Builds The Kbahus Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[kbahus]

Figured I would put all of my old posts in one place and start an actual build thread. I have some fun stuff that will be built soon that will be nice to have documented all in one place. My build has been very frugal, pretty much everything has been purchased lightly used or sourced from the absolute least expensive source I could find.

1996 Land Cruiser with Lockers, 194k miles

When I first picked it up from fellow mudder Dmaddox:

As it sits today:

A/C Relocation to 91-93 Location, thanks Rex at Cool Stream
Custom Front Bumper, thanks Tyler at Hawk Industries
Ironman 2" front springs
OME 862 rear springs
OME N73/N74E shocks
Slee stainless lines
315 BFG KM2's
Poor Man's Interior Tire Carrier
Sway Bar Disconnects
Husky Floor Mats
Exact Fit Seat Covers

Tons of MX stuff too, I will get some pics up soon.

Some past threads of interest with good information for others:


Front Bumper Build
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/444812-kbahuss-front-bumper-build-project.html

Slider Idea
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/509915-slider-idea-need-input.html

Duratrac Tires
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/412963-duratracs-good-compromise-everything.html

315's
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/509166-finally-went-35s.html

Good discussion of up and down travel with 37's.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/462206-up-travel-vs-down-travel-limiting-37-tires.html

Coolstream A/C Relocation
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...-relocation-kit.html?highlight=a/c+relocation

 

[wesayso]

Great looking truck.

 

[kbahus]

Today's project was making a set of sway bar disconnect brackets. It was very simple and can be done with out a welder which is a plus for many of us. I saw something similar by another member browsing through old posts and liked the idea. I ran the Middle St. Vrain trail and Coney Flats without the front sway bar and was very pleased with how much more compliant the front end felt. The actual flex may not be that much more but you can definitely tell, plus it yielded a smoother ride.

All I used was some scrap steel and a couple spring pins (3/8 x 1.5") found at my local hardware store. I initially tried 2" long pins but the E-locker is straight up in the way and the shorter pin fit perfect and was easier to install. I made a cardboard template and traced it out then cut it with a plasma, a cutoff wheel would have worked just fine too. I bent the tab by putting it in a vise then figured out the holes. I am pleased with the finished product and can retain the bar for street driving.

 

[kbahus]

Here are some interior shots. I used some large D-rings bolted through the floor to make a sturdy latch point for the spare.

 

[kbahus]

I have most of the parts for the next project, an over the axle high clearance exhaust. I am still waiting for one cat as the Ebay seller I purchased it from shipped me one instead of two and has since not communicated at all. Hopefully my claim will get resolved quickly so I can get this thing built. From there sliders are in order

Muffler is a Walker pn# 18175
Cat's are Magnaflow 54906
The pipe is a random 2.5" mandrel bent piece I believe from a DSM, I plan on cutting this up.

 

[kbahus]

Cool shot I picked out of a video with the 33's

 

[Coolstream]

Nice ride Kevin!

 

[85badger]

I love the blacked out look! Now paint your wheel weights black!

 

[kbahus]

haha, yeah I need to do that. I used tape weights with the 33's but the 35's needed more weight than tape weights could provide. Thanks for the compliments!

 

[kbahus]

Hopefully I will get some more work done on the truck soon. Work has been taking up most of my time. For now a few more random pics:

 

[kbahus]

This is what I do during the day, build race cars and service European and other fun vehicles at SCR Performance in Loveland, CO.

 

[Trapper50cal]

A: Get some armor on that beautiful rig before you bust it up...

B: Sweet pic on the hairpin, rear driver wheel is off and locked, very nice. (Audi?)

 

[kbahus]

A: Hopefully I will get some armor on there one of these days, I am too poor and have no time at the moment. I want to get the exhaust finished first so the sliders can be built around the high clearance cats.

B: Correct, 1997 Audi A4. Built it a couple years ago as a shop car then converted it for Pikes Peak. Did very well, finished 2nd in Time Attack AWD this year.

 

[julstirn]

Thats sexy! Both the cruiser and the cars.

 

[Trapper50cal]

A: Hopefully I will get some armor on there one of these days, I am too poor and have no time at the moment. I want to get the exhaust finished first so the sliders can be built around the high clearance cats.

B: Correct, 1997 Audi A4. Built it a couple years ago as a shop car then converted it for Pikes Peak. Did very well, finished 2nd in Time Attack AWD this year.

I thought that was Pikes Peak and not Loveland....I'm originally from the Springs...

A quick note, obviously Sliders are very important, but I have found that continuous happiness is also reliant upon Iron Pig Offroad's Skid Plate and Landtank's rear Lower Control Arms...

 

[kbahus]

Being stuck home all day makes me pretty antsy and figure I would get a start on something so here is the start of my rock rail project. Made some cardboard templates today and will start on making the brackets this week. This is a spin off of Landcruiserphil's rock rails.

y

I did a fair amount of research before deciding to go this route. Lurking on the JK forums I discovered that most rock rails attach to the body and/or pinch weld and not the frame, this includes the Mopar Rubicon rockers. These guys seem to bash the heck out of their rigs and I have yet to read a complaint about a rock rail failing. I also looked up the weight of a Rubicon, 4100lbs dry/stock compared to our 4800lbs dry/stock so there is not a huge weight difference between the two rigs. Another unique fact if anyone is interested, the 4-door JK pinch weld is almost exactly the same length as our pinch weld. I actually contemplated buying a set of rails for a JK to use but figure I can just make a set from scratch for less. I also really like Landcruiserphil's rock rails for their simplicity so I crawled under the truck and low and behold, oem mounting points for the running boards were looking right at me. I added a couple mounts in the middle, one I will have to drill and nutsert but that is easy. I plan on using 3/16" steel plate and will bend it as necessary to get it flush. I figure if more strength is needed I will screw the plate through the pinch weld but I am not sure I will have to do that. More to follow!

 

[kbahus]

Learned all about departure angle today. Going up is easy, coming back down is another story. The axle is full droop just hanging there while back of the truck is supported entirely by the tow hooks in the back. Had to drag them quite a distance before it dropped down. Also railed the radius arm mount pretty hard on the initial drop. Now I know why no one runs those MAF drop brackets.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Also railed the radius arm mount pretty hard on the initial drop. Now I know why no one runs those MAF drop brackets.

I do and I run stuff much more extreme than that.

 

[kbahus]

I only contact them when descending ledges, do you run into a similar experience or does the j lift and 37's give that much more clearance?

 

[Walking Eagle]

I only contact them when descending ledges, do you run into a similar experience or does the j lift and 37's give that much more clearance?

I haven't always been on 37's

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/213979-finally-got-hung-up-drop-brakets.html

besides, 37's just mean I"m dropping larger ledges walking one wheel at a time helps weither you drop your brackets or not.

Generally though, the whole fuss over drop brackets is much much tado about nothing. among other things, the fronts of my arms are higher than the other options. no one ever talks about that though. They've just never been a huge drawback for me, and it's not like I'm a mall crawler - but my truck does track straight at 85mph on the hwy - hands off, and no alignment since I've had it. No driveline vibes, no twitchy handling - and I've even spun it 180 in the middle of a road at 50 do to an emergency manuver.