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Old 08-15-05, 08:02 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandCruiserPhil
Dan what is the dia. of the 94 3.0 V6 blade? How did the fan spacer pan out with the new fan? How is the 94 3.0 V6 blade different from the OEM fan?

The 94 3.0 blade, 16361-65020, is about 1/8 of an inch give or take closer to the radiator than the top edge of the ring on the ring fan (16361-65010) and is the same diameter as the inner ring which is about 17 inches. The 65020 fan has 7 blades like the 65010 fan. The original fan, 16361-66020 has 8 blades and is a larger diameter. I do not have one at home to measure, I'll do that later. The original fan is a teensy bit closer to the radiator than the 65020 fan is. That plus the additional diameter is where the problem with the lower part of the shroud will come into play.

D-


Edit to add additional info:

The original fan, 16361-66020 is 18 1/2 inches in diameter.


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Last edited by cruiserdan; 08-15-05 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 08-15-05, 08:04 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoDoug
Dan,

Nice work! So, is there an air gap on the top area of the shroud that could potentially be tightened up a bit to maximize airflow (by minimizing shroud to fan clearance up top)? I'm too lazy to go out and look at my trucks..

DougM

Since the fan is smaller in diameter there is a larger gap all the way around the shroud. I'm not sure how one could fasten something to the shroud to safely close that gap. I would be concerned about it getting loose and have the fan catch it and rip things apart.


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Old 08-15-05, 08:13 AM   #93
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Wow, great thread, I want to clarify something though, has anyone had a fan blade hit a radiator on a non-supercharged, non-bodylifted vehicle? I cannot tell from all the posts about trimming blades and shortening spacers, etc, whether a vehicle with stock blade and stock body mounts has ever had this problem??? Thanks.


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Old 08-15-05, 08:16 AM   #94
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I have not heard of a blade-to-radiator or shroud clearance issue on a vehicle with stock mounting of the fan / vs body.


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Old 08-15-05, 08:45 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan
I have not heard of a blade-to-radiator or shroud clearance issue on a vehicle with stock mounting of the fan / vs body.

Cool, thanks, if anyone would have heard of it, you would have heard, so thanks again.


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Old 08-15-05, 09:54 AM   #96
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It has happened during water crossings. The extra density of water enables the fan to flex into the radiator. Not a typical every day occurence.
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Old 08-15-05, 01:17 PM   #97
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What is the cost and availability for the 16361-65010 3.0 fan? You stated that the OEM fan is larger in diameter, and slightly closer. Do you have the height measurement difference? do you think that trimming the OEM fan and the shroud would be succesful?


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Old 08-15-05, 01:40 PM   #98
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You do not want the 16361-65010, that is the ringed fan. The original 1FZ fan (16361-66020) is about 1/4 inch closer to the radiator and about and inch and a half larger in diameter. I do not like the idea of trimming the blades. I do not trust myself to get them even enough. I'm afraid that an un-trimmed 66020 fan would hit the bottom seam of the radiator even with the shroud cut away.

The 16361-65020 (no ring 3.0 V6) lists for $98.58 and board members pay $73.93.


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Old 08-15-05, 04:25 PM   #99
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180* trermostat

I know I'm throwing this in late here but I'm running a 180* T-stat and I consistantly see 190-195* temps when warmed up and no closed loop/open loop ecu issues verified by the ecu from the OBDII port (scan tool) and also my Raytek minitem MT4 IR thermometer. I like the temperature margin it affords me. 220* is cutting it awful close.


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Old 08-15-05, 04:37 PM   #100
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Where did you get a 180 for a 1FZ? The OEM is 190 and the TRD is 160.


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Old 08-15-05, 05:16 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan
Where did you get a 180 for a 1FZ? The OEM is 190 and the TRD is 160.
I don't remember where off hand. I still have the box w/the part # and brand at the house but I know you can get 170* and 180* thermostats at NAPA.
Stant, Gates, and Beck/Arnley make them.

When I get home tonight I will grab the box and post it.


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Old 08-16-05, 11:50 AM   #102
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Dan, how much clearance is there between the back of the fan and the pulleys? Is the fan still set deep into the shroud?


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Last edited by Tools R Us; 08-16-05 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 08-16-05, 12:25 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tools R Us
Dan, how much clearance is there between the back of the fan and the pulleys? Is the fan still set deep into the shroud?

Most of the blade depth is inside the shroud. There is about 5/16 of an inch clearance between the back of the blades and the tensioner pulley and there is about 1 and 3/4 of an inch of space between the blade ends and the shroud opening.

D-


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Old 08-16-05, 01:26 PM   #104
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Fans that run in shrouds are most efficient when the blade ends are centered to the shroud opening, if set too deep they loose some flow. If this setup works I would cut some off the spacer, 1/4 inch maybe? The blades only flex forward, so it can be very close to the pulleys.


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Old 08-16-05, 01:51 PM   #105
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Could you define "centered" in a bit more detail please? I would say that about 1/3 of the blade is visible "behind" the trailing edge of the shroud. If I move the blade back towards the engine I will not be able to pivot the tensioner to load the blower belt.


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Old 08-16-05, 02:31 PM   #106
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So Dan, If I read this correctly all I would have to do is order the 16361-65020 and swap it for the ring fan that came with the supercharger kit?
Thanks,
Sean


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Old 08-16-05, 02:34 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTNRAT
So Dan, If I read this correctly all I would have to do is order the 16361-65020 and swap it for the ring fan that came with the supercharger kit?
Thanks,
Sean
That and trim the shroud as shown in post #87


D-


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Old 08-16-05, 02:36 PM   #108
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Sounds simple.
Thanks


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Old 08-16-05, 02:51 PM   #109
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Ok
Danny boy
Whats the #s on the temp now with the new fan compared to the old ringed one ? You have had this setup for almost a few days now . We want hard facts


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Old 08-16-05, 03:13 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan
Could you define "centered" in a bit more detail please? I would say that about 1/3 of the blade is visible "behind" the trailing edge of the shroud. If I move the blade back towards the engine I will not be able to pivot the tensioner to load the blower belt.
If the blade is laying face down on the bench, measure the height of the blade, half of that is the center of the blade. That mark needs to be centered in the parallel section of the fan hole in the shroud. The closer that you can get it to centered the better it will work, but if there isn't room to move it, there isn't anything you can do anyway?

When trimming the shroud also look at sealing it to the radiator and the radiator to the core support as well as possible, high density foam weather stripping from the home center works well.


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Old 08-16-05, 06:06 PM   #111
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my understanding is that air not only moves accross the blade but along it as well. It exits in a conical shape more than a tubular one. The ring on the SC blade basically blocks an exit for the air.


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Old 08-19-05, 10:34 AM   #112
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cooling results with new fan?

C-Dan Has the new fan helped your cooling, now that you have had it on there for a while? Has it helped with the high speed cooling...60mpg plus? We need a conclusion here, you got us all amped up about a possible fix and left us hanging??? Thanks for all you research and input


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Old 08-19-05, 12:14 PM   #113
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I installed it Sunday and went out on one un-loaded test and have been commuting to work this week. I intend to perform a loaded test this weekend. My inital impression is that the cooling is improved but the loaded test will tell the true tale. I will hook up the boat and toss about 450 lbs of ballast in the cargo area (a few cans of M2 ball sould do the trick )

D-


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Old 08-19-05, 01:41 PM   #114
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Dan have you tried the rising temperature ideal test w/AC on, w/o the electric fan, in the sun, at the hottest part of the day and sitting in the truck listening to Glen Campbell’s - By The Time I Get To Phoenix?


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Old 08-19-05, 02:07 PM   #115
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"Try a Little Kindness" actually..........


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Old 08-19-05, 03:13 PM   #116
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Old 09-09-05, 10:05 PM   #117
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C-Dan, how's the new fan been working out?


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Old 09-09-05, 10:31 PM   #118
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Yeah, I'm interested as well. My truck "started getting hot" this summer on a 105F day, in traffic with ac on. The ac did not cut out, and fortunately I was getting on the interstate, which cooled it back down to the idiot proof normal range on the factory gauge.

I'm running factory tstat, have a fan clutch that is coming up on 3 years, and had the the radiator "rodded" ?? out then as well. I plan on doing a flush again before winter hits, and was thinking about installing the different fan and a new fan clutch. I havent had the balls to do the "finger" test.

Worth the time and money? Think it will help keep a SC'd engine cooler?

thanks,
randall


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Old 09-09-05, 10:44 PM   #119
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That would be rodded out.
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