[gbell210]

Curious.. wouldn't it make more sense to unplug the kaymar lights? Espically since the trailer would be obstructing the view of these? Also, since the kaymar has actually connectors that tapped into my stock harness, it would be easier to disconnect them.

Thats just my thinking behind it. I haven't towed anything yet, but I may be towing a uhaul trailer in the next few months to move.

[IdahoDoug]

Watching this with interest now that an ARB's on the horizon and of course I'm a towing machine all summer.....

DougM

[landtank]

My gut feeling on this is that we will need to do something along the lines of what Slee did with his head light upgrade. That is, using the 12v line currently operating the signals to operate a relay that then will supply the higher current needed to operate all those lights in conjunction with a relay like the one I used above. I'm mainly thinking this because I beleive that 12v goes through the light stalk and you won't want to send too much through there and burn that puppy out.

Since my last LC project has come to an end this looks like a good next project for me to get started on. Should have brought my EWD with me on this trip.

[Brentbba]

Originally Posted by gbell210

Curious.. wouldn't it make more sense to unplug the kaymar lights? Espically since the trailer would be obstructing the view of these? Also, since the kaymar has actually connectors that tapped into my stock harness, it would be easier to disconnect them.

Thats just my thinking behind it. I haven't towed anything yet, but I may be towing a uhaul trailer in the next few months to move.

Hmmmm.....hadn't thought about that, but you make a good point. It's been awhile since I hooked up the Kaymar. It just plugs right into the harness. What I don't remember, and I'm thinking it may be true in my case, is that I've got the converter that goes to the trailer on the same harness as the Kaymar taillights. Kaymar leaves open wires to hook up to a converter for this exact purpose. Thus, unplug the overall harness to the Kaymar bumper lights and you unplug the trailer connection as well.

I'll have to take a peek under the truck this weekend and verify this.

Rick and DougM - I'll let you know what I find out for sure. I'll explore both the Kaymar hookup and unpluging the ARB.

[gbell210]

Originally Posted by Brentbba

Hmmmm.....hadn't thought about that, but you make a good point. It's been awhile since I hooked up the Kaymar. It just plugs right into the harness. What I don't remember, and I'm thinking it may be true in my case, is that I've got the converter that goes to the trailer on the same harness as the Kaymar taillights. Kaymar leaves open wires to hook up to a converter for this exact purpose. Thus, unplug the overall harness to the Kaymar bumper lights and you unplug the trailer connection as well.

Ah Yes.. I know the kaymar has extra wires for what I assume to be a trailer connection. So if you used those for the trailer harness, then disregard my idea, unless you want to re-wire it all
The PO on mine, connected the trailer converter behind the taillights inside the USPS under the sub-woofer area.

[Brentbba]

Originally Posted by gbell210

The PO on mine, connected the trailer converter behind the taillights inside the USPS under the sub-woofer area.

Those damn PO's.......

[gbell210]

lol yea.. espically when the kaymar was not even connected when I first got it. I had to untangle their mess and connect the wiring.
See... http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...=kaymar+wiring

[Brentbba]

Excuse my french, but what a freaking mess!!!

Maybe an older Kaymar??? I've only had mine a year or so and it was a simple plug and play to an open connector under the truck. The Kaymar harness also had a five wire harness open that then connected to a trailer converter.

I'll try to take some photos to show you.

[MoCoNative]

Caution old thread revival.

Did any of you guys find more out about this subject. I bring it up because I looked through this thread to figure out how to get the trailer lights to blink at a human rate on my trailer. The difference is I'm dealing with a 96 T100, not an 80. On the T100 the stock unit was a EP35 from what I could tell, so I went and got an EP36. Plugged right in, nothing seemed funny about the wiring. So I turned the key on, checked it, all worked fine. Backed up to my trailer, checked it, seemed to make the lights flash a little slower and brighter, but not overly impressive.

Drove to work the next day and did something I had not tried the night before, and that was turn on the blinkers and hit the brakes at the same time. I get a supersonic blink rate, both directions when applying the brakes. When I release the brake pedal the blink rate goes back to normal.

I'm not sure what this issue is. T100 is pretty similar to an 80 from what I can tell. Typical Toyota in the back, seperate turn signals from brake lights. The brake light curcuit should be seperate from the turn signals. But here is the catch, it has electric trailer brake controller on it, but it looks to be hooked up properly. Also has older converter spliced in in the back.

I got a Hoppy T connect harness deal, just haven't got it in yet. I'm wondering if the old convertor is doing some kind of bleed through or something, that is the only place that the brake and turn curcuits can merge.

Also just thought of something while writing this thread, electric brake controller has a ground wire, may be spliced to same ground as flasher unit, if it grounds, would that be an issue?????

But, stock flasher was fine prior to this. Stock flasher said it was rated for 2 bulbs turn, 4 flash. Stock unit says Toyota, and then Tridon right underneath. My new flasher is the Tridon EP36, seems it should work. It is rated for 3 turn, 6 flash, and works fine until the brake is applied, just strange, any thoughts????

[Brentbba]

You could try a separate ground point, but I don't think that will make a difference. I solved my problem by converting all the lights (rear and running) to LED. Lower draw of the LED's solved my blown fuse issues.

[knorrena]

Yup, I converted all my trailer lights to LED so that I would not go through this problem.

[campoj2]

I have a Kaymar bumper and will have the ARB in 2 months, one day, not to far in the near future I will tow something, I'm sure what, but I will tow something, does/can the stock OEM Toyota flasher handle an ARB (w/turn signals) & Kaymar bumper along with a "normal" trailer - normal being something that you rent from Ryder/uhaul type of company.

[Brentbba]

Originally Posted by campoj2

I have a Kaymar bumper and will have the ARB in 2 months, one day, not to far in the near future I will tow something, I'm sure what, but I will tow something, does/can the stock OEM Toyota flasher handle an ARB (w/turn signals) & Kaymar bumper along with a "normal" trailer - normal being something that you rent from Ryder/uhaul type of company.

Probably not. That's what most of us have had issues with. We've got an ARB in front/Kaymar in rear with lights hooked up in both. Stock w/o a trailer you're just fine. Hook up a trailer with lights and that's when the fuse blows...most of the time. I hooked up and drove the trailer about 250 miles w/o issue one time and have also blown the fuse immediately other times. Go figure. My original solution was to disconnect the ARB lights at the molex connectors before towing. My permanent solution has been LED's on the trailer. I haven't had a problem since.

[MoCoNative]

Well I got the trailer plug harness put in. That was some work, factory plugs were pretty tough to get apart up in there.

Now my blinkers flash overly fast when the truck is solo. They blink normal and fine with a trialer hooked up, until I hit the brakes, then I get a rapid flash again.

I'm thinking of dropping the electronic flasher, and just going with a heavy duty flasher that acts solely on resistance. I will loose the indicator function, but I guess that is life.

From what I can tell the electronic flashers are set for certain loads, no less, no more. Perhaps that is our problem. NAPA lists a heavy duty flasher, the old round style with a conversion wiring adpater or something, I think I will try it, see what it does. Obvioulsy the lugs are different, and unfortunately will not plug right in.

Does anyone know what the upgraded Toyota part was, I'm really kind of stumped on this. What I do know is the flast blink rate is not a very good indicator situation. The trailer blinks too fast to be seen easily as a signal.

[nakman]

After pulling the popup this past weekend, I'm back at this thread. I did the EP36 upgrade that Rick describes in the first few posts, and all has worked well for over 3 years. But now I get the "fast blink" when turning left, and no rear turn signals on the truck, Kaymar, or trailer. turning right is fine, as are brakes. What's odd is it all worked fine on the way out to the run, but didn't work on the way back- I did leave the rear slider open about 1/2" and it rained pretty good, so I'm wondering if water got in there somehow, though nothing in the tail light seemed wet.

But unhooking the trailer didn't fix it, new bulbs didn't fix it. I can't measure any volts in the sockets with the hazards on. Brent I was also blowing 7.5's about 2 years ago but then swapped in 10 amps and all has been fine since. I also mashed the door of the Hoppy connector pretty good on the Rubicon, so I don't have the door or it's little latch now, but the plug seems to stay if I shove it in real good.

Not sure what's next, I may buy another EP36 flasher and just see what happens, or try the stock one again w/o that dongle thing if I can find it.

[MoCoNative]

I'd try another blinker Nakman, maybe it crapped out, otherwise that stumps me also. And no fuse blowing?

I would like to report that I went to a heavier flasher as I mentioned before. It is a Tridon LF-12. It came with a little "kit" in order to hook it up. The kit consisted of a plug to plug into the stock plug with some wires and spade terminals on the end. This flasher is only a two prong flasher, and I had to figure out the orientation of the kit plug to get it to work. It does much better than my previous attempts, but I still do not get very good indication on the trailer. Lights still do not produce a very crisp on and off. I thinking LED bulbs will be next, maybe it will help mask the iffy grounds.

[Brentbba]

Nak - could be that the converter itself is just shot. I've had one OEM and one Hoppy converter go bad on me. Current one has lasted several years - knock on wood. The problems you describe sound to me like it could be the converter itself outside the fact that you're not measuring any voltage at the socket on the truck itself. That part has me sensing electrical problems. I know it's $40ish to replace the Hoppy unit, but chasing electrical gremlins can be a bitch! You might want to try that first.

BTW - It's been awhile since I've blown a signal fuse (again - knock on wood), but are those really 7.5 amp OEM. I could swear they were 10 amp, but the truck is at home, otherwise I'd go look to satisfy my curiosity.

[nakman]

The signal fuse is definitely 7.5, at least per the sticker on the lid to the fuse block. But I figure if it was a serious issue than it would blow a 10 amper as well, and since that hasn't happened it's just the additional bulbs and I've moved on to worry about something else.

My next move is to buy a Grote 44893 flasher at NAPA, that was recommended to me by our resident heavy duty truck parts expert. here's the thread electrical challenge - flasher issues? - Rising Sun Member Forums

I'm going to NAPA at lunch today, see what I can find.

[nakman]

So NAPA's cross reference to a Grote 44893 is EP-35. They researched the difference between EP35 and EP36, and said they're identical except 36 is for "two turn" and 35 is for "three turns," but no one really knew what that meant. Also they said the 35 is rated for 600 life hours, compared to the 36 which is rated at 400 life hours. Both were rated for 6 bulbs.

So I bought a EP-35 and appear to be back in business. I don't completely get it, but I'll take it.

[landtank]

I saw this old thread come back up a few days ago and I got to tell you, this flasher shit kicked my ass. I put quite a bit of time into it and just couldn't get a handle on what was going on. Tractor trailers have an enormous amount of lights on their flashers so this should have been a slam dunk to install but I just gave up. Now that I don't tow with the truck it's been taken of the back burner and thrown in the trash.

Good luck tyo you guys working this out, I'd like to see someone crack this nut.

[Brentbba]

Rick, I know you really did try everything. I guess I've got to consider myself lucky that replacing all the trailer lights with LED's worked for me.

Nak - any update/luck?

[landtank]

Originally Posted by Brentbba

Rick, I know you really did try everything. I guess I've got to consider myself lucky that replacing all the trailer lights with LED's worked for me.

Nak - any update/luck?

the LEDs drop the load across the flasher which will work but the electronic flashers aren't supposed to care what the load is for timing. But for me the electronic flasher over time would speed up and not remain constant. Maybe it needed a diode on the circuit or something, dunno.

[nakman]

I drove about 60 miles this weekend, tried to turn left whenever possible. The darn thing still works, go figure, though I admit the second blink seems to come in a little faster than all subsequent blinks. One of those things my wife won't ever notice, but I do.. so for now I'm rockin the EP-35, and will continue to do so until something stops working again. I'm going to pick up a spare for the toolbox too.

I'd like to go all LED, but thought you had to add some other sort of capacitor/resistor in there somewhere? To "fool" the flasher into thinking it's really a light bulb. I can't remember exactly, but remember trying to get LED's to work in some of the lights up front and they wouldn't. I must have missed every Ohm's law question on the ham test, I suck at electrical..

[Bearcat80]

The trick to running LED's and avoiding adding resistance is to leave the easiest bulb to change as a standard bulb. New fangled truck driver trick. I run LED's just on the trailer for because I haven't gotten around to the truck, probably won't.

[Brentbba]

I didn't have to 'add' anything. Whatever is necessary for the LED's I purchased was built in. Nothing special about the LED's. Purchased at Pep Boys. I have to say that I like the LED's much better than the junk that was there when we purchased the trailer. Much brighter and easy to see on the rear lights - very important!

[nakman]

Here's the info they give you at Superbright Superbrightleds.com - Important Car Bulb Information Brent I'm guessing your trailer LED's were "LED Compatible," as they say.

I was thinking of getting some replacement 1156's for the tail lights, Product Listing - CAR but hesitate since I've already tried some in the ARB and they didn't work. But they sell the resistors, also a replacement flasher it's all towards the end of the first page. Getting one of those flashers then making every bulb a LED is tempting...

[Brentbba]

I didn't just replace bulbs. I replaced the entire assemblies for the rear and side lights on the trailer.

[Lil' runnah]

I've tried to read all the posts in this thread to try and figure out what's going on with mine. My symptom seems a little different.

I also have ARB front and Kaymar rear.

- hazards work all 4 corners

- activate turn signal ...flasher just buzz's, no turn (lights)indications

- fuse is still intact.

- went to dealer, bought a new flasher (relay), ...didn't fix, same symptom

- this happened about 2 weeks ago, I realized I had a bad bulb on front left of ARB. ....removed front right(other side) ....problem solved

- now the "buzz" is back, hazards work all 4 corners, no turn indications again

- disconnected both Kaymar turn signals, no change, flasher still just buzz's when turn signal is activated on the column.

can any of you offer any thoughts as to what might be going on here?

[SeanAndHis80]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Does anyone have a link to a good wire size chart for 12v DC?

-B-

Try this: American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits

[nakman]

Originally Posted by Lil' runnah

I've tried to read all the posts in this thread to try and figure out what's going on with mine. My symptom seems a little different.

I also have ARB front and Kaymar rear.

- hazards work all 4 corners

- activate turn signal ...flasher just buzz's, no turn (lights)indications

- fuse is still intact.

- went to dealer, bought a new flasher (relay), ...didn't fix, same symptom

- this happened about 2 weeks ago, I realized I had a bad bulb on front left of ARB. ....removed front right(other side) ....problem solved

- now the "buzz" is back, hazards work all 4 corners, no turn indications again

- disconnected both Kaymar turn signals, no change, flasher still just buzz's when turn signal is activated on the column.

can any of you offer any thoughts as to what might be going on here?

Double check all your bulbs, particularly the ones in the Kaymar since those accumulate so much dirt- do all new ones to be on the safe side and just rule those out. Then I think you need to ditch the stock flasher, and get a more heavy duty one. Go to Napa or somewhere, grab an EP35, 36, etc. then try each one in the parking lot and see which one makes a difference. When mine were screwy last fall, the hazards also worked, but turning did not.. it's a different relay for those. I am almost positive your solution lies in upgrading your flasher. hth..

edit: Also, did you check that 7.5 amp fuse? In the panel by your left knee- I kept blowing those, so I put a 10 amp in there instead and have had no problems since, probably 3-4 years now. Before I upped it to 10 I was popping that fuse when signaling left, but no more.