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07-16-05, 06:24 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Forum Regular
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 123
| Baselining Fluids... Recommendations? I am in the process of baselining all fluids. I am thinking about using the following
1. Engine - Mobile1 Synthetic 5w30
2. Transmission - Mobil1 Synthetic ATF
3. Power Steering - Mobil1 Synthetic ATF
4. Cooling - Toyota Red
5. Brake - Toyota Brake Fluid
do they seem reasonable?
Thanks.
__________________ 1997 FZJ80 ~129K Stock; MOONGLOW(1A6); PHH; Headliner Re-Upholstered; |
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07-16-05, 06:35 AM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,450
| Personally I would use synthetic brake fluid.
Also, dont forget transfer case, I use M1 75w90.
And dont forget differentials (front and rear), I also use M1 75w90.
Ohh, according to some experts M1 tends to run somewhat "light" (not really an appropriate description but its all I can come up with) and as such even though the manual recommends 5w30, many, including myself use either M1 0w40 or 5w40. HTH.
Ohh, dont forget the chassis lube for driveshafts etc.
After all that "dont forget"-ing, always remember the mantra of "Fluids and Filters" and your rig will last a long time!
__________________ 97 FZJ80, Locked & Loaded, Safari Turbo, Safari Intercooler, Ceramic Coated Custom Exhaust, Ron Davis Racing Radiator, OME HD 2.5" Suspension, DBA Slotted Rotors, New Toyota Calipers All Around, Toyota Pads, 33" Revos, ARB Front Bumper, Center Diff Switch, Slee Stuff: Roof Rack, Step Sliders, Skid Plates, SS Brake Lines, DC Drive Shaft. HG PM'd, 9.5psi and climbing, My Rocky Mountain Mojo Mobile! |
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07-16-05, 07:01 AM
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#3 (permalink)
| | fatherofdaughterofromer 
Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Centennial, Colorado
Posts: 8,009
| For differentials, I use Redline 75-90W
For the engine, Cary on here has recommended the 0-40W Mobil 1
On baselining the Transmission, you will only be able to drain a small part of whats in there. You can either do multiple drain and fills over a few days to get most of it changed, or yoy can go to a godd shop that does a Fluid exchange rather than a flush (Flush is bad). In the fluid exchange, they use your Tranny Pump to move the fluid allowing it to drain and adding new fluid in until all te old has run through and been replaced.
__________________ Ken Romer ~ Friend of Shaman
Keeper of the FAQ, Defender of Newbies, and Slayer of Tards
Commander Rising Sun 4WD Club - K0ROM
97 LX450, Supercharged, Locked, and lots of other stuff ROTW
96 LX450 - ROD's
06 4Runner - Wife's
99 4Runner - daughterofromer's
03 BMW Z4 Roadster
05 AT Horizon |
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07-16-05, 07:15 AM
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#4 (permalink)
| | TuT Master 
Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: limestone cave, fl
Posts: 512
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Romer For the engine, Cary on here has recommended the 0-40W Mobil 1 | I could not find M1 0w 40 in my area, cary recommended M1 5w 40 Truck and SUV as a good sub. Seems to be working fine. |
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07-16-05, 09:21 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Aguanga, California
Posts: 542
| My theory is cheapo Coastal 10w30 and 85w90 oils (even though I do have Mobil1 in the engine now as a test) and Dexon III and to check and change it often. Sythetics have little advantage until they get old - they are made for long-life and to conserve oil deposits - your truck will prefer frquent changes with lots of clean fresh oil.
__________________ Cheers,
Mike Stevens, Palm Desert, California
'97 FJZ80 "Collector's Edition" Black 132K miles with 3 hub caps |
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07-16-05, 02:34 PM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,798
| MH,
Reducing the advantages of synthetic to "when it's old" is simply not true. It provides superior protection under a variety of conditions and this performance gap widens the harder the engine is used starting on Day 1. It protects the bearings better on cold startup. The curve of its protection breakdown is far shallower than conventional oil. Blah, blah. I categorically disagree with your blanket statement, though I agree that clean fresh oil is the best you can do for your engine.
On the flip side it's expensive.
DougM
__________________ Buy Head Gasket DVD for you OR for your mechanic HERE
'93 FZJ since new, 2.2kw starter, Revo 275s (Michelin Alpins in winter), locked, big Hellas, rr fog, rr flood, rr Airlift, synthetics, ARB bullbar. 97 FZJ - exact same stuff but Michelin X-Ice in winter. |
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07-16-05, 02:39 PM
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#7 (permalink)
| | Forum Lifer
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,825
| There is nothing wrong with mineral oil, but I would suggest you use something better than Coastal. Any of the major brands will have a beefier additive package and better low temp pumping.
__________________ You know your life is screwed up when you are getting divorced, fighting over custody, watching all of your money getting pissed away, being treated by her and her family as the anti-christ, and yet, finding your life has drastically improved. |
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07-16-05, 08:39 PM
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#8 (permalink)
| | 250+ Club
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Aguanga, California
Posts: 542
| OK I stand corrected. Wont argue with Idaho. I'll just use the Coastal as a flush and change all fluids out again soon.
__________________ Cheers,
Mike Stevens, Palm Desert, California
'97 FJZ80 "Collector's Edition" Black 132K miles with 3 hub caps |
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07-17-05, 10:37 AM
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#9 (permalink)
| | Site Addict
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 1,961
| Sounds like you are on the right track going with synthetis. I base lined every fluid, except coolant, in my rig with Amsoil. The benefits of synthetics will pay off in the long run. I had an ATF fluid exchanged done with my Amsoil ATF for $65 at a local shop. It may be me, but after changing out all of my fluids to syn the track is running quieter. (I also think I saw it smiling!)
Fly Rod |
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