caster plates with Js vibration and shim for hubs

ginericLC · 06-22-05, 10:12 PM

I installed Slee's caster plates and J springs. I have a pretty nasty vibration now. What I'm wondering is if anyone has done the same and not had a vibration? I'm thinking I might need to add a 1-1.5" spacer to compensate for the caster plates. Anybody have any spring spacers they want to get rid of? When I talked to Ben at Slee he said I'd be good with a light rig with Js and the plates. I'm pretty light as in stock other than the Js, L shocks, and caster plates. I still have the Michelins :( and running boards :( I'm really not wanting to add a CV front driveshaft to eliminate the vibration but will if I have too.

Also, anyone know off hand what shims I'd need to run to run Aisan hubs and go 2wd? They go between the hub and the axle c-clip correct? This could buy me some time while I figure out what to do with the spacer for the spring.

Bear80 · 06-22-05, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ginericfj80

Also, anyone know off hand what shims I'd need to run to run Aisan hubs and go 2wd? They go between the hub and the axle c-clip correct? This could buy me some time while I figure out what to do with the spacer for the spring.

Well if you're putting on locking hubs then are you not going to pull the front drive shaft anyway?? That would solve the vibration. You do know that even if you unlock the hubs, EVERYTHING else will still turn. Only '92 and older 80's can be truely converted to part time 4wd. And in your case you'll have to keep the center diff locked. So what are you really saving??

cruiserman · 06-22-05, 11:00 PM

Well, it would buy him some time to figure out the spacer/vibration issue, since he won't have the front driveshaft installed.

T Y L E R · 06-23-05, 01:48 AM

Look at my sig line for what I'm running ...

Drives like a dream ... no vibes at all.

TY

ginericLC · 06-23-05, 07:15 AM

Bear80,

The reason for going 2wd was to get rid of the vibration temporarily. I have the hubs. I have the CDL switch and I know I have to pull the driveshaft. I've been there and done that with my 91. I shouldn't have done this lift so close to vacation. It just is in my 91 I had no issues at all. I leave on Sunday for a 2200 mile pavement trip. I don't want to vibrate that long. Not good for me, the wife, or the rig.

Tyler,

Your answer is not the answer I was looking for. I have the Js in the rear too. However I don't think that is what is causing my vibration. I was hoping somebody would say, me too, and I fixed it by.....

Anyone else???

yellowchaosfj80 · 06-23-05, 07:53 AM

Hay if it helps I'm doing my lift on FRI I have the J's front and rear and only have new casters to put in but I also have 1.5 spaces to put on ...I'll let you know how it goes if that helps....?

landtank · 06-23-05, 08:19 AM

try the u-joints, this wouldn't be the first time that a new operating angle upset the little buggers. Because of the limited movement of the cups they tend to wear a slight dent if you will in that area. Now that you lifted the truck, that same motion is in a slightly different spot because of the angle change and the needle bearings now travel half in a worn area and half in a fresh one. The transition between the two makes for an un happy joint.

wb1948 · 06-23-05, 08:43 AM

You should look other places. I ran J springs + 10 mm packer w/ castor plates and ran well, then I added an arb and m12000 and the correction is still fine.

ginericLC · 06-23-05, 09:16 AM

U joints would be a possibility. I bet they are the originals with 203k on them. Wonder how quick I could get some here? I hate to pay overnight from CruiserDan. Maybe I'll check with the local stealership?

Thanks for the suggestion.

One thing I did notice is both wb1948 and Tyler have newer ones. Are there driveshaft differences between 93/94 and the 95-97? I know my 91 shafts were different.

Duhhh! I could try u joints I have a spare shaft with newer u joints sitting out in the garage.

MADDEN72 · 06-23-05, 11:18 PM

I have the same problem as you have. I am running j's and 1" rubber spacers. The noise is more of mabe a grinding sound kind of that seems to happen more when there is no presure on the front end(letting of the gas or going at a steady rate of speed) But quiet under any esselaration at all. I just put new ujoints in two nights ago and it did nothing to solve the problem. I would be more then happy to buy a cv shaft if I knew that was my problem but I have a hard time shellin out the cash to not see a difference. I have ome spacers I will give you if you want to try them PM me your address and I will send them.

CruisinGA · 06-23-05, 11:34 PM

Do you have swaybar spacers installed?

When I had my J's+1" and caster plates first installed I had no swaybar drops, and my driveshaft hitting the swaybar created a pretty nasty "vibration".

yellowchaosfj80 · 06-23-05, 11:44 PM

Hay Ginericfj80 ... just finished the lift tonight ,and no vibration runs like a dream.... sorry not much help..

Darwood · 06-24-05, 12:24 AM

I would say save the $100 you would spend on new u-joints and save up for a front Double Cardan shaft. There really isn't much you can do other than lower the rig, or get rid of the caster correction. I installed new u-joints in my rear shaft and it did nothing to help my current rear shaft vibration problems.

Going 2wd would be a good temporary solution. Heck just pull the front drive shaft and be done with it for now. No need to install locking hubs (unsless you want to).

Most likely it isn't your rear shaft however it could be. I'm now convinced I was getting rear driveshaft vibrations with just J springs in the rear. If I pulled my Double Cardan front shaft and locked the transfercase the vibes would go away, but I'm pretty sure it was the rear shaft that was vibrating. It would just act up when the transfer case wasn't locked. Probably something to do with the torque.

Right now I'm saving for a rear Double Cardan seeing as I still have some rear vibrations even after adjusting my pinion angle with the rear upper control arms.

Some trucks are just more susceptible to vibrations than others. mine for example is a prime candidate for vibrations for some reason.

Bob_Garrett · 06-24-05, 06:31 AM

Have you measured the angles of the flanges on each end? They should be at the same angle. As I recall, mine had about a 5 degree difference after installing J's with 1" spacers and Christo's front arms. I did try new u-joints first and it did reduce the vibration, but it seemed to get worse again after a while. Installing a double cardan front shaft got rid of the vibration completely.

Bob

alia176 · 06-24-05, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darwood

Right now I'm saving for a rear Double Cardan seeing as I still have some rear vibrations even after adjusting my pinion angle with the rear upper control arms.

Some trucks are just more susceptible to vibrations than others. mine for example is a prime candidate for vibrations for some reason.

Curious, why are you still experiencing vibes even after adjusting the rear pinion angle? Seems to me that your vibes should've gone away once the pinion angle was adjusted. Do you have enough adjustments on the upper arms to make the pinon point at the Tcase flange (after the DC driveshaft is installed)?

Darwood · 06-24-05, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alia176

Curious, why are you still experiencing vibes even after adjusting the rear pinion angle? Seems to me that your vibes should've gone away once the pinion angle was adjusted. Do you have enough adjustments on the upper arms to make the pinon point at the Tcase flange (after the DC driveshaft is installed)?

I think the u joints are at too much of an angle. I believe I measured them to be around 8-10 degrees (that is if I measured correctly). I still need to play with the measurement a bit. I think I need to lower the pinion about a half degree.

I definitely have enough adjustment in the arms to adjust for the DC shaft. Right now I only have about 4 threads showing on the non jam nut side of the adjuster which is about 3/8's of an inch. The threaded adjustment rods are about 5 to 6 inches long which gives an arm adjustablilty of about 10 inches in total. It won't take much to get the output shaft to point at the t-case.

ginericLC · 06-25-05, 07:29 AM

It turns out I had a frozen u joint at the transfer case end. It would move maybe 2 degrees. I guess I didn't flex it enough with the stock suspension? My spare was off a 91 and the U joints are a lot bigger on the 91. So I could transfer them over. So I'll 2wd it to my desination in Oregon Sunday and then hope they have a good Toyota dealer. I'll be there for a week so I should be able to get parts. I don't think Cruiser Dan could ship me parts into a state park. I may as well try the U joints and see what happens. They are only $40 or so a pop. A CV joint is a lot more and where I live in Idaho we don't have high tech driveshaft shops on every corner. A lot of the ones we have won't do Toyota shafts.

Cruiserdrew · 06-25-05, 07:36 AM

That's good news. I'll bet it helps a lot, but you may still experience some buzz on decelleration without the CV shaft. If you do need driveshaft work, we have a good shop here-you can send to me and I'll get it done for you. Our shop did say they almost never have to replace Toyota u-joints. I wonder why yours went bad.

CreeperSleeper · 06-25-05, 02:15 PM

Where in OR are you going? I could direct you to a few places... if you ask nicely, I may even let you use my tools and garage! (J/K- I'll PM you my # and you can call me if you need any help.)