[cruiserdan]

I have supplied several power steering pumps to board members over the last few years but I do not recall any of them detailing the actual replacement.

Mine has been seeping out the back cover for some time now and I decided that I wanted to replace it in preparation for our annual trip to Cruise Moab.

I respectfully submit my observations regarding this job:

Preparation:
Have on hand a new pump, body o-ring, high pressure gaskets and a quart of PS fluid.
In addition, a well-stocked tool box with metric tools, torque wrenches and a gear puller is a must.

I started by removing the high-pressure line banjo-bolt. This requires a 22mm socket, a wobbly and enough extensions to get your ratchet/breaker bar hooked up so that you clear the battery box.
In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box. I selected a 13/16 open-end wrench and fitted it to the high pressure port so that I could hold it in place as I broke the banjo-bolt loose. After I removed the banjo-bolt I removed the return hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump outlet. I used Vicegrips to compress the clamps that retain the hose.
The next step involves removing the nuts (2) that retain the pump. I used a 14mm socket and a long breaker-bar to break the nuts loose. I got the lower one from under the vehicle and the upper one from the engine compartment. I then removed the nuts.

The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut. I then used a two jaw puller to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I ended up using my impact wrench to rattle the puller enough to pop the gear off.
After the gear was removed I transfered the gear and key to the new pump. I used my impact wrench to install the nut on the shaft (torque spec 54lbft). I then installed a new o-ring to the pump body and re-installed the pump from under the vehicle.

The pump attaching nuts are torqued to 27lbft. At this point I reinstalled the return hose from the reservoir to the pump and I added some fluid until it started to come out of the high-pressure port and the hose. At that point I reinstalled the highpressure line with a new gasket.
I then torqued the banjo bolt to 54lbft and added enough fluid to get close to the line.
Next step is to start the engine and check for leaks. Turn the wheel side-to-side several times to bleed air out and heat the system. Add fluid to the correct level and congratulate yourself on a job well done.......


D-

EDIT NOTE:

The 17mm nut retaining the pump gear requires a 12 point socket.

I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.

[concretejungle]

Nice write-up dan, appreciate it. ...............Right-click, bookmark.......

[cc93cruiser]

Hey Dan, I bet you it was fun getting all that air out of power steering system, huh? . My dad and I just replaced the power steering pump and the whole power steering gear box unit. Something I learned today, don't be cheap and spend the $35.00 for the pittman arm removal tool, cuz that bi@th is not coming out for nothing-don't waste your time and effort!

[Riley]

Another 60 posts like that Dan and nobody is going to need the FSM. Better watch it or the dogs will be on rations with the loss of FSM sales.

Excellent write up, thanks. I'm hoping I don't need to refer to this write up for awhile.

Sounds like it would be a difficult job without the impact wrench.

[medtro]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

The pump comes out from under the vehicle. Once is has beeen removed it is necessary to remove the gear from the pump shaft. I used a 17mm socket and an impact wrench to remove the nut.

This is a 12 points nut on my pump, not sure if they are all like that. Bad news if you don't have a 17 mm 12 points socket.

[Romer]

Nice write-up Dan!

Junk - time to update the FAQ again!

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by medtro

This is a 12 points nut on my pump, not sure if they are all like that. Bad news if you don't have a 17 mm 12 points socket.

Agreed, I did not mention that. The nut holding the gear is indeed 12 point.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by cc93cruiser

Hey Dan, I bet you it was fun getting all that air out of power steering system, huh? .

Actually not bad at all. I think the key is adding fluid before the high pressure line is reinstalled on the pump. It is a bit messy but is gets the pump primed and reduces the ammount of trapped air dramaticly.

[Lars]

Do you have more pumps in stock? I'll be feeding the dogs with this one soon.

Thanks for the writeup.

[cruiserdan]

I do keep them in stock, as well as the o-ring and pressure gaskets.

[turbocruiser]

Hi Dan, awesome, thanks for this, I recently noticed the back of my pump leaking as well. Would you mind sharing how much the replacement parts are more or less? Also is the two jaw puller a Toyota SST or just a generic one? Thanks man, I think this is definitely worthwhile FAQ material.

[cruiserdan]

A new pump, o-ring and high-pressure gasket is about 237 bucks, current board member costs(4-05).

I used a craftsman two jaw puller. The FSM actually shows using a bench press but I don't have one at home.....

D-

[Beowulf]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

In my case the high pressure port broke loose from the pump body before the banjo bolt let go and as a result I had to head back to the tool box.

Nice write up Dan.

Do you think an impact would have prevented breaking the high pressure port? I know access would be limited but maybe with David's little 3/8" titanium IR-2115? I'm guessing you would have preferred to replace the gasket and O-ring and spend the extra $200 on the IR-2115 or

-B-

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by Beowulf

Nice write up Dan.

Do you think an impact would have prevented breaking the high pressure port? I know access would be limited but maybe with David's little 3/8" titanium IR-2115? I'm guessing you would have preferred to replace the gasket and O-ring and spend the extra $200 on the IR-2115 or

-B-

I don't know how it would have reacted to an impact. The port did not "break", it broke loose and started to unscrew. I think that if you had the open end wrench on the port the impact would have done the same job, without the bruise I got when it popped...

I do not like using an impact on a hollow bolt such as this one though.


D-

[Rookie2]

Only question I have is... do you provide the replacement procedure before or after doing the Voodoo . Me better go take a look see.

[cruiserdan]

Before, of course..


It is more effective if I have a bad pump on the bench to jab the needles into.

[medtro]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

Before, of course..


It is more effective if I have a bad pump on the bench to jab the needles into.

I was going to buy your old pump, it doesn't sound like you want to sell it anytime soon

[IdahoDoug]

I've got garlic cloves, silver bullets, and kryptonite hanging from the rearview mirrors, and mystical anti-voodoo drawings in charcoal around both trucks to keep this "symptom" at bay. Hmm, maybe I should add a lead shield around the engine compartment....


DougM

[mason]

Trying to stop a high pressure line leak at the pump, I took the banjo bolt off, but the high pressure port also broke loose first. I cleaned it and replaced it into the pump without knowing what torque spec. Replaced the line and banjo bolt, and had no leak--until I turned off the motor a while later. High pressure port leaking again, although not as bad. What is the torque spec on the port?

[94landcruiser]

Great write up Dan, what's the current cost of the pump & high pressure hose?

[IdahoDoug]

Mason - new gasket on the high pressure port? If not, that may be the issue.

DougM

[Cruiserdrew]

I recently helped change one of these on a '96. I noticed that Toyota has upgraded the sealing washer at the high pressure port. The old style used copper washers, the new style uses an aluminum one piece double washer that makes it impossible to put on the wrong way. Another nice silent upgrade by Mr. Toy.

A small 3 jaw puller works better than a two jaw puller. That's the only change I would offer to Dan's original write up on the topic.

[deputy630]

Sorry fellas but i need the mud gods to look down on me and help!!!

How does one get all the air out of the lines. Mine kept overflowing the res and pouring down the engine. DO I just let it overflow and add??? It also looks like there is a tone of tiny air bubbles in the fluid... Also do you bleed this with the cap on the res???/ Please help

[super90]

To bleed, I put the front end on jackstands, I filled to the cold level line, then start the truck, and slowly turned steering wheel from lock to lock, holding at full lock for a couple of seconds, then turn to the other side. Repeat back and forth. Stop truck. Check fluid level. Top off. Start truck, run steering wheel from lock to lock again. Recheck. Etc. I then lowered the truck and checked it all again.

This is basically what the FSM says to do, but they are not specific about the truck being on stands. I figured it best not to put any load on the system until I knew it was well bled.

I did prime the pump before attaching the hoses as Dan mentioned.

YMMV


R.

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by cruiserdan

I held the gear with a gloved hand (very heavy leather) when I rattled the nut off and on. It is possible to put the gear in a soft-jawed vice and use a breaker bar but I prefer not to subject the teeth to that stress. The impact makes quick work of the nut. It would be impossible to hold the gear by hand and remove the nut with a hand wrench.

I had issues getting the nut off as I didn't have an impact wrench. What I did is place 2 strips of 2x1 wood in my vice jaws between them and the gear. Clamp down nice and tight and the gear bites into the wood and stays pretty well, allowing you to use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact wrench.

-Phil

[AppleTech]

Originally Posted by super90

To bleed, I put the front end on jackstands, I filled to the cold level line, then start the truck, and slowly turned steering wheel from lock to lock, holding at full lock for a couple of seconds, then turn to the other side. Repeat back and forth. Stop truck. Check fluid level. Top off. Start truck, run steering wheel from lock to lock again. Recheck. Etc. I then lowered the truck and checked it all again.

This is basically what the FSM says to do, but they are not specific about the truck being on stands. I figured it best not to put any load on the system until I knew it was well bled.

I did prime the pump before attaching the hoses as Dan mentioned.

YMMV


R.

I tried this at first and was never able to get my system free of air. Here is what I did to clear up my groaning issues:

to bleed, do this: fill the system to proper capacity, jack up the front end, slowly turn wheel from lock to lock about 10 times (engine off). Watch the fluid level to make sure you don't suck in more air. Put the lid back on lightly and let it sit for an hour or so. Repeat this process like 3 times. Have a friend watch and once you get to the point where there are no air bubbles coming up in the reservoir and the fluid level remains constant, you can be pretty sure you've bled it properly. It should be OK to drop it and start the engine now. Turn the wheel lock to lock a couple times and listen for moaning.

X2 on priming the pump and lines - this helps dramatically.

-Phil

[rhyary]

Can someone confirm applicability of this write-up to a 1996 LX450?

[timbercruiser]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Can someone confirm applicability of this write-up to a 1996 LX450?

*Should* be exactly the same.

[cruiserdan]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Can someone confirm applicability of this write-up to a 1996 LX450?

93-97 80 Series and 96-97 LX450.

Same procedure.

[TLCgrappler]

I just did this recently. I had the same issue as Dan, with the port coming loose before the fitting. After that, I wasn't able to get a wrench on to hold it while I worked at the fitting. My solution to that was to simply remove the whole shebang....high pressure hose and all, and then get the hose off the pump. This was possible because I had the flare wrenches to remove the hose fittings from the steering box.

After I got the whole thing out where i could work on it, removing the hose fitting from the pump was easy.

Removing the gear seemed a little dicey. I have a three-pronged gear puller, but have never used it before. Having cranked away on the gear puller with no apparent movement, all of the sudden the gear popped loose with a "bang". Im not sure that is the way its supposed to happen, but it seemed undamaged, and I got it back onto the new pump with no problem. I didn't have a vise handy, but had some super heavy C clamps and some extra 2x 4 s that worked OK as a substitute. Not great, just OK.

I followed the FSM bleeding procedure which basically is to put the axle up on stands and crank the steering wheel side to side repeatedely...say at least three times, and the more the better. Then you start it and crank the wheel to the end of the travel and hold it there for a while and then do the other side and check for bubbles in the reservoir. If you see them, you repeat the bleed procedure, and if they're still there, you start looking for leaks.

I think it is well worth it to have the flare wrench on hand for the hose fittings. I certainly needed it. Its a 17MM. I had considered rebuilding my pump, but after looking at how apparently complex the pump is, and the various vanes that are supposed to be measured for tolerances, I chickened out and just bought a new pump from Dan, so now I have an extra one available.