL switch logic because I installed an 80 elocker ECU in an 85 4Runner with a manual transmission and therefore no CDL.

Also FWIW, I don't advocate nor would I ever do this mod. I don't see the point.
 
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One more thing I should mention. Post 29 of this link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html shows slightly different wiring colors. I think these diagrams are from the earlier 80s, maybe pre 95? Anyway, if you are looking around your elocker ECU harness and don't see a pink wire with a black stripe then you might check out these diagrams as they show a yellow wire with a black stripe. Again, I'm pretty sure the change happened between 94 and 95.
 
There is a pink wire with a black stripe (at least that's the color on the 97 elocker ECU) connected to pin 15 of the elocker ECU. If you cut that wire and ground the pigtail connected to the ECU then the elocker ECU will think that the CDL is always locked and you can then lock and unlock the diff locks at will. The other end can just be capped.

If you look at post #3 in this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ng-trd-elockers-fzj80-elocker-ecu-switch.html it should be obvious what I'm talking about.

Personally I think that's a step too far but whatever floats your boat.

Booger weldz: can't you just do this to achieve your goal of being able to lock and unlock the lockers at any time, instead of all the CDL/7 pin mods?
 
Booger weldz: can't you just do this to achieve your goal of being able to lock and unlock the lockers at any time, instead of all the CDL/7 pin mods?

Yeah, But i wanted to ditch the cdl in low range at times and be able to engage it in high others...

Im guessing wareagle isnt really into this mod cause he wheels a different terrain where he lives...it SUCKS to steer w the front locker and cdl engaged on certain parts of the niagara rim, rubicon, fordyce, etc in the sierra nevada granite... Just releasing the cdl eases up steering enough on my rig(w front locker engaged) to make it work...
 
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Yeah, But i wanted to ditch the cdl in low range at times and be able to engage it in high others...

Im guessing wareagle isnt really into this mod cause he wheels a different terrain where he lives...it SUCKS to steer w the front locker and cdl engaged on certain parts of the niagara rim, rubicon, fordyce, etc in the sierra nevada granite... Just releasing the cdl eases up steering enough on my rig(w front locker engaged) to make it work...

So even if you do the CDL/7 pin mod, then ground the wire out he was talking about, you still won't be able to turn the CDL off with the lockers engaged? I thought doing the CDL/7 pin gave you control of that. So, basically you want the ability to turn your lockers (front or rear) on or off in low range or high range while being able to engage or disengage the CDL in high or low range with lockers engaged or disengaged. You just want each item to function no matter what the others are doing.
 
So even if you do the CDL/7 pin mod, then ground the wire out he was talking about, you still won't be able to turn the CDL off with the lockers engaged? I thought doing the CDL/7 pin gave you control of that. So, basically you want the ability to turn your lockers (front or rear) on or off in low range or high range while being able to engage or disengage the CDL in high or low range with lockers engaged or disengaged. You just want each item to function no matter what the others are doing.

Huh???? I think uve confused urself as to what does what...i have manual control of my cdl. I put a hazard light switch on the dash...Go read the cdl and 7 pin mods again...Or better yet, do them! Its a simple great modif....Originally i didnt give two s***s as this big heavy tank was never gonna be as capable as my previous rigs, but after one wheeling season, i really like the super stationwagon!!:D
 

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