Parking/Emergency Brake Adjustment

[NorCalDoug]

Any tips?
Mine's quite loose; i.e. it doesn't hold very well.

I'd like to tighten it up this weekend. I have the FSM, but am looking for tips from those who have done it already...things to watch out for...gotchas, etc.

[Biff]

I'm doing the same thing to my cruiser, my parking brake has gotten weaker every time I use it.

[KliersLC]

IIRC it isn't too difficult. Pull the rear rotors and adjust the shoes out. Hmmm That makes me think....I seem to remember that the shoe setup was a self adjuster, but I could be wrong. If it is, you could try backing up fast and then pulling the ebrake similar to the old american drum brakes. Also, there should be a linkage or cable adjustment somewhere under the rig but I have never taken the time to look for it.
Good luck,
Dan

[RavenTai]

It is not self adjusting,

IIRC you want to remove the cables from the bell cranks, take all the adjustment out of the bell cranks, then adjust the star wheel in the drum, you adjust the star well through a hole on the outboard face of the rotor that has a rubber plug, give a little more room than the FSM calls for, then adjust the bell cranks until the slop is taken up but no more, then install the cable and adjust the parking brake handle to take slop out of the cable and no more, actuate it through several cycles and make sure the pads to not drag and there is minimal slop, repeat as necessary. Defiantly RTFM as I probably forgot something,

[Arleaux]

I just did it, & as far as I can tell RavenTai is dead on.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

Defiantly RTFM as I probably forgot something,

The only issue I would see would be if the emergency brake shoes are completely worn out, you could spend alot of time adjusting and still be nowhere. My advice to anyone using or relying on the emergency brakes is to remove the back tire, use a brake adjuster tool to back the shoes off using the hole Raven is mentioning and remove the rotor so you can see what you have. If there's enough pad, then slap the rotor back on and adjuster per the above and the FSM. Just my .02c.

[reffug]

Originally Posted by Arleaux

I just did it, & as far as I can tell RavenTai is dead on.

Shocker............................


As far as I can tell Raven can quote the FSM as well as my minister can quote the gospels........................


Only the gospels never helped me fix my rig.

[Montana Cruiser]

There is also some good info if you search under "bellcrank" .... I was just checking this out myself.

[Safado]

Another way to do it, since I found the access how to be awkward, is to first remove the drum to check for pad wear. Use the adjusting star to adjust the pads out as far as is possible while still being able to slip the drum back on. If you only slip the drum on 3/4 of the way, you'll notice that you can lay under the truck and still access the adjusting star with ease. Adjust if out until it becomes aparent that they can't be adjusted any further and the fit is snug. Then use a hammer to tap the rotor fully into place. Realize that the pads will be making some contact with the rotors at this point, but after driving it around the block a few times, the pads will have worn sufficiently so that they'll now stop the truck with only a few clicks of the e-brake. Good luck.

[Darwood]

What ACU are we talking aboot?

on topic part:

Now what is a brake adjuster tool, and why do I need it?

[RavenTai]

I think I needed a flat head screwdriver for the star wheel, 10mm (12?) wrench and the same screwdriver for the bell crank, the cables disassemble by hand, but the adjuster at the handle was a pain (tight access), cant remember what I used, crows foot would be nice here. I don’t have any at the house or even in metric.


A drum brake tool is nice for removing and installing the springs but that is not needed to adjust them

Originally Posted by elmariachi

The only issue I would see would be if the emergency brake shoes are completely worn out, you could spend alot of time adjusting and still be nowhere. My advice to anyone using or relying on the emergency brakes is to remove the back tire, use a brake adjuster tool to back the shoes off using the hole Raven is mentioning and remove the rotor so you can see what you have. If there's enough pad, then slap the rotor back on and adjuster per the above and the FSM. Just my .02c.

agreed pull the rotors and have a look around, having them off for the adjustment of the bell crank is helpful so you can see when all the slop is taking out with the rotor off you can watch the gap between the pad and lever arm

Originally Posted by reffug

As far as I can tell Raven can quote the FSM as well as my minister can quote the gospels........................

Gotta read from the good book to keep Dan's voodoo at bay, I must be slacking he got me with the pin through the C-pillar, I must repent with 5 hail-Cruiser's, 4 oil changes and a tune up before a pin goes in the EGR modulator

[SR.GRINGO]

When you add the lift don't you need make a drop block for the e-brake? Norcal did you change anything after you installed the lift?--mine got worse after it was lifted..... I'm pretty sure I read something about this somewhere........

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

... so you can see what you have. If there's enough pad, then slap the rotor back on and adjuster per the above and the FSM.

The e-brake shoes have very little friction surface on them to begin with; especially if you are comparing the e-brake shoes to regular drum brake shoes. Don't be alarmed when you see only 1/16" of pad remaining.

-B-

[KliersLC]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

The e-brake shoes have very little friction surface on them to begin with; especially if you are comparing the e-brake shoes to regular drum brake shoes. Don't be alarmed when you see only 1/16" of pad remaining.

-B-

They don't really see much wear unless you drive around with the ebrake pulled , so as long as you have a bit left, everything should be fine.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

The e-brake shoes have very little friction surface on them to begin with; especially if you are comparing the e-brake shoes to regular drum brake shoes. Don't be alarmed when you see only 1/16" of pad remaining.
-B-

Excellent point Beowulf because in reality, the e-brake shoes should never see much slippage (unless you are doing Dukes of Hazzard 180's in your Cruiser). I can't recall ever seeing a set of pads worn to the point of needing replacement, even on a 150K mile truck.

[Safado]

Dan once told me he had never sold a set.

[alia176]

My only concern is that if you adjust the Ebrake to be real nice and tight, then what happens during extreme droops? Are you simply stretching the Ebrake cables? Perhaps having a lit bit of slack is good?

[RavenTai]

Through its normal range of motion the position of the axle has no effect on the parking brake. If you run out of length in the cable and it pulls tight it may have an effect probably break something also. I have not heard of this happening with common lifts. Somebody with the 6"+ lifts would be able to give a better answer.

[JerseyCruiser]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

It is not self adjusting,

IIRC you want to remove the cables from the bell cranks, take all the adjustment out of the bell cranks, then adjust the star wheel in the drum, you adjust the star well through a hole on the outboard face of the rotor that has a rubber plug, give a little more room than the FSM calls for, then adjust the bell cranks until the slop is taken up but no more, then install the cable and adjust the parking brake handle to take slop out of the cable and no more, actuate it through several cycles and make sure the pads to not drag and there is minimal slop, repeat as necessary. Defiantly RTFM as I probably forgot something,

I just completed a rear OEM elocker retrofit and why I was in there I serviced everything and used your info for the e-brake adjustment. I took all of the play out of the bell cranks (they moved properly not sized), adjusted the shoes even let them drag a bit, and the handle seems to be bottomed out as far as taking up the slop in the cable. I can hold the truck on a hill which I could not do at all before but I have to pull the S**T out of the handle to an almost vertical position to hold it. I don't see any other adjustment points on the cable, has the cable just stretched over the years and can it be shortened?

Thanx in advance
George

[FirstToy]

basically repeating but..
Doug,
don't mess with anything inside the truck. adjust from the rear brakes-
-take off the wheels,
- line up the hole at the bottom (that hole sometimes has a rubber plug in it-one fell out in mine), there is a toothed cog there
- you take a flathead screwdriver and flip the teeth up (turning the starwheel)
- do it all the way tight and then back it off a few clicks
- you can pull the e brake handle to see how tight it is.

[RavenTai]

I am not sure why it is not adjusting


I don't think you are going to be able to shorten the cable with normal garage type tools, you would need new cable ends and a good swager to shorten it,

[JerseyCruiser]

Originally Posted by RavenTai

I am not sure why it is not adjusting


I don't think you are going to be able to shorten the cable with normal garage type tools, you would need new cable ends and a good swager to shorten it,

Did I miss anything? I looked how the cable is put together and you are right it will have to be crimped at the ends. I had a FJ62 with the same trouble but I just lived with it I would like it to be perfect with this rig.

[RavenTai]

Originally Posted by JerseyCruiser

Did I miss anything? I looked how the cable is put together and you are right it will have to be crimped at the ends. I had a FJ62 with the same trouble but I just lived with it I would like it to be perfect with this rig.

Without the truck in front of me it is hard to say,


In post 4 I said to leave a little more in the star adjustment, considering that "a little more" is wide open to interpretation, and considering you are out of cable adjustment maybe this should be revisited, maybe go back through everything and see if it clears up on its own, here is a more complete write up.


1. Transmission in park, lock the center diff (CDL switch or T-case in low),
2. Block front tires
3. Jack the rear axle put it on stands
4. Remove the wheels, calipers and rotors, inspect everything
5. Reinstall the rotors and at least 2 lug nuts on the rotor to make sure it is seated and running true
6. Enjoy a cold frosty beverage.
7. Remove the cable ends off the bell cranks by removing the "R" clips and then clevis pins,
8. take the bell cranks to the minimum by loosening the jam nut and then back the rubber pads all the way out and bring the bell cranks all the way down to the backing plate so they will not interfere with the next step,
9. Adjust the star until the shoes just start to touch the rotor but produce no noticeable drag, check for contact by rotating the rotor and listening, when you first get contact actuate the bell crank by hand, this should square up the pads and allow them to clear again so you can continue adjusting tighter.
10. Repeat step 9 until there is no change in contact after actuating the bell crank,

What we are looking for here is the shoes to consistently just barely touch the rotor with very little travel to make full contact, do not worry about major slack in bell cranks for now, fixed in next step,

11. Remove the rotor, look at the bar just above center with a flattened coil spring at one end, actuate the bell crank by hand slowly until it just about to lift the pad, notice a small gap from that bar to the shoe disappears as you actuate the bell crank, adjust the rubber stops on the bell cranks until that gap is almost but not completely gone (as in a few thousands) make sure the pads are still seated against the post at the top and the adjuster (with star) at the bottom, lock the jam nuts on the bell crank stops,

What we are looking for motion of the bell crank to quickly turn into motion of the shoes wit no slack,

12. Install and adjust the cable at the handle so that it is right at the point of about to lift the rubber stops but is not,

13. with the rotors in place pull the handle tight a few times to settle it out and check all your gaps again,

A. Shoes very close but not dragging the rotors, slight touching ok (adjusted at star)
B. Spring end of the bar very close but not touching the shoe, (adjusted at bell crank stops)
C. Cable taught but not lifting either of the ball crank stops off the backing plate (adjusted at handle)


If you still do not have a good parking brake, maybe your shoes are worn too low or the cable is stretched,

Examine both and replace one or the other,


Wile you are there a lot of northern salt owners report locked up bell cranks, might as well grease them (see other threads) to prevent future corrosion. you can also put a very small ammount on the 6 points where the shoes ride on the backing plate and the adjuster,

[JerseyCruiser]

Raven,

Thanks for the detailed adjusting instructions. Unfortunately I haven't had time to try anything yet. First thing the PO adjusted the cable at the handle and it looks like its maxed out with the nut as far to the bottom as possible with all of the threads showing on top. I did not touch it, where should this adjustment be before I start adjusting the bell cranks and shoes? My bell cranks were on there way to be totally fused together but I got everything freed and generously packed the crank assembly and the boot with white grease. The shoes still have a lot of meat on them.

Thanks
George

[RavenTai]

Originally Posted by JerseyCruiser

where should this adjustment be before I start adjusting the bell cranks and shoes?

does not matter, the cable is removed from the bell cranks during other adjustments, you then adjust it last when you hook the cable back up.

[JerseyCruiser]

Raven,



Thanks for the complete write up. I'm going to try your adjustment methods this weekend if its not raining. I passed the stick NJ motor vehicle inspection today and they didn't squawk about the e-brake!



Thanx
George