[cartercd]

I just installed an auxiliary fuse block and thought I would share my mounting location. The fuse block is inside the passenger (U.S.) footwell, which makes it easy to route the wires along the firewall and then into the engine bay, dash, or center console. There are existing studs protruding from the inner fender which allows mounting of the fuse block and ground wire without any drilling. The plastic kick panel can be easily removed without tools if you need to access the fuses.

I used a Painless Cirkit Boss, which has 3 hot leads and 4 ignition leads - each witha a 20 amp fuse. The unit is powered directly from the battery using a 10 gage wire and circuit breaker. The relay that controls the ignition-hot circuits is triggered by a wire that I spliced into the cigarette lighter (unlike most vehicles, the 80 series cigarette lighter is only powered when the ignition is on).

Now I have an excuse to buy lots of electrical accessories

An alternate location for an auxiliary fuse block is under the passenger seat, as described in the Tech section at Sleeoffroad.com

[NorCalDoug]

Nice set up!
Thanks for the post. I've been behind that panel a few times when I had to route power to the rear cargo area, but never though to put a fuse block there. Thanks for the hint.

[Cruiserdrew]

Careful here Doug. When you start wiring up your Hellroaring, let's talk. Unless the fuse panel feed is fused itself at the battery, you have at least 1 long unfused wire from the battery to the input side of the fuse panel. That is dangerous. What you want is the fuse panel close to the battery or a heavy duty fuse at the battery feeding the aux fuse panel. Long unfused runs of wire crossing the firewall are a set-up for an electrical fire.

edit: It looks like the original poster has a circuit breaker, likely close to the battery. I missed that the first time through. That set-up would be clean and work great.

[Junk]

Nice writeup and pic. Not sure I would mount something that low though. Just based on my experience of getting too much water in the truck (not exactly planned) and the location may be one that sees some extra H20 from water possibly draining.

Of course hopefully neither would ever be an issue, but it helps move my preference for keeping this stuff higher up

[cartercd]

I did mount a circuit breaker (included with the fuse block) near the battery. As far as mounting height is concerned, I never intend to be anywhere near water that deep! If the fuse block got wet I think that would be the least of my worries, becasue the opposite side footwell is packed with OEM electronics at a similar mounting height. Picture below was shamelessly snagged from the 7 pin mod write-up on Slee's website.

[Junk]

Originally Posted by cartercd

becasue the opposite side footwell is packed with OEM electronics at a similar mounting height.

Oh, I know.

Here's a pic of one of the relays I had to pull out.


here's an upside down view {don't ask why it's upside down } of the ds kick panel { by the way, this wiring is just further evidence of what can happen if you deal with a certain shop in VA } ... - I had just pulled about 15' worth of rats nest out from frickin wire and the sad part is it wasn't even connected to anything. heck, not even stripped on either end - just a piece of wire.

[Trunk Monkey]

Originally Posted by Junk

with a certain shop in VA

This is NOT intended as vendor bashing, but are we talking about 4x4connection? If so, I share your pain. They built my truck while it was in the hands of the PO. I'm just about to embark on rewiring it and it's looking like it will mostly entail taking out everything they did and starting over.

Nice location on the fuse block. That's one of the rewire projects. Any reason there rather than under the pass. seat?

[Junk]

Rather intuitive guess FZJFIllmore.

Their work is right on par with work done by the owner of Ironfig. Again, not to bash vendors, but just answering your question.

[NorCalDoug]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Careful here Doug. When you start wiring up your Hellroaring, let's talk. Unless the fuse panel feed is fused itself at the battery, you have at least 1 long unfused wire from the battery to the input side of the fuse panel. That is dangerous. What you want is the fuse panel close to the battery or a heavy duty fuse at the battery feeding the aux fuse panel. Long unfused runs of wire crossing the firewall are a set-up for an electrical fire.

edit: It looks like the original poster has a circuit breaker, likely close to the battery. I missed that the first time through. That set-up would be clean and work great.

My current power feed to the cargo area uses a long wire from the battery to the rear. It's fused right by the battery. No worries. I'd just like to add a block somewhere handy for more stuff -- I really don't care if it's inside or under the hood.

And yes, when I hook up the Hellroaring set up, I'd like both you and Derek there Last thing I need to FUBAR my electricals.

[97 FZJ80]

I used a OEM Toyota connector at the battery. The connector is a part of the towing package for the Tundra, and has a replacable 30 amp fuse.

[Beowulf]

Fixed it for ya



-B-

[Brentbba]

cartercd,

Can't PM you based on your settings. Does the PS kickpanel mount back flush after this install? Looks like the basic block and not the weather resistant one??

[dclee]

Originally Posted by NorCalDoug

And yes, when I hook up the Hellroaring set up, I'd like both you and Derek there Last thing I need to FUBAR my electricals.

Let me know when!

[Montana Cruiser]

Originally Posted by 97 FZJ80

I used a OEM Toyota connector at the battery. The connector is a part of the towing package for the Tundra, and has a replacable 30 amp fuse.

Do you happen to have a pic and part #?

[97 FZJ80]

Originally Posted by Montana Cruiser

Do you happen to have a pic and part #?

The fuse is available in larger sizes from regular autoparts place and the output wire can be easily upgraded to take a larger gauge wire.

[cartercd]

The kick panel does mount flush over the fuse block. There would probably be room for the weatherproof option. Pics and part numbers for various fuse blocks are availble on the website below. There are 3 fuse and 7 fuse versions of the weatherprood fuse block.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...-fuseblock.htm

I have changed my setting to allow e-mails and PMs. Thanks for letting me know.

[Brentbba]

Carter - thanks - could tell from your pic that you installed the regular 7 fuse block and not the weather resistant. Just placed my order. Another weekend project on the way!

[Montana Cruiser]

Originally Posted by 97 FZJ80

The fuse is available in larger sizes from regular autoparts place and the output wire can be easily upgraded to take a larger gauge wire.

Thanks! May have to add this to my C-Dan list

[Darwood]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Careful here Doug. When you start wiring up your Hellroaring, let's talk. Unless the fuse panel feed is fused itself at the battery, you have at least 1 long unfused wire from the battery to the input side of the fuse panel. That is dangerous. What you want is the fuse panel close to the battery or a heavy duty fuse at the battery feeding the aux fuse panel. Long unfused runs of wire crossing the firewall are a set-up for an electrical fire.

So what you are saying is I need to rewire my CB?

Also what hole is there on the passenger side of the firewall that is good for running wires through?

[NorCalDoug]

Originally Posted by Darwood

So what you are saying is I need to rewire my CB?

Also what hole is there on the passenger side of the firewall that is good for running wires through?

I stand corrected -- no fuse on the long power lead for the rear cargo area. I'll need to add an in-line fuse to that bad boy.

Derek - you'll find a black rubber plug with some nipples sticking out on the PS firewall. You'll likely have a wire or two running through there already. Cut off one of the nipples and route through there.